SBR Build

[kthomas]

I'm looking to build my first SBR in the near(ish) future, to celebrate my upcoming US Citizenship (current permanent resident).

The goals are to have a fun and quality SBR. Not trying to clone anything, not trying to build for some SHTF scenario. Just a quality SBR that will be used for fun, and will be shot 100% suppressed.

I've never built an ar-15 and have no SBR's, so any feedback on my plan is much welcomed. I have not 100% decided on anything, nor have I started to acquire any parts yet, so I can move in any direction with this build upon feedback.

This is what I'm thinking:

- Noveske Gen 1 matched receiver set
- Nefarious Arms 10.5" dimpled barrel
- Geissele 10" super modular Federal rail
- Geissele SSA-E trigger
- Geissele Super Duty LPK
- JP silent capture spring with H2 buffer
- Superlative arms adjustable gas block
- Rearden Arms FHD muzzle device
- CTR stock (already own)
- Magpul MOE-K grip

TBD:
- Charging handle
- BCG

Optic is also TBD - probably something like a T1/T2 Micro. Suppressor will be Able Co Biscuit utilizing Plan B/Rearden system, also have an Omega 300 that could be used with it.

Thoughts on this build? Any issues with comparability for my proposed components?

 

[SkyScrapin]

I'd say for a guy who hasn't built one, that's a pretty damn good list of parts. I like it.

Optics wise, you can't go wrong with an Aimpoint. Holosun, while chyna, makes an exceptionally good RDS too.

 

[alamo5000]

My suggestion is to step back and try to define EXACTLY what role this rifle will play and set it up accordingly as to how you will use it. For example if I were to build another one it would be for a mid range setup. I would have a 12.5" barrel and it would probably wear a 1-6x or 1-8x optic. I would even consider doing it in some other caliber such as 6 ARC. 5.56 would still have the same concept behind it though.

I currently have one that is 10.5" and another than is 9". If I had to do those over about the only thing I would change is using a hand guard that has m lok flats at the 1:30, 4:30, 7:30, and 10:30 positions. If nothing else this gives many more options to mount things like remote switches for lights or whatever (should that ever come up).

Instead of jumping right in to X brand of this or Y brand of that, define specifically what kind of setup you want. This will actually take quite a lot of research. For example if you want to build a shorty for CQC/CQB applications you will need to have at least a loose understanding of the tactics involved in doing that. Same thing for fighting around cars or primarily inside of structures as well.

Seemingly little things such as light placement will matter. Think about that stuff as a first thing, not an after thought after it's all put together. On my two SBRs now, both of them run a light at the 10:30 position and I do not use any kind of remote switches. I planned to avoid wires from the start on those rifles.

If I had something with a longer rail though a remote switch would be a primary concern, which would then help determine where to put the light and what switch. If I did my 12.5 for example I would have my light at the 1:30 position and have a Unity Tactical Hot Button at the 10:30 position. That placement of the button would not be an option with a rail that has 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00 only positions.

You don't need to be an expert in all things tactics, but having a general idea about something specific will help you tremendously in getting right the first time (for the most part).

 

[alamo5000]

It seems like a small thing, but the devil is genuinely in the details. This is the type of button mentioned above. Also this picture shows the type of rail mentioned as well. If you think about those types of issues from the start it will save you lots of headaches later on.

 

[alamo5000]

You will save yourself some grief if you create a different list. What light do you want? Where will it be at? What mount will you use to secure said light? How will you activate it? Are you going to run a laser/NV/thermal or whatever?
Do you want the options to QD release a red dot and replace the optic with a thermal or something else?

On one of my rifles the red dot is secured with an ADM QD mount. Later on I can swap optics in the field if say I go on a hog hunt at night. Also are you going to be wearing body armor? How high do you want your mount for your RDS?

The list goes on and on. In other words you are starting out trying to figure out which roll mark you like best on which lower, but in reality you need to work in the other direction...

 

[kthomas]

My suggestion is to step back and try to define EXACTLY what role this rifle will play and set it up accordingly as to how you will use it. For example if I were to build another one it would be for a mid range setup. I would have a 12.5" barrel and it would probably wear a 1-6x or 1-8x optic. I would even consider doing it in some other caliber such as 6 ARC. 5.56 would still have the same concept behind it though.

I currently have one that is 10.5" and another than is 9". If I had to do those over about the only thing I would change is using a hand guard that has m lok flats at the 1:30, 4:30, 7:30, and 10:30 positions. If nothing else this gives many more options to mount things like remote switches for lights or whatever (should that ever come up).

Instead of jumping right in to X brand of this or Y brand of that, define specifically what kind of setup you want. This will actually take quite a lot of research. For example if you want to build a shorty for CQC/CQB applications you will need to have at least a loose understanding of the tactics involved in doing that. Same thing for fighting around cars or primarily inside of structures as well.

Seemingly little things such as light placement will matter. Think about that stuff as a first thing, not an after thought after it's all put together. On my two SBRs now, both of them run a light at the 10:30 position and I do not use any kind of remote switches. I planned to avoid wires from the start on those rifles.

If I had something with a longer rail though a remote switch would be a primary concern, which would then help determine where to put the light and what switch. If I did my 12.5 for example I would have my light at the 1:30 position and have a Unity Tactical Hot Button at the 10:30 position. That placement of the button would not be an option with a rail that has 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00 only positions.

You don't need to be an expert in all things tactics, but having a general idea about something specific will help you tremendously in getting right the first time (for the most part).

Good questions, similar to the kind of questions I would ask when people ask about getting started in precision rifles.

Really this is only going to be a fun range toy. At some point it would be fun to do a carbine/CQB class, though I have no real intentions of using this rifle in a real CQB role. I have no fantasies of using this for home defense or SHTF scenarios. It's not going to be used for hunting or night time Ops. Just good 'ol fashion fun at the range from 0-100 yards.

There's no real plans or desires to mount any auxiliary equipment to it like flashlights, DBAL's, or other such equipment. Don't own body armor and no intentions of getting any - It'll be shot while I'm wearing shorts/pants and a t-shirt.

I have two full build 16" AR-15's (a KAC SR15 Mod 1 and a Falkor Caitlyn that I won), and an additional 16" upper (BCM C8 SFW). At some point I would love to build an accurized 18" upper for SPR roles and CD competitions. This SBR is just for short range fun and creating smiles.

 

[alamo5000]

A light is the only thing I would say is non negotiable. Everything else is good if you want it or if you don't.

 

[alamo5000]

That said, at least for me when I put a purpose into my builds they become that much more fun to shoot and goof off with.

I'm not a cop nor have I ever spent a day in any uniform. Regardless of that, it's interesting stuff to learn and it to me improves the ownership and shooting experience.

 

[kthomas]

That said, at least for me when I put a purpose into my builds they become that much more fun to shoot and goof off with.

I'm not a cop nor have I ever spent a day in any uniform. Regardless of that, it's interesting stuff to learn and it to me improves the ownership and shooting experience.

You bring up really good points, I appreciate that perspective. I'm the same way with bolt guns, though honestly I have no experience with SBR's to really nail it down with a specific objective at this time. I'll think about it more - having intent and being purposeful always makes things more rewarding, I like where you are going with that.

I'm not opposed to flashlights, two of my AR-15's have Haley Strategic WML's, though I'm sure there's much better ones out now for use on something like a CQB AR-15. I'm open to suggestions on what those would be.

 

[alamo5000]

I'm not opposed to flashlights, two of my AR-15's have Haley Strategic WML's, though I'm sure there's much better ones out now for use on something like a CQB AR-15. I'm open to suggestions on what those would be.

I have Arisaka on everything. Their lights and mounts are excellent. The guy that owns the place is a good dude. You can ask him for some ideas and he will definitely put you in the right direction.

 

[RMD45]

IMO, I will suggest:
LMT Mars L, LMT shovel nose upper, Criterion Ultralight chopped to 12.5 with FSB
Or
Complete ADM 12.5 with a Larue LAT.

 

[ut755ln]

- JP silent capture spring with H2 buffer

I have a MK18 and when I started to shoot with a can, I would sometimes have issues with the bcg not picking up a round out of the magazine. For me, I needed to use a H3 buffer and have not had a problem since.

 

[kthomas]

I would recommend a VLTOR A5 buffer setup and a BRT pinned gas block and EZTune gas tube. VLTOR A5 tube, green springco spring, and a VLTOR A5H1. Use BRTs help wizard for their recommendation for a spec'd tube. That will give you a simple, reliable, matched buffer <-> gas system. That would be my only input.

This is a pretty intriguing option. I was unaware of BRT until this post, and I like what I see with their systems.

Excuse the ignorance, but where do I find their help wizard?

 

[msgriff]

This is a pretty intriguing option. I was unaware of BRT until this post, and I like what I see with their systems.

Excuse the ignorance, but where do I find their help wizard?

There are a number of ways to tune a gas system. Each have their own advantages/disadvantages, quirks and limitations. Here's a link to the BRT EZTune page for carbine length gas tubes. If you choose to have them calculate the gas tube opening size, just enter your build info in the drop down menus. If you're unsure of anything, contact them and they'll help you out.
BRT EZTune - Carbine

 

[kthomas]

There are a number of ways to tune a gas system. Each have their own advantages/disadvantages, quirks and limitations. Here's a link to the BRT EZTune page for carbine length gas tubes. If you choose to have them calculate the gas tube opening size, just enter your build info in the drop down menus. If you're unsure of anything, contact them and they'll help you out.
BRT EZTune - Carbine

Awesome, thanks!

The nuances of gas systems in the ar-15 is definitely something I'm going to have to get more knowledgeable on.

 

[Cascade Hemi]

I would select a chrome BCG for ease of cleaning. I think Youngs is owned by KE Arms (Communists) now but Microbest does a chrome BCG. Replace the springs in the bolt with Sprinco.

 

[CaptArab]

SBRs are cool and all but I would (and did) just do a 13.7/9 with a surefire mini, sandman k, or oss flow. That inch or two with the k cans just isn't worth the hassle of an SBR IMO - I actually prefer longer barrels, but I'm in an rural setting, don't do door kicking stuff or in and out of vehicles, etc.

I'll go away now and not totally wreck your thread, but if you only own one AR, the 13.9 is the one, IMO.

 

[TonyTheTiger]

KE Arms (Communists)

?
At risk of thread drift, I'd ike to know more.

 

[msgriff]

?
At risk of thread drift, I'd ike to know more.

It's one hell of a saga that's been going on real heavy for the last few months, I can tell you that. Definitely Bear Pit material, though.

 

[Cascade Hemi]

?
At risk of thread drift, I'd ike to know more.

Their VP of marketing is wrapped up with InRange TV (YT) whom is a cuck and communist tranny advocate. KE went so far as to produce the Community Defense rifle. Brownells dropped the KE Arms WWSD rifles over it. That's as short as I can condense it.

 

[TonyTheTiger]

Their VP of marketing is wrapped up with InRange TV (YT) whom is a cuck and communist tranny advocate. KE went so far as to produce the Community Defense rifle. Brownells dropped the KE Arms WWSD rifles over it. That's as short as I can condense it.

I'll have to look into it. I knew KE was associated with In Range, and I've disliked both Karl Kasarda and Russell Phagan for reasons I could never put my finger on but haven't followed any of their stuff or drama for years.

 

[TonyTheTiger]

Definitely Bear Pit material, though.

Is there a BP thread on it? I tried some googling but I have very limited patience for the weapons grade autism I found in most reddit threads.

 

[msgriff]

Is there a BP thread on it? I tried some googling but I have very limited patience for the weapons grade autism I found in most reddit threads.

Not that I know of. Most of the good stuff on social media controlled by the actors in question gets scrubbed. Looong arfcom GD thread where the 2 you mentioned got banned multiple times and KE no longer has an Industry account.

 

[Merle]

I would forego the Noveske receiver set and instead go with this option:

MA M4 Dickbutt Receiver Set

 

[thedude824]

As one of the other posters mentioned. I would focus on features before brands. As far as receivers, do you want ambi? Do you want billet? After having the ADM ambi lower, I dislike my non-ambi lowers. Any future AR builds will have ADM, Radian, Mega, or San Tan ambi lowers. I really like the ambi bolt catch/release.

Since you are going with an SBR + suppressor setup I would STRONGLY encourage a 12.5" barrel and K can over a 10.5" barrel and any size can. In my experience a 10.5" barrel is unpleasant regardless of suppressor while a 12.5" can be reasonable to shoot unsuppressed with an appropriate flash hider/mount and can be very reasonable with a decent can. It is also ballistically superior in every regard AND easier on suppressors. If I wanted shorter than a 12.5" I would (and did) go with 300blk out. There is nothing fun in any configuration with a 10.5" 556 barrel.

I would strongly encourage a Vltor A5 buffer system with your choice of adjustable gas block. Its so nice shooting and the extra length is a non-issue as very few can shoot on a fully collapsed stock. Admittedly I have no experience with the JP system. Ive never heard spring noise.

Butt stock is your choice, but I really wasn't happy with the CTR. I like a sloped cheek weld. The Vltor Emod is my favorite, but I also like the Magpul STR and have that on another rifle. The UBR is also really nice and has the A5 length buffer tube.

Charging handle... I have Radian Raptor charging handles. They have a vented version that I have on my SBR. I was able to set it up to shoot reliably with and without a can with no gas to the face.