Seekins HAVAK Precision Rifle

For those having accuracy problems with the 6.5 prc, I’ve found a load that is preforming pretty well.
- shoulders bumped .001” with Redding s full length die .290 bushing
- fed 210 m primers
- 60.9 gn of IMR-8133
- Berger 140 vlds seated to coal of 2.955
- average vel. 2897 on 3 round group
This was done during ladder testing so more testing needed. Will follow up with es and sd soon.
 

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For those having accuracy problems with the 6.5 prc, I’ve found a load that is preforming pretty well.
- shoulders bumped .001” with Redding s full length die .290 bushing
- fed 210 m primers
- 60.9 gn of IMR-8133
- Berger 140 vlds seated to coal of 2.955
- average vel. 2897 on 3 round group
This was done during ladder testing so more testing needed. Will follow up with es and sd soon.

Hopefully it repeats. On my 300WM I finally found a load that shot .36 moa on a ladder test. Loaded up 20 and it would consistently have a flier(s) 1”-1.25” up and left. It may be about to go back to Seekins for the 2nd time.

Swapped scopes and bought some FGMM to test a final time before going back again.
 

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Looks like my PH1 is going back for the second time.

Results with 190g FGMM:
 

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Looks like my PH1 is going back for the second time.

Results with 190g FGMM:

I still haven't devoted a ton of time to my replacement 300wm Havak (first one was a lemon as documented on this thread). I couldn't get it to shoot berger 215s worth a crap but it is showing promise with 200.20x bullets which still offer pretty good performance.

That said, it has still shown an occasional flyer after stacking 2 or 3 on top of each other.. Maybe i'll drive it to ground this winter. If it doesn't prove reliable I won't waste my time with sending it back, it'll get rebarreled with an aftermarket barrel.
 
I still haven't devoted a ton of time to my replacement 300wm Havak (first one was a lemon as documented on this thread). I couldn't get it to shoot berger 215s worth a crap but it is showing promise with 200.20x bullets which still offer pretty good performance.

That said, it has still shown an occasional flyer after stacking 2 or 3 on top of each other.. Maybe i'll drive it to ground this winter. If it doesn't prove reliable I won't waste my time with sending it back, it'll get rebarreled with an aftermarket barrel.
If mine could put 3 under moa at 100yd and keep poa/poi every time I’d be happy. You can see on that last target where poi shifted right even though nothing changed. I was using the Caldwell tack driver bag and rear sandbags. The rifle was rock steady and I have the trigger at 1.9lb so yanking it would be hard to do.
 
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Thats what i ended up doing. Only bad thing is if i decide to hunt with it its one long sum bitch. O well i guess
Built one of these for a friend the other night for a friends seekins havak and was thinking of making a run of them and selling them wondering if you guys would be interested in them. Haven’t come up with a good price I’m making them on manual lathe not Cnc. Bolt knob conversion for havak. Length of center would be determined by customer.
you still making the extensions?
 
I have had a 6.5CM Havak for a little now and I originally was pretty frustrated with it. Couldn't seem to shoot anything under 1.75-1.5 MOA. Until I tried to factory Hornady 140gr ELD's. I have shot a lot of other factory ammo with pretty poor results, but for some reason it loves the 140's.

This is my typical five round group at 100 yards. Sometimes they will damn near all go through the same hole. Im getting a SD of around 13-15 with this ammo, so it should be OK at distance. A little tighter SD wouldn't hurt though. Just don't have the time to reload right now.
 

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Anyone who owns one of the carbon composite stocks in the PH1 care to take a few pictures of the stock with the action removed? I'm curious about the construction of these stocks, and there is almost nothing available for them elsewhere online.
 
Good day all,
After 2 years since rifle release and yours personal experience. Is it worth it to own a Havak? I’m looking to get one but not sure. 10% off Black Friday deal pushing me to the edge. I was considering Mesa or Ridgeline but now I’m not sure.
 
I sent mine back for extremely poor accuracy(1.5MOA). They said there was an issue with the barrel so they re-barreled it. They sent a sample of the groups it shot. It was sub-moa but not what I would call impressive. When I inquired about how they test rifles they did say that it's just outside, on bags, fired by a human. So the group really didn't mean anything.
I took it out with Hornady 143ELDx match ammo and was still not shooting much better than MOA, if better at all.
Then I took it out again with 147ELDm match ammo and got better results. three 3-round groups all under MOA, one close to half. And this was done on a sunny afternoon with the sun in my face, wind, and a big mexican lunch and a few beers in me. I'm going to try to get out again in better conditions, but I am satisfied with the results.
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Anyone re-barreled their 6.5 PRC yet. Curious if you went with the .130 freebore over the .188 and what were the results. I’m thinking about contacting Alamo about spinning me up a new barrel specifically for the Hornady 153 A-Tip with a faster twist.
 
I sent mine back for extremely poor accuracy(1.5MOA). They said there was an issue with the barrel so they re-barreled it. They sent a sample of the groups it shot. It was sub-moa but not what I would call impressive. When I inquired about how they test rifles they did say that it's just outside, on bags, fired by a human. So the group really didn't mean anything.
I took it out with Hornady 143ELDx match ammo and was still not shooting much better than MOA, if better at all.
Then I took it out again with 147ELDm match ammo and got better results. three 3-round groups all under MOA, one close to half. And this was done on a sunny afternoon with the sun in my face, wind, and a big mexican lunch and a few beers in me. I'm going to try to get out again in better conditions, but I am satisfied with the results.
View attachment 7190681View attachment 7190682View attachment 7190683View attachment 7190684
How many firings before you sent it in? i only shot about 60 rounds using eld x 143 and groups are like yours not very impressive. will try shoot it more. Thinking of switching to 147.
 
I sent mine back for extremely poor accuracy(1.5MOA). They said there was an issue with the barrel so they re-barreled it. They sent a sample of the groups it shot. It was sub-moa but not what I would call impressive. When I inquired about how they test rifles they did say that it's just outside, on bags, fired by a human. So the group really didn't mean anything.
I took it out with Hornady 143ELDx match ammo and was still not shooting much better than MOA, if better at all.
Then I took it out again with 147ELDm match ammo and got better results. three 3-round groups all under MOA, one close to half. And this was done on a sunny afternoon with the sun in my face, wind, and a big mexican lunch and a few beers in me. I'm going to try to get out again in better conditions, but I am satisfied with the results.
View attachment 7190681View attachment 7190682View attachment 7190683View attachment 7190684
They sent that back as the test target calling it good? I have a 300WM back with them for the 2nd time for accuracy issues. Initially it was the worst copper fouling barrel I’ve personally seen. You could fire around 20 rounds and it would look like a copper crayon was pushed through the barrel starting about 10” after throat. It did settle down after 100 or so rounds. However in over 200 rounds fired nothing would shoot consistently. This is the Last ditch effort before asking them to buy it back or do God knows what with it. Makes you wonder what Rock Creek is sending them barrel wise.
 
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They sent that back as the test target calling it good? I have a 300WM back with them for the 2nd time for accuracy issues. Initially it was the worst copper fouling barrel I’ve personally seen. You could fire around 20 rounds and it would look like a copper crayon was pushed through the barrel starting about 10” after throat. It did settle down after 100 or so rounds. However in over 200 rounds fired nothing would shoot consistently. This is the Last ditch effort before asking them to buy it back or do God knows what with it. Makes you wonder what Rock Creek is sending them barrel wise.
Not good at all. I just obtained cert to get one. But it really doesn’t sounds as a good idea. Look like CA ridgeline might be an option
 
The overwhelming majority seem to be ok and Glen is dedicated to making it right. I wouldn’t deal with CA based on feedback I’ve heard. Mine was also an early PH1.

Seems like the early 300wm had some issues. I can say my PH1 in 6 creedmoor shoots the 108 Hornady Match ammo sub .5 moa at 200yds. You get a lot for the price, hell the action alone you can build off of and I personally like the stocks and 20moa. Plus they’re small enough to actually still care about CS and are really easy to get a hold of. Use that cert man!
 
Element really worth the price?
After some members backed up Seekings. Now I’m thinking should I upgrade. That’s my first expensive/quality rifle hunting rifle.
 
How many firings before you sent it in? i only shot about 60 rounds using eld x 143 and groups are like yours not very impressive. will try shoot it more. Thinking of switching to 147.
around 60 rounds also, but with a mix of 143 and 147 and nothing would shoot. New barrel appears to prefer the 147s. Hoping to get out tomorrow or sunday in better personal and environmental conditions to see if I can tighten the groups up further.
 
They sent that back as the test target calling it good? I have a 300WM back with them for the 2nd time for accuracy issues. Initially it was the worst copper fouling barrel I’ve personally seen. You could fire around 20 rounds and it would look like a copper crayon was pushed through the barrel starting about 10” after throat. It did settle down after 100 or so rounds. However in over 200 rounds fired nothing would shoot consistently. This is the Last ditch effort before asking them to buy it back or do God knows what with it. Makes you wonder what Rock Creek is sending them barrel wise.
You must have missed the part where I said they used a human to test the RIFLE's accuracy. They call it 'Real World Testing'. I call it a waste of a staple and paper. IMO, if a customer claims that a RIFLE is having accuracy issues, tests should be in a controlled environment with machines to eliminate the human factor.
Pretty much all three of my groups were better than the one they sent with the rifle, in less than optimal conditions, which kinda proves that they wasted their time bothering to even send me that test group.
 
I've got a Havak Bravo 6.5CM and it shoot well. The 143's and 147's consistently print .75" groups. The 130 Berger's are sub 1/2" at 100 yards routinely. It's got a considerably heavier barrel than the PH, but its the same twist and action. I've read a lot more good than bad on the Seekins rifles, and I'm thoroughly impressed with mine. I was planning on hand loading for it, but with the way it groups those Bergers I'm not sure that I'd see much of a difference with handloads. Bottom line is that I'm very happy with the rifle, and would buy from them again. Truth be told I was looking for one of their rifles in 300PRC, but couldn't find one so I bought a Bergara Premier Ridgeline in 300PRC. We'll see how it does.
 
You must have missed the part where I said they used a human to test the RIFLE's accuracy. They call it 'Real World Testing'. I call it a waste of a staple and paper. IMO, if a customer claims that a RIFLE is having accuracy issues, tests should be in a controlled environment with machines to eliminate the human factor.
Pretty much all three of my groups were better than the one they sent with the rifle, in less than optimal conditions, which kinda proves that they wasted their time bothering to even send me that test group.

I agree 100%.
Was surprised they’d actually put a test target that bad on the return invoice and call it good. Even I tested mine with a machine rest before calling it bad. Seems like they need to invest in one.
 
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I'm still waiting for a free afternoon to finally get some rounds downrange with my Havak 6 Creed. Hoping results will be favorable with the Hornady 108s or Berger 105s.

I can tell you with full confidence the factory 108’s will print bugholes. At least mine did and from others I’ve heard. I can reload and shoot faster but not more accurate. Factory 108’s shoot around 3020 and my reload Berger 105’s 3175. All consistent 1/2 MOA
 
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Tried out some different loads but there's really no point in testing anything further with the results I'm getting with Hornady 140gr ELDM's in my 6.5 Bravo.

I posted a pic about a week ago of what my typical 5 shot groups look like with the 140 ELDM's. Well here are what my groups look like with ammo it doesn't like. I was looking for some cheaper options like American Gunner and S&B for practice. Groups are about 1.5"+ (outside groups) where the 140's ELDM's almost go through the same hole (center group). The Hornady AG didn't do too bad to be honest (right group) The one pic I was shooting at the hanger hole of the target and was almost able to get all five through the hole without touching. Not a typical group, but holy smokes!

I do wish the gun wasn't so ammo picky, but that's mostly because I don't have the time to reload right now and have to buy factory. I wouldn't be worried about accuracy with these guns but I think you might have to hunt for a round it likes.... Going to shoot a match on Saturday with factory ammo in the production class. Looking forward to it and seeing how I do as an inexperienced shooter in these types of things.
 

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Thats odd. My 6.5 Havak Bravo shoots everything well. It really likes the 130 Bergers and 129 Interlocks, but it'll keep any of the factory round I've tried at MOA or considerably better. I've got the same Sako green stock on mine as well. I love the looks of it. Reminds me of the TRG's that I've always wanted but couldnt' afford.
 
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I got to shoot a PH2 in 300PRC today, my buddy picked one up a while ago. It shot the Hornady Precision Hunter 212ELDX ammo at an average of 2880fps, groups at 100 were 1/2 to 3/4". Once we figured out the dope he was on steel out to 640 yards. I would be curious to see how it handles the 225gr match ammo.
 
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Got to shoot my Bravo 6.5CM in a club match today and couldn't be happier it. No feeding issues, held zero perfectly and was just an absolute hammer with the factory Hornady 140 ELDM's. I made some pretty embarrassing rookie mistakes, but was still able to squeeze out a win in the production class. Super confident in the platform at this point and am looking forward to trying to attend a bunch more events where I can shoot in the production class with it.
 
Got to shoot my Bravo 6.5CM in a club match today and couldn't be happier it. No feeding issues, held zero perfectly and was just an absolute hammer with the factory Hornady 140 ELDM's. I made some pretty embarrassing rookie mistakes, but was still able to squeeze out a win in the production class. Super confident in the platform at this point and am looking forward to trying to attend a bunch more events where I can shoot in the production class with it.

Im looking into picking one of those up in either 6 or 6.5. I have the PH1, how was the cock on close bolt for staying on target? Was it an issue? Mines still al little stiff when closing the bolt and feel like that might be an issue for staying on target in some of the shooting positions.

Also what muzzle device are you running on it?
Sounds like an awesome match! Congrats
 
Im looking into picking one of those up in either 6 or 6.5. I have the PH1, how was the cock on close bolt for staying on target? Was it an issue? Mines still al little stiff when closing the bolt and feel like that might be an issue for staying on target in some of the shooting positions.

Also what muzzle device are you running on it?
Sounds like an awesome match! Congrats

The cock on close isn't an issue for me. I will admit, the the bolt in my Bravo was anything but buttery smooth when I first got it though. It took quite a bit of dry firing and range time to get it where it is now. I also put a light coat of gear oil on the bolt which really helps the bolt run smooth and easy. Ill attach a pic of my bolt. Almost all the black has been rubbed off of it on the high spots at this point.

Right now I'm running the Silencerco ASR muzzle break for a hybrid 46 I will run on it now and then. I personally think the gun gets too long with the suppressor on it for matches. Too hard to move it around, but great for bench shooting. There is probably a break that would work better out there, but I'm not too worried about it.

Coming from shooting 22's a lot, my biggest issue is recoil management. I'm used to being able to watch the bullet under the scope after the shot and barely having any pressure on the gun. Figured out that backing the scope off of some magnification helped with spotting my impacts and being able to re-aquire targets after the shot.
 

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I received my bolt extension from @Mississippi327. Took a little bit of heat and a pliers to get the old one off. Cleaned up the red loctite and then secured the new extension and knob. It’s perfect. The added length really gives it a better feel cycling and the two tone look rocks.

Thanks again! View attachment 7019518
How hard and how much heat did you have to use to remove the bolt Handle? Did you end up damaging the orginal bolt with pliers to get off.
 
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Ok shoot it today, rainy range day but I manage to Zero the scope. Those are my last 3 shots on the target, rain was coming down pretty hard.

What you guys think.

No break in just took out of the box and went to shoot. I ruin my chronograph it got soak. Lol I'm probably get a lab radar.

100 yard zero
Hornady 143 eldx hunter
Bypod shoot and monopod.
Sig sauer 6.5X20x52mm BDX System
Bypod is Accutec-tac
 
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How hard and how much heat did you have to use to remove the bolt Handle? Did you end up damaging the orginal bolt with pliers to get off.
Not very much torque really but having the bolt held secure is the key. I used a v block and a leather liner to hold the bolt. Then heat with torch until hot, around 500 degrees or so to break down threadlocker. As it gets hot then start slowly apply torque. Again not much torque really just waiting for the bond to release. Once it does you’ll feel it and it will start to loosen. Wasn’t too bad again just make sure you’re holding the bolt securing it so it won’t spin.
 
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Not very much torque really but having the bolt held secure is the key. I used a v block and a leather liner to hold the bolt. Then heat with torch until hot, around 500 degrees or so to break down threadlocker. As it gets hot then start slowly apply torque. Again not much torque really just waiting for the bond to release. Once it does you’ll feel it and it will start to loosen. Wasn’t too bad again just make sure you’re holding the bolt securing it so it won’t spin.
Thanks I did pretty much the same stayed under 400 degrees so not to alter the finish on the bolt. I held the bolt with thick rubber from my dive belt in a vise and used leather on the knob with a plier. once the loctite broke down the knob was easy to come off. I replaced the shank part with one from area 419 and their bolt too. gave the prefect amount of extension about .25" longer than the seeking on.
 
Thanks I did pretty much the same stayed under 400 degrees so not to alter the finish on the bolt. I held the bolt with thick rubber from my dive belt in a vise and used leather on the knob with a plier. once the loctite broke down the knob was easy to come off. I replaced the shank part with one from area 419 and their bolt too. gave the prefect amount of extension about .25" longer than the seeking on.

@scale which adapter did you order from Area 419? The only ones I see are for either a Bighorn or Defiance.