Savage Elite Precision feeding problems

[SlimySquirrel]

So good you got it solved.
I’ve had three Savage rifles over the years. Two second hand and one brand new Predator Hunter Max 1 that just refused to feed and some even had an issue where it would not fire if the trigger was not pulled exactly straight. And I mean EXACTLY.

I love the Savage platform but just can’t be bothered having to fix something from new.

 

[WilburForce]

I had the same exact problem with mine. I finally took it to a gunsmith, and he added a nice big chamfer to the chamber. Now the entrance to the barrel is beveled instead of flat, which you can clearly see in the picture. The neck of the rounds was getting hung up on that. You can see how adding the chamfer would fix that. I also have the most success with Accuracy International magazines with feed lips "tuned" to .385 inches. You can buy a feed lip tuner online. She cycles awesome now. If your rifle is like mine, you probably also have a bolt with a lot of play/slop in it. You can buy a custom size bolt for $99 at Pacific Tool & Gauge. (Don't buy a fluted one, though. It's a gimmick.) Just buy some pin gages on Amazon to get the exact size of your raceway diameter. Savage should be around .7 inches. My factory bolt was substantially less than that, which has to be expected on a cheap rifle. The size my bolt SHOULD be is exactly .701 inches. Hope this helps!!

 

[Capt. Doug]

I had the same issue with feeding problems when I received my 110 elite precision in .223. I sent it back to the factory and when I got it back it will feed the rounds okay but the bolt is hard to close and or open ! I have had some .223 rounds that were stuck in the chamber and when I got the bolt to the top of the throw I had to take a 2 x 4 and a hammer and whack the bolt handle (wood first) to get the round out of the chamber. I am having a fit with this rifle and I am afraid they opened the chamber and the cases are swelling and almost stuck in the chamber. I am shooting .223 OTMHP Hornady Black factory loads.
I called again today and got someone in customer service who is sending me a label to ship it back again.
I asked to be transferred to the Custom Shop and spoke to a lady who's name I will not reveal but I have talked to her 3 times and she said the rifle will handle .223 or 5.56. The barrel is not marked to show 5.56 so I asked her how the 110 Elite Precision was chambered to handle 2 different rounds with 2 different shoulders with the 5.56 having more pressure. I asked if it was a .223 Wylde which could cause accuracy problems in a bolt gun ! I asked if was to SAMMI specs. Her answer was that the chamber was cut to proprietary dimensions.
Gentlemen, I hope I posted this on the correct page as again I am new to site but I am a "lost ball in high weeds" on the problems with this so called "Elite Precision".
Today I put a once fired case of the same box of ammo in the magazine and fed it in the chamber and the bolt and the rifle didn't cock on an empty case. I then painted a round out of the same box of ammo with a black magic marker from the bullet tip past the shoulder. I put that round in the chamber fed through the magazine as I did the empty case and the rifle cocked and upon inspection I could not see one scratch on the blackened live round.
Does anyone have any idea what to try next other than shipping the rifle back to the factory ? COULD IT BE THE TIMING OF THE BOLT ???
Hope all are Safe and Healthy,
Capt. Doug

 

[AznTactical]

I had the same exact problem with mine. I finally took it to a gunsmith, and he added a nice big chamfer to the chamber. Now the entrance to the barrel is beveled instead of flat, which you can clearly see in the picture. The neck of the rounds was getting hung up on that. You can see how adding the chamfer would fix that. I also have the most success with Accuracy International magazines with feed lips "tuned" to .385 inches. You can buy a feed lip tuner online. She cycles awesome now. If your rifle is like mine, you probably also have a bolt with a lot of play/slop in it. You can buy a custom size bolt for $99 at Pacific Tool & Gauge. (Don't buy a fluted one, though. It's a gimmick.) Just buy some pin gages on Amazon to get the exact size of your raceway diameter. Savage should be around .7 inches. My factory bolt was substantially less than that, which has to be expected on a cheap rifle. The size my bolt SHOULD be is exactly .701 inches. Hope this helps!!

View attachment 7395223

Jim See's video made me think of you.

 

[Capt. Doug]

WilburForce, Thank you for all the info ! My rifle has smoothed out some but a friend bought the 110 Elite Precision in 6mm Creedmoor and he is having a fit with the same problem. I will certainly pass your information on to him and if I have further problems I will contact a qualified gunsmith as you suggest.
You didn't mention what caliber rifle you had purchased but I would assume it could be a problem with any or all calibers if this is standard manufacturing procedure for the 110 Savage Elite Precision.
Thanks Again and stay Safe and Healthy,
Capt. Doug

 

[Capt. Doug]

ArzTactical, Previous message was meant for you ! Again new to this site and still learning ! Sorry !!!

 

[straight-shooter]

New member here and just wanted to jump in here and say Thank You for the great information found in this thread. I have a recently acquired new Savage 110 Precision in 6.5 Creedmoor. I too was experiencing a hang up during bullet feed to the chamber. I took the advice given here and shortened the ejector .003 and radiused the edge. It now feed like butter either slow or fast on the bolt.

 

[esa17]

New member here and just wanted to jump in here and say Thank You for the great information found in this thread. I have a recently acquired new Savage 110 Precision in 6.5 Creedmoor. I too was experiencing a hang up during bullet feed to the chamber. I took the advice given here and shortened the ejector .003 and radiused the edge. It now feed like butter either slow or fast on the bolt.

This was just one of the issues plaguing my 110 elite precision. The first one I bought was sent back to Savage on my dine 6 days after taking ownership. It took them 3 months to decide to send me a new rifle.

The first thing I did was run a few mags through it and guess what: it would only feed 60% of the time on factory ammo.

On a whim I decided to swap out the beveled extractor from my 110 Desert Tactical that shoots like a dream and has never failed me. The beveled extractor was the trick but now the downside is my 110DT feeds like shit.

After all of this I’ve bought my last Savage product.

 

[straight-shooter]

After all of this I’ve bought my last Savage product.

That sad to hear being that's it's a few dollar part and cost me nothing to service it myself. If any problems ever arise the internet has saved my bacon numerous times. I figure knowledge is power and there's always someone out there sharing their experiences.

While I am confused as to why Savage uses these ejectors that aren't properly angled seeing how I know they have had numerous complaints. I would imagine they get these parts by the box full and can't take the time to finish them but if their going to tout a blue printed action then they should make sure everything else is buttery smooth.

Thankfully there are places like this forum to help and i can't think of a single pistol or rifle I own that i haven't done some polishing and tweaking.

 

[esa17]

That sad to hear being that's it's a few dollar part and cost me nothing to service it myself. If any problems ever arise the internet has saved my bacon numerous times. I figure knowledge is power and there's always someone out there sharing their experiences.

While I am confused as to why Savage uses these ejectors that aren't properly angled seeing how I know they have had numerous complaints. I would imagine they get these parts by the box full and can't take the time to finish them but if their going to tout a blue printed action then they should make sure everything else is buttery smooth.

Thankfully there are places like this forum to help and i can't think of a single pistol or rifle I own that i haven't done some polishing and tweaking.

It wasn’t just the part but it was contributory.

By trade I’m a jet pilot/mechanic who is solely responsible for my aircraft. When I sent my original rifle in I sent them a very detailed squawk list that included pictures, measurements and concise descriptions of each issue.

The gun was super accurate using factory ammo but it was essential a single shot rifle.

It cost me over $100 to send the rifle to them and about that much in ammo diagnosing the problems. Then, they kept giving me different information on the phone. I called once a week after the first month and a half. I’d sit on hold for 15-20min only to be told the same thing they said last week. Finally they told me I would be getting a replacement rifle and that took almost a month.

So I missed out on a summers worth of competition and training because they had $2,000 of my money tied up in that rifle.

That’s why I’ve bought my last Savage product.

 

[sobrbiker883]

Hate to bump an older post, but thank you Scott for your input in this one. I’ve been fighting the “round jumping higher than breech face” jam on my budget Axis build for going on two years and really only saw what was happening today. Some quick google-fu landed me on this thread-glad it did.
Trimmed and chamfered ejector, and now she feeds quick and easy.

 

[WillMo]

I'm new here, just joined and found the Forum searching for this very problem. I could see it was worthwhile joining already! I'm going to go devil it and see what it does! And I guess I'll also have to do it to the 110 Tactical I just bought for my girl for Christmas.

 

[AznTactical]

I guess I'll also have to do it to the 110 Tactical I just bought for my girl for Christmas.

Welcome! Don't do it to your 110 unless you have a problem. My 3 other Savages (12, FCP-SR & 10T) have zero issues.

 

[Randae26]

Same issue on my stealth evo 6.5 CM. Spent rounds wouldn't eject so I replaced the extractor, ejector, detent, and detent spring. After replacement, it would eject fine but now it would not feed. Changed out the ejector pin as suggested here and it works fine now. The new ejector was not beveled so I put the old on e back in since it was a spring issue not ejector itself. The OEM was a bit shorter than the new one but the OEM extended into the center of the spring. I do think part of the issue is that Savage could have increased the angle on the mag spring to give it a little more up angle and it would have been fine. I am a little disappointed Savage turns out guns with these known issues. Thanks for the help.

 

[Boogerchamp]

Had the same feed problems with a savage 110 switchback and an axis. Polished some material off of the ejector pin and presto. Problem solved. Axis had an aftermarket ejector and 110 had a factory ejector pin.

 

[Nics00ss]

I’ve got the same issue with my 110 6.5. Thanks for the info, I’ll give it a shot!

 

[Stoweit]

Wow, after reading this thread, it’s really sad that Savage’s QC is so bad. Seems the ejectors tend to be out of spec, and would be easy enough to send a new one out. Never thought much of them before, certainly never buy one now.

 

[esa17]

Wow, after reading this thread, it’s really sad that Savage’s QC is so bad. Seems the ejectors tend to be out of spec, and would be easy enough to send a new one out. Never thought much of them before, certainly never buy one now.

I don't think they're out of spec, I think they swapped ejector styles without telling anyone. Even if you call savage and tell them you need a replacement angled ejector it's a roll of the dice to see if you get the round one instead.

 

[demolitionman]

I am absolutely certain this is my Savage 110 LRP’s issue. Thank you guys. I can not wait to get off work tonight and do a bit of filing in the ejected plunger to see if she behave properly when running the bolt. The OP’s video describes exactly how mine behaves.

 

[demolitionman]

Ok. So I removed my bolt from my lrp 6.5 creed that has always had feeding from magazine issues and replaced it with a bolt from my .308. Fixed. I can run the bolt as hard as I want and quick and it runs great. Soooo up next is trying the ejector plunger bevel. Standing at the bench now working on this thing.

 

[AznTactical]

Ok. So I removed my bolt from my lrp 6.5 creed that has always had feeding from magazine issues and replaced it with a bolt from my .308. Fixed. I can run the bolt as hard as I want and quick and it runs great. Soooo up next is trying the ejector plunger bevel. Standing at the bench now working on this thing.

I did the same thing to the bolts from my model 10 and FCP-SR and no issue too before I beveled anything.

 

[demolitionman]

Welp. Huge shout out to you guys. The ejector plunger bevel fixed my issues. Gun chambers rounds off both my accurate steel aics mags and pmags quickly and efficiently. No more rounds jumping up and jamming into the upper chamber entrance. I am stoked!

 

[Fate0n3]

Sorry to yet again bump an older post, looking to purchase a 110 Elite in 6.5.

Is the latest production of this rifle still having the ejector plunger issues or has this been resolved?

If not is it literally just sanding down the ejector plunger and beveling it all around the top the correct fix? Is there a replacement part that is correct that can be directly purchased?

 

[celltech]

Sorry to yet again bump an older post, looking to purchase a 110 Elite in 6.5.

Is the latest production of this rifle still having the ejector plunger issues or has this been resolved?

Assume that they might still have the issue, but it's an easy fix.

 

[Fate0n3]

Assume that they might still have the issue, but it's an easy fix.

Thank you big time just wanting to verify is it literally just sanding down the ejector plunger overall length and beveling it all around the top the correct fix? Is there a replacement part that is correct that can be directly purchased?

 

[celltech]

Thank you big time just wanting to verify is it literally just sanding down the ejector plunger overall length and beveling it all around the top the correct fix? Is there a replacement part that is correct that can be directly purchased?

It's literally just filing it down a few thou and beveling the edge. Tactical Works also sells an upgrade extractor/ejector kit that might accomplish the same thing, but I can't speak as to how well it works.

Gunshack has all the OEM replacement parts if you are worried about messing it up...and maybe it could work better depending on the parts tolerance.

 

[loveha]

I tried one of those kits, it's too long and flat. I pulled my ejector from an older bolt head and fixed my issue. So you would still need to shorten it and round off the edge.

 

[GerrywithaG]

THANKS EVERYONE HERE!!! I'm working thru the same issues now with my new .308 High Country. Slow feeding the bolt is fine, but any kind of speed and the case jumps out of the feed lips to the top of the bolt face and cocks/jams before chambering. My barrel also has a sharp edge at the chamber facing the bolt. I'll start with the ejector pin and go from there! My pin is just even with the top of the bolt face and has a domed shape to it. Also the ejection is somewhat limp as the empty just gets out of the reciever!, Thanks, Gerry

 

[demolitionman]

THANKS EVERYONE HERE!!! I'm working thru the same issues now with my new .308 High Country. Slow feeding the bolt is fine, but any kind of speed and the case jumps out of the feed lips to the top of the bolt face and cocks/jams before chambering. My barrel also has a sharp edge at the chamber facing the bolt. I'll start with the ejector pin and go from there! My pin is just even with the top of the bolt face and has a domed shape to it. Also the ejection is somewhat limp as the empty just gets out of the reciever!, Thanks, Gerry

This is all it took to get my working proper.

 

[AznTactical]

This is all it took to get my working proper.

My bevel was aiming towards my firing pin opening but if it's working that's all that matters.

 

[GerrywithaG]

Update: Like everyone has said, shaping the ejector pin towards the firing pin has done it for me! I pulled the pin out first and tested on mocked up loads empty and with a bullet seated, both worked equally fine, and I can cycle the bolt as fast as I want. Now I would like the eject a little more powerful, but I am not looking a gift horse so to speak!

Here's the new rifle waiting for glass from Optics Planet. I made the bolt lift knob(section of .223 Wylde barrel), bag rider(Kydex) and muzzle brake(design ripped from Bangsteel guys) here in my shop. The grip is from a Tikka, but not sure if it going to stay? it does fit my hand well. Thanks again all, Have fun, G.

 

[Nathantc]

well ill add another to this. Really wish i found this out before selling my savage 12fv in 6.5cm. Fine shooter, jammed like this on every round. Played hell with magazines and even put it in one of those promag archangel stocks with their own magazine system. That helped but not 100%

My new savage 110FCP in 300PRC would do this only if i cycled the bolt at normal for me speed. Faster or slower it did not do it at all. I messed up the first ejector and gave it weak ejection but if fed flawlessly. Well bought 5 new ejectors to work with and nailed it on the second try. Ejects like it should, feeds like butter. After reading this here i got it to jam again. Held the bolt tight so that the jam would stay. removed the magazine and behold. The case head sitting directly on top of the ejector. Anyway. Did mine with a hand file. so its not pretty, but it feeds, ejects and leaves no marks at all on the brass so ill call this one done.