Rifle Scopes Scope rings for my AR10

JWrath1VP

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Sep 25, 2014
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Hi guys!

I’m new to the site and am working on a precision AR10 build. I’m putting a vortex razor gen 2 4.5-27x56 on my gun. im looking at purchasing a 20MOA 1 piece mount. So far I’ve been looking at Geissele mounts. There several options though and I’m not sure what one to go with. Do you guys have any suggestions on what to go with Or any other good options? Thanks.

take care,
Jon
 
I just did a crap ton of research on one piece mounts. Geissele makes a good one, I wouldn't be at all scared of getting one. If you want all the extras, leveling bubbles and the like, Spuhr, Tier One EU, and Aadland Engineering are a few good names. Larue and Vortex also make great mounts much like the Geissele. I found a good used Aadland mount on here It's all in how much you want to spend, really, there's a good mount for every budget.
 
I think SPUHR makes 34mm mounts with 20MOA cant built in...KAC’s 34mm provides 6 mils (19 minutes) of cant as well. Can’t go wrong with Geissele either.
 
I would personally go with a Spuhr mount over the Geissele. I feel like, atleast with the Spuhr you are actually getting an extremely solid mount that will hold your scope perfectly compared to the Geissele also has that "name brand" effect to the price.
 
I would personally go with a Spuhr mount over the Geissele. I feel like, atleast with the Spuhr you are actually getting an extremely solid mount that will hold your scope perfectly compared to the Geissele also has that "name brand" effect to the price.

Name brand effect? I have heard nothing but good things about Geissele mounts from people who use them rather agressively.

Personally, I mostly use Aadmount.

ILya
 
Name brand effect? I have heard nothing but good things about Geissele mounts from people who use them rather agressively.

Personally, I mostly use Aadmount.

ILya


I'm not saying they aren't good. They are. I just think that a $200 cantilever is just as good as a Geissele. Now I haven't tested them, and I could be wrong. I just think the Spuhr i have is more than worth the $50 extra over the Geissele I had
 
I'm not saying they aren't good. They are. I just think that a $200 cantilever is just as good as a Geissele. Now I haven't tested them, and I could be wrong. I just think the Spuhr i have is more than worth the $50 extra over the Geissele I had

Which $200 mount are you referring to?

I've looked at a lot of different single piece mounts, cantilevered and otherwise. They are not all created equal and generally there is a reason some cost more than others. To be fair, I have not looked at all of them, so it is entirely possible there are affordable mounts out there that work perfectly.

If you do not care much about return to zero, or the number of recoil cycles is not too high, a $200 one should do fine. Generally, more expensive mounts are more expensive for a reason. Sometimes, that is due to extra features. Sometimes it is the quality of the machining and the finish. Geisselle, for example, has comparatively involved machining because they were trying to keep the weight down without compromising stiffness. Most of the time, I do not need those features, so I do not want to pay for them. I do care about absolute durability, return to zero when remounting, scope slipping in the rings and weight. I am willing to pay for that.

ILya
 
Adm, seekins, luepold mk4 all below $200. And maybe I don't use my rifles (ar's) as hard as some guys out there.

But If I had the choice to spend another $100 on a Geissele or spend another $150 on a Spuhr, I think I would get a more heavy duty mount for the money by going with the Spuhr.

Now i guess if you were trying to save weight, then yes the Geissele would be a top choice.
 
I have two Larue quick release mounts and one Mid-west industries quick release mount all have worked very well and all of them have good return to zero. I have tested that more than a few times. Plus seem durable through numerous tip overs, bumps etc.
 
I'm using the 0 MOA version of this on two AR-10s. US made from 6061 aluminum with steel inserts for the screws. The fit and finish are first rate. I can't see this thing ever failing.

 
Nightforce
Badger
LaRue
Spuhr

All make quality mounts and come in at different price levels. Find one that offers the height you need and that falls within your budget. Get the appropriate set of FixIt Sticks torque limiters (if you don’t have them already) and you’re done. None of them will fail you and will handle more abuse than your optic can take.
 
Have you considered the SPERM, no wait, I meant SPRM??? I hear that's a good one just don't get it close to your eyes. Oh wait, you need 20 MOA, nevermind...
We're going to have 20's eventually. The zeros (vertical skus) will give you whatever the base has, most bases aren't flat anymore. The 15's are for gas guns and are cantilevered. Gas guns typically get used for mid range 1-600ish 99% of the time, and we want people to have good experiences getting zeroed and having functional optics, not running out of dope and not getting on paper at 100 yards with XYZ optic.

I get it some of the guys here will run GAP10's and stuff out closer to 1000, but they are the minority and with many optics that will be possible inside the travel range with a 15MOA mount.

I attended two DOS DDM courses and we wouldn't shoot a 20" SR25 past 800 yards, and the guns are just barely practical out there, and the more common barrels are 16" now with more like a realistic and practical 650-700 yard range so the 15MOA mounts were intended to be practical and to respect the optical center of an optical system and give shooters better optical performance for the majority of work.
 
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I'm using the 0 MOA version of this on two AR-10s. US made from 6061 aluminum with steel inserts for the screws. The fit and finish are first rate. I can't see this thing ever failing.

We tested the 8-40 fasteners in our mount with good quality Whera?(SIC) T15 bits and the bits failed before we were able to strip them out. We were up around 70 in/lbs, mangling T15's and unable to get screws or threads to fail. You don't need the inserts if the threads are thread form tapped- the threads gain a little strength from work hardening, and the 8-40 is a very fine thread, meaning the threads are very strong. That's 3 times the ideal 20in/lb torque without stripping them out.

You'll shear the head off a driver, or mangle the driver before you damage the threads using most bits.

The Aadmount looks nice though, and I'm sure it's a great product. I appreciate people who overbuild stuff- it's the right way to engineer products. Ideal customer interaction is the customer never having issues with the product.

When we were partnered with ADM years ago, they mentioned their 8-32 screws would shear off around 25-30 in/lbs. That's unacceptable IMO. That's way too close to 18in lbs and inside the relm of an easy mistake for the customer to make. The fine pitch #8 is way beefier, and way more durable- the thread root leaves more metal on the fasteners and the fine pitch has better ultimate strength.

Leupold and PRI use 8-40's and it makes sense. We used them in our E-TAC rings and are using them in SPRM2 mounts. Those screws are insanely tough.
 
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We tested the 8-40 fasteners in our mount with good quality Whera?(SIC) T15 bits and the bits failed before we were able to strip them out. We were up around 70 in/lbs, mangling T15's and unable to get screws or threads to fail. You don't need the inserts if the threads are thread form tapped- the threads gain a little strength from work hardening, and the 8-40 is a very fine thread, meaning the threads are very strong. That's 3 times the ideal 20in/lb torque without stripping them out.

You'll shear the head off a driver, or mangle the driver before you damage the threads using most bits.

The Aadmount looks nice though, and I'm sure it's a great product. I appreciate people who overbuild stuff- it's the right way to engineer products. Ideal customer interaction is the customer never having issues with the product.

When we were partnered with ADM years ago, they mentioned their 8-32 screws would shear off around 25-30 in/lbs. That's unacceptable IMO. That's way too close to 18in lbs and inside the relm of an easy mistake for the customer to make. The fine pitch #8 is way beefier, and way more durable- the thread root leaves more metal on the fasteners and the fine pitch has better ultimate strength.

Leupold and PRI use 8-40's and it makes sense. We used them in our E-TAC rings and are using them in SPRM2 mounts. Those screws are insanely tough.


Your mount looks very stout. However, the Warne mount I linked here is rock solid and under $100 for the 0-MOA version. And more importantly, nothing squirts into your eyes when you use it.
 
I prefer QD Mounts on AR's. I like the ERA-TAC and have had excellent experience with them, they also offer great accessories that can be mounted to the ring tops, I also like ARC M10 QD-L mounts for their simplicity yet outstanding rigidity and RTZ. For an AR-10 I've never needed a cantilever mount, the large frame upper has always been able to allow a regular mount at the end of the picatinny section without going into the handguard.


 
Your mount looks very stout. However, the Warne mount I linked here is rock solid and under $100 for the 0-MOA version. And more importantly, nothing squirts into your eyes when you use it.
Leupold Dovetail rings and a base are $70. They are pretty similar to the original equipment on the Vietnam era M40. Its all relative. A customer in todays market can spend that $70, or your $100, or our $210, or Spuhrs $410. Or they could buy a Leupold MK5 bundle from us and get our mount for free with a $1799 MAP priced Leupold MK5. You can't beat that with Warn, or even with the Leupold Dovetail rings and base.

Even if you can't budget any money on the mount, we have a package that gets you a mount for free, assuming you aren't also buying low end glass.
 
For an AR-10 I've never needed a cantilever mount, the large frame upper has always been able to allow a regular mount at the end of the picatinny section without going into the handguard.

Conversely on the AR15, I'm nearly always screwed into a cantilever mount.

I've done the same (rings or conventional mounts on AR10s), and modern optics are coming with greater eye relief so sometimes I'm just barely hanging a ring over the end of the receiver in front and its interacting with the rail if the rail isn't coincidentally in the exact same plane and that bothers the shit out of me. It's really close on the AR10 with a lot of optics, tight enough that I'm working for the compatibility. Some of these scopes now have 4" eye relief somewhere in the power range and that pushes the optics forward.

I don't run Vortex optics, but their razor HD 1-6 seems to have greater than 4" of eye relief. It seems even Leupold is pushing 3.5" or greater at times. These are the types of developments that are pushing people into cantilever mounts.