Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

[UNCIVILIZED]

Gent's, I'm more than a little curious about Savage Rifles of late. Especially due to how much their quick barrel change option is oft touted. What I'm wondering is if anyone's swapped a barrel in the field, with the most basic of tools.

Say you were to toss the following into your pack:
Barrel #2
Barrel Nut Wrench
Strap Wrench for barrel
Go/No-Go Gauges
Torque Wrench for reinstalling barreled action into stock, post barrel swap.

Theoretically you'd just put the nut wrench, & strap wrench in their respective places, twist, & poof. The barrel's now loose enough to spin off by hand... Or am I missing something important here?
- Plan B would be to have the barrel machined so that the first several inches at the breech end are hexagonal in profile. So that instead of a strap wrench, one could use a spanner instead.

Has anyone ever tried this specific method, or something akin there to? If so feedback would be great. Ditto on comments from others on the idea. Both good & bad.

And yeah, I know. I can easily make a barrel block to bolt to the bumper of my truck [in lieu of the above strap wrench]. But I really wanted to think outside the box as well as KISS. Plus I'm curious about Really putting this QD barrels thing to the test.

Thanks in advance, & if my description need some clarification, please say as much.

 

[Force_Multiplier]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

do I get to answer this time before you delete it?

 

[UNCIVILIZED]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

Yes, by all means, please do. I'd appreciate you sharing some wisdom with a Savage virgin - aka Me

 

[Force_Multiplier]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

here's what you need

1: extra barrel (or 5)
2: go gauge(s)
3: barrel nut wrench
4: action wrench (can be a strap wrench, homemade, etc)
5: hex bit and torque wrench for the action screws

you may WANT no-go gauge(s), and a torque wrench for the barrel nut wrench, but they're easy enough to live without, especially after you've done it a couple of times in the shop.

pop the barreled action out of the stock, put the action wrench on, loosen the barrel nut, unscrew the barrel...

insert the go gauge in the next barrel, screw on until it has engaged the extractor, adjust until you have a slight resistance when closing the bolt fully....

tighten barrel nut without allowing the barrel/action to move (leave the go gauge in, and don't crank on it too much)...

install barreled action back into stock, torque action screws...

rezero rifle and have fun

 

[coldboremiracle]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

I'm curious about your question, in what scenario would such a need arise?

 

[UNCIVILIZED]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

ColdBoreMiracle, I was thinking along the lines of Patrick Smith of Kifaru's "Rambling Rifles". Though there are currently other rigs out there where a barrel swap, done anywhere, is quicker than brewing a cup of java. Just look at the DTA.

Also, I've been on a few long hunts, where it'd have been nice to be able to augment our food supply by adding local wildlife to the pot. And that's kind of tough to do with a large'ish bore, high power, centerfire rifle. But if you can swap down to a lighter caliber...

And not that I've done it... yet. But if/when I go on a hunt in Alaska, it'd be nice to have a rifle which both takes down for stowage & travel [think bush planes], & is a snap to swap calibers in, depending on what one's hunting for. That & the rifle would be versatile enough to shoot whatever caliber(s) which you could scrounge, if you're way off the beaten path.

 

[coldboremiracle]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

I guess, but field changing a barrel on a hunting rifle seems just a little more intensive than necessary. I cant imagine a situation where you would need a difference in cartridge during the same hunt, as if one would go bear hunting in Alaska with a 338-06 and then after shooting the bear and before returning to camp you swap it out for a .270 to shoot a caribou. When one caliber would do it all. Not that there is a problem with shooting multiple calibers, it just seems like a lot of unneeded work, tools, and barrels to carry around.

I have and love a DTA SRS, with three barrels easily changed in a minute or less, I plan a trip, select a barrel, put it in and go. On hunting trips I always bring an extra barrel/bolt, JUST in case something should happen, but it's really not that necessary.

 

[fdkay]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

The problem with your scenario is this.

You must remove the scope. You will likely have to remove the scope base.

You will definitely have to remove the front base if it protrudes over the barrel nut.

Your not going to maintain zero that way, besides the scope wouldn't be zero'ed for both cartridges.

 

[Mike0341]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

i always wonder if it would be possible to weld the barrel locking nut to the barrel once you had the head spacing you needed. that way you could just pull the barrel off and put it back on and it would in theory go right back to where you wanted it once tightened down enough. would basically be able to build a break down rifle and you wouldn't need as many tools.

of course this is theoretical and in no way proven possible that i know of.

 

[Ranger413]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

I love my Savage rifles, but swapping barrels on one action is not something that I'm too teribbly turned on with. At least not with this action. I do like them for the DIY aspect, but I don't see barrel swapping during a hunt a realistic option.

For hunting purposes, such as a trip to Alaska, I'd suggest a T/C Encore. While it is only a single shot, it does offer the ability to shoot anything from a .22 rimfire (with adapter) to whatever you can dream of. You can even swap from 12 gauge to in-line muzzleloader. Add to that swapability the fact that your scopes stay mounted to the barrel and there's really no need to re-zero.

I've outfitted myself with an Encore and three barrels - 209X50 muzzleloader, .223, and .308. My son has the Contender, Encore's little brother in .22 l.r. and 6.8 SPC.

 

[smokebomb]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

I also do not see a particular need...but if you wanted to anyways it could be accomplished fairly easy with AN UNLOADED RIFLE and:
1-Ken farrel bases that dont extend past the receiver.
2-Remove scope
3-Remove stock
4-Use wheeler barrel nut wrench, engage barrel nut
5-Use rubber/brass mallet (used a baseball bat too, no joke) to give a few stern raps to the barrel nut wrench until barrel nut is loosened
6-loosen barrel nut
7-loosen barrel
8- select replacement barrel and inversely repeat above in reverse order, utilize go/no go gauges, and rezero.

Take care when tightening barrel nut to not spin barrel and change headspacing.
My savage barrels all had homemade scribe marks so I was certain of my alignment/orientation to receiver.

My friend tig welded his barrel nuts to the barrel once headspaced, didnt seem to have adverse effects on accuracy. I'd try it with a cheap barrel first though.

 

[jdgray]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I also do not see a particular need...but if you wanted to anyways it could be accomplished fairly easy with AN UNLOADED RIFLE and:
1-Ken farrel bases that dont extend past the receiver.
2-Remove scope
3-Remove stock
4-Use wheeler barrel nut wrench, engage barrel nut
5-Use rubber/brass mallet (used a baseball bat too, no joke) to give a few stern raps to the barrel nut wrench until barrel nut is loosened
6-loosen barrel nut
7-loosen barrel
8- select replacement barrel and inversely repeat above in reverse order, utilize go/no go gauges, and rezero.

Take care when tightening barrel nut to not spin barrel and change headspacing.
My savage barrels all had homemade scribe marks so I was certain of my alignment/orientation to receiver.

My friend tig welded his barrel nuts to the barrel once headspaced, didnt seem to have adverse effects on accuracy. I'd try it with a cheap barrel first though.

</div></div>
I still needed to remove my Ken Farrell base on a barrel swap. Used a Rem-Savage action wrench, maybe other options that could work without removing the base.

 

[seanh]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

If you want a swap bbl setup then build one such as the HS precision setup or, go with an AR-10, 15 base rifle.

you want to take game for the camp...get a .22LR such as a 10/22, 77/22, CZ455. You'll be able to take campfire game out past 100 yards.

 

[bmt]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

I vote AR System.

For camp meat/smallgame, get a 22lr dedicated upper.

BMT

 

[rusty815]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

I've done this before when I first went out to shoot my 110, heres what I used:

243 and 284 barrels
barrel nut wrench
243 and 284 go gauges
action wrench
assortment of other tools for removing barreled action/base

I have a two piece base on the rifle for now, so what I did was first take the action out of the stock, then remove the scope and front base, put the action wrench on the action and barrel nut wrench on the nut and loosened the nut (relatively easy with all the torque I can put on the action via the action wrench), screwed the barrel out, got the other barrel, put the go gauge in it, then screwed it on until the gauge hit the bolt face, then tightened the nut. It took me no more than 10 minutes to do this, and I was able to test both barrels for my 110 within minutes of each other at the range. Once you get used to swapping barrels, it becomes a bit addicting.

 

[smokebomb]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

These ken farrell bases do not have to be removed. Just the scope.
Any of the extended bases would pose problems with a circumferating wrench.

 

[UNCIVILIZED]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

With that Farrell Base setup, can you not loosen things sufficently with: the barrel nut wrench, along with a strap wrench on the barrel just in front of the of barrel nut wrench?
Cannot the strap wrench just take the place of bolting the barrel into a barrel block/into the vise?

How about by using: the barrel nut wrench, in conjunction with an internal action wrench like the Surgeon or similar ones used on Remingtons? Surgeon Action Wrench

Although yeah, having a vise/fixed barrel block when pulling a barrel would make things a lot more stable. And hugely decrease the risk of doing any damage to the barrel or action during the process.
For me, this question has been largely hypothetical. Although going on a hunt where you want 2 different calibers is a lot easier with a switch barrel rifle vs. lugging 2 rifles around.

 

[jdgray]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

C2, what did you hold the action with? Not this..

 

[jipper74]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

This might give you some ideas on barrel swapping.

http://www.longrangehunting.com/articles/savage-model-12-and-112-review-1.php

 

[PowerstrokeOBX]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

Wouldnt be easier to go nutless? Just screw it in torque it down and roll.

 

[UNCIVILIZED]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

PowerstrokeOBX, in answer to your question. Yes, most likely it would. Although you'd lose the ability to set your own headspacing. Which is a nice perk, so that you can set up your chamber to your desires.
Especially if you want to, say, set up a magnum so that it essentially headspaces on the shoulder & not the belt. Which also is going to increase your brass life, magnum or not. And likely your rifle's accuracy as well. Setting the chamber length (nice & snug) I mean.
And if my thinking's off on this, someone please correct me

.

 

[Masked]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: UNCIVILIZED</div><div class="ubbcode-body">PowerstrokeOBX, in answer to your question. Yes, most likely it would. Although you'd lose the ability to set your own headspacing. Which is a nice perk, so that you can set up your chamber to your desires.
Especially if you want to, say, set up a magnum so that it essentially headspaces on the shoulder & not the belt. Which also is going to increase your brass life, magnum or not. And likely your rifle's accuracy as well. Setting the chamber length (nice & snug) I mean.
And if my thinking's off on this, someone please correct me

. </div></div>

Actually, ^^ is one of the reasons I went with my Savage build over a 700 etc...

Changing a Savage barrel is a lot like riding a bike...First time you're going to make a few mistakes but, once you get it down, you're good to go.

If you end up with a long action, you can also change the bolt "face" to match different calibers and voila, you now have a multi-caliber rifle that's hot-swappable in under 15 minutes.

 

[aubie515]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

There is a guy over on Savage Shooters that made a tool that holds the action in place so he doesn't have to remove optics/base. Neat tool, but I don't think most of us need it.

I agree with the guys that are questioning the OPs "logic" for having the need to swap out a barrel for a hunting trip.

I know I'm not going to be dragging around a vice to hold my action block onto. If I need another caliber, I'd sooner just bring a backup/spare rifle.

 

[tyrex13]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

Here are a few thoughts.

First, any plane that will take you to a remote hunting location in Alaska will take your rifle no problem. It's usually gonna be a Super Cub or 180 sized plane and they have plenty of space for a long gun. The extra 10 pounds of tools an equipment is going to be a bigger deal then the length of your rifle. That's 10 pounds of food, clothing and ammo that you're going to have to leave at home and when you're looking at a 100 pound base camp limit it's just not practical.

Second, I get your idea of shooting something lighter, but if that's important to you why not just dial up a lighter load? Just cause a 300WM can push 180gr bullets at 3,500 FPS doesn't mean it needs to to make it out of the end of the barrel. Just use a lighter bullet, and make it subsonic if you want.

Thirdly, pick the right caliber and you can hunt everything up here and in NA. I use a 300WM from yotes to brown bear. If you do a fly out up here it's going to be for deer, caribou, moose or bear. Guys use anything from a 7mm-08 to 375H&H to get that done, the most popular being 300 and 338 WM. No need to over think the caliber, just hit it in the boiler room.

Obligatory pics from this years hunts..

 

[Ouch!!]

Re: Savage Barrel Changes in The Field /On the Hunt

Man a big grizzly would be awesome to mount and have in the living room.