Sako Trg 2013 upgrades

[immelmann]

Also, the only issue I have with my TRG22 (2012 model) is adjusting the trigger down to just above 1kg for F-Class Standard, there is very little spring preload on the second stage. Sometimes the screw would unwind and I'd have a very heavy trigger weight. A tiny bit of Loctite has fixed this. If I am very harsh with throwing the bolt forward I also get a very heavy trigger. I understand why this is so and am happy to live with it.

I am extremely happy with my TRG 22 in .308WIN.

 

[snipe10]

can't believe they cost that much down there

 

[Bill.]

Mate you have no idea!
tikka sporter was 2900~ when they first launched. they then dropped the price to 2200~ when they realised no one was buying.
We are no where near the standard to what america calls home. Our standard is the Tikka t3, the Howa 1500 and the usual 700 crowd.
We pay through the nose for everything shooting related and the big importers get a nice drink out of it while supply and demand has always been far from perfect.

If we could utilise importing better and not have to pay a shitload just to own the privilege, i would imagine many more reputable smithed customs from the US would be making their way around Australia on a weekly basis.
and dont for a minute think we have one up on you guys for calling Nightforce Australian, we pay a fuckload more for those bad boys too.

Now to get out of bed on the right side this morning.

 

[ChrisNZ]

The new TRG trigger is a total redesign. With the previous model, setting the pull very light also meant reducing the sear engagement to very fine tolerances, often badly/unsafely adjusted by the user. The upgrade trigger mechanism is designed so that the internal sear is held in full engagement when at rest. Taking up the first stage pull reduces the sear engagement for a crisp second stage release. If the shot isn't taken, releasing the trigger allows the sear to return to full engagement. The internals look nothing like the old parts.
The "ears" on the new safety also protrude outside of the trigger guard, so that you don't have to insert your finger into the guard to manipulate the safety. These changes came about because of the SOCOM tender requirements and were introduced by Sako on the TRG M10 and upgraded into the TRG 42.
There is a single screw for adjusting the weight.

 

[inalabama]

as i just picked up a trg 22 with the new 2013 trigger assembly upgrade and noticed it didnt look like the old diagram in the manual that came with it, i went looking and found this thread. i thought i would share my experience. i believe i have it figured out. i discovered that contrary to the old manual you do not have to remove the trigger assembly to adjust either first stage or second stage weight. i did run into some issues. here is what i suggest. you can get to both the first and second stage trigger screw heads through the hole in the bottom of the trigger guard. i recommend you first first tighten down both screws all the way. i did that and first stage was at 2 lbs and second stage was at 4 lbs. then i gradually backed both screws off by turning counterclockwise in a series of tests. back off the 1st stage screw first and then the 2nd stage screw. first try got 1st stage down to 1.5 lbs and 2nd down to 2.5. as someone noted in this thread it appears the 2nd stage screw head is just a bit below/the edge is under the 1st stage screw head [maybe to keep the 2nd stage screw from falling out?]. little by little i got the 1st stage down to .75lbs and the second stage down to 1.75 lbs and it is very comfortable there. i will test fire tomorrow to see if there are any issues with the setup. one upsetting thing that did occue was when the second stage screw came all the way out. it took a bit of manipulating but I was able to get it going again under the 1st stage screw [but did create one of those oh sh!@#$T moments]. seems there is no need to remove the trigger assembly at all to adjust 1st and 2nd stage weights. the manual that comes with the gun is useless on this issue [hasnt been updated!]

 

[Jäger Wilhelm]

Thanks for the information! I just bought a TRG 22 less than two weeks and have fired it twice. I think the trigger is superb just the way it is set from the factory. The safety is also one of the best I have used on a rifle. Overall, I am very impressed with the ergonomics of the entire rifle.

 

[robin78]

I recently purchased a brandnew 2012 model only to find out that they now have been upgraded. I hope the new ones are junked back down to a prototype TRG with alot of trigger failures.

 

[boomfab]

So is the TRG22 .260 REM going to be imported here in the USA?

 

[MJY65]

I recently purchased a brandnew 2012 model only to find out that they now have been upgraded. I hope the new ones are junked back down to a prototype TRG with alot of trigger failures.

It's always a little disappointing when a new version of a product comes out and you feel like you are "stuck" with the old. In this case, I wouldn't be too concerned. I never heard that many complaints about the old TRG triggers. I have two of them and find them to be excellent. Any upgrade has to be pretty minor.

 

[Jäger Wilhelm]

as i just picked up a trg 22 with the new 2013 trigger assembly upgrade and noticed it didnt look like the old diagram in the manual that came with it, i went looking and found this thread. i thought i would share my experience. i believe i have it figured out. i discovered that contrary to the old manual you do not have to remove the trigger assembly to adjust either first stage or second stage weight. i did run into some issues. here is what i suggest. you can get to both the first and second stage trigger screw heads through the hole in the bottom of the trigger guard. i recommend you first first tighten down both screws all the way. i did that and first stage was at 2 lbs and second stage was at 4 lbs. then i gradually backed both screws off by turning counterclockwise in a series of tests. back off the 1st stage screw first and then the 2nd stage screw. first try got 1st stage down to 1.5 lbs and 2nd down to 2.5. as someone noted in this thread it appears the 2nd stage screw head is just a bit below/the edge is under the 1st stage screw head [maybe to keep the 2nd stage screw from falling out?]. little by little i got the 1st stage down to .75lbs and the second stage down to 1.75 lbs and it is very comfortable there. i will test fire tomorrow to see if there are any issues with the setup. one upsetting thing that did occue was when the second stage screw came all the way out. it took a bit of manipulating but I was able to get it going again under the 1st stage screw [but did create one of those oh sh!@#$T moments]. seems there is no need to remove the trigger assembly at all to adjust 1st and 2nd stage weights. the manual that comes with the gun is useless on this issue [hasnt been updated!]

Again, thanks for the information! I just tweaked my trigger and brought the second stage down to just under 2.25 lbs. Will take it out this week and see how it performs.

 

[xbrute]

Im just happy to have a TRG42. 2012/2013 who cares! Love it!

 

[samnev]

I don't know how they can improve the trigger. Perhaps they will increase the durability some how. My TRG has the best trigger go any rifle I own including my AIAW. I agree with those who say "if it is not broken don't fix it.

 

[918v]

Wasn't the old trigger guard titanium? If you look close it is milled. Why would they mill it out of plastic?

 

[Rooster721]

Any of you guys with the newer upgraded TRG's..

How would you say the dual-plunger ejectors work in that new 42bolt (vs. the old single plunger style) ?? Mine is the original single-plunger style and has a tough time flinging cases out at times. I'd sure like to know whether there's any intentions to make that bolt-body with dual-plungers available to joe-public. I'd buy one in a second if I could get my hands on one*

 

[jdknotts1]

Picked up my TRG22 a few weeks ago and I've had it out to the range for break-in and a little fun.

This is my first one and I'm noticing a slight creep before the break. Anyway to get rid of this? A buddy said to add some grease to the mating surfaces and it will go away over time after shooting it. I've had the trigger group out and can't really see any way to add grease to the mating surfaces. Any help?

PS: Overall I'm very impressed with it. I've shot some .3MOA groups with it and that's just getting it broke in.