School me on 9mm & 40sw bullets and primers

timelinex

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
  • May 7, 2011
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    Scottsdale,Az
    I'm gonna be reloading soon for my new glock 22 in 40s&w and also for its lone wolf conversion barrel in 9mm. This is my first time reloading anything other than rifle cartridges. The brass I'm using is mixed range brass. My purpose is shooting at the range and at steel. Considering how rare I will ever encounter a defense situation, I will just buy a box of self defense ammo to test and keep the rest forever. My accuracy requirements are not competition, but I don't want shotgun pattern either. I plan on using titegroup powder, since i read it can be used in both cartridges (yes I know to be careful to not double charge)

    My last part that I have to figure out is bullets and primers. What economical bullets do I look for?? Seems like there are 100 different grain and brand choices. Also, what primers?



    So if someone was to ask me this question for rifles , my answer would easy 168/175 smk for 308, 55gr hornady or 77gr smk for 223 depending on application. Obviosuly there are many more hoices , but those are the most wodely used and theres a reason for it. Hopefully that clears up what I am looking for.
     
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    I shoot IDPA and load titegroup under 124gn hand cast lead bullet from a lee mould. Not a bullseye load obviously but plenty accurate for my needs. Another nice aspect is if you cast your own your not at the mercy of bullet manufacturers in times like these. Well that is as long as you have a good supply of wheel weights. As for primers I use whatever I can find at this point but prefer Winchester or CCI.
     
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    Look into Montana Gold bullets. Awesome bullets and can usually be had for just a little more money than plated bullets. Only problem is going to be finding anything in stock really. Even Berry's bullets website is saying they're 6-8 months behind. At this point it's really anything you can scrounge up. I use CCI and Winchester primers in my .40 S&W and have not noticed any difference. But SP primers are also made of unobtanium at the moment.
     
    The Glock's can be problematic with lead bullets. I am not sure about the plated ones. The plated bullets are about twice the price of lead. If you want or need jacketed, the price per bullet is a lot higher.

    I shoot a lot of lead bullets in my guns, 9mm, .40 S&W, and .45. I used to load WW 231 in all three (same powder is Hodgdon HP-38). But after some testing, we switched to HS-6 for .40 in Sig 229 pistols. I still use WW231 for 9mm and .45.

    As for primers, whatever you can get. I have loaded all three with CCI, Winchester, and WW. Possibly over the years even some Federal. It doesn't seem to make much of a difference.
     
    Ok, so the weight of the bullets doesn't really matter for my purpose?

    I know I have to shoot jacketed bullets for the 40 since it will be a stock barrel. Since the 9mm will be a lone wolf barrel, I should be able to shoot anything,including cast, thru it correct?

    Lastly, what about wolf primers? I know that their large rifle primers are not so good, but that their 223 primers are Great. What about their small pistol primers?
     
    Yeah I would shoot cast in both but I more then likely would just buy an after market barrel for the .40 as well.

    With the difference in price and current availability of lead bullets it will more then pay for itself in a couple thousand rounds, that is
    if you shoot that much.

    I shoot lead in all my pistols, a couple of them are polygonal barrels. For some reason when it comes to .40 S&W I will not buy
    a gun or load for that caliber, EVER.

    As for wolf primers, I have shot about 10K in the last year with no problems. If you have lightened springs in any gun you might have issues
    but other then that all their primers have been 100% for me.

    As for bullet weight, if a 124 doesn't work in a 9mm its prob the shooter
     
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    I use 124g rainier plated HP bullets for 9mm and 180g rainier PHP bullets in 40s&w. I load them both with power pistol and whatever primers I can find. They shoot great for me out of a glock 22, glock 26, and Keltec sub 2000 40cal
     
    I don't shoot .40 cal, but I shoot a crap load of 9mm. What the others have said rings true for me as well with the exception of the Win231 powder which I find to be way too sooty for me. I had a little bit of foresight and stocked up on several of my favorite bullet choices which include 115, and 124 gr. plated Xtreme's, and I also have quite a few Zero 125 and 147 JHP's. I have shot thousands of the Montana Gold 124 JHP's and for the money, they are really very hard to beat, but like everything else, they appear to be pretty hard to find right now. I do not shoot cast bullets.

    For powder, the best bang for the buck in my opinion is Win WSF. It is a shotgun powder that has just the right burn rate for 9mm, and can be loaded to +P pressure (compressed) in 9mm. There are a lot of guys who like to use Win WST powder for 9mm as well, which is a little hotter than WSF, but either will do just fine. I prefer WSF.

    My pet load in all of my 9's is 4.9gr WSF under a 124gr JHP using CCI400 primers. Yes... CCI400's which are small rifle primers. I shoot a lot of action pistol, and that load is absolutely what works best for me. I have chrono'd it @ 1280 FPS out of my CZ75 SP01 (4.7" barrel) and it bangs the steel nicely. I have logged close to 9000 rounds in less than a year using that combo. The best part about it is that it meters exceptionally well through my Dillon powder measure on the 1050.

    The biggest problem with WSF or WST is there is not a lot of pistol load data out there for it, so you have to work up your own load, but it is definitely economical powder if you plan on shooting lots of 9mm. I have tried various small pistol primers, and they all seem to work well, but I like the hardness of the CCI400's so I stick with them. That and they seem to tolerate the faster loading speeds I can reach with the Dillon 1050.
     
    Gen 2 G-22, Walther P99 in .40 and a 92FS.

    I don't shoot lead out of my G22 (or any of my guns) but with frequent cleaning, it's not a problem. Since you have a LW barrel, that's not a problem for you either.

    Plated bullets generally get loaded to lead bullet velocities to keep leading down.

    I like jacketed bullets and have a large stash built up over 18 years, so I'm shooting for less, but things are spendy now for pistol bullets, especially the nicer ones.

    I'm considering some 230gr lead, some 180g lead and even some 9mm lead, but haven't found anything yet. Plated bullets are starting to creep up into jacketed territory and that's if you can even find things now.

    Any of the common pistol powders will suffice. The great thing about pistol powder is, is that you can try 4-5 different pounds and those will last you 10,0000 rounds, lol.

    Chris
     
    I dont think montana gold is even accepting orders anymore I have had an order in for probably 3 months now with no joy and the item I ordered was in stock when I placed the order.

    I just placed an order for a bunch of bullets from Berry's Manufacturing. They are plated not jacketed but its really not that big of a deal. I will likely be loading them with Bullseye just because it was what I was able to find I would be quite happy using Tite group as well.
     
    Ok, so the weight of the bullets doesn't really matter for my purpose?

    I know I have to shoot jacketed bullets for the 40 since it will be a stock barrel. Since the 9mm will be a lone wolf barrel, I should be able to shoot anything,including cast, thru it correct?

    Lastly, what about wolf primers? I know that their large rifle primers are not so good, but that their 223 primers are Great. What about their small pistol primers?


    I've been shooting ONLY wolf and tula primers for about four or five years, not a single problem, none, which is better than I can say for CCI. And I only run Dillon's so the way they pack them is a plus for using a tube-picker-upper.

    And I shoot craploads of cast 180's from my bone stock G23, never have had an issue, I read the entire book that came with mine and didn't see a word about lead.

    But that's just me, I'm sure a million people will tell you it can't be done.


    sean
     
    180gr Rainiers with any small pistol primers you can find. Rainiers are all I use for USPSA in my Edge. You can download the Titegroup to about 3.2gr for minor PF and it will be like shooting a 9mm.
     
    Ill second that their is nothing wrong with Tula/Wolf Primers. I shoot IDPA so Im not worried about bulleye accuracy. I shoot Frontiers in 124 and Precision Delta in 124 for 9mm and 180 Precison Delta in 40. I plan on going to home cast lead bullets for the 9mm to try and save money. Ive only used Titegroup with plated and jacketed bullets. Going to lead im going to have to try something else as Lead and Titegroup are not friends. Regardless of what you go with go cheap as your probably not going to shoot this ammo at Camp Perry.
     
    If you are using range pickup 40 brass, make sure you run it through a bulge buster die before sizing. I use a Redding GRX for my 40 brass, and it works well. It is one extra step though. I have heard that 9mm can get away without it, but no personal experience there, as I don't reload for 9. I also use Titegroup and Berrys in my G35, to keep costs down.
     
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    Lastly, what about wolf primers? I know that their large rifle primers are not so good, but that their 223 primers are Great. What about their small pistol primers?

    I've been using Wolf (now Tula) for several years. Large Rifle, Small Pistol, .223 Small Rifle, all without problems. I did have a couple of misfires with some LRP's but on closer examination I found that it was a combination of sizing die adjustment, primer pockets cut too deep (from uniforming) and a seating tool that was dishing he face of the primer.

    I found the Wolf LRP's to be every bit as consistent as BR-2's and Fed GMM primers when chronographing loads. I stocked up on them HEAVILY when they sold for as little as $15/thousand.

    As for 9mm bullet weight I prefer the 124gr. Seems to "match" 9mm's I own best. A Sig and a CZ shoot them right on my natural point of aim while the 115's and 147's shoot above and below the 124's.

    I order Montana Gold 124 gr JHP's by the case and was lucky enough to have just ordered before the insanity began.

    More and more might well have to consider casting in order to keep themselves in bullets. That's assuming that one can find the "Lead" (alloys) before the hoarders/scalpers clean those supplies out too.
     
    The 180's are a very versatile bullet for the .40 as it can be loaded for both major and minor loads. Titegroup is excellent for the major loads and you can even use a SRP which some say gives an extra few FPS and thus requires a tad bit less powder...for a super soft load (minor power factor) Clays and a 180gr. bullet is awesome.

    In 9mm it is a matter of personal preference of recoil between the 124's (more snappy) and 147's (more of a push) feel.
     
    .40 S&W

    Bullet: 165 grain Rainier flat point
    Brass: various
    Primer: CCI small pistol
    Powder: Winchester 231, 4.8 grains
    COAL: 1.123"

    Shot a couple of thousand of these loads through my Sigs, Kahr, and Glock. Never so much as a hiccup. No bulged cases, no FTE, nothing but bang.
     
    Thanks for the advice guys. So what other powder can you recommend that I can use in both 40 and 9mm?

    I know titegroup is an option, but if theres another option that isn't as dangerous to reload (overcharging), I would rather stick with that. I'm not really worried about having to use more powder, considering its extremely cheap per round.
     
    HP-38/W231 rocks.

    Its versatile as hell meters like water and can be used for a ton of popular cartridges.

    9mm shines with Power Pistol but I wouldn't waste it on cheap-ish plinking lead reloads right now.

    Unique is a nice option if you can find it right now, same with Clays.
     
    I love Power Pistol for both and you can't double charge. I don't know my velocities but I know they have to be moving pretty good as I shoot them at 100 yards just for the fun of it on occasion and they shoot pretty flat. 180's for 40 and 124's in 9mm
     
    I looked into power pistol and it looks like a reat alternative, except for One big complaint from people. They say the muzzle flash is enormous. How bad is it really? Is this something you will even notice during the day?
     
    Yea PP is loud and throws a flash, even out doors.

    It is noticeably louder then most powders out there and it seems that Alliant completely left out flash suppressants. I am sure that there are videos
    on youtube to show you the difference.

    Power pistol is cheap usually when its available, its also a clean burning powder.
     
    HP-38/W231 rocks.

    Its versatile as hell meters like water and can be used for a ton of popular cartridges.

    9mm shines with Power Pistol but I wouldn't waste it on cheap-ish plinking lead reloads right now.

    Unique is a nice option if you can find it right now, same with Clays.
    After some research, it looks like hp38/W231 takes the win. It seems like most people put it on the same level as titegroup, but a smaller chance to double charge.
     
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    I have been using 244/125 grain bullets in my 9mm for about a decade now. In my 40 (HK P2K) I have had good luck with 165 grain bullets (flat nose). I have had the best experiences with Win 231 (very similar to HP-38) on a dillon (650) powder measure. My go to bullet for 9mm is the precision delta 124 grain pills. My 40 is leftover (bought 4K) IMI bullets I got from Widners in December of 2011. I probably switch over to PD when it is all said and done.