Scale question

[Dildobaggins]

Happy new year everyone. So I bought an RCBS M500 beam scale off Midway, because out of all the beam scales it had the best reviews. I opened it and I couldn't believe how cheap it felt. I started to weigh bullets and other things and something seemed off. I ordered a Lyman check weight set, and as I'm using it I'm noticing the beam notches don't correspond with the actual reading of weight. I'm going to return it.

Question: what would be a good scale recommendation? I'd really like a beam scale. Would buying an older one off of eBay be a good option? They seem alot beefier. Or I was looking at an RCBS charge master, but I really don't want to nut up that kind of money. Especially since I'm new to reloading. I don't mind having to take a long time. Its soothing to me. I'm looking for accuracy, not to rip off plinking rounds. Thanks!

 

[mtrmn]

RCBS 1010. Good scale. Older ones are much better quality. I knocked my old one off a shelf and broke one of the pivots off the beam. Sent it in to RCBS for repair expecting to have to pay. They sent me a brand new 1010 no questions asked. Although I'm happy with that, the new one was made in China and is lower quality overall. It's just as accurate as my old one far as I can tell.
If I was in the market for a beam scale knowing what I know now, I'd be comfortable paying as-new price for an older 1010 off ebay.

 

[Dildobaggins]

RCBS 1010. Good scale. Older ones are much better quality. I knocked my old one off a shelf and broke one of the pivots off the beam. Sent it in to RCBS for repair expecting to have to pay. They sent me a brand new 1010 no questions asked. Although I'm happy with that, the new one was made in China and is lower quality overall. It's just as accurate as my old one far as I can tell.
If I was in the market for a beam scale knowing what I know now, I'd be comfortable paying as-new price for an older 1010 off ebay.

Awesome! I'll check out eBay. I noticed the older scales were going for just as much as the new ones, but if it's got a little more beef and is accurate I'm completely fine with that.

 

[Another Casual]

I made thousands of rounds on my RCBS 505 without issue. I recently got an A&D FX-120i. It is much faster and the SD of my weights is lower. The 505 had a slightly higher SD for weights, but the average was always dead on the money with what I had set it for.

 

[alamo5000]

Question: what would be a good scale recommendation? I'd really like a beam scale.

I am not a scale guru but I have a Redding beam scale and have been very pleased with it.

 

[Dildobaggins]

I made thousands of rounds on m RCBS 505 without issue. I recently got an A&D FX-120i. It is much faster and the SD of my weights is lower. The 505 had a slightly higher SD for weights, but the average was always dead on the money with what I had set it for.

I think the scale i am returning is dead nuts accurate, it's just like .3 grains off from the sticker and notches on the beam which is driving me nuts. I'll check that scale out as well. Thanks!

 

[spife7980]

Return it and get a charge master. Or keep it as a back up and get a charge master. Not because it’s more accurate but because it stops you from having to take time to dispense it yourself. It removes basically all of your effort and time. Most importantly you’ll enjoy your time spent much more. I’ll never go back to manual dispense and weighing again.

 

[Jrb572]

I have a very old Redding oil dampened scale that is extremely accurate. I do not know the number on it. I have moved on to other scales. But it was my first scale given to me by a friend that has passed away.

 

[EJ1001]

Here are my 2 cents FWIW: I only load for accuracy and not volume, so I like beam scales and I weigh every charge. I also find beam scale loading relaxing (with music), almost like meditation - crazy, right? lol...

I did some level of research on the topic of scales before I jumped into reloading. My findings were that getting an accurate and consistent beam scale, of modern manufacture, was somewhat a roll of the dice.

So, I took a chance and purchased a Redding Model #2 scale and have been very happy with it to date. I checked it against another beam scale and a digital scale with two different sets of check weights, and the Redding has been money. The needle settles nicely around center so it makes trickling up each charge very easy and relatively quick.

If I had the time and inclination to shop around I would have looked at finding an older scale, or get one tuned by known good scale tuner. Fortunately I did not have too and may have got 'lucky' with the Redding.

 

[cast1]

Get a Dillon eliminator. It’s an Ohaus made 505. Get a little diamond stone and touch up the prisms, counting your strokes. I use a pair of 3x loops to keep an eye on mine as I sharpen them. I trust mine more than I trust my fx120i. It will weigh to the kernel as well. I have had the electric scale drift on me. Not the case with the balance beam. As long as gravity is the same today as it was yesterday, I can trust it.

 

[Dead Eye Dick]

Been using a Dillion beam scale for better than 20 years. It replaced an equally accurate Lyman scale that I accidentally knocked off oft he shelf. When the Lyman hit the floor, it was toast. Keep checking the Dillon with scale weights. All’s good so far.

Dillion works fine. But with all beam scales be wary of drafts or breezes hitting the scale. It won’t settle if wind is hitting it. That means no fans, and air conditioning vents directed elsewhere or shut off. Gets hot here in Louisiana, but a bad charge is even hotter.

 

[pmclaine]

I got this RCBS off Ebay......came in the original box, original directions, looks new....too lazy to go downstairs and check out its designation product wise....

It is older than 30 years anyway and a fantastic beam scale. It closes up nice in its own little plastic cocoon to keep everything dust free. Made in the USA when we made shit in the USA.

Like Coleman lanterns and camping tables.....scales will now be bought from Ebay and they will be old but if I wait and bide my time they will be brand new pretty much and ten times better than the chinese replacement.

 

[Mudflap621]

I think the scale i am returning is dead nuts accurate, it's just like .3 grains off from the sticker and notches on the beam which is driving me nuts. I'll check that scale out as well. Thanks!

Are you setting the scale to zero and then zeroing it out first?

I have a dillon as well and no complaints I just use it to check my electronic scales once in a while.

 

[mtrmn]

I got this RCBS off Ebay......came in the original box, original directions, looks new....too lazy to go downstairs and check out its designation product wise....

It is older than 30 years anyway and a fantastic beam scale. It closes up nice in its own little plastic cocoon to keep everything dust free. Made in the USA when we made shit in the USA.

Like Coleman lanterns and camping tables.....scales will now be bought from Ebay and they will be old but if I wait and bide my time they will be brand new pretty much and ten times better than the chinese replacement.

That's 1010. And a damn good one looks to me.

 

[mtrmn]

RCBS 10-10 Scale by Ohaus, Looks Unused. Still LNIB With Paperwork. US Made | eBay

<p>RCBS 10-10 Balance by Ohaus, 1,010 Gr / 2.3 Oz Capacity Precision Scale, US Made. </p>

www.ebay.com

RCBS 10-10 Reloading Powder Scale | eBay

Unit has been cleaned, tuned and tested, it will respond to one kernel of powder.

www.ebay.com

Several more on there.

 

[mtrmn]

I hadn't realized how deplorable the market conditions are for beam scales. Just browsed through several of my go-to reloading supply websites and didn't see a single beam scale that didn't look like a cheap POS. Just reinforced in my mind that "vintage" is the way to go.

 

[pmclaine]

Here are my 2 cents FWIW: I only load for accuracy and not volume, so I like beam scales and I weigh every charge. I also find beam scale loading relaxing (with music), almost like meditation - crazy, right? lol...

I did some level of research on the topic of scales before I jumped into reloading. My findings were that getting an accurate and consistent beam scale, of modern manufacture, was somewhat a roll of the dice.

So, I took a chance and purchased a Redding Model #2 scale and have been very happy with it to date. I checked it against another beam scale and a digital scale with two different sets of check weights, and the Redding has been money. The needle settles nicely around center so it makes trickling up each charge very easy and relatively quick.

If I had the time and inclination to shop around I would have looked at finding an older scale, or get one tuned by known good scale tuner. Fortunately I did not have too and may have got 'lucky' with the Redding.

I am currently loading with a powder that the Dillon is very consistent with. I check initial drop than do one or two QC checks as I pull the handle.

When I load 4895/4064 logs I go to trickling each case.

I cant use the RCBS pictured above because I trickle with the Dandy trickler and the electronic eye beam cut off. The design of the RCBS prevents using the Dandy Trickler so I resort to a Dillon....

Works absolutely fine for me, I am in no hurry when loading 30-06 and .308.

The electronic eye beam is reasonably easy to dial in.

I pull a powder charge from the Dillon just under my desired weight yet outside the error factor of the Dillon when dropping log powder. I set the eye beam to try and get exact but its usually a kernel or two under which I tease into the pan using the "jiggle" feature of the Dandy.

Looks "Rube Goldberg" as fuck but works pretty good for me.

 

[Dildobaggins]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/115160963224?hash=item1ad020d898:g:eek:KgAAOSwwIxhy2Za

RCBS 10-10 Reloading Powder Scale | eBay

Unit has been cleaned, tuned and tested, it will respond to one kernel of powder.

www.ebay.com

Several more on there.

Got a bid in. I don't think I'm going to win. They are going quick and high. I'll keep checking my email to see how much everyone is out bidding me by.

 

[Dildobaggins]

I am currently loading with a powder that the Dillon is very consistent with. I check initial drop than do one or two QC checks as I pull the handle.

When I load 4895/4064 logs I go to trickling each case.

I cant use the RCBS pictured above because I trickle with the Dandy trickler and the electronic eye beam cut off. The design of the RCBS prevents using the Dandy Trickler so I resort to a Dillon....

Works absolutely fine for me, I am in no hurry when loading 30-06 and .308.

The electronic eye beam is reasonably easy to dial in.

I pull a powder charge from the Dillon just under my desired weight yet outside the error factor of the Dillon when dropping log powder. I set the eye beam to try and get exact but its usually a kernel or two under which I tease into the pan using the "jiggle" feature of the Dandy.

Looks "Rube Goldberg" as fuck but works pretty good for me.

I'd be willing to try this scale as well. Been looking a little bit and no one has them in stock that I can find. That set up is awesome. I'm going to need to build another table. Haha

 

[Dildobaggins]

I got this RCBS off Ebay......came in the original box, original directions, looks new....too lazy to go downstairs and check out its designation product wise....

It is older than 30 years anyway and a fantastic beam scale. It closes up nice in its own little plastic cocoon to keep everything dust free. Made in the USA when we made shit in the USA.

Like Coleman lanterns and camping tables.....scales will now be bought from Ebay and they will be old but if I wait and bide my time they will be brand new pretty much and ten times better than the chinese replacement.

Forgive my stupidity, I'm incredibly new to this, but what is that mirror thing called on the front end of the scale? Is it so you don't have to bend over to get the reading?

 

[pmclaine]

Forgive my stupidity, I'm incredibly new to this, but what is that mirror thing called on the front end of the scale? Is it so you don't have to bend over to get the reading?

Its a prism Dandy used to sell so you can eliminate some parallax error in reading the indicator because you twist it in the two mounts to set it in a way that is comfortable to view and thus repeatable.

If anyone ever asks "Whats parallax error?" this kind of shows it.......

Am I a half grain over or dead nuts?

 

[Choid]

I am currently loading with a powder that the Dillon is very consistent with. I check initial drop than do one or two QC checks as I pull the handle.

When I load 4895/4064 logs I go to trickling each case.

I cant use the RCBS pictured above because I trickle with the Dandy trickler and the electronic eye beam cut off. The design of the RCBS prevents using the Dandy Trickler so I resort to a Dillon....

Works absolutely fine for me, I am in no hurry when loading 30-06 and .308.

The electronic eye beam is reasonably easy to dial in.

I pull a powder charge from the Dillon just under my desired weight yet outside the error factor of the Dillon when dropping log powder. I set the eye beam to try and get exact but its usually a kernel or two under which I tease into the pan using the "jiggle" feature of the Dandy.

Looks "Rube Goldberg" as fuck but works pretty good for me.

So you drop your powder from the powder measure into the case, then dump the case into the little pan, then trickle up from there, then back into the case?

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

This just seems insane to me. I got my chargemaster 1500 for 200 on the px. I have a v3 that I use but I keep the chargemaster as a backup and to weigh bullets sometimes. With the cost of a used chargemaster, it seems nuts to me to use a beam. To each his own, but the chargemaster will make some pretty decent ammo and is sooooo much easier. I know some guys just love reloading but I prefer shooting...

 

[pmclaine]

So you drop your powder from the powder measure into the case, then dump the case into the little pan, then trickle up from there, then back into the case?

Oh God, This fuckstain gets it.

Yep it seems choresome but I have no trust for electronic scales or Chargemaster type get ups.

Tried that early on in reloading and I dont know if its my lights, home heating system moving air, general condition of the electricity signal in my home but electronics sucked. I have no interest in buying a power conditioner.

Whats even more retarded is I have to pour from one pan to a second pan. I use this to pour back into the case.

I only have to do it with .308/30-06 because of the powders I use. I can usually load up about 60 rounds in a hours time going from clean machine back to a clean machine.

60 rounds is three range sessions.

I could probably put a powder through die and funnel in the powder check station after the drop but my OCD would have me thinking some powder got stuck in the drop somewhere and my carefully trickled measure would not be exact. From the RCBS pan with the funnel I can see each kernel fall into the case.

So against the whole idea of owning an S1050 but it works for me and I always have plenty of ammo on hand.

I am interested in trying 8208XBR in .308 but it looks like I will use all 8 pounds loading .223 this session. Still have the problem of having to feed an M1A and a LMT MWS which I prefer I4064 or I4895 for.

 

[Dildobaggins]

Buying a rcbs 10-10 off a gentleman on here. Thanks for all the help everyone. Learned quite a bit from this question.

 

[Dildobaggins]

Its a prism Dandy used to sell so you can eliminate some parallax error in reading the indicator because you twist it in the two mounts to set it in a way that is comfortable to view and thus repeatable.

If anyone ever asks "Whats parallax error?" this kind of shows it.......

Am I a half grain over or dead nuts?

That seems alot easier than the guys I see mounting cameras and tablets to do this...and alot cheaper unless that plate is made of gold.

 

[Im2bent]

I think the scale i am returning is dead nuts accurate, it's just like .3 grains off from the sticker and notches on the beam which is driving me nuts. I'll check that scale out as well. Thanks!

Are you adjusting the scale (leveling it} so it shows zero?

 

[Dildobaggins]

Are you adjusting the scale (leveling it} so it shows zero?

Leveling and zeroing it. I didn't explain well. The small and large poise on the scale don't line up with the sticker on the beam or the rivots. With the Lyman check weights, the 2 grain weights both weighed 2.3 grains. 10 grain was 10.3 etc. And half the time the sale won't go back to zero. I tried cleaning it and watching some videos, but I paid almost 100 dollars for it and it's just not a quality product.

 

[mtrmn]

This just seems insane to me. I got my chargemaster 1500 for 200 on the px. I have a v3 that I use but I keep the chargemaster as a backup and to weigh bullets sometimes. With the cost of a used chargemaster, it seems nuts to me to use a beam. To each his own, but the chargemaster will make some pretty decent ammo and is sooooo much easier. I know some guys just love reloading but I prefer shooting...

pmclaine answered:
"Yep it seems choresome but I have no trust for electronic scales or Chargemaster type get ups."

THIS^^^
What are you gonna do when the 2022 EMP hits and all your electronics are toast?

 

[spife7980]

pmclaine answered:
"Yep it seems choresome but I have no trust for electronic scales or Chargemaster type get ups."

THIS^^^
What are you gonna do when the 2022 EMP hits and all your electronics are toast?

I’m sure not going to be wasting my time manually weighing and taking peoples advice on the internet

 

[pmclaine]

 

[pmclaine]

From the Dillon....

 

[pmclaine]

Do you scale pan brah?

 

[Choid]

That literally may be the only 1050 in creation to be used like that. But it sounds like it works, which is the goal.

 

[Average guy]

Another good older RCBS scale is the 5-10. Made by Ohaus, has the micrometer style fine adjust like a 10-10. I don’t use mine much anymore but it’s a great scale. My dad has on that he bought in the early 70’s and he still uses it regularly today. Quality definitely doesn’t wear out.

 

[Dead Eye Dick]

This just seems insane to me. I got my chargemaster 1500 for 200 on the px. I have a v3 that I use but I keep the chargemaster as a backup and to weigh bullets sometimes. With the cost of a used chargemaster, it seems nuts to me to use a beam. To each his own, but the chargemaster will make some pretty decent ammo and is sooooo much easier. I know some guys just love reloading but I prefer shooting...

Our son has owned two chargemasters. Both of his drift during the reloading process. We Don’t Trust Them! They may be handy, but we check each and every charge they throw with a weight checked beam scale. Old may seem archaic but if the darned thing ain’t broke, why fix it. Truthfully, I find it quicker to throw a charge using a mechanical powder throw and then weight and then trickle if necessary then wait for the charge master.

And I am one who reloads so I can shoot. A necessary evil, especially when many of our rounds are wildcats or use bullet / cartridge combinations that are not factory loaded.

 

[mtrmn]

I’m sure not going to be wasting my time manually weighing and taking peoples advice on the internet

Yeah if we get EMP'd ain't nobody gonna be sitting around reloading anything but magazines

 

[HemiPowrd]

pmclaine answered:
"Yep it seems choresome but I have no trust for electronic scales or Chargemaster type get ups."

THIS^^^
What are you gonna do when the 2022 EMP hits and all your electronics are toast?

Use my Ohaus 10-10 that I bought as a backup scale for just that eventuality! I normally use an FX-120 / V3 autotrickler because using a balance scale is so tedious.

 

[pmclaine]

Buying a rcbs 10-10 off a gentleman on here. Thanks for all the help everyone. Learned quite a bit from this question.

Hope you didn't pay more than $25 considering appreciation....

 

[Dildobaggins]

Hope you didn't pay more than $25 considering appreciation....

View attachment 7775152

Lol you joking right? Go on eBay and see what these scales are going for. I put a bid on one for $130 and was out bid 30 seconds later. Show me one scale that is under $50 and I'll buy it and send it to you.

 

[chase723]

Load a couple rounds with a beam scale so you know how and then keep it for posterity. Then, go buy 3 ChargeMasters. They are more consistently accurate/precise under most conditions compared to a beam scale and save ridiculous amounts of time. Beam scales are highly dependent on several things to be both accurate and consistent and it’s too easy to be way off. If you don’t think so, weigh 5-10 charges out on a beam scale and then compare it to the charges thrown on a ChargeMaster. It’s pretty easy to get 0.2-0.3gr variation on a beam scale. Your ChargeMaster will be within 0.1gr.

What I’ve found that helps when using ChargeMasters aside from changing the settings to get them to throw faster is 1) calibrate the scale every time you use it 2) when you calibrate them use the same set of check weights 3) intermittently check them throughout your reloading cycle with a check weight or bullet of known weight (alternatively, when you remove a charge look at the (-) weight of the pan displayed. Should always be the same). 4) If you think you have a little drift, dump it in the pan of the adjacent ChargeMaster and check. If one reads different, dump it in the 3rd. Sometimes for whatever reason you need to recalibrate one mid session. Not a big deal though considering the massive amount of time they save. Having 2 is nice. Having 3 is definitely better. Having 4 might be ideal.

 

[Dildobaggins]

Load a couple rounds with a beam scale so you know how and then keep it for posterity. Then, go buy 3 ChargeMasters. They are more consistently accurate/precise under most conditions compared to a beam scale and save ridiculous amounts of time. Beam scales are highly dependent on several things to be both accurate and consistent and it’s too easy to be way off. If you don’t think so, weigh 5-10 charges out on a beam scale and then compare it to the charges thrown on a ChargeMaster. It’s pretty easy to get 0.2-0.3gr variation on a beam scale. Your ChargeMaster will be within 0.1gr.

What I’ve found that helps when using ChargeMasters aside from changing the settings to get them to throw faster is 1) calibrate the scale every time you use it 2) when you calibrate them use the same set of check weights 3) intermittently check them throughout your reloading cycle with a check weight or bullet of known weight (alternatively, when you remove a charge look at the (-) weight of the pan displayed. Should always be the same). 4) If you think you have a little drift, dump it in the pan of the adjacent ChargeMaster and check. If one reads different, dump it in the 3rd. Sometimes for whatever reason you need to recalibrate one mid session. Not a big deal though considering the massive amount of time they save. Having 2 is nice. Having 3 is definitely better. Having 4 might be ideal.

. I said I don't want to nut up the money to buy 1 charge master, let alone multiple charge masters. Why not buy 1 charge master and have a beam scale and use those to compare off of eachother?

 

[MarkyMark007]

Load a couple rounds with a beam scale so you know how and then keep it for posterity. Then, go buy 3 ChargeMasters. They are more consistently accurate/precise under most conditions compared to a beam scale and save ridiculous amounts of time. Beam scales are highly dependent on several things to be both accurate and consistent and it’s too easy to be way off. If you don’t think so, weigh 5-10 charges out on a beam scale and then compare it to the charges thrown on a ChargeMaster. It’s pretty easy to get 0.2-0.3gr variation on a beam scale. Your ChargeMaster will be within 0.1gr.

What I’ve found that helps when using ChargeMasters aside from changing the settings to get them to throw faster is 1) calibrate the scale every time you use it 2) when you calibrate them use the same set of check weights 3) intermittently check them throughout your reloading cycle with a check weight or bullet of known weight (alternatively, when you remove a charge look at the (-) weight of the pan displayed. Should always be the same). 4) If you think you have a little drift, dump it in the pan of the adjacent ChargeMaster and check. If one reads different, dump it in the 3rd. Sometimes for whatever reason you need to recalibrate one mid session. Not a big deal though considering the massive amount of time they save. Having 2 is nice. Having 3 is definitely better. Having 4 might be ideal.

decent beam scales are ~3 times more precise than your charge master. but you dont know that because your charge master is lying and drifting.
if you buy good scale (1000$+), than you will see how horrible is charge master. but by than, you wont know...

RCBS M500 is probably one of the best beam scales right now (but far worse than the older ones), but you must know how to mess with it and you must know what weighting is.
maybe it's not linear from 0 to 500gr, but you MUST have check weights around your charge weight and set it there. not set ZERO and than move to 55gr of charge. this is wrong, because like I said, maybe it isn't linear.
I remove some weights in the pan for ZERO-ing to get better linearity to my charges, but even that, everytime i weight, i set setting screw to my calibration weight which is near my charge weight.
only by that you will get precise and accurate charge EVERY TIME.

yes, a lot of work. if you dont want to do it, get autotricler and fx-120i for this range of accuracy, not chargemaster.

 

[chase723]

. I said I don't want to nut up the money to buy 1 charge master, let alone multiple charge masters. Why not buy 1 charge master and have a beam scale and use those to compare off of eachother?

Lol. You can, but what’s your time worth? Seems like RCBS has a sale once a year where ChargeMasters can be had for $189 (rebates etc). Used ones in the PX are also reasonably priced.

 

[mtrmn]

So Chargemasters are so unreliable you have to have 3 or 4 of them, yet they are more accurate and so much faster than a beam?
I wouldn't know because I don't own one, just wondering if I'm even smart enough to understand this argument.

 

[Choid]

I'm trying to figure out how unreliable you guys think Chargemasters are, and how much velocity change you think there is if they are charging loads with a SD of .1 grains.

 

[supercorndogs]

Having multiple Charemasters is to speed up dispensing powder. The +/- of .1 on the Charemaster is not holding back 99% of shooters, and is more than accurate enough for shooting PRS. My biggest complaint with the Charemaster is that its so much slower than throwing charges.

 

[supercorndogs]

decent beam scales are ~3 times more precise than your charge master. but you dont know that because your charge master is lying and drifting.
if you buy good scale (1000$+), than you will see how horrible is charge master. but by than, you wont know...

RCBS M500 is probably one of the best beam scales right now (but far worse than the older ones), but you must know how to mess with it and you must know what weighting is.
maybe it's not linear from 0 to 500gr, but you MUST have check weights around your charge weight and set it there. not set ZERO and than move to 55gr of charge. this is wrong, because like I said, maybe it isn't linear.
I remove some weights in the pan for ZERO-ing to get better linearity to my charges, but even that, everytime i weight, i set setting screw to my calibration weight which is near my charge weight.
only by that you will get precise and accurate charge EVERY TIME.

yes, a lot of work. if you dont want to do it, get autotricler and fx-120i for this range of accuracy, not chargemaster.

If I don't know, then I can't see it on the target, so why should I care?

 

[Steel head]

A almost must have in my opinion is a 10-10, 5-0-5 and I believe Lyman had a similar model.

I use other scales for speed and convenience but my 5-0-5 keeps them honest and help friends new to reloading.

 

[Choid]

A good powder throw is probably more than sufficient for nearly every application. I just tested the change in SD on 308 going from a v3 discarding all non "perfect" charges, and using a powder throw that gave me a thirty throw SD of .12 grains. The ammo on target at 100m was identical, and the SD went from 9 with the weighted charges, to 12 with the thrown charges. Each person has to determine what is "good enough" for him, but it's a mistake to assume linear effects for variance in charge weights and velocities. Charge wise my coefficient of variation went up by 10x, while velocity wise it went up by 33%.

Balance beams are like an abacus. Fun to learn in the third grade, and then put them away.