I am not saying the barrel is shot out. My buddy and his smith are saying that. And no, those are 100 yard groups.
Scratched chamber
- Thread starter Max_The_Phoenix
- Start date
Well, I guess we see why he’s the number two then.
After you get done talking shit over the internet, you are most welcome to post your spot in the rankings.
I believe it was hate towards Proof, as if somehow they would have something to do with a chamber scratching brass on a barrel they didn’t chamber?
If it was a prefit by Proof this might make sense but it sounds like it was a blank so the entire post about the problem being a Proof makes zero sense.
If it was a prefit by Proof this might make sense but it sounds like it was a blank so the entire post about the problem being a Proof makes zero sense.
I had a factory rifle that scratched the cases so bad that they stuck in the chamber and was hard to extract, about 10 minutes to set up a wooden dowel with 4 or 600 grit (can’t remember) Emory cloth and 2 minutes with it chucked in my drill and the problem was gone.
Calm down? I’m extremely calm, but I do appreciate the concern. Anyhow, I had asked the OP originally if his barrel had come from Proof. The reason I asked is due to a couple of friends, who know what they are doing in terms of precision rifle shooting, who have had issues with their Proof barrels very recently.
The photo was posted to corroborate the statement I made about one of those shooters’ barrels, chambered in .308, going TU in just under 2500 rounds.
When you called into question that individual’s abilities, I determined a bit of edification was in order with regards to said shooter’s pedigree. Coming back at me with “we see why he was number two then” also required addressing. At least from my perspective.
I don’t have some crusade against Proof. Personally, I could give two fucks. I have never used their hardware, and I never will. I do believe it to be prudent to inform our community of issues when they come to fruition. I believe this community has a tendency to not criticize (read: “protect”) some manufacturers for whatever the reason, but I don’t do that shit.
I merely call them how I see them.
You don’t protect a manufacturer, but you are willing to stand up and throw shade on a manufacturer you’ve never used based on some unnamed guy, or perhaps it’s a couple of friends, who was (were?) at some point “Ranked” number 2 (just the one or was it the couple) in a sub class of the PRS….and your “evidence“ is a target with no information on it or presented with it to make us think you didn’t just make it in you garage with a pencil.
Well that’s just fucking brilliant. I feel edified.
Hello everyone.
I appreciate and respect your opinions about Proof barrels. I have my own opinion, not to be aired here, on their quality and business model regarding prefit barrels......nuff said.
Back to the OP's concerns. I have the barrel back at my shop. I have cleaned the barrel thoroughly and re-polished the chamber back to like new condition. There are no marks or imperfections in the chamber and we will be accuracy testing it at the OP's request before sending it back. I am confident it will shoot very well with good ammo......may or may not be factory ammo. I have burned through most of my variety of 6.5creed and only have one popular brand/weight that has fallen from grace (in my opinion) as it has not shot to the same outstanding accuracy as pre-covid lots.
A couple things I want to point out, as a knowledge transfer to others following this thread (no insult intended to OP).
1. The gouges/pits in the pics were simply carbon flakes that came out with cleaning.
2. The lengthwise case scratch (body to shoulder) is a common drag mark from Defiance actions, from the ejector forcing the fired brass into the sharp corner of the lug seat after the brass clears the chamber. This problem typically shows up more with shorter cartridges but can happen with longer cartridges if the bolt is worked slowly. The fix is simply dulling that sharp corner so the brass slides over it instead of trying to plow into it.
3. After re-polishing I scoped the chamber body to get pics (I use a Teslong borescope) for the customer's file. After cruising around the chamber and barrel in general, I started noticing very light marks that looked like scratches in the chamber. Dumbfounded, I finally figured out it was the metal tip of the borescope. These "marks" were superficial at best and will be removed during final cleaning just before shipping back to the OP.
Final thoughts. I am a firm believer in borescopes as they can be a valuable tool for catching errant chambers. However, they are a lot like Xrays......you gotta know what you are looking at.
Ern
I appreciate and respect your opinions about Proof barrels. I have my own opinion, not to be aired here, on their quality and business model regarding prefit barrels......nuff said.
Back to the OP's concerns. I have the barrel back at my shop. I have cleaned the barrel thoroughly and re-polished the chamber back to like new condition. There are no marks or imperfections in the chamber and we will be accuracy testing it at the OP's request before sending it back. I am confident it will shoot very well with good ammo......may or may not be factory ammo. I have burned through most of my variety of 6.5creed and only have one popular brand/weight that has fallen from grace (in my opinion) as it has not shot to the same outstanding accuracy as pre-covid lots.
A couple things I want to point out, as a knowledge transfer to others following this thread (no insult intended to OP).
1. The gouges/pits in the pics were simply carbon flakes that came out with cleaning.
2. The lengthwise case scratch (body to shoulder) is a common drag mark from Defiance actions, from the ejector forcing the fired brass into the sharp corner of the lug seat after the brass clears the chamber. This problem typically shows up more with shorter cartridges but can happen with longer cartridges if the bolt is worked slowly. The fix is simply dulling that sharp corner so the brass slides over it instead of trying to plow into it.
3. After re-polishing I scoped the chamber body to get pics (I use a Teslong borescope) for the customer's file. After cruising around the chamber and barrel in general, I started noticing very light marks that looked like scratches in the chamber. Dumbfounded, I finally figured out it was the metal tip of the borescope. These "marks" were superficial at best and will be removed during final cleaning just before shipping back to the OP.
Final thoughts. I am a firm believer in borescopes as they can be a valuable tool for catching errant chambers. However, they are a lot like Xrays......you gotta know what you are looking at.
Ern
Yeah. That’s what I did. Made the whole story up, poked holes in a paper and decided to jump into the discussion.
Here’s your sign.
To the OP, I have a Savage 112 Target 338 Lapua Mag. The buddy I got it from said do NOT look down the barrel or chamber with a bore scope. The gun has very few rounds shot out of it but it's crazy accurate. The brass has slight ring marks pretty much full length which would drive most people crazy and go screaming to the manufacture for a replacement.
Oh yeah, almost forgot to mention, my shooting buddy looked at the bore and chamber with his scope and nearly didn't shoot it at a big match but it shot so well in testing he went for it. Can't argue with results, sometimes knowing less is better. If it shoots, it don't matter what it looks like. He said without a doubt it's the worst looking chamber/bore he's ever seen, so what does make a barrel shoot, not shoot or quit shooting? Seen a lot of guns that owners say won't shoot then get someone like Randy or a known great shooter and put amazing groups out there. Easy to blame equipment but a look in the mirror might reveal some of the problem.
Topstrap
Oh yeah, almost forgot to mention, my shooting buddy looked at the bore and chamber with his scope and nearly didn't shoot it at a big match but it shot so well in testing he went for it. Can't argue with results, sometimes knowing less is better. If it shoots, it don't matter what it looks like. He said without a doubt it's the worst looking chamber/bore he's ever seen, so what does make a barrel shoot, not shoot or quit shooting? Seen a lot of guns that owners say won't shoot then get someone like Randy or a known great shooter and put amazing groups out there. Easy to blame equipment but a look in the mirror might reveal some of the problem.
Topstrap
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I quit reading after this. Competence is clearly very low throughout this thread and you guys are just taking shots in the dark (without a sandbag apparently) as to the issues (of which there may be absolutely zero)
I just want to take the time and appreciate all the effort from Altus team, thanks to the Gunsmith for doing the great job and Many thanks to Joshua for good follow up, I will definitely give them my business for the next projects, I have another 300 PRC project that I am going to send them the parts soon.
Altus is the real Deal.
Altus is the real Deal.
I thought a follow up message was in order, for those following this thread.
I appreciate Max-The-Phoenix's patience during this process, and I look forward to building him another rifle.
Upon receiving the rifle, I broke it down completely and checked/cleaned everything. I repolished the barrel then re-assembled and shot the rifle. I also polished the sharp point on the Defiance action that leaves the typical body/shoulder scratch during slow ejection. Other than these mods, everything else checked out perfectly.
The rifle shot great with 130 Berger AR Hybrids. As some of you know, these ultralight rifles can be very finicky with shooter influence. If your cheekpiece is not adjusted properly for repeatability and your parallax in your scope is not adjusted properly.......you are asking for trouble. I mention these, not as an insult to the specific shooter here, but as a reminder to other shooters that may be having trouble driving an ultralight rifle. Over the years I know I have become accustomed to plopping down a 20lb soft recoiling rifle that pretty much drives itself with easily achieved 1/2moa (or less) accuracy.
Thanks again to everyone who posted suggestions above during this thread, it is much appreciated.
Ern
I appreciate Max-The-Phoenix's patience during this process, and I look forward to building him another rifle.
Upon receiving the rifle, I broke it down completely and checked/cleaned everything. I repolished the barrel then re-assembled and shot the rifle. I also polished the sharp point on the Defiance action that leaves the typical body/shoulder scratch during slow ejection. Other than these mods, everything else checked out perfectly.
The rifle shot great with 130 Berger AR Hybrids. As some of you know, these ultralight rifles can be very finicky with shooter influence. If your cheekpiece is not adjusted properly for repeatability and your parallax in your scope is not adjusted properly.......you are asking for trouble. I mention these, not as an insult to the specific shooter here, but as a reminder to other shooters that may be having trouble driving an ultralight rifle. Over the years I know I have become accustomed to plopping down a 20lb soft recoiling rifle that pretty much drives itself with easily achieved 1/2moa (or less) accuracy.
Thanks again to everyone who posted suggestions above during this thread, it is much appreciated.
Ern
Curious, have you ever considered counseling? I do not believe it is normal to be fixated on a naked family of homeless (or homed) people waving at you. That is a pretty weird fetish.
Counseling? Definitely. I Stay booked up months out though, and I'm really not looking to take on any new clients. I guess I could make an exception for an SH member. PM me and I'll have my assistant write you in my next available.
Now, I'll tell you just like I tell the rest of the hide members who reach out for help: I can't make it any bigger, no matter what I say to you, so you will just need to work on being happy with who you are. There are no magic pills or creams, and there's never been a miracle dispenser installed in those gas station bathroom vending machines, so drink water and drive on..
I fugured I would tag into this thread vs starting a new one.
1. Rifle shoots lights out.
2. I screwed up and scratched the chamber during cleaning.
3. Brass comes out after firing with a gouge (see picture)
4. Gouge is not there after extraction if round is not fired.
5. I have identified the spot in the chamber that is gouging the cases
6. I have a flex-hone and hone fluid
A. - should I flex hone the entire chamber?
B. - should I just target the troublesome spot with dowel and sandpaper?
C. - should I re-load this brass?
Thank you
1. Rifle shoots lights out.
2. I screwed up and scratched the chamber during cleaning.
3. Brass comes out after firing with a gouge (see picture)
4. Gouge is not there after extraction if round is not fired.
5. I have identified the spot in the chamber that is gouging the cases
6. I have a flex-hone and hone fluid
A. - should I flex hone the entire chamber?
B. - should I just target the troublesome spot with dowel and sandpaper?
C. - should I re-load this brass?
Thank you
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Never shot a field match..so I don't really know the answer..BUT guess I would answer...yes I would if the brass looked ok?
So i guess the answer would be to
1. Send to gunsmith for chamber work?
or
2. Buy a new barrel
Not super interested in shooting the brass 1 time then throwing away due to the gouge problem.
Any additional comments appreciated (except the one making fun of this new reloader) ha ha
You don't have a problem with that brass.
I have about 80 pieces of .300 prc brass with a way deeper cam over pattern that i have loaded twice already with a serious load of 4831sc and 208 hybrids. No issue.
Go to post #48 and see it for yourself.
What does the chamber look like? It appears to be raised material in the chamber.
Just hit the chamber with 2500 grit and a dowel for about 15 seconds. I’ve done this with two chambers with no issues. Fixed the sticky brass problem both times.
I agree with you about that. I think what is happening is upon firing the case wall is expanding into the raised material. I believe the raised material is from the cleaning rod scratch which pushed material into a "pile" like a snow plow pushed flat snow from the street into a pile...
Here are two picture from the chamber..the odd thing is the streak picture doesn't line up with the case scratch. The second picture does like up with the scratch BUT that one seems indented, not raised?
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Hit that with a brush and a copper remover first.
No. Brass brush. But I think the culprit was a brass jag and patch which was way to tight and got stuck in the chamber which I had to REALLY push/pull to get out. I think that is what did it.
I am an idiot
I think what you did was deposited a glob of brass in the chamber which is now scratching your cases. Go to town on it with a bronze brush and sweets 762 solvent. It should take it out. I don’t think it’s a scratch. You can’t scratch a chamber with a bronze jag.
Ok...i went to town with some copper remover and brass brush. I used an oversized bore mop and brush and worked the chamber..the copper/brass is no longer obscuring the photos...tell me...do these look like raised deposits? I think so. The only thing I can think of is the end of the cleaning rod which has the rubber coating wear off and exposed the metal scratching the chamber....but these DON'T look like scratches. So I will head to the range and shoot some round and see if the brass comes out scratched again...if it does I might go with the the special rifle honing brush I have..
Thoughts again would be appreciated
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Put a bronze brush on a short cleaning rod and soak it in some real good copper solvent. Spin it using a power drill at low rpm. I dunno what solvent you used but it’s gotta be the strength of sweets or Barnes cr
I thought I would update this post. I ended up using the flex-hone brush on my chamber. 15 or 20 seconds with a cordless battery powered drill at between 20-30% of max RPM.
Cleaned up the oil/fluid/chamber (which was rather dirty after the honing process)
Patched out the barrel and went to the range. And lo-and-behold....problem solved.
No more scratches on spent brass!!
Cleaned up the oil/fluid/chamber (which was rather dirty after the honing process)
Patched out the barrel and went to the range. And lo-and-behold....problem solved.
No more scratches on spent brass!!
