Rifle Scopes scope bases

Litshoot

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Minuteman
Apr 25, 2014
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What difference does the scope base make to accuracy. A decent low end 1 piece rail vs a high end 1 piece rail specifically.
I'm trying to simplify this to as much as possible. I'm about to finally finish a remington 700 project and the last needed piece is a scope base, I want a 20moa 1 piece that I will bed to the action. I am not using qd rings or mounts so once it's on it will not move.
Thanks for any help

Seth
 
Usually, you'll see differences in the height of one rail vs. another. I have three 20 MOA rails, a Badger, a TPS and a Ken Farrell. All are machined to differing heights, with the Badger sitting the lowest on the rail, followed by the TPS and finally the KF.

Anything machined within spec, should do the same thing for you, but for height.

Chris
 
I've used several EGW aluminum rails.
I'm sure they're not good enough for some Hiders, but they were straight and machined like a good alloy when I opened up the holes for #8 screws.
This tool & die maker would use them again.

2 weeks ago I installed a NightForce steel rail on a friend's R700.
It was also straight, required no bedding, and had a recoil lug (unlike the EGWs which I pinned with stainless steel dowel pins).
I'm not sure that made it worth 3 times what the EGW cost me, but it's another way to go.
 
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I've used a variety of brands from EGW up to Ken Farrell and so far haven't seen any that are not straight, prior to installation. (Most if not all required bedding to still be straight after installation.) At the lower price end I've been happy with TPS rails, which are $60 or so, but I will probably use Ken Farrell on just about everything going forward. The EGW I used had no problems, but I prefer a steel rail.

I would guess that more expensive rails would have smaller tolerances so that any two slots are more nearly parallel and there is a perfect right angle between the slots and the long axis, but I have not attempted to measure this, and I would also guess that even lower priced rails (at least down to the EGW price range) should hold these requirements just fine.
 
Accuracy is about variables and consistency. Scope, rings, bases, trigger, marksmanship and environmental. There are many more, but you get the idea. The concept is to remove as many inconsistent variables as possible.

Can you be accurate with an EGW, or Weaver base? Sure, but it is best to set your scope correctly one time and then dont mess with it. Use a torque driver, bed it if you have to. Take your time and get it right the first time. Once you are happy, leave it alone.

I use Warne, as they are less expensive, made of steel in the good ol' USA. I use steel because I am always messing with my rifles. Musical scopes and mixing and matching components.

If you look in the Nightforce operating manual, they suggest Warne or Talley as an alternative to Nightforce products. Those are not walmart specials, but right there in the middle.


http://nightforceoptics.com/pdf/OwnersManual.pdf