Savage 110 LR hunter 338LM/Update 8/7/18, 2000 hrs CST DONE !!!

[Gunfighter14e2]

So I get the itch an buy one. I must say when it extracts it is a 3/8-1/2 moa gun w/ factory PPU ammo which really surprised me. When it will not extract its a 1.0 - 1.5 moa stick. The 20moa rail was not lock-tighted but we corrected that prior to scope mounting, as well as adjusting the trigger to as low as it will go. My trigger finger says it's heaver than they say the minimum is but for now it's OK. Might re-visit that once the new extractor parts Savage is sending arrive an correct that issue. All in all for the money once I get it to my liking I think it will be a winner. The break an recoil pad really make it pleasant to shoot, but I'll add top holes to the break at some point. Think I'll start with 0.125 holes an work up as needed to get it to where my 300wms are. You just see the holes appear with them. Don't really like the exit hole as big as it is, but once the top holes are installed it may not be worth carving out another break, we'll see.
Did 40 rds this am, no problem with the 250gr projos recoil at all. Recoil is about the same as my old 22'' 5.5 taper 308 in a HS stock.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

Added the longer factory Bolt handle an smoothed up the action quite a bit so far. Just waiting on the Factory parts but hedged my bet on some after market bolt parts as well, so confident we'll get her going 100% soon. Decided to remove the factory break an drill top holes an see if that works if not I'll carve out another an cure that issue as well.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

Update,
Junked the factory break an carved out an new one, ...wound up with .250 top holes.
Had, to replace the firing pin spring an reset the firing pin protrusion as well to make that part reliable.
Had, to polish the chamber to get extraction to work properly.
If the Accutrigger is pushed sideways when cocked it will lock up an not fire until your cycle the bolt again, going to make spacers to correct this. A two ton trigger pull almost stops this (aka factory setting) but a likeable trigger setting is easy to lock up, in the field. Ask me how I know this!!!
Running the bolt is still like two pieces of sand paper with 10 lbs or weight on them.
The first, Second, third an fourth rds from a full mag take muscle to fed quick, the 5th is about twice as hard as the first from either of my 300wm's.
The bolt hits/moves the mag follower every time you cycle it empty, which makes a racket, so I'll make a 0.030 tapered shim to correct this as well.
If I had known all of this before hand I would have just bought a Remington. Then again look at the extra time I get to spend with my mill an lathe, just trying to get this thing to work properly.
Oh BTW the factory parts have never arrived to date.
There was a reason I never liked Savage. Guess I just had to remind my self of same after 40+ years of never owning one after that first one.

OK Savage fan boys, have at it.

edit, both 300wm's are Remington's
No more Savages for me after this one! To much work to get them even half ass right. They are cheap for a reason!!!!!!!

 

[MtnCreek]

I have a few savages. One is sporting a good match barrel and shoots great. It's still a savage... Aftermarket trigger (I believe it's timney, pre accua trigger) set at a Safe weight is ~OK. Actually it sucks if I switch to it after using a rem w/ timney at 1.5# and no creep. Extraction works well enough for what I use it for. I've replaced the extractor, ejector and springs with more factory parts and it works better than before, but still manages to leave a case sitting on top of the mag sometimes.

I'm tempted looking through the for sale section here. I saw a nice manners la savage stock this morning. I thought about pulling the trigger. Nice stock, decent price, I've got a la savage sitting around that would make a good project.... Then I decide I don't need another savage with more money in it than it would ever come close to being worth.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

Spent 2 hrs yesterday smoothing up the receiver an bolt.
It's much smoother, but still not where I want it.
Then when reinstalling the action screws into the stock, went to open the bolt an it unlocked w/o issue but would not open. Problem was rear screw was now to long, hoping stock is not starting to have an issue.
Cut the fastener down 0.015 an the bolt opens now.
The parts Savaged said they would send have still not arrived, should I be surprised?
The tail of Savage ownership suffrage rolls on.

 

[cav has been]

I could say friends don't let friends run salvages but I won't go there as I own one (1). Being the crude individual I deleted the little plastic thingie in the midst of the accutrigger,as I discovered my short fat fingers occasionally put enough sideways pressure on the trigger to un cock it . I also discovered that salvages really hate any kind of excitement in the primer area. Operator error in incorrect resizing coupled with a full charge, compounded with much higher ambient temps, a hot barrel, and heat soak resulted in a blown primer. This scrambled the ejector spring, turning a single shot LRP rifle into a non ejecting single shot rifle in mid match.
Your milage may vary. S,

 

[Dirty D]

So I get the itch an buy one. I must say when it extracts it is a 3/8-1/2 moa gun w/ factory PPU ammo which really surprised me. When it will not extract its a 1.0 - 1.5 moa stick...

I’m not getting the correlation between extraction and group size?

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

I’m not getting the correlation between extraction and group size?

I did not either but that was what it was doing? After I bought parts to correct that issue (savage said they would send replacement parts but they never have todate) that issue went away.

 

[Dirty D]

I did not either but that was what it was doing? After I bought parts to correct that issue (savage said they would send replacement parts but they never have todate) that issue went away.

That doesn’t make the least bit of sense based on what little I know but the bullet (or group size) never lies.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

The de-dent ball that comes from the factory is much smaller than aftermarket ones. The extractor is longer on the brass side in the aftermarket as well. The only thing I could think of, when the extractor never latched over it was pushing on the rim, but only speculation on my part.

 

[Dirty D]

Savage is not known for sloppy enough chambers for the extractor to push the case off center (unlike Remington) but it is possible. I’m glad that the new extractor fixed the issue.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

I think this chamber was cut with a file as ruff as it was before polishing. As it left circular marks on the brass all the way up, save the neck. That took some work getting corrected to the point it is now, which I'm sure did not help extraction at all.
If I ever get it to my liking for the intended task, I'll be happy. I was out of the grit I like to use to finish up the reciever with, but GayBay to the rescue. Shipping says it should be here next Thursday so I''ll tear her down hopefully for the last time thereafter, an finish the chamber polishing up as well while she apart. The Leupold 3.5x10x40 M3 w/a moa tree ret that sets a top her seems to fit the task nicely. As with the load I'm using she will get to 1250yds w/o dialing anything an to 1600 in 48.5 moa total. Doubt I will ever use it past 1200, but you never know.

 

[NewsShooter]

Update,

If the Accutrigger is pushed sideways when cocked it will lock up an not fire until your cycle the bolt again, going to make spacers to correct this. A two ton trigger pull almost stops this (aka factory setting) but a likeable trigger setting is easy to lock up, in the field. Ask me how I know this!!!

I've got a couple savage long range precision rifles, one in 6.5CM the other is currently a .223 but it's also been a 6.5X47 and 7 Saum. . You can get a lighter spring for the trigger, both of mine are about a lb right now. The .223 was closer to 6 oz but you had to close the bolt gently and make sure you pushed the blade straight back. Poor trigger mechanics resulted in tripping the accutrigger. I treat them like a two stage, take up the slack in the blade and the make the shot. It actually makes you concentrate on your trigger pull. I haven't had any of your other issues but I don't regularly get to shoot past 1200 and a 338 doesn't make sense to me unless your looking to shoot past a mile.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

I've got a couple savage long range precision rifles, one in 6.5CM the other is currently a .223 but it's also been a 6.5X47 and 7 Saum. . You can get a lighter spring for the trigger, both of mine are about a lb right now. The .223 was closer to 6 oz but you had to close the bolt gently and make sure you pushed the blade straight back. Poor trigger mechanics resulted in tripping the accutrigger. I treat them like a two stage, take up the slack in the blade and the make the shot. It actually makes you concentrate on your trigger pull. I haven't had any of your other issues but I don't regularly get to shoot past 1200 and a 338 doesn't make sense to me unless your looking to shoot past a mile.

It's not trigger mechanics, it's the issue of a bush, limb or anything bumping the trigger an locking it up I have issue with. Glad you got a good one, but everyone I have talked to around here have had or still has the same issues I found.

edit, this thing was not bought for long range, nor would I even consider it, or making, it into a long range stick, my 300wm rems fill that/those slots nicely.

 

[Dirty D]

...edit, this thing was not bought for long range, nor would I even consider it, or making, it into a long range stick, my 300wm rems fill that/those slots nicely.

Have you found any 33 caliber APITs yet??

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

Have you found any 33 caliber APITs yet??

No not yet but I hear they are around though. I have found a few specialty rds/projo's to fill a need or two, should it ever arise.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Most of my bolt guns are Savages, and I appear to be one of the lucky ones who have minimal complaints (bad mounting on the Axis II Package rifle scope which I was replacing anyway). But this and other tales of woe have me disappointed on your behalf. Hoping your tale ends happily.

Greg

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

Found the correct polishing compound at a local one off/close-out store today. Pulled her apart, completed the job. Put her back together an was surprized at how easy it unlocks, cycles, an re-cocks now. To the local range in the AM to re-check zero an how she operates/cycles when hot.

 

[308220]

I have a Model 10, 308win with a pacnor barrel. No feed/extraction issues. Nearly 4k rounds on factory bolt parts. Accu trigger is just as good as my Timney.

Also have a 112, 6.5-284 Norma single shot. Pacnor barrel. Timney trigger. New firing spring (factory spring was left in cocked position for over a decade). No extraction issues.


Sounds like you got a bad one. Happens with all manufacturers. Guess you just need a GAP if youre serious about your long range, precision fire.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

Guess you just need a GAP if youre serious about your long range, precision fire.

The 338 was never bought for LR steel or paper shooting.
Have a GAP built in 300wm, while it shot OK it was not until I had it rebarreled by a no name, that it came alive. Had another 300wm built by another no name an it would shoot circles around the other one before the re-barrel. Had a GAP built 308 an sent it down the road along time ago. A name means nothing, as targets tell the truth no matter what.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

Back from the range, everything good as far as single feeding, extraction, ejection, an groups are in the 3/8-1/2 moa size. There is still a feeding issue from the mag. The last rd takes more force to feed that any of my Remington's first rds, from a full mag. So I'll dig into that issue next an see what the problem is. I suspect a stronger than required spring coupled with feed lips that need polishing. I have not lowered the mag yet, to stop the bolt from pushing the empty follower down but will, as well as correcting the slop noise the mag makes when empty. Once we get all that correct she might do the job I bought it for. Sad I have had to correct it to this point, but then again savages are cheap for a reason.

 

[Dirty D]

...A name means nothing, as targets tell the truth no matter what.

?

 

[Gooldylocks]

So, couple questions.

Why did you not just send it immediately back after the first day of shooting if the chamber was so rough, it didn't extract AND it was damn near impossible to run the bolt? That sounds like an RMA to me.

Also, what did you buy it for if not for long range? Genuine question, as I don't really see the purpose of a big boomer like that for anything except ELR or killin big stuff far away.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

I don't send things like that back, I fix all my guns.
It was only bought for breaking things that may need broke at some point. I care less about square range ELR, or killing a animal at long. If my field crafts sucks to the point I can't get within 100yds, I need to go hungry. I only kill for two reasons, I'm going to eat it or it's intent on eating me.

 

[Gooldylocks]

So basically, you are complaining that you got a lemon and are having to go through all the effort to fix it, but never let the manufacturer try to do you right? I totally understand wanting to fix your own gear, but if you got an objectively terrible piece of equipment you should send it back and get a new one/have it fixed. It just makes no sense to me to waste a bunch of effort trying to fix something that was broken to begin with, versus starting with a functional item and then maintaining it from there.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

So basically, you are complaining that you got a lemon and are having to go through all the effort to fix it, but never let the manufacturer try to do you right? I totally understand wanting to fix your own gear, but if you got an objectively terrible piece of equipment you should send it back and get a new one/have it fixed. It just makes no sense to me to waste a bunch of effort trying to fix something that was broken to begin with, versus starting with a functional item and then maintaining it from there.

Any mfg that would put a product on the street like this thing tells me they could give a shit about their name in the first place!
More informing others what they will run into with one of these. Like I said I don't send shit back no matter what it is, I have the ability, tooling an supplies to fix most everything myself. I'm not handicapped in the repair or re-engineering skill sets at all. I think a mfg should test the shit they make, but that's just me. I'd be ashamed to put my name on anything with the issues I have found on this thing. Some people settle for what they buy, many hope they are getting their moneys worth, an if not send the shit back for a refund, or wait 2 weeks to whenever to get it back from warranty. Others would bitch if hung with a new rope, I'm none of those types. I knew a Salvage was not high end going in but, with all the salvage fan boys raving about them I looked at the specs, an said why not, no matter the issue I can fix it regardless. I never envisioned I'd have spend the amount of time to correct what should have been correct from the factory. Their basic design is good but their machining is lacking big time, an their QC dept must be getting paid off by the production dept. I've much seen better machining on Russian an Chinese shit. Just because it goes bang once under controlled conditions does not mean it's fit to go out the door! Yet people wonder why products only one ocean away are selling here. H&R learned a hard lesson long ago,...as did RG an a few others, but as long as there are "settlers" salvage will roll on. I do one thing if I were one of their product engineer's I'd put a boot in someone's ass to correct their machining an QC. Everything I have done to this point on this gun would cost no more than 10-15 bucks per stick to correct at the factory. If 15 bucks is a deal breaker at wholesale, they need to rethink their overhead costs, or bonus that should be revoked.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

So all my mags are now polished an I have changed the spring tension/rate on the follower's as well. They feed almost as good as any of my Remington's, but with the rd size difference being what it is I doubt I could get them any easier, save a very expensive coating. Next thing is removing the mag latch an removing 0.030 to drop the mag so as the bolt does not hit the follower when closing on a empty chamber. Once that is corrected the last thing will be correcting the noise the mag makes when loaded or empty in the mag well. Thinking about two flat leaf springs at this point but have not decided as of yet, as there may be other options also.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

Removed the mag latch an seen/felt it was lacking in spring pressure. Thought about that for 5 seconds an decided not to remove an metal from the latch to drop the mag. Instead I increased the latch spring rate. Have a huge selection of spring stock (as well as wire( round an flat) to wind/make any rate I want) an found a size an rate that seemed like it would add more forward pressure that might stop the rattle. I cut a piece off of the 12" length, ground it flat on both ends (even though it had counter bores both ends)an installed same. No more rattle, drop free an the mag follower is now quiet but still in the same place. Project done!
Been interesting to say the least, shame a product design that has the capability this thing now has, could not be brought to market correctly. I see no reason that if they corrected all the defects they could not get another 200bucks wholesale for this thing. Recoil is less than a 20-22" rack 308, does 3/8-1/2 moa groups, is slinging my chosen 240gr lehigh bullet to 3000fps at the muzzle an getting to 1600yds in 48moa, an is lighter than a 22" #5.5 Remington taper. They are missing the boat if they don't improve this product, as the local guys who have been watching this all transpire are now asking if I would assest them with the ones their going to buy. First time threw anything is the worst after that it's mostly cookie cutter work. Again it all could be corrected at the factory for little to nothing, depending. Was it all worth it,... now yes. Would I buy another of the model, yes as now it would only take about 6 hrs total to turn one (untouched in the box) into something that works like it should. Would I buy another if savage upped the price 200 bucks that came out of the box an does what this one will now do,...in a heart beat if I needed or wanted one

 

[deersniper]

I think this chamber was cut with a file as ruff as it was before polishing. As it left circular marks on the brass all the way up, save the neck. That took some work getting corrected to the point it is now, which I'm sure did not help extraction at all.
If I ever get it to my liking for the intended task, I'll be happy. I was out of the grit I like to use to finish up the reciever with, but GayBay to the rescue. Shipping says it should be here next Thursday so I''ll tear her down hopefully for the last time thereafter, an finish the chamber polishing up as well while she apart. The Leupold 3.5x10x40 M3 w/a moa tree ret that sets a top her seems to fit the task nicely. As with the load I'm using she will get to 1250yds w/o dialing anything an to 1600 in 48.5 moa total. Doubt I will ever use it past 1200, but you never know.

What is the Leupold moa tree reticle you speak of? May be useful on some guns that don't merit a NF. Thanks.

 

[deersniper]

The 338 was never bought for LR steel or paper shooting.
Have a GAP built in 300wm, while it shot OK it was not until I had it rebarreled by a no name, that it came alive. Had another 300wm built by another no name an it would shoot circles around the other one before the re-barrel. Had a GAP built 308 an sent it down the road along time ago. A name means nothing, as targets tell the truth no matter what.

When did you get your GAPs? I think they got popular and took too much work and quality went down hill. Have a 308 and 7RM that are great shooters, but since I bought a barrel from SAC, I think they are my go to now.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

You did a lot more than fix a lemon, you actually did the R&D to correct the basic design flaws.

Just a suggestion, that you take a few, jot down the steps and the numbers, and forward them to Savage, so you can be more than a victim of mediocrity , and be the solution, too.

We'd all benefit in the long run, even if it all just gets swallowed up in the machine. Somebody will have to read it, and sometime down the line, it just might make it to the drawing board.

Ever the optimist....

Greg

 

[steve123]

Yeah, I learned my lesson with Salvage. I've seen 1 in 5 that actually had nothing wrong with it.

Good thing you're handy. I'm slightly handy, just enough to get it right the 2nd or 3rd time around. I've got no patience for this kind of turd polishing BS! Plus if given a chance I can tune to a standstill. So I end up scrapping parts then spending more money in new parts.

We did run across a Remmy that had a off spec bolt and extractor problem. Out of many over 40 years span. No Co or product is perfect but some Co's belong in the "I told you so" category.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

What is the Leupold moa tree reticle you speak of? May be useful on some guns that don't merit a NF. Thanks.

I bought some 3.5x10x40 M3's Mk 4's long ago that had TMR rets. I'm not fond of mil scopes at all, even though I own three that are on 22lrs or 444's or 44 rem mag. Once I found out Leupold came out with a MOA tree ret an it could be installed in many of their scopes I sent one of the MK 4's in for the change. To say I was happy with it after it came back is an understatement. So every Leupold I have went back to get them installed. Now I don't have to dial anything up to 32moa I hold it all. I have used them long enough now that I built what I call a double'r stop for them all. I now can just look threw the scope an know what power it's on an range an shoot very quickly. I was so happy I went an bought a 6.5x20x50 M1 Mk 4 that came new with the tree installed, but me an Leupold went round an round over that scope do to it not holding zero on a 300wm. Long short, they finally corrected the issue but I had to prove to them it was the scope, nothing else. Got a hold of a guy there that shoots an he mounted it up on one of his guns an shoot it before anyone there laid hands on it, when she arrived for the 4th time. He agreed it had issues, but their average repair person could not find the issue. He sent it to their top tech, that guy did his thing an it was shot at Leupold again before being shipped back to me. Now it's right, does what it's supposed to do finally. Could be the average repair tech or average shooter would have never noticed it don't know(I am not a good shooter by no means)
I traded a guy here on the hide for another 3.5x10x40 Mk4 M1 an shot it first before sending it off for the ret change. Found it had issues with holding zero as will, but it was an older scope that had seen use, other than being a safe queen. Sent a note asking for that issue it be corrected, oddly enough the guy that fixed my 20x was the same guy that corrected this one. Called CS an thanked them for the fast turn around (2 weeks door to door) an the guy I was talking to made comment about notes upon my account, which I found interesting.

As to the GAP's, the first one was done (R-700 in 300wm)was in about 20005 an the second was a R-700 in.308, about late 2006. That 300 was topped with a SN3 22x with a type 1 moa ret but when the MDMOA came out I sent it back for the change. Never an issue with that scope, but my second 300wm sports the 20x mk 4 with the tree ret an I like it much better. Most of my shooting is a grand an under an I've never needed more than 10X for moa tragets. The only advantage of the 22 or 20x is on a square range I don't need a spotting scope to play. In the field these 10x's still allow me to target ID w/o issue but as old as I am I have a little more experience in knowing what to look for over the younger or less field experience guys. The 10x's great FOV when tracking movers or hunting your target. I've found if you can quarter a target no matter it's size, if you know your gun/load you will own that target quickly. I'm not much of a paper/steel guy, an there are no different levels of dead. It's just how fast can you kill the target, than matters to me,...but that's just me.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

We did run across a Remmy that had a off spec bolt and extractor problem. Out of many over 40 years span. No Co or product is perfect but some Co's belong in the "I told you so" category.

Every mfg is going to put a POS out at some point. I had a 700 rem in 7mm RM back in the very early 80's that I question, until I started digging into it. 3 months later it was working great an a local dept shooting at the FOP range in Brandon Fla wanted to buy it. Sold it, an have regretted it to this day, so could be I am my own worst enemy at times, an glutton for a challenge. This one was a challange, but now worth all the effort for what it will do. It's lite, reliable, easy to operate, an now It's bite is equal to it's bark. Infact so much so after a 50rd range session with her this morning, I am considering selling both 300wm's.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

You did a lot more than fix a lemon, you actually did the R&D to correct the basic design flaws.

Just a suggestion, that you take a few, jot down the steps and the numbers, and forward them to Savage, so you can be more than a victim of mediocrity , and be the solution, too.

We'd all benefit in the long run, even if it all just gets swallowed up in the machine. Somebody will have to read it, and sometime down the line, it just might make it to the drawing board.

Ever the optimist....

Greg

Greg,
I doubt it would do any good to document an send in. If the parts they were going to send ever arrived that would be different, but after calling them twice an nothing to date, that says something to me, about them. This thread (so I am told) has made it to other places on the net. If they cared about their product/name I'm sure at some point they will read this, AAR. That puts the ball in their court, as they can get my email or briefly sign up an send a pm.
As far as the lemon part what I have seen after investigating their product line this is sop, an I'm sure someone will say I'm just picky, which could be true?
I'm one of those guys that
(1) If I can't get it to work the way I want it to an
(2) It's not reliable there after I'll get rid of it quickly but tell the buyer it's faults.

I've been lucky in life to be able to correct most anything mechanical to my liking, no matter what it was. For that I give thanks to all my kinfolk for instilling fortitude, what other things they taught me as a child, as well as their last words on paper to me,... They were right life is what you make it, an I am blessed with some ability an all the tooling one needs. Tooling wants, are another thing, LOL
edit for spelling,...again

 

[steve123]

Every mfg is going to put a POS out at some point. I had a 700 rem in 7mm RM back in the very early 80's that I question, until I started digging into it. 3 months later it was working great an a local dept shooting at the FOP range in Brandon Fla wanted to buy it. Sold it, an have regretted it to this day, so could be I am my own worst enemy at times, an glutton for a challenge. This one was a challange, but now worth all the effort for what it will do. It's lite, reliable, easy to operate, an now It's bite is equal to it's bark. Infact so much so after a 50rd range session with her this morning, I am considering selling both 300wm's.

You must really like 338L!!!

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

You must really like 338L!!!

I don't like the cost associated with pulling the trigger each time, but yes I like it for it's ability's. Although it's over hyped, for some tasks. It will do a little more than my 300's with specialty ammo, depending range though an that was the premise of buying. It's lite, now accurate each shot, dependable, quite operating an has a bite when it gets there. I'm a little long in the tooth to run very far, but good as I ever was standing my ground if need be. With this thing I can start a game of tag a little farther out if need be, LOL

 

[308220]

If you already knew Savages were a POS (in your opinion), why did you even bother buying this rifle? You could have bought any stock Rem 700 and invested even more time working on it to make it function correctly if you were looking for a "project". Sounds like a Savage bash from the get go. Some here already know it.

"Ill buy this POS rifle and then bitch about all the shit I have to fix."

Anyways, good luck with your rifle lol

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

If you already knew Savages were a POS (in your opinion), why did you even bother buying this rifle? You could have bought any stock Rem 700 and invested even more time working on it to make it function correctly if you were looking for a "project". Sounds like a Savage bash from the get go. Some here already know it.

"Ill buy this POS rifle and then bitch about all the shit I have to fix."

Anyways, good luck with your rifle lol

40+ years ago i owned a 24V an they would not sell replacement parts to anyone w/o a FFL. I swore never to deal with them again, but went stupid do to believing all the net fan boys. I have owned many a R-700 an never had to spend as much time to correct them as i have this one. Had you the fan boys been truthful about these things I'd have never bought it in the first place. Remington makes a 700 in 338lm but I was looking for a lite stick, as I have humped shit before. Like I said if your a safe queen owner, or just a box of shells each year hunter, or square range shooter with no other experience you might think they are the cats ass because you can smith it on you kitchen table. That is not my world, if it's a POS I call it like I see it. If you happen to like yours go for it, but I would caution you on betting your life to one, or dicking up a shot because of their std out the door models. You might like a sandpaper on sandpaper bolt throw, or not knowing if the POS will go off when you pull the trigger, extract an eject the round if it does in fact fire, or make a shit load of noise when moving, that ain't me. If Salvage gave a shit they would have ask for it back the first call or even the second call (I would have never sent it back but thats not the issue)but no, we'll send you the parts. The fucking parts have not arrived to date, so that in an of it's self tells me all I need to know about them caring past payment an setting them on the factory dock. This whole thing has taught me something, many guys here are full of shit about product the hawk. Guess most either don't know, or have nothing else to compare they stuff to. About like someone saying where they live is the best place on earth, when they have never been anywhere else, or lived anywhere else in their lives. Some people will never know, what they don't know, until it's pointed out.

edit for spelling

 

[steve123]

If you already knew Savages were a POS (in your opinion), why did you even bother buying this rifle? You could have bought any stock Rem 700 and invested even more time working on it to make it function correctly if you were looking for a "project". Sounds like a Savage bash from the get go. Some here already know it.

"Ill buy this POS rifle and then bitch about all the shit I have to fix."

Anyways, good luck with your rifle lol

I took it to be, "I gave Savage a chance" but look what happened.

Just like I did, I really tried to like the action I had, it was just so crappy from the get go.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

I see there are those who get this thread, an there are salvage fan boys.

Fan boys,... the parts have not arrived yet an I doubt they ever will from reading other sites on the net. Looks to me like once you buy it you get the 50--50 warranty,............if it breaks in to you still own both pieces. One thing about it QUALITY after-market parts are out there. Interesting how there must have been such a demand that someone started tooling up to make, quality stock parts.

 

[sav338lapua]

yes i get this thread, there are some people that like savage rifles and some that don't .......you obviously don't, knuff said.

 

[Rstrick0352]

It's not trigger mechanics, it's the issue of a bush, limb or anything bumping the trigger an locking it up I have issue with.

This is a non-issue unless you’re wandering around with the rifle off safe.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

This is a non-issue unless you’re wandering around with the rifle off safe.

Uncle taught me long ago a safety is for those who have no control over their muzzle. I have never relied or used a safety on any weapon there after, an that was 54 years ago. I don't trust people who rely on a safety, muzzle control is where it's at.

 

[Rstrick0352]

Uncle taught me long ago a safety is for those who have no control over their muzzle. I have never relied or used a safety on any weapon there after, an that was 54 years ago. I don't trust people who rely on a safety, muzzle control is where it's at.

This response is the culmination of all the nonsense you’ve been spouting in this thread for pages. If it had any merit, hostage rescue CT forces wouldn’t have language in their weapons’ safety rules along the lines of your weapon remaining on safe until you’re ready to destroy your target. I read too many comments here where people have been handling you with kid gloves and frankly it’s pathetic. Either master your weapon system or get one that will cater to your idiosyncrasies.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

I could care less about what other people do or think, that's on them.

 

[308pirate]

This response is the culmination of all the nonsense you’ve been spouting in this thread for pages. If it had any merit, hostage rescue CT forces wouldn’t have language in their weapons’ safety rules along the lines of your weapon remaining on safe until you’re ready to destroy your target. I read too many comments here where people have been handling you with kid gloves and frankly it’s pathetic. Either master your weapon system or get one that will cater to your idiosyncrasies.

+1

I don't know who pays attention to this paranoid nutjob

 

[Gooldylocks]

Just because you were taught to not rely on a safety doesn't mean you shouldn't ALSO use a safety. Having multiple layers of safety net means that multiple things need to go wrong (swiss cheese model) before you can have an accident. If you want to wander around with the safety off do so on an empty chamber and just run the bolt to load only once on target. That will also fix your accutrigger gripe at the same time.

I don't consider myself a savage fanboy, but this thread was just a bash without even giving them a chance to make it right.

 

[Precision Underground]

Uncle taught me long ago a safety is for those who have no control over their muzzle. I have never relied or used a safety on any weapon there after, an that was 54 years ago. I don't trust people who rely on a safety, muzzle control is where it's at.

Lol. Yep you have to watch out for them types that use their safety.

That’s the most moronic statement I’ve ever read here. And that is saying something. So what happens to your muzzle control when you slip and fall and your gun falls with you? Let me guess, you trained with the wind-walker tribe and haven’t slipped on terrain in 34 years. You also see holes appear on paper at 100 yards with a 300 WM. Lmao.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

Laughing, look the QC dept showed up. Any group of people who think a mechanical device is their savor, over being stupid says a lot. I have slipped many times but never with a rd in the chamber. interesting that people equate their ability an habits to others. So which one of you experts are from salvage, for a derail? The proof is in the pudding. Then again it was only time before the internet police an salvage fan boys showed up, plying their wears.