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Seating depth?

stonefly53

Private
Minuteman
Apr 23, 2010
41
0
49
East Idaho
Hey guys,
I was wondering about shooting different weight bullets from the same gun. The manuals list different C.O.L.'s for the different bullets. I have a custom douglas barrel and usually shoot 168 gr bergers. I seat them right on the rifling as berger recomended and I get excellent groups. If I load some 120 gr Hornady V-Max for rock chucks, should I keep the same C.O.L. or shorten them like most manuals say? Any input is appreciated.
 
Re: Seating depth?

The o-give width of the bullet should contact the grooves at the same point, in most cases. It shouldn't matter what the weight of the bullet is.

You can check them with a guage, but it doesnt matter if more or less of the nose goes into the barrel as long as the width contacts the same location.

test fire 5 and then go from there!

Good Luck.
 
Re: Seating depth?

Lots of people have been competitive at Camp Perry, but what makes Bart Bobbitt special is how well he writes about it:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Bart Bobbitt 2003:
The most accurate centerfire rifles typically do best with bullets
seated out a bit so they contact the lands and push back a few
thousandths into the case. This makes the starting resistance more
uniform from shot to shot as well as centering the bullet in the bore
before its fired. However, if ease of removing a loaded round from
the chamber, I'd seat bullets out to within only a couple thousandths
from land contact which centers the bullet pretty good. The more a
bullet is seated off the lands, the less it will be centered in the
bore before firing.

To set up for a bullet's contact seat, the case neck has to be sized
such that there's not much tension on the bullet. One problem that
sometimes happens is that the neck grips the bullet tight enough to
jam it into the lands fairly tight and if the round has to be removed,
the bullet stays in the barrel and powder infiltrates your action.
The solution is to find out what neck tension is right for your
rifle's chambering, then use it.

Using a slightly larger expander ball or lapping out the die's neck so
you don't need an expander ball is a good way. But it takes measuring
and metal working skills to do it; a decent 'smith should be able to
do this for you if you can't.</div></div>
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.guns/...71ca836132b1245