Rifle Scopes Scope-Leveling Troubleshooting

[Areeves08]

The rifle is a Browning X-Bolt Hells Canyon LR in 270WSM. I opted for Talley Lightweight Scope Mounts to eliminate having a rail and because they matched the Burnt Bronze Cerakote. I quickly mounted my LRTS for a hunt, but was not confident that the scope was mounted as well as it should be. I struggled to find an area on the action where I could place a level, so I used the bottom half of the rings as my reference. The problem was the rings were far from level. The front and rear were off by 3-4* L to R and placing the level inline with the bore, it just teetered to one side or the other. I used a plumb bob for the reticle, but had no verification that the action was truly level.

I think the issue is in one of two places, the mounting holes for the rings, or the rings themselves. What I don't want to do is buy a set of Hawkins Hybrids only to find out its the mounting holes, but if there is a way I can level the action otherwise, do the Talley's really need to be level?

Long winded I know, but I'm having trouble coming up with a plan to correct the issue. I appreciate your feedback.

 

[waveslayer]

I know at one time Wheeler sold a level that would fit inside an action, for scope mounting. My ugly twin has one, not sure how accurate it is?.... can you eye ball the action and barrel level and secure it? Then use the plumb level?

 

[EXTREMEPREJUDICE]

Just use a plumb line and get into your natural/comfortable position behind the rifle and level the reticle to the line. That's what you'll do in the field anyway unless you have a level mounted to the rifle.

 

[Strykervet]

The kit I have, a Wheeler, has two levels, both are adj. The small magnetic one has set screws on either side. The big one has bolts on either side and goes on the end of the barrel. It'll fit most anything. The small level goes on the action first and the other goes on the barrel. When they're both reading the same, the scope goes on and the small level goes on the scope. Then you just level it out to match the level on the barrel which has been leveled to the action. I've only used it once or twice so I think I explained it right. Instructions come with it. It's the best method I have.

I guess a wire and a plumb bob at some distance would be ideal for fine tuning, if you didn't torque the cap screws, but you'd still have to level the action first.

I also use these levels to install the anti cant levels that go around the scope. They're pretty handy to have.

Another way of doing it (this comes from a manufacturer) is to use feeler gauges *snug* between the action or top rail (their erector housing is squared off and level on the bottom) while the ring caps are being installed. Doesn't matter if the rifle is perfectly level or not, does assume the action or rail is level, or perpendicular to the receiver. It works, but for some reason I just don't get a warm and fuzzy doing it that way. I guess in a pinch it's good to known though.

 

[MOUNTIC]

On bolt rifles such as yours I would level the rifle in a vice or sled or something first. Scope off, caps off. Place the level on the top of one of the rings (cap off). Secure the rifle in a vice or sled. Now your rifle is level and secure, place scope in rings and level the scope to a plumb line. That's how I do it on bolt guns like yours.