Savage barrel swap completed

[Highpoint]

Got my criterion 7mm08 rem, 26" long, 1"diameter muzzle in the mail today, and 45 minutes later I was done. Very simple to swap barrels.

This rifle started out as a savage model 12 vlp 22-250 rem 1-9 twist. And upgraded to a H-S Precision tactical stock in urban camo last year

What do you think?
Old barrel

removal

New barrel

Finished

 

[Highpoint]

Re: Savage barrel swap completed

Question, those of you that interchange between barrels on a savage action, when you swap barrels and then swap back. do you have to do load development over again or is the tried and true pet load still produce good groups?

I am not really planing on going back to the 22-250rem but the barrel is in good shape and I have lots of good handloads left on the shelf.

 

[BoilerUP]

Re: Savage barrel swap completed

I might be interested in the 9 twist 22-250 tube if you decide to get rid of it...

 

[aubie515]

Re: Savage barrel swap completed

Swapping barrels is pretty fast...I can do it in around 20 minutes. I am sure you will be happy with your results. You should not have to redo your loads once you have a load that works for you.

 

[Highpoint]

Re: Savage barrel swap completed

How much is the factory varmint contour fluted 22-250 rem 1-9 twist, 26" long tube worth with 750 rds through it?

 

[Nefariousd]

Re: Savage barrel swap completed

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HighPoint</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Question, those of you that interchange between barrels on a savage action, when you swap barrels and then swap back. do you have to do load development over again or is the tried and true pet load still produce good groups?

</div></div>

In my experience, I've seen negligible changes in accuracy, that could easily be written off to shooter error.

When I switch barrels I'm pretty careful to head space as close as possible to where it was when I took it off in the first place. Not scientific grade precision here, mind you, just that the barrel ends up in the same position and the bolt closes the same distance on the no go gauge as it did when I took it off. I'm sure everybody does this , but I thought I'd mention it.

 

[trailrider121]

Re: Savage barrel swap completed

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Nefariousd</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HighPoint</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Question, those of you that interchange between barrels on a savage action, when you swap barrels and then swap back. do you have to do load development over again or is the tried and true pet load still produce good groups?

</div></div>

In my experience, I've seen negligible changes in accuracy, that could easily be written off to shooter error.

When I switch barrels I'm pretty careful to head space as close as possible to where it was when I took it off in the first place. Not scientific grade precision here, mind you, just that the barrel ends up in the same position and the bolt closes the same distance on the no go gauge as it did when I took it off. I'm sure everybody does this , but I thought I'd mention it. </div></div>


Nefariousd,

Very good point on Savage barrel removal on switching back and forth. try to set head space as close to possible and take notes. I've been pretty lucky with sing the same loads when switching back and forth.

 

[Highpoint]

Re: Savage barrel swap completed

When I set the headspace I set it with a go gauge and the go gauge with a piece of tape on the end of it. I screwed the barrel down on the go gauge and tightened it down, inserted go gauge with tape and tried closing the bolt. It was really tight but I could force the bolt down. Is this correct or should I not be able to force it closed?

 

[VjjR]

Re: Savage barrel swap completed

From what I understand the difference between the go and the no-go is 2 pieces of scotch tape... (without precision measuring instruments) so as long as it cant close with two pieces of tape on the go gauge your safe. I would try that to be sure.

 

[Highpoint]

Re: Savage barrel swap completed

Two pieces was really hard to get it to close, it took a whole lot of pressure to get the bolt down. For a minute I thought it wasnt going to close, when I finally got it down and back up , you could see where the tape was compleatly crushed flat to the guage. That should be good right? Or should it be where it will not close at all?

 

[AXEMAN]

Re: Savage barrel swap completed

one piece of real scotch tape, not the cheap knock off stuff. and if you force it, you are usually just scraping the tape off. but i set it with the GO, add tape and then i should not be able to close it like i did with the GO. sure i can force it and mash the tape, but that defeats the purpose. here you go

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AXEMAN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">it was from youtube. thats the video i used to do mine

<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/KICBv-0U87Y"></param> <param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/KICBv-0U87Y" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"> </embed></object> </div></div>

and a NO-GO isnt that much either

 

[BoilerUP]

Re: Savage barrel swap completed

Do NOT force the bolt closed with a no-go (or go with 1 piece of scotch tape). Bolt should close easily on the Go, and not want to close on the No-Go.

 

[Nefariousd]

Re: Savage barrel swap completed

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AXEMAN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
NO-GO isnt that much either </div></div>

I kinda saw it like this:

If I got a steel thing, it would retain dimension better than a plastic thing (tape). I have no Idea how much difference a few thousandths makes, but in terms of repeatability I figured the $25 or whatever was worth the money. Besides it was a .308 head space gauge and most of the cartridges I use are based on that case (.243,.260, 7-08, etc) so it will serve in many circumstances (can you believe I do this to not have to buy new shell holders and body dies, yet think nothing of the fact that I have 8 NXS's? Ok I'm strange I admit it

)

 

[flyboy]

Re: Savage barrel swap completed

Welcome to the 7-08 Club. You'll like it alot.

 

[VjjR]

Re: Savage barrel swap completed

Yea i bought a no-go too. they're cheap enough its worth it.

 

[Shootinsurveyor]

Re: Savage barrel swap completed

I have to admit the set of guages I have played a big part into switching to a 243 from a 308 instead of a 6.5x47. Not to mention cost of dies and factory ammo

 

[mwroseberry]

Re: Savage barrel swap completed

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HighPoint</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Question, those of you that interchange between barrels on a savage action, when you swap barrels and then swap back. do you have to do load development over again or is the tried and true pet load still produce good groups?

I am not really planing on going back to the 22-250rem but the barrel is in good shape and I have lots of good handloads left on the shelf.

</div></div>

I keep a piece of spent brass from the first barrel configuration. I use that brass to headspace with when I go back to the old barrel. Works every time and I'm never off more than .002" on my seating depths. Also welcome to the 7-08 club. You'll never need that old barrel again once you shoot that 7mm-08 in the wind past 900yards.

.

Good luck,
Merritt

 

[spaniel]

Re: Savage barrel swap completed

I created a "set-to" gauge by grinding a no-go gauge to a length in between that and a "go" gauge, and that is what I use to set the barrel. I cannot tell any difference in accuracy when swapping.