Rifle Scopes Scope Leveling Jig
- Thread starter Dtarget
- Start date
You can buy adjustable parallels in a number of sizes that will work and they are relatively cheap.
Of course, you still need parallel surfaces to work with.
I still prefer to use a plumb line.
Of course, you still need parallel surfaces to work with.
I still prefer to use a plumb line.
I have that Arisaka tool. But I've never been able to use it because it won't fit under any of my scopes lol. Your scope needs to be mounted like 10 feet off your rail in order to use it. Even with the "small" version (which I have), I can only get just a tiny bit of the tip in (ha!). If you have a typical 5-25x or similar long-range scope mounted in rings... the Arisaka won't work.
A deck of playing cards is what I use now. Takes all of 2 minutes to mount a scope with 'em. Though feeler gauges might be better because playing cards are a bit flexible and can bend when the scope wants to rotate.
A deck of playing cards is what I use now. Takes all of 2 minutes to mount a scope with 'em. Though feeler gauges might be better because playing cards are a bit flexible and can bend when the scope wants to rotate.
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That is exactly why I use the BO Dead level because of issues like what FourT described.
With the Dead Level you don't even need the weapon present. Mount your rings to the rail for correct spacing, mount scope, level, tighten caps and done.
With the Dead Level you don't even need the weapon present. Mount your rings to the rail for correct spacing, mount scope, level, tighten caps and done.
Well... you need the weapon present if your rail is integral lol
A deck of cards has worked well for me. No need to overthink this.
Yes you are correct the deck of cards works fine also.
You got me on the integral rail? Unless it not a Picatinny....other wise you mount your rings and go. You can adjust eye relief by moving the scope forward or aft
by moving to different slots when you get your scope home or out in the field. That's how I do it for myself and others.
You got me on the integral rail? Unless it not a Picatinny....other wise you mount your rings and go. You can adjust eye relief by moving the scope forward or aft
by moving to different slots when you get your scope home or out in the field. That's how I do it for myself and others.
Deck of cards or feeler gauges followed by tall target test to ensure scope reticle is aligned to the fall of gravity when the rifle is shouldered.
Exactly what he said. I have one of the aristikas also and I think I've been able to use it once maybe. You Can't got wrong with a set of feeler gauges. I still verify with a straight edge against the reticle but I've never had an issue with it.
Two answers to this:
1) To get the scope parallel to the receiver, use feeler gauges.
2) To get the reticle plumb, get behind the rifle holding it properly while looking through the optic and adjust the position of the reticle to be in line with a plumb line downrange, regardless of if the scope is canted in relation to the receiver.
1) To get the scope parallel to the receiver, use feeler gauges.
2) To get the reticle plumb, get behind the rifle holding it properly while looking through the optic and adjust the position of the reticle to be in line with a plumb line downrange, regardless of if the scope is canted in relation to the receiver.
This seems like the 'only' option of those mentioned that addresses Frank's article on the front page about scope vs rifle cant. Do you use 25, 50, 100 yards/meters for the plumb line? Bipod or bags?
