Rugged Obsidian needs cleaned, won't come apart. Solution?

hollowoutadime

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  • Feb 27, 2014
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    Both my 9 and .45 cans.

    I believe the housing is aluminum and it won't come apart (won't unscrew). I've tried getting Kroil to creep into the threads, no luck. I have an ultrasonic that works wonders, but what solution will not harm the finish?

    I use peroxide and vinegar on my sparrow .22 internals, but that doesn't play well with nice finishes.

    The endcaps come off and the first baffles come out, (they're modular in design) - that's it. Two guys with rubber gloves couldn't unscrew this.
    Maybe kerosene in the ultrasonic to get it to creep into the threads?

    Next time I won't wait so many rounds.
     
    +1 on the Moly grease. I'm going to tap it with a mallet first.
    Kind of surprised they seized up this early on centerfire ammo, 22's are filthy. Then again, I put in a home range and shoot a lot.

    Thanks guys!
     
    It's apart. A little heat from propane on the threads, and two whacks with a rubber mallet. Unscrewed nicely. Innards cleaned up nicely in the ultrasonic with peroxide/vinegar.

    Thanks All
     
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    It's apart. A little heat from propane on the threads, and two whacks with a rubber mallet. Unscrewed nicely. Innards cleaned up nicely in the ultrasonic with peroxide/vinegar.

    Thanks All
    I sincerely hope you didn’t get poisoned by the lead acetate you created with that mixture, nicknamed “The Dip.”

    The mixture will go right through your skin and, especially if boiled, it could potentially go airborne and into your lungs (and then blood). Not sure at what temp the stuff goes airborne, but I wouldn’t want to find out.

    And pouring that mix down the drain is a huge no-no. It’s not like shooting bullets and obviously leaving the lead bullet in the wild (most of us, including me, do that)…lead acetate is much more mobile.
     
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