Savage 110 quality one piece base

[Hobo_Steve]

Looking to rework a savage 110 and am needing some suggestions on a quality one piece pic rail. The action is round on the front and flat on the back. Any help would be great! Thanks in advance!

 

[spartan50]

I use MDT 40 MOA on savage .243 model 12, and NF 40 MOA on savage .260 model 12. I also like EGW as well can’t beat them for the money! I hope this helps? Good Luck!

 

[Thump_rrr]

Looking to rework a savage 110 and am needing some suggestions on a quality one piece pic rail. The action is round on the front and flat on the back. Any help would be great! Thanks in advance!

Do you have a picture of the action?
All of my Savage rifles are round both front and back as I recall.
Ken Farrell is what I would suggest.

I believe this is what you need.
Does it seem like a pre 1993?
https://www.kenfarrell.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=329

 

[Slides]

I bought a 40MOA rail for my 110 from Murphy precision.

 

[FredHammer]

I’d upgrade to 8/40 screws while you’re at it.

 

[BenW]

I used a steel rail from Nightforce and it’s been solid.

 

[spartan50]

When I get some time will gladly take it apart and get pictures for you. I agree with both above steel on NF and up grade to 8-40 on the screws!

 

[learjet]

about 10 years ago i built up a long action flat back savage, only base available then was EGW. fwiw i did need to bed the base

hth…

 

[Halfnutz]

Seekins Precision.

 

[loveha]

Have a rail from Murphy Precision for a flat back Savage Model 10 I made into a 300WSM and it's been rock solid. Very nicely machined. Also have a EGW on a Henry 45-70 without issue. The Murphy is nicer I feel, but can't go wrong with either.

 

[Hobo_Steve]

Thanks for all replies! I’m going with the Murphy Precision. One more question, you mention upgrading to #8 screws. While I’m not opposed to that and definitely see benefits, is that a diy job or something I’m going to want a smith to do?

 

[loveha]

Don't know on the screws. If it requires drilling the current threads and tapping. I would say a smith, or at least a machine shop to make sure it's tapped straight. I just used whatever was supplied and haven't had issues.

 

[FredHammer]

Thanks for all replies! I’m going with the Murphy Precision. One more question, you mention upgrading to #8 screws. While I’m not opposed to that and definitely see benefits, is that a diy job or something I’m going to want a smith to do?

With existing holes, it's not all that difficult. The depth isn't all that great. The bit of a cordless drill centers in the hole and you would have to want to screw up to get an oblong hole. Always run the tap by hand with some oil. Slow is smooth kinda thing. I've done 3 receivers this way.

Starting fresh, uncut receiver...100% smith/machine shop in a drill press.

 

[Halfnutz]

Thanks for all replies! I’m going with the Murphy Precision. One more question, you mention upgrading to #8 screws. While I’m not opposed to that and definitely see benefits, is that a diy job or something I’m going to want a smith to do?

I would take it to a Smith and have it done properly if you must have No8. I wouldn't waste the money on it unless you are brutally hard on your shit.

 

[chevy_man]

I would take it to a Smith and have it done properly if you must have No8. I wouldn't waste the money on it unless you are brutally hard on your shit.

This.

It's not necessary 99% of the time.


I do have an 8-40 tap after my sister launched a gun out of the truck. That receiver is still going with 8-40 screws holding the scope base on. For what it's worth the screws pulled the threads out of the action, which was wild to me that they didn't just break.

 

[Slides]

If you clean the action well you can use loctite mounting compound on both the screws and the interface of action and rail as well. The factory rail on my 110 shook loose.