Savage Mark ll TR Range Report

ole'soldier

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Dec 16, 2011
109
4
Houston, TX
I picked up my Savage a couple of weeks ago and got to break it in this past Friday. I was very pleased with what I saw and just wanted to give a summary that may help someone out. I chose what I considered the 3 best examples of what I have in my cache. I tend to shoot Mini Mags almost exclusively in my M&P15-22 but choose to leave them and the Stingers off the menu. I chose Lapua Rifle Match 40gr Round Nose (German Make not usually sold locally), Eley Club 40gr Round Nose, and finally Aguila Golden Eagle Match Rifle 40gr Round Nose.

My Mark ll is the TR version. After doing a bit if reading I ordered the DIP bottom plate. I was frankly scared to touch the screws until I had the plate not knowing what I would find torque wise. I could see the bottom plate was a little distorted from the action screw up top. Once the plate came in I took it apart and found the screws weren't tight at all. This is the one area I was aware of being disappointing hence the DIP bottom plate. From what others have stated concerning torque values for the action screws I figured I'd go with 20in-lbs for both front and rear action screws. I didn't take my torque screwdriver with me on this trip. I just wanted to function check and establish a base to go off of.

Sight in was 25yds then established a 50yd zero. I intend to shoot this out to 200yds which is my go-to for my AR's. The range goes out to 300 but cost wise I can hit the 200 twice for the cost of the 300yd so this rifle will move there next time. For optics the scope used to be on my 20" AR but is now home on the Savage. It's Mueller's APT 4.5-14x40 with sunshade. Mechanical zero had me way off to the left. I was starting to wonder if I had canted bases and finally got it on paper. I still have 2 full rotations to the right (30MOA) so I was good with that, I have 3 1/2 rotations to the left available so it would seem I'm a little off. Once on paper it took less than 3 shots to get it sighted. Can't complain there.

I moved it to 50yds to establish what is going to be it's zero for now. Groups are pretty tight and I always have that one flyer that opens the group up. I'll play with torque settings next time to see how it affects that. All 3 ammo's performed well, consistently. The Eley had a POI shit to 1 o'clock and was consistent with it. I found the Lapua and Aguila were close, even at 100yds the groups opened a bit but the POI stayed roughly the same as its 50yd performance with Lapua and Eley hitting to the right while the Aguila was always 11 o'clock.

In all, I put 150 shots through it that day and found almost 4 hours had passed, seemed like half that time. I left the trigger at the factory setting. Until now I mainly shoot AR's and even my lightest trigger is about 5lbs so this is set to the lowest by default according to Savage which should be 1.5lbs if memory serves me. That's light enough for me. Anyway, any suggestions on the action screws is welcomed. Hope you enjoyed it.
 

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Great write-up, thanks for the review:)

I've been seriously thinking about buying one of those very same models. I currently use a 10/22 for rimfire, but having recently been very impressed with Savage, I'm considering an bolt action rimfire in an A5-type stock to compliment my A5-stocked centerfire bolt gun.
 
Great write-up, thanks for the review:)

I've been seriously thinking about buying one of those very same models. I currently use a 10/22 for rimfire, but having recently been very impressed with Savage, I'm considering an bolt action rimfire in an A5-type stock to compliment my A5-stocked centerfire bolt gun.


I've been using an M&P 15-22 for Rimfire needs but wanted better accuracy, plus I wanted to get into bolt guns and figured with the ranges I have access to shooting this out to 200 should help with trigger time and wind calls. You won't be disappointed.
 
# shooter, Wait till it gets broken in after about 400-500 rounds! Watch the groups shrink more!

That's what I've heard and that's what I'm looking for. I'm impressed with what I've seen on the maiden voyage so I expect it to only get better. I have a few other types of ammo on hand besides the CCI (Mini-Mags and Stingers), some Fiocchi and Federal bulk ammo, I'll try these next trip. Some people seem to do better with the common stuff.
 
You won't be disappointed.

I keep hearing that about that little plinker;)
Your interest in it is exactly the same as mine. Practice and training, without developing a recoil flinch. Developing muscle memory, trigger control... even practicing prone techniques. I've taken the shortage of rimfire ammo into consideration; it's tough to find, but not impossible.

I find that all the same marksmanship fundamentals apply, whether I'm shooting a .177 pellet gun or a centerfire boomer :p
 
No, the ammo isn't impossible to find. It's more a matter of price. The range I go to has it but sells it at 5 times the cost. I can find it online much cheaper. Pellet rifles are where I'm going to be headed back to eventually once I have a backyard again. That .177 is what I cut my teeth on as a kid. :)
 
That's what I've heard and that's what I'm looking for. I'm impressed with what I've seen on the maiden voyage so I expect it to only get better. I have a few other types of ammo on hand besides the CCI (Mini-Mags and Stingers), some Fiocchi and Federal bulk ammo, I'll try these next trip. Some people seem to do better with the common stuff.

Mine seems to like Wolf the best. Try that if you can find any now days.
 
You mentioned CCI Mini Mags in your original post. Have you tried running any of that through it to compare the accuracy to the match ammo? Just curious.

Not yet. They will be on the list for the next outing....maybe. I've been a little reluctant to shoot them b/c I have very little of the mini-Mags left compared to others. I haven't been able to find it locally or on line since last year and that sucks bad being its a favorite of mine.
 
Solid little rig you have there. Wish I had the TR style stock on my old Mark II. Does anyone know if savage sells that style stock as a "replacement" part or if is it available elsewhere?
 
Solid little rig you have there. Wish I had the TR style stock on my old Mark II. Does anyone know if savage sells that style stock as a "replacement" part or if is it available elsewhere?


Boyds

Boyds: TACTICOOL SAVAGE® MKII HEAVY BARREL CHANNEL LAMINATE STOCK W/BLACK TEXTURED FINISH TactiCool

I bought a thumb-hole stock from them for my daughter's Marlin 795 and it is pretty nice. They make the stock for Savage. The comb is a Monte Carlo type which is the only difference from The TR and TRR's stock version.
 
I saw some sub sonic ammo online but didn't think to get that. Might just grab a box when I can. How far out are you shooting with sub ammo?

All 3 of the rounds you used are subsonic. Maybe just not marketed that way.. Standard Velocity = Subsonic... Anything marked "MATCH" is subsonic. ;)

Mitch
 
My mark 11 likes the wolf mt and x. Shot the best groups this week with those two rounds. I just got mine last week and hope that it does better in the next few hundred rounds or so. My groups weren't bad, around 1/2-3/4's in at 50 yards when the wind wasn't blowing. Wind blowing, groups opened up accordingly. I really think I need to get rid of the tupperware stock that is on it. Maybe the tacticool that is posted above. Are those stocks wood or laminate? Do you need to pillar bed to get the best results with them?
 
My mark 11 likes the wolf mt and x. Shot the best groups this week with those two rounds. I just got mine last week and hope that it does better in the next few hundred rounds or so. My groups weren't bad, around 1/2-3/4's in at 50 yards when the wind wasn't blowing. Wind blowing, groups opened up accordingly. I really think I need to get rid of the tupperware stock that is on it. Maybe the tacticool that is posted above. Are those stocks wood or laminate? Do you need to pillar bed to get the best results with them?

They are a laminate. I just stripped mine down after trying a few different camo jobs, and refinished it. Some people pillar bed them, I didn't. What is recommended is changing the bottom plate, mine came from DIP. From there people will experiment with different torque settings on the action screws to find the best results. I'm taking my back out hopefully this weekend coming to try that out and test some other ammo I have. I'd like to get my hands on some of the Wolf ammo and give that a try.
 

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They are a laminate. I just stripped mine down after trying a few different camo jobs, and refinished it. Some people pillar bed them, I didn't. What is recommended is changing the bottom plate, mine came from DIP. From there people will experiment with different torque settings on the action screws to find the best results. I'm taking my back out hopefully this weekend coming to try that out and test some other ammo I have. I'd like to get my hands on some of the Wolf ammo and give that a try.
How is the Boyd's different from the savage? I just picked up the mark ll with the three pic rails on it. When I look down the barrel it doesn't look straight.....it may just be an optical thing with my eye....I hope. Does anyone run a canted rail, I haven't shot 22 in years and got this a trainer. I can't wait to get it out to the range.
 
How is the Boyd's different from the savage? I just picked up the mark ll with the three pic rails on it. When I look down the barrel it doesn't look straight.....it may just be an optical thing with my eye....I hope. Does anyone run a canted rail, I haven't shot 22 in years and got this a trainer. I can't wait to get it out to the range.

Sounds like you got the TRR which is the same rifle as my TR, but it has a 3 sided picatinny rail and a threaded barrel. If you're asking about the stock, the stock is made by Boyds, but they have a different comb height. That's the difference between their aftermarket stock vs what they make for the factory TR and TRR. Can't speak for the straight part, but there was a period of time when the bases were canted and this was something Savage would fix under warranty. This is my understanding from doing some Googling on the matter.
 
They are a laminate. I just stripped mine down after trying a few different camo jobs, and refinished it. Some people pillar bed them, I didn't. What is recommended is changing the bottom plate, mine came from DIP. From there people will experiment with different torque settings on the action screws to find the best results. I'm taking my back out hopefully this weekend coming to try that out and test some other ammo I have. I'd like to get my hands on some of the Wolf ammo and give that a try.
Where are you at in the Houston area? I am down in the Tx city area. I forgot to add, nice looking paint job you have there on that savage. I am going to order up one of the boyds stocks and most likely also order a cz 455 pt.
 
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Where are you at in the Houston area? I am down in the Tx city area. I forgot to add, nice looking paint job you have there on that savage. I am going to order up one of the boyds stocks and most likely also order a cz 455 pt.

Almost in Spring, by Gander Mountain on 45. You can typically find me at Thunder Gun Range in Conroe while I wait for a couple of private ranges to open membership again.Thanks on the paint job. It was a little frustrating when I tried a new texture paint I hadn't used before. I ditched the texture and stripped it twice before going with what you see.

I don't think you can go wrong with the CZ. I haven't shot one but have read nothing but good reviews on them.
 
288, you talking Juliff/ Bayou Rifle? I have a former co-worker whose a member there and go out with him once in a while there and to the Addicks range for some rimfire. I'm waiting for Bay Area Shooting Club to open up the membership in a few months. I missed the chance last year but won't make that mistake again. Their range goes out to 600yds.
 
I'm glad your getting results from your MK II! I have been through two scopes, different mounts, and at least 10 different loads and the thing won't group for anything. I have confirmed all screws for mounts and rings are at manufacturers specs for torque with my torque screw driver, checked to make sure the barrel is free floating etc. It will group two rounds on top of each other dead center then throw two rounds grouped somewhere else then the next three will buckshot all over the place. Never have I been so frustrated with a rifle. My daughters B.S. mossberg 715 22 I can get to group at easily half the group size as this savage at half the cost. At 100 yards it is shooting maybe 12 inch groups off of sand bags and no wind with eley match. The rifle is going back to savage when I get a hold of them on Monday, they seem confident that there is something wrong with the rifle so we will see. But seeing your thread gives me a little hope.
 
I'm glad your getting results from your MK II! I have been through two scopes, different mounts, and at least 10 different loads and the thing won't group for anything. I have confirmed all screws for mounts and rings are at manufacturers specs for torque with my torque screw driver, checked to make sure the barrel is free floating etc. It will group two rounds on top of each other dead center then throw two rounds grouped somewhere else then the next three will buckshot all over the place. Never have I been so frustrated with a rifle. My daughters B.S. mossberg 715 22 I can get to group at easily half the group size as this savage at half the cost. At 100 yards it is shooting maybe 12 inch groups off of sand bags and no wind with eley match. The rifle is going back to savage when I get a hold of them on Monday, they seem confident that there is something wrong with the rifle so we will see. But seeing your thread gives me a little hope.


From what I have been reading torque settings make the difference in grouping. I set my to 20in-lbs each and got the results above. I'm going to try it again with 15 front and 20 on the rear to see the difference. I can at least go back to 20/20 as a reference. Twelve inch groups at 100yds is not good I agree.
 
I'm glad your getting results from your MK II! I have been through two scopes, different mounts, and at least 10 different loads and the thing won't group for anything. I have confirmed all screws for mounts and rings are at manufacturers specs for torque with my torque screw driver, checked to make sure the barrel is free floating etc. It will group two rounds on top of each other dead center then throw two rounds grouped somewhere else then the next three will buckshot all over the place. Never have I been so frustrated with a rifle. My daughters B.S. mossberg 715 22 I can get to group at easily half the group size as this savage at half the cost. At 100 yards it is shooting maybe 12 inch groups off of sand bags and no wind with eley match. The rifle is going back to savage when I get a hold of them on Monday, they seem confident that there is something wrong with the rifle so we will see. But seeing your thread gives me a little hope.
 
I'm glad your getting results from your MK II! I have been through two scopes, different mounts, and at least 10 different loads and the thing won't group for anything. I have confirmed all screws for mounts and rings are at manufacturers specs for torque with my torque screw driver, checked to make sure the barrel is free floating etc. It will group two rounds on top of each other dead center then throw two rounds grouped somewhere else then the next three will buckshot all over the place. Never have I been so frustrated with a rifle. My daughters B.S. mossberg 715 22 I can get to group at easily half the group size as this savage at half the cost. At 100 yards it is shooting maybe 12 inch groups off of sand bags and no wind with eley match. The rifle is going back to savage when I get a hold of them on Monday, they seem confident that there is something wrong with the rifle so we will see. But seeing your thread gives me a little hope.

Good luck...hopefully Savage will take care of you, it does sound like a problem with the gun. My Mark II TR has been the most accurate .22 out of the box I've ever owned. With Wolf match, I've been able to get sub moa groups at 100 yds. Let us know how it turns out, I've never had any dealings with Savage's CS.
 
Good luck...hopefully Savage will take care of you, it does sound like a problem with the gun. My Mark II TR has been the most accurate .22 out of the box I've ever owned. With Wolf match, I've been able to get sub moa groups at 100 yds. Let us know how it turns out, I've never had any dealings with Savage's CS.

Will do, I am confident they will fix it, I have been flim flaming about if I had to high of expectations of the rifle or if it was just a shit shooting rifle. After seeing the OP pictures I am sure that it is a rifle issue.
 
From what I have been reading torque settings make the difference in grouping. I set my to 20in-lbs each and got the results above. I'm going to try it again with 15 front and 20 on the rear to see the difference. I can at least go back to 20/20 as a reference. Twelve inch groups at 100yds is not good I agree.

Where are torquing front and rear? I am assuming you mean that you mean on the screws that connect stock to action correct? Right now they are at 20 and 20
 
Where are torquing front and rear? I am assuming you mean that you mean on the screws that connect stock to action correct? Right now they are at 20 and 20


The 1st and 3rd screws starting from the front of the stock (your assumption is correct). When I switched to the DIP bottom plate I went with 20in-lbs for both. I was surprised at how lightly the screws were actually set in mine when I first removed the plate, and the plate was slightly deformed when I got the rifle. My last trip to the range was with a different rifle so I have yet to see what changing the torque values will produce, and I never shot the rifle with the factory bottom plate so I don't know what the factory settings would have resulted in. Next trip out will be soon with this rifle. I'm eager to see the results with different settings. I'll post the difference I see.
 
The 1st and 3rd screws starting from the front of the stock (your assumption is correct). When I switched to the DIP bottom plate I went with 20in-lbs for both. I was surprised at how lightly the screws were actually set in mine when I first removed the plate, and the plate was slightly deformed when I got the rifle. My last trip to the range was with a different rifle so I have yet to see what changing the torque values will produce, and I never shot the rifle with the factory bottom plate so I don't know what the factory settings would have resulted in. Next trip out will be soon with this rifle. I'm eager to see the results with different settings. I'll post the difference I see.

Any word on how changing your torque helped any? Savage CS has been great, right when I called them they sent a shipping label and have the rifle with their smith's. I would probably already have the rifle back if it wasn't for them shutting down for two weeks. I have no clue why other than that is what the automated message says when I called them to check on the status.
 
Any word on how changing your torque helped any? Savage CS has been great, right when I called them they sent a shipping label and have the rifle with their smith's. I would probably already have the rifle back if it wasn't for them shutting down for two weeks. I have no clue why other than that is what the automated message says when I called them to check on the status.


You know, I just went back out with it a couple of weeks ago for the 2nd time and yes, I did make a change. This range has little animal gongs all the way out to 115yds and I actually let my buddy have at it first. He's a good shot and wasn't making hits like I knew the rifle was capable of. I torqued the front back to 20in-lbs and he was now on. Not very scientific but if changing the torque back allows better hits I'll go with that for now. Next time I go out I'll take paper with me to check the real difference in the settings. I had no issues hitting 3in chickens out to 115yds so I was impressed with that. My other rimfire is a M&P 15-22 and hitting chickens at that distance takes patience because the accuracy isn't Mark ll accuracy.

Last week I went out to test some new loads for my AR's so this next trip will probably be to test accuracy on the Savage with various settings plus I want to stretch it to 200yds.

My buddy was so sold on the Savage that 3 days later he sold one of his rifles and picked up the Mark ll FVSR threaded and suppressed it.


added comment: Not sure why they may be closed but the company I work for it during the week of the 4th, might just be a company thing they do.
 
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I have a TRR that Ive turned into a LR trainer with a Super Sniper 10x scope and a Harris Bipod.
My experience finding the right ammo has been exhaustive.
I've tied, SK Match, Wolf Match, Remington Target, Eley Match, Standard Rmington green box/bulk CCi Mini Mag.
The most consistent for this rifle, by far has been the CCI mini-mag, the second most accurate is SK and the third, Wolf match.
The common factor is all three is that there's is some type of lube on all of them. The CCI has a paraffin cap on the bullet and the SK has some type of wet goop on the bullet, the Wolf, supposedly made in the same factory as the SK has a light lube.
I tested the lubrication effects on Remington Target and found some surprising results- rounds sprayed with a cooking oil spray grouped significantly tighter than their dry counterparts at 50 yds.
I tried, paraffin, lanolin cream, silicon, Trader Joes Coconut Oil spray and a few others....the best, by far was the TJs coconut oil spray...it has the added benefits of begin rather inert, nontoxic and cheap.
So, if you can find CCI MiniMag or Match grade ammo, try some TJs Coconut Oil cooking spray- a friend says Pam worked for him but I haven't tested it.
My only issues with the MkII is that the last round in the mag seems to get misfed or jammed occasionally- I'm still looking into that.
 
Any word on how changing your torque helped any? Savage CS has been great, right when I called them they sent a shipping label and have the rifle with their smith's. I would probably already have the rifle back if it wasn't for them shutting down for two weeks. I have no clue why other than that is what the automated message says when I called them to check on the status.

gunn317, I have a TR in .22LR that is a tack driver, so I picked up a twin in .17HMR. That HMR would scattergun rounds all over the place! I sent my mine back, along with a test target of five, 5 shot groups with different ammo and a letter explaining the accuracy problem. Took just under two months, but I got it back recently with a new barrel and an impressive 100yd proof target. I was able to duplicate that accuracy for myself this past weekend, shooting MOA @ 100yds now.
Just wanted to let ya know I had a positive outcome! Be patient and Savage should do right by ya...

Back on track, thanks for the writeup! My TR is a little hammer too, and definitely prefers 'match' ammo as well. DIP bottom metal, 20moa rail and Rifle Basix trigger. I run Rem Target Rifle (Eley) in mine...
 
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I have a TRR that Ive turned into a LR trainer with a Super Sniper 10x scope and a Harris Bipod.
My experience finding the right ammo has been exhaustive.
I've tied, SK Match, Wolf Match, Remington Target, Eley Match, Standard Rmington green box/bulk CCi Mini Mag.
The most consistent for this rifle, by far has been the CCI mini-mag, the second most accurate is SK and the third, Wolf match.
The common factor is all three is that there's is some type of lube on all of them. The CCI has a paraffin cap on the bullet and the SK has some type of wet goop on the bullet, the Wolf, supposedly made in the same factory as the SK has a light lube.
I tested the lubrication effects on Remington Target and found some surprising results- rounds sprayed with a cooking oil spray grouped significantly tighter than their dry counterparts at 50 yds.
I tried, paraffin, lanolin cream, silicon, Trader Joes Coconut Oil spray and a few others....the best, by far was the TJs coconut oil spray...it has the added benefits of begin rather inert, nontoxic and cheap.
So, if you can find CCI MiniMag or Match grade ammo, try some TJs Coconut Oil cooking spray- a friend says Pam worked for him but I haven't tested it.
My only issues with the MkII is that the last round in the mag seems to get misfed or jammed occasionally- I'm still looking into that.

The Lapua ammo I have comes with a light coat of oil on it, gives a distinct smell after it's shot. It also shoots about the best groups at distance, could be on to something. I don't have the problems with mis-feeding the last round or jamming. What I did have was mis-feeds(1st round) right off the bat with the factory 5rd mag. The other (2) 5 rounders from JoeBob's worked great. Me being me, I reshaped the feed lips a little, they looked to be spread apart more, and I have never had a problem with that magazine since. I've been working on loads for my AR's so I haven't shot this rifle for groups in a bit. I want to stretch it to 200yrds on the next trip out though. I'm eager to see what it does at that distance.

To knockemdown, just wanted to give other Mark ll prospective buyers something to go on. I didn't see much on this rifle so figured I'd step up to the plate. I think for the money we have a rifle that can certainly hold its own without breaking the bank. Thanks
 
gunn317, I have a TR in .22LR that is a tack driver, so I picked up a twin in .17HMR. That HMR would scattergun rounds all over the place! I sent my mine back, along with a test target of five, 5 shot groups with different ammo and a letter explaining the accuracy problem. Took just under two months, but I got it back recently with a new barrel and an impressive 100yd proof target. I was able to duplicate that accuracy for myself this past weekend, shooting MOA @ 100yds now.
Just wanted to let ya know I had a positive outcome! Be patient and Savage should do right by ya...

Back on track, thanks for the writeup! My TR is a little hammer too, and definitely prefers 'match' ammo as well. DIP bottom metal, 20moa rail and Rifle Basix trigger. I run Rem Target Rifle (Eley) in mine...

Knockem,

I sent the rifle in about a month ago Savage confirmed that it was bad barrel. I called about two weeks ago and they stated they had replaced the barrel and the rifle still didn't shoot up to the engineers specs so they scraped the whole rifle and I am waiting for a new MKII to show up at my door. They have been great to deal with and I don't have a complaint, my daughter on the other hand is kind of pissy that the rifle still isn't here. The hardest part about her shooting with me is keeping ammo in the house still so ready for the rifle to come in and get her back out to the range.
 
Good to learn you are being taken care of. And I hear ya on the kids wanting to shoot!
My niece has taken partial claim to the .17HMR now, and has requested "more ammo" for her birthday present. That made me smile...

Keep us posted on how your new TR comes back!
 
Walmart is making a come back on the ammo trail. I've picked up a few boxes(Federal 325 boxes) both locally and out of town. Up in Lewisville, they only put a few boxes on the shelf but keep the cases under the counter out of sight. Also Gander Mountain has also been getting it in. Picked up a few Bricks from them by ordering online. Between my 2 kids and I, we can put some ammo away.