Sako TRG-22 Barrel Replacement with KRG Nut

[Berkenen]

Hey all, anyone have experience swapping/replacing the pipe on a TRG-22 when using the KRG barrel nut?

Is it easy? Can a man of average experience do it?

As for barrels, I see they sell SOTIC barrels on the KRG website, but they have limited options (i.e., only 20" for .308, no 24", or 26"), where else can replacement barrels be found? I read the nut system is the same as Savage, will Savage barrels work?

My main reason for asking is: I don't want to wait for a 'smith to receive my rifle, wait in the shop, repair, and ship back, seems like a waste of valuable range time! I prefer the look of the TRG over AI's, but the AI's ability to change a barrel in a snap is mighty appealing.

Thanks,
JB

PS
how durable is the plastic used for the TRG chassis? Does it hold up for field craft? Does the TRG rust easy (heard rumors)?

 

[TheOE800]

KRG TRG / SOTIC barrels & nut experience wanted

I am back shooting a TRG after too long of a hiatus, I simply missed the rifle. That being said I am not new to the TRG or having it re-barreled. I have had a few custom barrels spun up for my TRG's in the past all with excellent results. The main reason for me leaving the TRG platform (for an...

www.snipershide.com

 

[Berkenen]

KRG TRG / SOTIC barrels & nut experience wanted

I am back shooting a TRG after too long of a hiatus, I simply missed the rifle. That being said I am not new to the TRG or having it re-barreled. I have had a few custom barrels spun up for my TRG's in the past all with excellent results. The main reason for me leaving the TRG platform (for an...

www.snipershide.com

Thanks, but I had done my due diligence and searched up for forum, rest assured. With the linked above being about 3 years old now and with hardly any response on the topic of first hand experience replacing a barrel using the barrel nut I figured I'd ask in a new thread instead of resurrecting a the old one.

The old thread only really discusses accuracy before/after barrel replacement and torqueing.

 

[TheOE800]

Did you try the TRG-22 thread…?

 

[VargmatII]

I cant comment on the barrel nut as I am still on the factory barrel.
But as for the finish, I can tell from experience that the phosphated version is not prone to rust at all. Ive had my TRG soaked in rain for the better part of an all day match and wiped it down with CLP the next day and there was not a hint of rust to be found.

The factory Urethane stock is pretty durable. There have been reports that the rear section has cracked on TRG42 rifles (heavy recoil). I have not heard about anyone having this issue with the 22. Might have happened though.
I run the KRG rear folder and Sako Urethane front stock, I am on my third year now and no issues so far.

 

[jet_lagged]

Most likely the hardest part about a barrel swap on a TRG is getting the original factory barrel removed. Normally takes a cheater bar and a really good barrel vise.

But then threading on a prefit should be easy. PVA make standard/shouldered prefits for TRG and other Sako's. Or go the KRG SOTIC route and set your headspace with a go-gage and the barrel nut. But no, Savage barrels will not work as the thread are different. Anybody should be able to install the barrel with the nut system, or just torque on a shouldered prefit.

 

[Berkenen]

I cant comment on the barrel nut as I am still on the factory barrel.
But as for the finish, I can tell from experience that the phosphated version is not prone to rust at all. Ive had my TRG soaked in rain for the better part of an all day match and wiped it down with CLP the next day and there was not a hint of rust to be found.

The factory Urethane stock is pretty durable. There have been reports that the rear section has cracked on TRG42 rifles (heavy recoil). I have not heard about anyone having this issue with the 22. Might have happened though.
I run the KRG rear folder and Sako Urethane front stock, I am on my third year now and no issues so far.

Thats good to know, really clears a myth I was reading, heard one guy was having surface rust appear on his TRG42 about weekly... Couldn't believe it!

Sounds like the stocks are at least half-way beefy/durable then. Good to know.. How do you think the Urethane stock compares to the plastic skins AI chassis use?

Most likely the hardest part about a barrel swap on a TRG is getting the original factory barrel removed. Normally takes a cheater bar and a really good barrel vise.

But then threading on a prefit should be easy. PVA make standard/shouldered prefits for TRG and other Sako's. Or go the KRG SOTIC route and set your headspace with a go-gage and the barrel nut. But no, Savage barrels will not work as the thread are different. Anybody should be able to install the barrel with the nut system, or just torque on a shouldered prefit.

So, sounds like once the factory barrel is worn out and a KRG nut and new barrel it's all down hill from there. Looking at PVA's website I don't see any barrels for Sako or TRG listed when searching.. Is it some thing that would have to be specially ordered?

 

[CerebralDistortion]

The TRG has a M27x1.5 barrel thread which is quite uncommon...

 

[VargmatII]

Thats good to know, really clears a myth I was reading, heard one guy was having surface rust appear on his TRG42 about weekly... Couldn't believe it!

Sounds like the stocks are at least half-way beefy/durable then. Good to know.. How do you think the Urethane stock compares to the plastic skins AI chassis use?

Keep in mind that there is the standard blued version of the TRG 22 and 42 as well, and they might be more prone to rust.

I happen to have a custom build that is in a AICS AX chassis too. I would say that there is a big difference. The TRG has the urethane stock parts where the rear section has an alloy "skeleton" and is "load bearing" as the recoil forces will go through the pistolgrip and on out to the shoulder stock. The AICS on the other hand has an alloy mainsection that runs through the entire lenght of the stock. The pistolgrip on an AX/AT is only there to give you something to hold on to. It has nothing to do with the recoil forces and thus its just plastic and should not be too prone to cracking.

That aside, I do prefer the ergonomics of the TRG, but have no issues running either.

 

[CerebralDistortion]

And to clarify: The difference in surface treatment is barrel only. The action is phosphorized/parkerized, or what ever you want to call it, and the barrel is blued on the black stocked rifles.

The stock is sturdy enough for anything up to and including 300WM. "Mark and Sam after work" has a YT vid of Mark modifying and talking about the stock durability for ELR.

 

[noobinacan]

is PVA the only folks selling TRG prefit ? are there others out there ?

 

[stefan73]

Thats good to know, really clears a myth I was reading, heard one guy was having surface rust appear on his TRG42 about weekly... Couldn't believe it!

Sounds like the stocks are at least half-way beefy/durable then. Good to know.. How do you think the Urethane stock compares to the plastic skins AI chassis use?


So, sounds like once the factory barrel is worn out and a KRG nut and new barrel it's all down hill from there. Looking at PVA's website I don't see any barrels for Sako or TRG listed when searching.. Is it some thing that would have to be specially ordered?

I've had both my TRG's in the rain. My TRG-42 spent multiple days and nights in the field on a hunt in Alaska with no surface rust. From everything I have read the biggest PITA is removing the barrel the first time.

 

[GBMaryland]

I haven’t read the entire thread… It’s a standard procedure in the United States for getting the barrel off of a TRG is the cut a relief in the barrel right before the face of them receiver. Once that’s done, the factory barrel comes off with no problems.

I’ve had PVA perform this procedure on both a TRG and a TIKKA.

if you have concerns, I recommend Patriot Valley or short action customs. I have a lot of experience with PVA and they are great people. SAC is recommended by KRG.

 

[Tikkaguy]

My gunsmith used every trick in the book couldn’t get my barrel off, so he ended up relief cutting the barrel off. I was curious about the krg nut but I ended up doing a pva prefit. Didn’t like the idea of barrel but without a floating bolt head like a savage. Not many reviews on it. Sure it works well.

 

[wade2big]

I put mine in a $100 mechforce vice held on the table with two C-clamps and secured a Wheeler #1 action wrench on the flats. I had the handle horizontal to the ground and with one hand held pressure down on the handle and with the other I hit the end with a rubber mallet. Three or four wacks and it spun free. No relief cut or cheater pipe required.

 

[shlouf]

I have had one factory barrel that was easy to get off. The other 3 I used a pipe wrench. Better than a relief cut IMO. Wrench marks on the barrel sure, but the barrel is still useable.

Have the barrel vise so that the barrel is back over the work bench. Use the action wrench so that the handle is about 10 o’clock. Tighten the barrel vise just enough so that the action spins when applying a couple ugga duggas. Have the barrel through the pipe wrench jaws behind the barrel vise so that it bites when the action starts to spin and locks into place against the table. A few good wacks on the action wrench and it will come loose no problem.

 

[GBMaryland]

I have a KRG action wrench, and I ordered the wheeler…. I’m going to give it a try

 

[wade2big]

I have a KRG action wrench, and I ordered the wheeler…. I’m going to give it a try

I haven’t had a Tikka or Sako beat me yet. You got it.

 

[TheOE800]

I have a KRG action wrench, and I ordered the wheeler…. I’m going to give it a try

IMO it’s more about barrel torque than anything. I still failed on a Tikka with a Wheeler because I couldn’t get the barrel tight enough in my vise.

 

[CerebralDistortion]

As always when removing a tight nut/screw and so on, it is about overcoming the initial binding force. This is not done by applying force gradually, but with a good whack.

 

[GBMaryland]

I have a SAC barrel vice... so I'll mount that and give it a try!

 

[TheOE800]

I have a SAC barrel vice... so I'll mount that and give it a try!

With hands like yours I’m sure you’ll get enough torque into it. Do you have the right bushing? That was definitely an issue on the Tikka I think, but SAC doesn’t have a TRG-specific bushing to my knowledge.

 

[GBMaryland]

It’s a set of bushings… so you find the one that it closest and torque it down… hopefully…

Heh.

I’ve got three replacement barrels….

Two 300wm and one mission specific carbon fiber in 300prc. (The latter in case I hate myself.)

 

[Tikkaguy]

Resurrecting an old thread, looked on krg website and don’t see them selling the barrels anymore just the nuts. Kinda sad, was thinking of adopting that system but if they don’t make the barrels to order anymore it kind of defeats the purpose of using the system, I tried a pva prefit, wouldn’t waste my time on that shit. Took forever to get and I lucky to get 1 moa with it with handloads . Had my local smith spin me up a bartlein in 260 shoots pretty good. But his chamber job is rough as hell in the shoulder area, it shoots well in the 1/2-.7 area. Always wonder about krg barrels.

 

[GBMaryland]

I have one brux barrel in 65cm for the TRG-22 should anyone need it. (it’s listed for sale in the for sale forum)

The one I put on my TRG42 is absolutely fantastic.

Accessories - KRG Sako TRG-22/22A1 Brux 65CM Barrel w/ KRG BBL Nut and Wrench

I've parted with my TRG-22 and have an extra KRG barrel laying around. A NIB Brux 24in TRG-22/22A1 barrel with the KRG barrel nut system, and the wrench for installation. I put a bartlein on my old TRG-22 using the same barrel nut system, and I'm also using it with a TRG-42 300WM Brux barrel...

www.snipershide.com

Don’t have the 22 anymore, so I don’t need it.