Selecting .300 WM Brass for Reloading? Brand etc?

[mildot326]

So I've been looking online at various brass for sale, having no experience yet reloading for 300 WM , I'm looking to get to off on the right foot. Reading lots of "negative" reviews on Hornady, Winchester etc. Nosler seems to have some good reviews, any "end users' or "been there done that" like to comment or give some advice. Thanks

 

[918v]

Nothing wrong with Hornady. I got 15 reloads out of mine using 77.4grs of H1000 under a 208.

 

[mojavejim]

Norma or RWS if you can find it ( it's like brass art for WM) & H1000

 

[Horns8491]

Hornady is ok but if you want to start out right go with Norma. Drilled flash holes, consistent neck thickness and overall consistency. You can get the Hornady brass there, but it takes work and tools you may not have. I ran Hornady brass for my 300 wm for years but finally said F it and switched to Norma, and never looked back.

 

[mildot326]

Thanks, lots of good advice and experience, right now Brownells seems to be the best price? & they have it in stock. Any other "leads" I should be checking? Thanks troops!
What about starting with 100pcs? sound good?

 

[Horns8491]

I would be cautious about shooting a zillion rounds with a 300 wm, even with a brake. I shoot mine suppressed which helps a lot with felt recoil and concussive blast. But still I wanna make sure I don't get roughed up while training and develop a flinch. So basically what I'm saying is personally I have 100 match grade cases for my 300 wm and that is more than enough for me, but I shoot it WAY less than 260, 6.5x47 or even 308.

 

[Hawk in WY]

Early days but I having good results using Peterson brass. Europtics has it at a very good price.

Not so good results with Winchester, Federal, Hornady and Nosler. Winchester and Federal have been inconsistent and I have had case head separations with Hornady after four firings. Hot loads but annealed every firing and set back only .02.

No complaints so far with Norma. Norma may have made some Nosler brass from time to time.

I haven't tried the Sig brass but am hearing good reports.

I'm now stocking Peterson only if that tells you anything.

Good luck.

 

[Supersubes]

Ya this is easy, Peterson all the way.

 

[Hawk in WY]

Remember to reduce your load by two plus grains with Peterson brass.

 

[308pirate]

Hot loads but annealed every firing and set back only .02.

Setting the shoulder back .02" is a shitload, and if that's what you did I'm not surprised you had case head separations. I'm sure you meant .002", right?

 

[Strykervet]

I'm learning that Lapua makes the best brass. It's costly, but it's goddamn spot on, a work of art almost. Consistency is key, and I can tell you for a fact this brass is very consistent.

In my Grendel, I get 1MOA with Hornady brass and several bullets... With Lapua brass and 120gr. Nosler BT's, it's .33MOA all day long.

So when I couldn't find any match LC brass, I said fuck it and ordered 1k pieces of Lapua .308. Not looking back. Everyone says you get lots of use of out of Lapua brass too, I've never loaded any more than 5 times but that brass looks as new. It's thicker than most too.

Norma brass is known to be soft, so keep that in mind.

 

[.30kal]

I'm learning that Lapua makes the best brass. It's costly, but it's goddamn spot on, a work of art almost. Consistency is key, and I can tell you for a fact this brass is very consistent.

Except Lapua doesn't make .300 WM brass.

 

[NukeMMC]

Except Lapua doesn't make .300 WM brass.

Anymore ... dammit. Actually a little research since I wrote this shows that apparently Lapua had someone else (Norma) make the brass for them.

I have Norma brass and Hornady. Once I get it all once-fired, I'll tell you which works better, but so far, the primer pockets and flash holes on the Norma are MUCH more consistent.

 

[NukeMMC]

midsouth has Norma brass
https://www.midsouthshooterssupply....winchester-mag-unprimed-rifle-brass-100-count

 

[Hawk in WY]

Setting the shoulder back .02" is a shitload, and if that's what you did I'm not surprised you had case head separations. I'm sure you meant .002", right?

Yup.

My bad.

I believe I may not have adjusted my sizing die after annealing also. Less spring back leading to excess head space.