Re: S&B or Premier Reticle? Higher Mag or Lower Mag?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Aries64</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Moon-raker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I bought a S&B 5-25X56 with Gen II reticle and I'm happy with what it looks like. I think I'd have preferred the Gen II XR, but that one is pretty tough to locate. </div></div>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Koshy</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> ...Moon-raker did you mean the P4F? Didn't think S&B had the GEN II XR...
Thanks,
- Koshy
</div></div>
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Koshy</span></span>,
Premier Reticles used to provide technical services such as adjustment conversions (MOA-to-CM and vice-versa, Elevation and Windage rotation direction conversion), and reticle retrofitting/replacement. Some of the reticles retrofitted were the
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Gen 2 XL</span></span> and
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Gen 2 XR</span></span>, both of which are patented Premier Reticles designs. As the designs are currently patent-protected and Premier no longer retrofits S & B scopes, S & Bs' equipped with PR reticles have become somewhat hard-to-find.
There are also a number of "100% German" PMII Gen 2 XRs' (scopes with <span style="font-style: italic">factory-installed Gen 2 XR reticles</span>). I own two PMII 5-25X Gen 2 XRs, each of which I paid very dearly for. I sent my first to S & B Germany to have the knobs converted to CCW (Counterclockwise) rotation, and I will soon be sending my recently purchased second scope to S & B to have the knobs converted to CCW as well. I have been told by an authorized S & B dealer and a S & B USA representative that all <span style="font-style: italic">"German Gen 2 XRs' are CW"</span>, which is the default for European scopes anyway.
I don't know the numbers, but I'm sure that the "100% German/German" Gen 2 XR scopes are more rare than the scopes retrofitted by Premier. "German" Gen 2 XR CCW scopes are very rare (as mentioned S & Bs' are CW by default). If you see one and the owner knows what it is, if he/she is willing to sell it I'm sure that they will ask a very pretty penny for it.
S & B USA will allegedly get their U.S.-based Technical Services up and running in Q1 2010. I (and I'm sure all U.S. owners of S & B scopes) would love to see that happen, but at the same time I don't want them to rush the technical training.
I hope that having service work done Stateside will lower the cost of the CCW conversion - although I'm not holding my breath. Last year I was quoted $500.00 U.S. for the CCW conversion.
Keith </div></div>
Why the CCW? To be different? Are you left handed so it's easier? There has got to be a reason you would drop $500 for changing the turret to CCW!
Thanks,
- Koshy
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Aries64</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Koshy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Two questions, if you had a choice between an S&B or a PR of relatively the same magnification which would you chose and why? Any reasoning is acceptable so long as you give a reason!</div></div>
The answer to this first question is largely subjective, and is typically asked on a weekly basis here. Your optics decision should be driven by what you want a scope to allow you to do - not by what other people want, "need", or say is "cool". I think you know this. That said, its' important to do your own research, and part of that research is asking questions like you are. I tell myself that everytime someone who has seen my post with a photo of my Premier 5-25X (27 MIL DT) and PMII 5-25X (26 MIL DT) side-by-side PMs me or directs the <span style="font-style: italic">"Whats' better, Premier or S & B"</span> question to me in a thread.
And my answer is always the same - it isn't a clear-cut decision, as each has it's own strengths and weaknesses which will have varying importance to you, if at all. While I did like my Premier 5-25X 27 MIL DT Gen 2 XR, ultimately I decided to sell it and - at substantial additional cost ($3,050.00 total U.S.), buy a second "100 percent German" 5-25X PMII DT LP CM CW Gen 2 XR.
There was nothing "wrong" with my Premier 5-25X - it was (and is) a great scope. The image quality was outstanding, the build-quality appeared excellent, and the Premier 5-25X (as well as the Premier 3-15X) possesses a feature set that - for the most part, is superior to the PMII line. <span style="font-weight: bold">All at a much lower cost than the PMII 5-25X</span>. So why did I sell my Premier 5-25X? <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Because the S & B suits my needs better. Period</span></span>.
I had a chance to use and compare my Premier 5-25X 27 MIL DT Gen 2 XR and to a Premier 3-15X 27 MIL DT Gen 2 XR, as well as alongside my PMII 5-25X Gen 2 XR CCW. I have also shot rifles with PMII 4-16X 50s' equipped with the P3 (Standard Mildot), Gen 2 XR, P4, and P4F reticles (but on separate occasions so no side-by-side comparison could be made).
I have also owned and used a really great USO, and I can honestly say I like my S & B the best overall, with close seconds to the Premier. The S & B has some advantages over the Premier, and vice-versa but they are very close. So close that the Premier is probably the better choice unless money doesn't matter to you. The Premier is definitely a better value.
S & B and Premier (when Premier still worked on S & B scopes) used to charge $175.00 for a CCW conversion, $250.00 for a Gen 2 XR reticle conversion, and $350.00 for an illuminated Gen 2 XR reticle conversion. A few months ago S & B quoted me $500.00 for the CCW conversion. Thats' insane, especially when you can buy a PH 5-25X Gen 2 XR for much less BNIB from Liberty Optics.
You may or may not know this, but S & B and Premier are no longer working together - in fact last i heard there is pending litigation between the two companies. As such, Premier is no longer installing their Gen 2 and Gen 2 XR reticles into S & B scopes. This is the primary reason why PMIIs' with the Gen 2 XR are becoming harder-to-find/more expensive - the "German Gen 2 XR" scopes even more so.
So, here are some reasons why I prefer the S & B over the Premier. And of course, some or all of these reasons may be moot to you for one reason or another. Please note that these are my observations in my scopes, and the same may or may not hold true for other samples of the respective scopes.
For more insight read my reply to Goldie in his
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Premier or S & B</span></span> thread from about 4 months ago. My post in that thread has direct feature comparisons in sort of a bullet point format. Try to disregard the pissing match between <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Turk</span></span>, <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Gen 2 Mildot</span></span>, and <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">HuDisCo</span></span>.
The clicks on the S & B are sharper, more precise, and more definite. I understand that the upgraded "clickers" that Premier is sending out (and which I received but but did not install before I sold my Premier) transform the
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Premier's mushy clicks</span></span> (compared to S & B). From what some people who have the upgraded clickers have said, the difference is like night & day. Some went so far as to say that their clicks are now better than S & B clicks, but you can also see that at least half of the people who have the upgraded "clickers" have stated that while the clicks are much better than before, they still aren't S & B clicks. To me that means that the clicks aren't as sharp, crisp, or as definite as S & B's. And spinning the turrets a bit of Premiers' with the upgraded clickers at the range has IMO confimed this for me.
However, even if I had installed the new clickers and the clicks had been as good as or "better" than on my S & B there are other things that are swaying me - the Premier's parallax knob and the differences in appearance of the Gen 2 XR reticles in the S & B and Premier 5-25Xs'.
Before I go into my hatred of Premier's parallax knob I need to set the groundwork so you understand my perspective and why I feel the way I do. You may already know this, but when focusing you shouldn't look through the scope for more than a couple of seconds at a time while adjusting the parallax because your eye will automatically begin to compensate to bring the image into focus. This is why people who look through the scope for longer than 3 seconds at a time without looking away while adjusting the parallax setting all in one long turn sometimes get eyestrain. Same thing happens when someone is setting up the reticle/ocular focus.
Below is the correct procedure for Diopter (Ocular/Eyepiece) adjustment for both fixed and variable power scopes. The procedure is the same regardless of scope manufacturer, or whether the objective/parallax focus is on the objective ring or is a side focus type.
<span style="font-weight: bold">NOTE:</span> If the scope is a fixed power unit skip steps 1 and 2 as they do not apply.
(1) Turn the magnification ring to maximum (highest power).
(2) Turn the Parallax focus to "Infinity" (the symbol for Infinity looks like a figure eight). <span style="font-weight: bold">NOTE:</span> Most non-side focus scopes use a ring on the objective bell to adjust parallax, and the distances are usually numbered. Side focus parallax adjustment knobs may or may not have distances marked.
(3) Turn the ocular bell/eyepiece all the way in.
(4) Aim the scope at a cloudless section of the sky (you don't want anything except sky in the view, or else your eye will naturally attempt to focus on the object in the view beyond the reticle.
(5) Look at something nearby, but not too close, then look through the scope at the reticle. If the reticle is out-of-focus turn it a bit to begin to focusing the reticle, but look away from the scope. Never look at the reticle for more than a couple of seconds when adjusting the eyepiece (if you look at the reticle for more than a second or two your eye will naturally begin to adjust to bring the reticle into focus - and you don't want this to happen. <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">You want to be able to look through the scope and see a sharply focused reticle immediately with your eye relaxed</span></span>). This cannot be achieved by continuously looking through the scope and turning the eyepiece into focus in one continous motion because your eye will have already begun to adjust.
Remember, look away every few seconds and make small adjustments to dial-in the Ocular/Eyepiece focus. Once you have achieved this, you should not adjust the eyepiece at all, except to maintain proper focus as your vision changes over time <span style="font-style: italic">(it always does).</span> You may want to put a pen mark on the eyepiece indexed to the index dot on the scope tube - if the tube doesn't have an index mark use a pencil. That way, if someone else shoots your rifle and adjusts the Ocular you know where to return the adjustment to.
Now, because the Premier's parallax knob has no distance markings, unless you tape, paint, etch, or otherwise mark the parallax knob distances yourself you have no idea what distance the parallax is set to. This requires you to look through the scope and turn the knob to figure-out what direction you need to turn the knob. That is BS. I want to be able to glance at the parallax knob and know what is adjusted to. This in turn tells me what direction I need to turn the knob to in order to focus at the next distance and/or target.
The Premier's parallax knob also seems to have a slower, more fine adjustment range. While this sounds better, in use it actually slows down the focusing operation even more, which as mentioned above works against you.
The S & B has markings (albeit in meters) so I just dial the parallax knob close to the marked setting, peep through the scope and I'm usually right-on or close enough to fine tune within a couple of seconds. Done.
Another thing <span style="font-weight: bold">for me</span> - is the reticle. Despite the fact that the S & B 5-25X Gen 2 XR and the Premier 5-25X Gen 2 XR reticles have the same subtensions on paper, when you look through the scopes the reticles appear quite different. <span style="font-weight: bold">Disclaimer:</span> This is with the understanding that although scope tubes may have marked magnification settings, the scope more than likely has not been calibrated to that exact power. This makes the reticle comparison rather random.
The S & B Gen 2 XR reticle <span style="font-style: italic">appears</span> more fine, and as a result it will have less of a tendency to obscure the target. The smaller the target is the more important this small detail becomes. When you are looking at a 5" target at 1,000 yards you want a very fine reticle indeed. However, the S & B Gen 2 XR is a little less "black" than the Premier's Gen 2 XR reticle, and combined with the extra "fineness" could be an issue against dark backgrounds in daylight.
The Premier Gen 2 XR reticle is slightly more coarse, and appears "blacker". The slightly more coarse (thicker) reticle may not work as well for quartering small targets, but it would seem to be an asset overall, as the easier-to-see reticle is preferred by most people over a fine one. Especially for time-sensitive tactical matches.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Koshy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Second question, when/if you like to shoot out to 800-1,000 yards do you like going with a higher or a lower magnification? Higher meaning 20+ lower meaning 10-16.
Thanks,
- Koshy </div></div>
I've shot out to a Swarovski LG30-ranged 1,080 yards. I prefer the PMII and Premier 5-25Xs' with the Gen 2 XR reticle because I tend to shoot at small targets, frequently estimated at 1/2 MOA or less. Mirage notwithstanding, the higher magnification and clarity of these high-end scopes allows more precise aiming by "quartering" the target.
Something else to keep in mind is that variable optics to tend to suffer from reduced clarity at their highest magnification settings. While this is less prevalent in higher-end scopes it still exists. Generally speaking, if you dial a Premier 3-15X to 15X and compare it to a Premier 5-25X set to 15X the 5-25X will have better clarity. The same is true of a PMII 4-16X at 16X when compared to a PMII 5-25X at "16X", which you have to "eyeball", as there is no "16X" setting on the 5-25X's tube.
Also, even when I am shooting at a paper bull or steel plate 8" in diameter, <span style="font-style: italic">I'm not really shooting at an 8" target</span> - I'm shooting/aiming at the spot where the reticle intersection (crosshair) lies. <span style="font-style: italic">Aim small, miss small</span>.
Keith </div></div>
Very helpful information, maybe PR will eventually adopt a parallax turret with some numbers listed
Also thank you for taking the time out to write all that up, I really appreciate it!
Thanks,
- Koshy