I picked up a 7 PRC for an upcoming hunt this fall for Elk shooting off tripod . I am a bit concerned about adding the rail to this. could put it into the mill slot the inside add threaded steel inserts and reinforce the area is " sea cast" or maybe about filler . Or do I just use a saddle and not worry about it . Open to suggestions options etc
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Seekins PH2 + Arca rail questions
- Thread starter HDWRENCH
- Start date
As long as you only kill out the rib area just large enough to fit the insert and bed it in with marine tex or devcon it will be fine. I would only place them in the areas with the thin rib though. You don’t want to get rid of any of the X crosses as that’s what keeps it from twisting. Putting them on those thin areas won’t present an issue.
On another note, you know you’re a snap on whore when you purchase their pocket screwdriver when the tool guys hand out free pocket screwdrivers. I bought it too and nobody could understand why I paid money for it when they give the others away for free. 15+ years later I still haven’t broken the thing, I went through one of those free ones a week.
On another note, you know you’re a snap on whore when you purchase their pocket screwdriver when the tool guys hand out free pocket screwdrivers. I bought it too and nobody could understand why I paid money for it when they give the others away for free. 15+ years later I still haven’t broken the thing, I went through one of those free ones a week.
HA HA well That one has a better grip and I use it for ONE job only . It is for removing cir clips from pistons . Day job is building HD engines and tuning . In fact my Snap on dealer is a total ass hat and has not come into my shop for at least 10 years . Mac is the only dealer now HA HA
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Let me recommend the Salmon River Solutions ARCA/Pic rail. I bought a PH2 in 6.5 PRC this fall and wanted a Pic rail for my good bipods but also the ability to use an ARCA clamp on my tripod. The front mounting screw replaces the sling swivel stud. Just in front of the QD socket for sling mounting is a round casting void. Put the second mount screw and T-nut there and it is quick, easy, and elegant but preserves the QD socket. This also adds little weight to the rifle. The ARCA mount is a little forward of the center of gravity of the rifle, but not badly and on a light rifle like this it doesn't seem to stress the tripod. https://www.salmonriversolutions.com/product/srs-arca-pic/
I just went through this with salmon River solutions hunter rail. Knocked out most of the centerline rib closest to the recoil lug, threaded in the screw/insert, and the. Buried the hardware inside the stock with JB weld (pretty much just filled in the first bottoms triangle under the first intersection of all the ribs). Everything seems pretty solid - I wiped the screw and tint threads with shoe polish, so getting things off should be much of an issue if the need ever arises.
If you don’t need or care about the full length, the rib in the post above would be ahold option as seekins leaves a nice little hole molded in to the forend at the front of the stock - just drill that out and you would be good to go.
If you don’t need or care about the full length, the rib in the post above would be ahold option as seekins leaves a nice little hole molded in to the forend at the front of the stock - just drill that out and you would be good to go.
Thank you! This is exactly what I’m trying to do with hunter rail. Do you have any pictures?
I don’t have any handy - I don’t think they would be too much help as I buried my hardware in JB - all you would see is a solid triangle of JB.
I drilled a small hole through the bottom of the stock into the middle of the pocket just above where the action is bedded in your first picture - this was for the screw to pass through.
The center rib is much too tall for the hardware that I had to reach a t-nut, I had to grind cut away the centerline rib in that first pocket down to a height the hardware could accommodate. Make sure you test fit everything before you get any epoxy involved - I was an idiot and did not, found out that I hadn’t removed enough material all around where the t-nut had to go - it made my install way more messy than it should have been, it really should be pretty simple.
If you have a hole through the stock and the centerline rib cut down in height to where your hardware will be able to thread on to attach the arca rail, you can just fill in an epoxy of your choice with the hardware in place. I coated threads inside the t-nut and on the screw with shoe polish to prevent it from becoming locked in the epoxy, just like you would if bedding a stock.
If you have access to a mill for reducing the height on the center rib, you’ll probably do a prettier job of it. I imagine you could grind it out with a dremel.
One other thing to be aware of - on my havak, the flush cup protrudes a fraction of a millimeter. With the 3 screws on the hunter rail, it is held on solidly and it doesn’t bother me, but if you are really OCD it might bother you as there will be a smidge of flex in the rail. It still goes into an arca clamp with no perceivable issue and I didn’t really want to file it down as for me it makes no functional difference. Just something to be aware of in case you care.
I drilled a small hole through the bottom of the stock into the middle of the pocket just above where the action is bedded in your first picture - this was for the screw to pass through.
The center rib is much too tall for the hardware that I had to reach a t-nut, I had to grind cut away the centerline rib in that first pocket down to a height the hardware could accommodate. Make sure you test fit everything before you get any epoxy involved - I was an idiot and did not, found out that I hadn’t removed enough material all around where the t-nut had to go - it made my install way more messy than it should have been, it really should be pretty simple.
If you have a hole through the stock and the centerline rib cut down in height to where your hardware will be able to thread on to attach the arca rail, you can just fill in an epoxy of your choice with the hardware in place. I coated threads inside the t-nut and on the screw with shoe polish to prevent it from becoming locked in the epoxy, just like you would if bedding a stock.
If you have access to a mill for reducing the height on the center rib, you’ll probably do a prettier job of it. I imagine you could grind it out with a dremel.
One other thing to be aware of - on my havak, the flush cup protrudes a fraction of a millimeter. With the 3 screws on the hunter rail, it is held on solidly and it doesn’t bother me, but if you are really OCD it might bother you as there will be a smidge of flex in the rail. It still goes into an arca clamp with no perceivable issue and I didn’t really want to file it down as for me it makes no functional difference. Just something to be aware of in case you care.
Thank you for all the help. This is great information. Always a little nervous when drilling, cutting and using epoxy on stocks.
