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Gunsmithing Savage bolt question

Re: Savage bolt question

Pretty typical. But with some time it should be less "tough" as you work the bolt more. You can also try a lift kit and a longer bolt handle. Both Sharp Shooter Supply or Stockad can help you. I believe the lift kit from Stockad is only a few dollars.
 
Re: Savage bolt question

$7.50 and you can make your own with a 38 case and a 5/32" ball bearing... pics coming

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cut the case evenly, plumb, flush or at a right angle is what im getting at, at about that line...then you have to secure the bearing in the primer pocket, super glue, jb weld. that goes into the cocking piece sleeve I BELIEVE...i havent gotten to install this yet. also you need to trim the bolt assembly screw by the amount that the case and bearing protrude out of the *cocking piece* again, i havent installed mine yet, but its the cocking piece sleeve that i think the case fits into.

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but that stiffness can be lessened some, but its the cocking of the mechanism that you feel. let me look for a link for you... here is a link to a page with tips on where to polish. i used 600 paper to polish mine
 
Re: Savage bolt question

if you want bottom metal, try CDI, Jeff will inlet the stock for $60, and sell you the bottom metal. i think you can even send the whole thing to him for install too. its well worth it when you get to that point.


one thing about the lift kit. you have to trim as much off the bolt assembly screw (BAS) as the case and ball bearing sticks out. it needs to be cut square. thats my only reservation in that process. try the polishing first. 600 grit wet/dry will work. just that alone made mine feel smoother. remember that what you are feeling is the cocking of the firing pin. thats always gonna be there. the lift reduces the contact area from two flat surfaces pivoting on eachother to just the tip of the bearing rotating on a flat surface. at least thats my understanding of how it works. i also had one guy say he drilled the primer pocket out and threaded the hole with the appropriate sized tap. he then used an allen/hex set screw with a rounded end and loctited it in place so the rounded end was set at a minimal protrusion, but enough to be the pivot point against the BAS. now all of this should be pretty close to how it works, i havent gotten that far yet and taken it all apart, but as it was explained, thats how everything should work.
 
Re: Savage bolt question

he had an fcp with hs stock,just like mine .he had replicated the catch that come on the factory savage mag,and then welded that peice onto the other magazines.the rifle looked neat with a 20 round fal mag in it.
 
Re: Savage bolt question

zman, if you want to go that route and you have a detachable mag already, try the 9 round mags from sharp shooters supply. if you dont have a detachable mag, try CDI. ITS SWEET!!


hey, also lightly lube your locking lugs. that may help
 
Re: Savage bolt question

it looked probably more simple than it probly was,he had a couple different ones,one was a savage mag with the bottom removed,and the mag body setting ontop of the fal mag,the other ones were just a smll bracket welded onto the fal mag.
 
Re: Savage bolt question

10-4 i just read it. Thanks man thats pretty good and to answer that question, yes you are suppose to trim the bas or i guess you could do the cocking sleeve the amount of the new height. nice job though, love the drill thing!