Savage 12 upgrades

[Laceygm]

I have a Savage model 12 in 6.5CM. The rifle consistently shoots half inch 5 end groups at 100yards with hand loads.
I put a Choate stock on a few months ago, and am very happy with the upgrade.
I am ready to take another step with it. The rifle has the Savage Acuteigger, and the factory barrel has 900 rounds on it. Where should I put my money next? Trigger or barrel?
I currently am just shooting for the hell of it. No competition or hunting, just paper and steel.

Thanks

 

[Rstrick0352]

I have a Savage model 12 in 6.5CM. The rifle consistently shoots half inch 5 end groups at 100yards with hand loads.
I put a Choate stock on a few months ago, and am very happy with the upgrade.
I am ready to take another step with it. The rifle has the Savage Acuteigger, and the factory barrel has 900 rounds on it. Where should I put my money next? Trigger or barrel?
I currently am just shooting for the hell of it. No competition or hunting, just paper and steel.

Thanks

Your rifle is already shooting quite well so maybe your money is better spent elsewhere; optic maybe. But, with your two options I say arrel. And my vote is X-Caliber. I have 4 and they’re all fantastic.

Of note, I have replaced an accutrigger with the Timney replacement which is a fine trigger but not enough of an improvement to warrant the cost. Now the timney replacement for the old three screw triggers is a different story though I have also tuned factory three screw triggers to be very fine as well.

 

[EM92wx]

Put your money into the barrel and learn how to adjust and use the Accutrigger. Its not bad, however there are not many selections as other rifles. Replace the barrel and sell the old one.

 

[Steel head]

Get a target spring from gunshack and get a nice prefit when your current barrel dies.

 

[Backcountryguy]

I’d replace the trigger first. You’re probably somewhere around the halfway point of life expectancy in your factory barrel for acceptable accuracy

 

[Foul Mike]

What is your complaint as to how the barrel is shooting?
I would save my $$ for a new barrel for when this one goes shithouse and have it on hand or,
I also would also consider the optics as Rstrick suggested. What do you have now?
What do you have for a muzzle brake? That is another thought.
When I have a rifle that shoots 5 into 1/2 inch at 100 I am happy.

Two thoughts come to mind for me-
One is, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." the other is The Good Hardon Rule.

How do you keep a good hardon? Don't Fuck with it.
If you swap out the barrel, send it to me, I will finish it off. Regards, FM

 

[101stinfantry]

Ok, unless your just wanting to upgrade a piece at a time..............don't do it. By the time your done you could have bought a really nice rifle. How do I know?

I'll never get my money back out of it, it does shoot pretty good though.

 

[Laceygm]

Your rifle is already shooting quite well so maybe your money is better spent elsewhere; optic maybe. But, with your two options I say arrel. And my vote is X-Caliber. I have 4 and they’re all fantastic.

Of note, I have replaced an accutrigger with the Timney replacement which is a fine trigger but not enough of an improvement to warrant the cost. Now the timney replacement for the old three screw triggers is a different story though I have also tuned factory three screw triggers to be very fine as well.

What is your complaint as to how the barrel is shooting?
I would save my $$ for a new barrel for when this one goes shithouse and have it on hand or,
I also would also consider the optics as Rstrick suggested. What do you have now?
What do you have for a muzzle brake? That is another thought.
When I have a rifle that shoots 5 into 1/2 inch at 100 I am happy.

Two thoughts come to mind for me-
One is, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." the other is The Good Hardon Rule.

How do you keep a good hardon? Don't Fuck with it.
If you swap out the barrel, send it to me, I will finish it off. Regards, FM

No complaint with it now, just looking to make a good thing better. Current barrel is 26” not threaded so I don’t have a break on it. I’d i change Barrel I will get one threaded so I have the option of a break.
I currently have a Vortex PST gen 2.
I am planning to work it up a piece at a time, may not really be necessary, just like to play with it to see if I can make it better.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Your rifle is already shooting quite well so maybe your money is better spent elsewhere; optic maybe. But, with your two options I say arrel. And my vote is X-Caliber. I have 4 and they’re all fantastic.

Of note, I have replaced an accutrigger with the Timney replacement which is a fine trigger but not enough of an improvement to warrant the cost. Now the timney replacement for the old three screw triggers is a different story though I have also tuned factory three screw triggers to be very fine as well.

I concur with the part about how it's shooting good already and not going about messing with success.

I also think a good optic can improve the rifle's utility; but I'm not talking about pricey precision optics. I'm trying for something (perhaps...) a bit more practical.

Of late, I've been experimenting with the Bushnell AR Drop Zone BDC optics. I have them on several bolt guns, including a Mossberg MVP 223, and a pair of Savage 11VT's; a 223 and a 308. I also added a 308 to my 20" PSA PA-10, and am thinking about getting a few 308's for my 6.5 Grendel Uppers, since so much of the internet buzz suggests that (at least out to 400yd) the 123gr 6.5 Grendels shoot pretty much the same trajectory.

My 11VT's are identically configured, except for the scopes and chamberings, and I suspect they also have the same Choate Stocks as you mention. I've added Choate LOP extenders and Hawkeye adjustable cheek rests.

Lately, BDC versions have appeared for the 6.5 CM, as well. The prices on them are not bad at all. They use a side focus/parallax, which I also like.

After zeroing, and at known distances, one can rattle off hits at 100yd, 200yd, and 300yd quickly. I'm hitting the three distances on steel in well under 1 minute, and sometimes under 30 seconds. If I had steel all the way out to 60, I'd expect they'd be covered, too; but I'd be a bit less hasty. I use a 600yd LRF, and although I haven't used it yet for this exact application (except for the Mossberg), it's not a stretch.

It likes particular loads, but they're ones I like anyway; 223 55-62gr, 308 168gr.

Anyway; I believe it's worth suggesting.

Greg

 

[CaptNemo]

You could do what i did with my 12LRP:
Forego spending anymore money on it, knowing that it was money lost never to be recouped and bought a Tikka CTR.
It’s a much better rifle, 100X smoother the aftermarket is there as far as chassis, barrels and triggers.
Find someone to let you shoot one and make the decision for yourself.

 

[MakeSawdust]

The Savage can be made to run smoothly and effectively. If you like to tinker and save money it is worth the time. If you do not get enjoyment from tinkering it is a never ending hellhole of frustration. I bolted together a comp rifle out of used parts and a Savage action for under $1000. After I spent a season fighting it, it ran really well this year. Then the sear wore out and the trigger would slam fire and I broke the firing pin. For a high volume comp rifle they can be a headache, but it got me into the game on a teacher's salary. After getting serious about the shooting game I am going to bolt some parts to a TL3. I will never sell the Savage. My guess is, IF I could find a buyer I would get back maybe half of my money. I'm going to save it for a backup gun. Again, if you like to tinker they are a bargain (where I started). If you like to shoot they are a bitch (where I am now).

 

[Steel head]

The Savage can be made to run smoothly and effectively. If you like to tinker and save money it is worth the time. If you do not get enjoyment from tinkering it is a never ending hellhole of frustration. I bolted together a comp rifle out of used parts and a Savage action for under $1000. After I spent a season fighting it, it ran really well this year. Then the sear wore out and the trigger would slam fire and I broke the firing pin. For a high volume comp rifle they can be a headache, but it got me into the game on a teacher's salary. After getting serious about the shooting game I am going to bolt some parts to a TL3. I will never sell the Savage. My guess is, IF I could find a buyer I would get back maybe half of my money. I'm going to save it for a backup gun. Again, if you like to tinker they are a bargain (where I started). If you like to shoot they are a bitch (where I am now).

A common savage story.

 

[EastCOYotes]

I also have a Savage model 12 that shoots absolutely lights out. I put the CDI precision gunworks DBM in mine to use AICS mags and it has been a good upgrade for me.

An adjustable cheek riser would be nice as well if that’s something you don’t have

I also got my barrel threaded and put a thunderbeast brake on it so I can shoot it suppressed and that was money well spent also.

 

[goosed]

The Savage can be made to run smoothly and effectively. If you like to tinker and save money it is worth the time. If you do not get enjoyment from tinkering it is a never ending hellhole of frustration. I bolted together a comp rifle out of used parts and a Savage action for under $1000. After I spent a season fighting it, it ran really well this year. Then the sear wore out and the trigger would slam fire and I broke the firing pin. For a high volume comp rifle they can be a headache, but it got me into the game on a teacher's salary. After getting serious about the shooting game I am going to bolt some parts to a TL3. I will never sell the Savage. My guess is, IF I could find a buyer I would get back maybe half of my money. I'm going to save it for a backup gun. Again, if you like to tinker they are a bargain (where I started). If you like to shoot they are a bitch (where I am now).

The Savage sear is a thick chunk of steel (see photo) for the loads exerted on it. How did you wear it out???

 

[MakeSawdust]

The gun I was running as an on the cheap match gun had: the extractor detent replaced with a larger one, a ptg bolt head, dual ejectors, the lower ejector lengthened, ran a 110 ba ejector spring in the lower and the regular one in the upper ejector to get 99.9% reliability. It ran cdi bottom metal in an hs precision stock. I also ran a Witt machine clamp on muzzle brake. I had plans to put a cheek riser on it, but was just running it with a piece of foam and a stock pack. I ran a Criterion prefit barrel. The best thing I did to make the action run smoother is to learn how it worked and "fix" some of the issues. You can make a bolt lift kit with a ball bearing and a cut down .38 special case. The most effective thing I did to help the heavy bolt lift was to read the directions for the Nat Lambeth bolt lift kit. He describes how to get rid of the "burr" on the cocking ramp. After that, set the firing pin protrusion to .035-.040" and set the firing pin fall to .250". Polish all of the parts that move when you cock the action. Cycle it a few thousand times and you'll have a pretty smooth action. It won't be Impact smooth, but it will be unbelievably good for a Savage.

I honestly enjoy tinkering with things and realise that some here will think I went to crazy lengths to get the thing to function well. When tinkering stopped being fun as when it wasn't working, and I wanted to be shooting matches instead of tinkering.

Have fun

 

[65x55guy]

Worst decision I’ve made to date was selling a Savage model 11 cabelas special with heavy barrel that shot .5-.75 with almost any load. Got rid of it and 2-3 other rifles to buy a desert tech SRS. Love the new rifle, but I only got $450 or so for the Savage when selling. Should have waited 2 more months, saved another $450, and kept my excellent budget rifle as a backup to my SRS.

don’t mess with a rifle that shoots. If you need an optic, buy one. But you are getting great performance out of your rig then it’s fine as is. Spend time shooting it and zero time reading forums from people hypothesizing about how to marginally improve a .5 MOA rifle to .4.

 

[MakeSawdust]

The Savage sear is a thick chunk of steel (see photo) for the loads exerted on it. How did you wear it out???

I dryfired the action at least 10k times and shot 6000 rounds of live ammo through it. I replaced every trigger part except the sear (Savage has changed there stance, and I can't sign a waiver and get all the parts anymore). The engagement surface on the sear is noticably worn and it won't hold on hard bolt close until the trigger is well into the 2.5# range. It is a varmint trigger model and functioned very well at 1.5# until the last 500 rds or so, then I started having problems. With the safety in the middle of the trigger it didn't actually fire, but it still wouldn't stay cocked if I ran the bolt hard. Had no problems until recently.

 

[NamibHunter]

Your rifle is already shooting quite well so maybe your money is better spent elsewhere; optic maybe. But, with your two options I say arrel. And my vote is X-Caliber. I have 4 and they’re all fantastic.

Of note, I have replaced an accutrigger with the Timney replacement which is a fine trigger but not enough of an improvement to warrant the cost. Now the timney replacement for the old three screw triggers is a different story though I have also tuned factory three screw triggers to be very fine as well.

Have to agree: Target accutrigger is not a Triggertech Diamond or a Biggs and Andy, but it is mighty fine for a factory trigger.

I have a Model 12 and it shot 0.25” to 0.4” groups with the factory barrel. One of the best factory rifles i ever owned.
I would not replace the trigger.

Buy a large batch of Lapua brass, weight sort if you are so inclined, or at least cull the outliers, and your groups will almost certainly shrink by 30%.

Then invest in good bullets. Berger Hybrid, Lapua Scenar, Hornady A-tip, or splurge and try some of Bob Cauterucio’s bullets. Not cheap, but it has won many a tournament.

Found this on a forum, might be out of date: Bob Cauterucio
650-583-1550

 

[NamibHunter]

I dryfired the action at least 10k times and shot 6000 rounds of live ammo through it. I replaced every trigger part except the sear (Savage has changed there stance, and I can't sign a waiver and get all the parts anymore). The engagement surface on the sear is noticably worn and it won't hold on hard bolt close until the trigger is well into the 2.5# range. It is a varmint trigger model and functioned very well at 1.5# until the last 500 rds or so, then I started having problems. With the safety in the middle of the trigger it didn't actually fire, but it still wouldn't stay cocked if I ran the bolt hard. Had no problems until recently.

Good to know. Mine has around 4,000 cycles and still works very well. If/When it becomes unreliable, i will swap it out.

 

[TxWelder35]

I have a 260 Rem 12 LRP that shoots lights out 1/2" groups are easy at 100. Action has a bolt lift kit, action and surfaces have been polished, action gone through, etc. Action is crazy smooth. I've felt a big horn, defiance, and an APR action and still prefer the way this one feels. I'll never sell this gun.

That being said the guy I bought it from sold me a x-caliber 6.5cm barrel with it. I had the intention of putting it on but I'm too far down the 260 rabbit hole to switch now. Large shank savage prefit, 24". Let me know if you are interested in it.

 

[Steel head]

I have a 260 Rem 12 LRP that shoots lights out 1/2" groups are easy at 100. Action has a bolt lift kit, action and surfaces have been polished, action gone through, etc. Action is crazy smooth. I've felt a big horn, defiance, and an APR action and still prefer the way this one feels. I'll never sell this gun.

That being said the guy I bought it from sold me a x-caliber 6.5cm barrel with it. I had the intention of putting it on but I'm too far down the 260 rabbit hole to switch now. Large shank savage prefit, 24". Let me know if you are interested in it.

 

[OLD308]

I got suckered into a stupid good deal on a Savage. 1 year latter I had enough money in it to have built a real rifle. Now I’m stuck with a rifle I can’t get 25% of that money out of it. Still feels like a Savage (horrid bolt lift) even after all the work. Good thing it’s a shooter.

Spend your money on a class to increase your abilities. That will go father than what a new barrel or trigger does. Or, save your money for a higher quality rifle. Not that any custom rifle has a good resale, but a built up Savage has about zero. Hope this helps.

 

[NamibHunter]

I got suckered into a stupid good deal on a Savage. 1 year latter I had enough money in it to have built a real rifle. Now I’m stuck with a rifle I can’t get 25% of that money out of it. Still feels like a Savage (horrid bolt lift) even after all the work. Good thing it’s a shooter.

Spend your money on a class to increase your abilities. That will go father than what a new barrel or trigger does. Or, save your money for a higher quality rifle. Not that any custom rifle has a good resale, but a built up Savage has about zero. Hope this helps.

Fair point: A customized Savage (or even a Rem 700) can consume a lot of money if you do the all the possible upgrades, and you will never get your money back when you sell. So try to avoid over investing. [Don’t build the gold colored 600 hp street racing Honda Civic, and then try to sell it after 60,000 miles! ?]

Have to agree that a good training course has a better return on investment than any rifle system upgrade, or any piece of reloading equipment.

 

[NamibHunter]

Anybody has any experience to share on using a Savage bolt lift kit? Is it a job for a gun smith or can a moderately handy person do it on their own and get a good result?

 

[OLD308]

Moderate handy person can do it. Throw the instructions out the window. Take the point off the hole in the bolt, retain the angle. Polish everything you can get your hands on.

Did it make the bolt lift easier, yes. Is it still the worst felling action of any bolt gun in the history of man, yes. Not worth the time to me. I questioned my instillation so I took it to a Savage nut I know. He said he never uses them as the effort is not worth the return.

FYI the rifle is a shooter and after shorting it, it is a very handy packer. So not Savage hater or bolt action elitist. Just a very reluctant purchaser that will never do it again.

 

[Big Bo]

WOW! I have 2 Savage rifles, mod 10 308 and a mod 12 .223. When I purchased them it was because of price, and the accuracy of these rifles. Are they as smooth as my Tikka CTR, heck no. Is the accutrigger the best, no. The guns shoot! And shoot with accuracy. I have shot a best 1/2" with the 308, and with Winchester WB 45gr HP from WallyWorld the .223 shoots under 1/2" at 100 yards. The .223 has shot well under 1/2". A buddy wanted a .223 to take to the range. He saw how my gun shoots and joined the Savage family. His gun shoots lights out.

These guns just flat out shoot. That is why I purchased Savage. No regrets on my part. The guns do what I wanted from them, shoot accurately.

 

[Vodoun daVinci]

To the OP I'd leave the gun alone if it's shooting well and put the $ into better optics. I'm shooting a dolled up Savage and love it. The thing that helped me beat the super accurate gun right out of the box was to hand load and add good glass.

Savages are generally shooters right out of the box.

VooDoo

 

[HEnrI]

save your money and build off of the action when the barrel goes out!

 

[HEnrI]

Proof pre-fits are amazing on a savage action!