I'll Never forget you calling out that man-bun at Mifflin a couple years back! :-]]And you are a millennial with a man bun, its ok![]()
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I'll Never forget you calling out that man-bun at Mifflin a couple years back! :-]]And you are a millennial with a man bun, its ok![]()
Me? Oh, couldn’t be me! David and I are friends and I’d never do that! lolI'll Never forget you calling out that man-bun at Mifflin a couple years back! :-]]
Am I reading this correctly, the first shot after the "drop" is low but the second is POA? and this without adjusting the scope?Seems I have a scope issue times seven scopes. It also seems like this is a legit issue. So, with that said I have a question for you dudes. Has anyone else seen an impact shift when dropping the rifle on a bag and taking a shot?
What started all this was trying to get my build and break times down. I’d shoot five shots from five different positions for time trying to keep them all in the #1 diamond on the Kraft Target. When I went from high kneeling to standing I dropped the rifle on the bag from about 12” in a hatchet type movement pushing to make up time. Hand on grip, forearm approximately 12” above the bag and let the rifle drop angling down to the bag. I noticed the shot went low when I called it center diamond. I shot again to confirm and it was center. I thought that was weird so I repeated the process and first shot was low, second shot was center. My mind went into overtime knowing there was an issue, but what was causing it? My first thought was chassis. Swapped around with three chassis to no resolve. Ok, it’s a barrel issue, again three barrels with no resolve. So I texted a dude that likes to test stuff. He said nope never tested that or heard of it but I’ll look into it. Only one thing left to do swap scopes and see what’s up. The results are below and they speak for themselves. What say you?
Here is the process I used to confirm the results checking different scopes.
- All shots were from standing position.
- Held grip, the rifle is 12” above bag, release forearm and rifle falls onto bag.
- Fire first shot.
- Pan over to next target and fire second shot.
- Pick up rifle and repeat for a total of 5 shots per target/10 rounds total.
Here is the list of scopes tested:
- Gen 2 Razor 4.5-27
- Zero Compromise 4-20
- Nightforce NXS 5.5-22
- Gen 3 Razor 6-36
- Leupold MK4 Fixed 16x
- Gen 2 Razor 3-18
- Viper PST 5-25
Chassis that were tried early on to eliminate that thought:
- AIATX
- XLR Envy Pro
- Early XLR Envy
Barrels Tested to remove that thought:
- 26” Proof 6mm
- 26” Bartlien
- 26” Proof 6.5mm
The last thing I tried was dropping the rifle onto the bag dialing the scope up and down to remove any lash then return to zero and fire. It fixed nothing.
Will work for ammo….
@Lowlight feel free to move if this needs to be elsewhere.
For nothing but zero retention, what's your scope rings or mount of choice? I don't think I need many features, I just want something that my scope will never shift in. Is there a top dog on just sheer clamping force or friction on the scope/rail?On mounts: I have seen cooky thing with mounts that could potentially explain this. It comes down to the clamp design and how much friction is built into it. Generally, in a well designed mount, zero retention should not be related to friction between the pieces, but I have seen this be all over the place.
Since the zero moves and then comes back to original, it would seem that the most likely source would be the scope adjustment mechanism. Most modern scopes use very similar designs as far a s internal adjustments. Col. Cooper may have been correct that a fixed scope and an adjustable mount could be more robust if only because there is more room outside the scope tube than inside even with 34mm and 35mm tubes. I cannot see how the chassis or mounts could move and then return to the former position.That’s it
Since the zero moves and then comes back to original, it would seem that the most likely source would be the scope adjustment mechanism. Most modern scopes use very similar designs as far a s internal adjustments. Col. Cooper may have been correct that a fixed scope and an adjustable mount could be more robust if only because there is more room outside the scope tube than inside even with 34mm and 35mm tubes. I cannot see how the chassis or mounts could move and then return to the former position.
That's a pretty easy one to check. Just mount a visible laser on your scope. Look at the dot through your scope and see if it moves.
If it's not the scope, then mount it on your barrel, chassis or whatever and use the process of elimination.
P.S. Use a quality laser so you don't add another variable.
So at least seven different sets of rings were used and 3 or 4 different rifles. Some of them being Bighorn which utilize dowel pins in the rail.spooledup,
How much bias to you have in your scope base and your mount? Could you tell me what each has individually?
Putting bias in the base and mount pulls the erector tube away from the erector spring when zeroing the scope. These are important details.So at least seven different sets of rings were used and 3 or 4 different rifles. Some of them being Bighorn which utilize dowel pins in the rail.
I don’t feel as if the issue is within the rail or rings.
Why doesn't that effect show up in a bedded chassis like @morganlamprecht tested? Why did it only happen in non-bedded chassis for him?If you slap the barrel hard enough all that shit goes to one side of the bore, same thing happens when you drop the rifle.
It has an effect, whether you choose to acknowledge it or not, denial doesn't make it go away.
If I’m following you correctly…what you mention is why I always fully seat all mating surfaces of rings caps and clamps before torquing screws to make sure they don’t tighten “artificially” from small misalignments, friction, etc before fully seating…and are only held by the respective clamping forces best I can manage
Having an uneven clamp/cap/mount just takes the right impact to shift it/settle it
I always thought of it like when unbolting 2 pieces that slightly misalign making the bolt feel tight…give one of the pieces a whack or relieve the pressure/misalignment and the bolt can spin freely with your fingers
I’ve also used a small amount of grease in the past on rails/clamp mating surfaces to make sure they’re able to slide together and fully seat before torquing, but I didn’t find issues leaving the grease out and just aligning by hand so I can’t say it helped, but it didn’t seem to hurt either
For nothing but zero retention, what's your scope rings or mount of choice? I don't think I need many features, I just want something that my scope will never shift in. Is there a top dog on just sheer clamping force or friction on the scope/rail?
Hawkins Precision is all I use for the most part nowadays.For nothing but zero retention, what's your scope rings or mount of choice? I don't think I need many features, I just want something that my scope will never shift in. Is there a top dog on just sheer clamping force or friction on the scope/rail?
This has been an very interesting read and got me to thinking.
Awhile back I was in the garage and had one of my rifles in a tripod, I am 6'2" and to be at shoulder height the rifle is pretty high off of the floor.
My wife let my dogs out in the garage because they were annoying her whining at the door to get to me.
They started showing off trying to get my attention wrestling around with each other and knocked the tripod and rifle over.
Rifle bounced from the barrel tip first and then full weight down on the scope, it hit hard enough to to dent the scope shade and bent the elevation turret.
I figured for sure it was totally fucked but what the hell took it to the range to shoot it.
It was a little low and to the right but still grouped just fine so I was impressed but with the bent elevation turret I couldn't dial it back to were it was.
I thought to myself damn scopes have come a long ways durability wise and then I started reading this thread and have second guessed that.
The scope I mentioned is back in the factory box, I just need to send it back for repair.i had a rifle take a similar fall
said scope on that rifle came with the bungee style scope caps/covers...
pre fall, the scope covers fit between the objective and rail...post fall, it wouldnt fit
everything still felt tight, so i shot it anyways...zero had shifted like .5mil elevation and 1.5mil windage or something similar
the scope cover not fitting tipped me off something moved so i loosened the ring clamps to the rail and took the scope off, then reinstalled...the scope cap fit between the rail and objective again, and my zero moved back onto a 3/4" dot
at the time i didnt take it back apart to look for damage to the rail/ring clamps, but it held zero fine for the rest of the time i owned that rifle and it didnt take any other hard falls
Then why isn’t this a problem for everyone who drives or flys with a gun? Bumps and flights knocking around the unburnt debris to one side.Before I posted what I did earlier in the thread I knew w/o a doubt no one would believe me.
It's par for the course on this site.
One of the first thing I said was to "think".
I guess that must be old fashioned these days huh ?
Once you've fired 15-20 rounds look thru the bore, you'll see small bits of unburnt powder and random debris.....you all should know this w/o my having had to type it out.
If you slap the barrel hard enough all that shit goes to one side of the bore, same thing happens when you drop the rifle.
It has an effect, whether you choose to acknowledge it or not, denial doesn't make it go away.
We have a guy that has swapped barrels, swapped scopes and mounts, swapped chassis or stocks, yet the same problem is repeatable.
Huh, isn't that strange ?
He said the problem is slightly less with the old Loopy Mk4 fixed power......strangely enough I'll wager it's the lightest scope of them all by quite a bit.
Less inertia in the drop.....or is my mathing all fuxored ?
I'll wait for someone to get frustrated enough to actually chrono the shot after the drop.....and laugh my ass off.
Ah...so, did you have dog stew for dinner that night? lolMy wife let my dogs out in the garage because they were annoying her whining at the door to get to me.
They started showing off trying to get my attention wrestling around with each other and knocked the tripod and rifle over.
Rifle bounced from the barrel tip first and then full weight down on the scope, it hit hard enough to to dent the scope shade and bent the elevation turret.
Nah they are part of the family, ask me how I can tell ?Ah...so, did you have dog stew for dinner that night? lol
Before I posted what I did earlier in the thread I knew w/o a doubt no one would believe me.
It's par for the course on this site.
One of the first thing I said was to "think".
I guess that must be old fashioned these days huh ?
Once you've fired 15-20 rounds look thru the bore, you'll see small bits of unburnt powder and random debris.....you all should know this w/o my having had to type it out.
If you slap the barrel hard enough all that shit goes to one side of the bore, same thing happens when you drop the rifle.
It has an effect, whether you choose to acknowledge it or not, denial doesn't make it go away.
We have a guy that has swapped barrels, swapped scopes and mounts, swapped chassis or stocks, yet the same problem is repeatable.
Huh, isn't that strange ?
He said the problem is slightly less with the old Loopy Mk4 fixed power......strangely enough I'll wager it's the lightest scope of them all by quite a bit.
Less inertia in the drop.....or is my mathing all fuxored ?
I'll wait for someone to get frustrated enough to actually chrono the shot after the drop.....and laugh my ass off.
I can only speak from my sample size of one that I actually seen a small shift in zero that I know was from scope damage.SnipersHide 2023: Rokslide drop tests are arbitrary, uncontrolled, not repeatable, and focused on a single personality. Let’s separate from personalities, refine the process, & standardize to isolate the variables & find the issue.
SnipersHide 2024 (this thread): it’s probably chassis/stock movement. Let’s move towards isolating the variables to find the issue.
I don’t think anyone is arguing that scopes can’t or don’t lose zero.I can only speak from my sample size of one that I actually seen a small shift in zero that I know was from scope damage.
The action in the chassis slipping I feel very confident was not the issue.
Chassis is a XLR Carbon with action screws torqued to 65 in lbs, scope after impact had the elevation adjustment stem bent enough that the turret was visibly tilting to one side.
The zero shift was minimal and if I had no other choice could have finished a hunt with it, attempted to adjust the shift back to zero but the stem was bent enough to prevent that due to binding.
Agreed was mainly commenting on the trend of comments regarding the action shifting in bedding or the chassis.I don’t think anyone is arguing that scopes can’t or don’t lose zero.
I didn't even consider unbedded chassis might shift but another thread got me interested and I think it's a lot more common than people believe. Phil Cashin has said a few times that unbedded chassis are way more susceptible to POI shift from impacts and having wandering zeros. I don't see why a chassis manufacturer would be incentivized to say that if it weren't true.Agreed was mainly commenting on the trend of comments regarding the action shifting in bedding or the chassis.
Properly bedded and torqued action screws or a good chassis inlet design negates that concern, that was my point.
Sorry could have been more clear on that one.
That was why I said a "Good" chassis inlet design.I didn't even consider unbedded chassis might shift but another thread got me interested and I think it's a lot more common than people believe. Phil Cashin has said a few times that unbedded chassis are way more susceptible to POI shift from impacts and having wandering zeros. I don't see why a chassis manufacturer would be incentivized to say that if it weren't true.
Do you wear glasses and/or have an Astigmatism with your dominant eye?Seems I have a scope issue times seven scopes. It also seems like this is a legit issue. So, with that said I have a question for you dudes. Has anyone else seen an impact shift when dropping the rifle on a bag and taking a shot?
No to both questions. Vision is good to go.Do you wear glasses and/or have an Astigmatism with your dominant eye?
An impact/jostle puts a slight bind/tweak on multiple parts with space to shift that is resettled after the firing explosion/recoil
When testing chassis bedding/POI shifts pre-bedding, I could move my POI around in various directions depending on which way i struck the barrels
Some directions would shift and tend to stay until I hit them back the opposite direction, some would shift and walk back to center over a few shots
I was impacting way harder than a small drop from 12” onto a bag so I could see how a consistent/lesser impact could move things just enough for recoil to reseat it each time
After bedding all the shifts went away…same scopes were used before and after
Specifically how are you bedding? What areas etc? Pics?
I have been struggling with my zero a little this year. Show up at the range, check zero and it is off. Adjust it and it stays. I used to use a soft case locally and pelican traveling to matches. I have started using the pelican for all travel hoping that might help.
The other thing I am thinking is that when I remove my muzzle brake for cleaning and re-install it with some torque, the way I am doing that may be causing some action movement and/or screw/lug binding or contact in the chassis (I hold the chassis between my legs/feet and torque the muzzle brake).
I am planning on bedding a chassis and seeing the effect. What you are saying makes total sense to me.
I have the MPA with the barrel wedge thing on the recoil lug. I like that, so have to figure out how to bed the lug side to side and keep that...![]()
Foundation Stocks - people are bedding?
I've seen a few guys saying they fully bedded their Foundation Stock. Anyone care to explain their decision to do this? Peace of mind? Poor mating/accuracy without? I just placed an order for an exodus. I've only shot chassis's and Foundation states their stocks don't require bedding/pillars...www.snipershide.com
i basically just fill the recoil lug area and skim bed the rest...on a chassis with little support area for bedding material down the sides of the action, i just bed the front and rear pads and recoil lug area