Rifle Scopes Scope to rifle bore alignment

[stxhunter2013]

Is there a good "poor boy" method to get a scope aligned close with the rifle bore? Is it really necessary shooting under 400 yards? Probably a thread on this subject but I can't find one. Thanks

 

[longrangefool]

What kind of rail (if any) is on your rifle? What kind of rings?

 

[stxhunter2013]

I have a 16" 700 Remington with a Picatinney base. I was planning on using Burris Z rings with a NF NXS 2.5x10x32 scope. Just wanting to start things off right with the install.

 

[Deadshot2]

Is there a good "poor boy" method to get a scope aligned close with the rifle bore? Is it really necessary shooting under 400 yards? Probably a thread on this subject but I can't find one. Thanks

This has always been a sore point with me, the guy with all the fancy machinery (the manufacturer) who can't seem to drill the scope mount holes in line with the rifle action and barrel's axis.

I don;t know how "poor boy" my method is but it works for me. I first put the rifle in a vise that's clamped to the bench. I bore sight by removing the bolt and using the old school "look down the barrel method" to line up on a "target" about 50 yards away (It's my neighbor's back porch light). With the scope "spin centered" I lay it on the lower rings and look through it to see how far the cross-hairs are off, side to side. If not too far off, I'll grab the dremel, remove the scope and base, then elongate three of he four scope base mount holes on the side opposite the direction I want the vertical reticle to move. Reinstall the base and screws, snug the base against the screws who's holes I elongated (pivoting on the rear screw that didn't have the hole elongated. I only tighten the screws enough to hold the base in place lightly. Set scope in place again and check for horizontal alignment.

When i get the mount adjusted to the point where the vertical line is aligned with the bore as "bore sighted old school style", I then mix up some Devcon and bed the mount (for me that will always be a picatinney rail). Goop up the bottom of the rail, wax the action and screws then reinstall. Again using the scope in the lower rings, make sure the vertical line is on your target, tap the rail that is secured with only finger tight screws until it does, then go do something else for 24 hours.

Thankfully, not many of my rifles need this treatment. Once I have a rail that's centerline is in common with the barrel centerline I don't need to bother with any special rings or plastic inserts. I just decide first what amount of "wedge" I want (0 MOA, 20 MOA, etc) before I start the alignment process.

This takes a little longer than using "Zee Rings" or whatever but for me it's a "one and done" setup.

On bedding rails, I prefer to bed all my scope rails. Just like we all seek a "stress free bedding" of the action for accuracy, ditto for he scope rails. Doesn't help to buy a nice expensive, super straight rail, then warp it over the top of an imperfect action surface. Bedding allows one to move a scope forward or aft, usually without having to change "zero". Likewise in cases where you transport your rifle with the scope removed or are "sharing" your high-end scope among several rifles. (that is unless your're the Geico Man who's made of money and have a $2k-$3k scope for all 12 of your rifles )

 

[jakelly]

Holland makes a three part base that is designed to allow you to perfectly align the rings with the bore. The base is designed to be drilled and tapped in one place when set. I have one of these and it has worked fine using only three screws and not tapping the final hole. I still didn't like the extra moveable parts, and just had the holes trued and opened up to 8-40.

 

[stxhunter2013]

Very interesting method Deadshot. I have never heard of that mount jakelly but will look into it.

 

[Deadshot2]

Very interesting method Deadshot. I have never heard of that mount jakelly but will look into it.

I even take this to another level if I know I'm never going to want to remove the rail unless re-barreling. I de-grease the action and rail then apply the Devcon with NO parting agent. I do wax the screws, threads and heads, so they are easily removed at a later date but to remove the rail I'll have to heat it and give it a whack from a cowhide mallet. The rail adds stiffness to the action and by "bonding" it all the benefit possible is being achieved.

 

[stxhunter2013]

Good info Deadshot. This is a new type of rig for me so I plan on trying a few things then I can decide how permanent I need items to be. After I get some time behind it I'll have a better idea what I may need to do. Thanks for the input!