So I've been using the Vortex branded scope levels and they work fine.
should I be trying the Accuracy 1st? I read years ago that it sometimes "sticks" and the ball needs a light shake to work.
Does it make a difference whether it's:
aluminum or printed?
rail mounted vs ring on scope?
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
(I am not interested in anything electronic)
Considering trying the MK polymer rail mounted to try
I struggle not for easy targets at distance, but if the target itself is crooked I struggle to NOT make my reticle line up perpendicular with the crooked target. Why I struggle to trust my brain because I feel my eyes play tricks on me sometimes. I think I'm straight... but then I realize I'm way off according to my bubble level and then realize the target is canted.
an older thread if anyone wants to do more reading:
should I be trying the Accuracy 1st? I read years ago that it sometimes "sticks" and the ball needs a light shake to work.
Does it make a difference whether it's:
aluminum or printed?
rail mounted vs ring on scope?
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
(I am not interested in anything electronic)
Considering trying the MK polymer rail mounted to try
I struggle not for easy targets at distance, but if the target itself is crooked I struggle to NOT make my reticle line up perpendicular with the crooked target. Why I struggle to trust my brain because I feel my eyes play tricks on me sometimes. I think I'm straight... but then I realize I'm way off according to my bubble level and then realize the target is canted.
an older thread if anyone wants to do more reading:
Anti-Cant Bubble Level
Hi Folks! New here to this community. 56 years old, live in Pennsylvania all my life. Been around firearms of all types since I was born. My grandfather and father had a gunshop business. Been in the woods along side my Pap & Dad since I was about 7 years old. That being said, I don't...
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