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Gunsmithing Savage Bedding Project

RTO

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Dec 3, 2010
284
0
stl mo
www.accuracyaddiction.com
So I thought I would share a bedding project I just did for a Savage since most of what we see is bedding for Remmys. Please feel free to share any other tips or comments as I am not saying this is the best or only way to do it. This is just the way I do it and what has worked for me. I am always up for comments or suggestions.
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In the recoil lug cutout area I ground out some of the plastic to expose and get a good bond to the aluminum below the thin layer of plastic.

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To keep a good clearance for the savage barrel nut, I cut 1/4 of the masking tape off and wrapped about 4-5 layers around the barrel nut so that there would be plenty of clearance and make it easier on cleanup
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This is a choate stock and there was about a 1/4" gap that I used modelling clay here to keep the devcon from running underneath and reducing cleanup later

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The rear strip of masking tape is used as a marker to give me an idea of where to position the rear of the tang when setting the action in.
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The two pieces of masking tape that are sticking into the barrel channel here are another marker for me that I cut the tape accross the barrel to help me line up to get the action screws in place when dropping the action in the stock. I like the marker in the front and rear as it really helps me get a good line on exactly where I need to be when I drop the action in.
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I figured I would show what it looks like before I put it in the mill for cleanup. This is result of just removing the action from the stock. No cleanup has been done in this photo. Notice in front of the recoil lug the indention from the extra layers of masking tape giving me a little extra clearance for the barrel nut.
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Re: Savage Bedding Project

I would like to add that I did not bed from the rear action screw back. This is partly why I wanted to post a bedding job for a savage. IMO a Savage should have the rear of the action bolt and tang completely floated. I have tried several different options partially bedding a little behind the rear action bolt, floating behind the rear action bolt and the tang, and free floating everything behind the rear action bolt. IMHO and experience I have obtained the best accuracy out of a Savage from free floating behind rear action bolt back.
 
Re: Savage Bedding Project

You are spot on by floating the tang, from what I have found they dont like contact back there. I have built up a bit of Marine Tex and made a complete bed around the rear action screw it works good. You just have to modify the trigger for room, its very easy. Nice job.
 
Re: Savage Bedding Project

You did a really good job. I've recently bedded a Rem700 in a A5 and a Savage 10 in a Manners MCT. The Rem bed job was a 6 of 10 difficulty level while the Savage was an 8 of 10. Takes more planning and getting the mag housing of the receiver was a pain. I'm hoping to get to the range tomorrow to see how much it helped as the stock and bedding on the Rem 5R helped tighten groups substantially.
 
Re: Savage Bedding Project

Since it had the aluminum v block and you bedded it, does that mean that the action will no longer contact the vblock?

I see where you roughed up the aluminum so the bedding compound would stick to it. I had thought about this if I purchased a stock with aluminum block. I was thinking of just drilling some small holes in the block so the compound would have something to hang on to. And would allow the action to still center up in the block. I have only bedded one gun so I really have no Idea.
 
Re: Savage Bedding Project

SST04, it may contact the aluminum in a place or two as the bedding fills in everything around the vblock to give you total uniformity to the action. I really am not concerned if there ends up being a place on the aluminum exposed or not. All stocks are going to be a little different and you may run into one that has a few high points exposed or you may get total coverage, as long as you have enough bedding in place to allow the action to push out the excess and not have any gaps it should be good. Its better to use to much than not enough. I just rough up the aluminum with a foredom to get it really coarse and have something to bond to, I did drill some really shallow holes so the bedding could grab a few places but I really havent needed to drill any holes before as it bonds quite well as long as you really degrease it well.
 
Re: Savage Bedding Project

remember when you drill holes to use a tooth pick, q-tip stick or something to push the epoxy into the holes too. you did exactly as i did on my HS and its got a contoured block. good job

sst04, look at a few pictures in the bedding threads in the smithing section and you will see that there is a spot on most pillars thats just the bare aluminum and if its a V-block you will see two lines of contact all the way back along the bedding where the receiver makes direct contact