Looking to put together a sheep rifle. This rifle will serve as a multi use gun ultimately. Currently I have a manners eh1a and a fluted light Palma barrel. I am concerned it may be on the heavy side, but I’m not an experienced sheep hunter.
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Sheep gun weight/build
- Thread starter NorthWesterner
- Start date
On a backpack sheep hunt(I have done 2) weight is important. Anything more than 8 or 9 pounds is getting out of hand. How far do you plan on shooting?
Actual practice with the same gun is critical.
I found a pack that could carry my gun either between my shoulder blades or strapped to the side made carrying the gun much easier and helped with weight. My four sheep were shot at 220, 280, 300 and 620.
Actual practice with the same gun is critical.
I found a pack that could carry my gun either between my shoulder blades or strapped to the side made carrying the gun much easier and helped with weight. My four sheep were shot at 220, 280, 300 and 620.
I suspect making shots between 200-1200 yds. I’m comfortable with those ranges. The rifle will be chambered in 28 nosler. Chances are I will have to pack this rifle 10-15 miles a day. Just never have had to pack a rifle and gear this far before.
I have considered it. I have a couple TBAC cans I could use. But they do add weight and length.
If it were me and I was looking for a super lightweight I would just go with a Barrett Fieldcraft. I’ve handled over 6 different Fieldcrafts and every one has been 1/2 MOA shooter. Bare rifle weighs 5.2lbs SA and around 5.5 for LA. Running some numbers in the ballistic calculator in sheep country altitude the 178 eldx out of the 30-06 at 2700fps gives you 1300lbs and 1800fps out to 800 yards.... you can definitely build a rifle just as light and shoot 1/2 moa but it’s going to cost you 3-4x the price of a fieldcraft ($1500-1700).
I haven't hunted sheep, but do backpack after other species every year.
Rifle weight is a personal preference. You should go as light as you can shoot
Easily and Accurate. That number is different for everyone. For me around 7lbs bare is about right for a hunting rifle. I can shoot lighter rifles, but you have to focus so much more on fundamentals.
If you plan on hunting with a supressor then the muzzle diameter also come into play. The easy solution is a proof barrel to gain enough diameter without gaining a lot of weight.
Rifle weight is a personal preference. You should go as light as you can shoot
Easily and Accurate. That number is different for everyone. For me around 7lbs bare is about right for a hunting rifle. I can shoot lighter rifles, but you have to focus so much more on fundamentals.
If you plan on hunting with a supressor then the muzzle diameter also come into play. The easy solution is a proof barrel to gain enough diameter without gaining a lot of weight.
Light palma is on the heavy side. Go Proof to save weight or a 3b. I prefer proof for lighter builds.
Ditch the adjustable stock. The hardware/pillars add weight. Eh1 is a great stock. Get the carbon version without the mini chassis to cut weight.
Outside of going with a ti action, you should be able to build a heck of a shooter in the 7-7.5lb range. You can shed more weight with a ti action or defiance anTi action and a few other things ( hinged floor plate, which I prefer for a hunting rifle, etc.).
Have fun.
Ditch the adjustable stock. The hardware/pillars add weight. Eh1 is a great stock. Get the carbon version without the mini chassis to cut weight.
Outside of going with a ti action, you should be able to build a heck of a shooter in the 7-7.5lb range. You can shed more weight with a ti action or defiance anTi action and a few other things ( hinged floor plate, which I prefer for a hunting rifle, etc.).
Have fun.
I will save about 10 oz by going proof. That’s a lot of money for 10 oz. the stock I already own, I don’t intend on changing that. $800 is a lot to pay for 10 oz. that’s almost $100/oz.
True. Look at the 3b contour...cheaper and light. Can’t handle strings of firing, buy great for a hunting rifle. I had a krieger light palma (22”) on my 6.5cm. Shot lights out, but it was too heavy for my liking.
As someone else suggested, may be easier and cheaper just to buy a lightweight rifle (ie fieldcraft) then have your gunsmith modify it as needed. But, that’s not as fun as building a rifle.
As someone else suggested, may be easier and cheaper just to buy a lightweight rifle (ie fieldcraft) then have your gunsmith modify it as needed. But, that’s not as fun as building a rifle.
What does it weigh now? I have an EH1A with medium Palma unfluted that weighs over 13#. The horses carry it most of the way. I like a heavier rifle. I’d just train with a weighted backpack leading up to your hunt. The proof didn’t save me enough weight to justify the cost of the blank. I should have gotten an EH1 with the light weight riser they do. That’s the bees knees I think.
Rifle isn’t built, and the fluited blank have is just that. But by my calcs it will be 12.5 lbs.
If you didn't already have the barrel a proof isn't a whole lot more then a premium fluted cut rifled barrel. I think the last bartlein i bought was around $500 for a fluted barrel and the last proof research was around $700.
Is that 12lbs ready to hunt? Or a bare rifle?
Is that 12lbs ready to hunt? Or a bare rifle?
My opinion may not be what you want, but unless you are a superbly fit, young guy a 12lb sheep rifle is almost 2x too heavy. If you are back packing you are going to have a 50-60lb pack +/- who packs the tent, water availability. I have sheep hunted horseback and backpack. My rifle a 15 year old Remington Alaskan Wilderness custom shop 300 WinMag with a Swarovski 3-12 scope, 8.5lbs.Sheep are small animals and 1,000 yd shots are risky and usually not needed. Where I have hunted (British Columbia, Yukon) you need to get pretty close to judge the age of the sheep for legality of harvesting.The rams hang out in groups frequently and do tend to shuffle around from time to time. also making really long shots iffy. My longest shot was 520yds, bedded ram, away from his buds by 20-30yds and they were bedded too.Closest was 40yds (bighorn in my area hang out in the trees and it's more like hunting deer.
Another factor is how are you accessing sheep country, entirely by foot, small plane, horseback,boat, helicopter. Some of those have weight restrictions, more food /water more important on day 10 than the value of a super, high magnification scope.
Another factor is how are you accessing sheep country, entirely by foot, small plane, horseback,boat, helicopter. Some of those have weight restrictions, more food /water more important on day 10 than the value of a super, high magnification scope.
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Makes sense. I will be using this scope regardless. I can’t justify buying another optic just for this hunt. I guess I could build a completely different rifle, but I was hoping to make this one work. I suppose I should reconsider.My opinion may not be what you want, but unless you are a superbly fit, young guy a 12lb sheep rifle is almost 2x too heavy. If you are back packing you are going to have a 50-60lb pack +/- who packs the tent, water availability. I have sheep hunted horseback and backpack. My rifle a 15 year old Remington Alaskan Wilderness custom shop 300 WinMag with a Swarovski 3-12 scope, 8.5lbs.Sheep are small animals and 1,000 yd shots are risky and usually not needed. Where I have hunted (British Columbia, Yukon) you need to get pretty close to judge the age of the sheep for legality of harvesting.The rams hang out in groups frequently and do tend to shuffle around from time to time. also making really long shots iffy. My longest shot was 520yds, bedded ram, away from his buds by 20-30yds and they were bedded too.Closest was 40yds (bighorn in my area hang out in the trees and it's more like hunting deer.
Another factor is how are you accessing sheep country, entirely by foot, small plane, horseback,boat, helicopter. Some of those have weight restrictions, more food /water more important on day 10 than the value of a super, high magnification scope.
12lb sheep rifle is crazy heavy. As others have said sheep arent very big or tough and go down easy.... if you are dead set on building a rifle it’d go lone peak ti, 20-22in 2b or proof carbon. Mesa altitude stock. Chamber 6.5 PRC and go kill sheep at as far as you want, but from my experience most sheep are killed under 400yards so pretty much any modern cartridge will do.
Also, no need to spend another $2k-3k optics Just for this hunt. Shots should be 500yd and under. Get a decent 3-9, 3-12, 3-15, 4-16 for under $1000k and you are good. Pick one up used here and then sell after the hunt. Budget swfa makes a decent ffp in the lower power range (3-9) for about $600 and it weighs around 19-20 oz. You can shed almost a lb. by changing the optics; another few ounces with ultra light rings, and over 1/2 lb. with a different barrel.
I don't know beans about sheep hunting, but I can tell you that if you're gonna hump it all day, every day, for even moderate distance over difficult terrain, lighter is better. I've seen a 9-10lb rifle and a 45 lb ruck (dry) steal the soul out of many a young man - folks getting paid to wander about with a rifle. Hard to make a case for going heavier unless the weight is contributing significantly to your ability to employ the rifle in some fashion.
Is this for our Olympic peninsula billy goat culling?
If so our mountains are not as bad as some. A little extra weight won't be as bad as going to harder territory.
If so our mountains are not as bad as some. A little extra weight won't be as bad as going to harder territory.
Yes I hope to make the cut. At this point in obviously not counting my eggs before they hatch. But I think we have a good shot at making the cut. So you don’t think a 12-13 lb gun would be terrible for this terrain?
Northwesterner, see you aint too far from me. When this pandemic scare is over, take yourself up to Benchmark barrels in Arlington or give Travis Redell of Rbros rifles a call and tell him what you want to do. 12.5lbs is heavy, just dropped my Tikka off at Benchmark, got a cf stock from them, its currently a 270wsm, good to 500 with handloads, with the cf stock, metal dbm, sling is 6 12. Had a hankering for a 6.5prc or 6.5ss had a fluted 6.5 rem varmint contour barrel, so projected weight is just a tad under 8. But it will pull a little double duty for elr as well in a chassis. Tbh, should have probably left it 270wsm, with a Leica is would be under 8. Heavy rifles have their place, have a 21lb dasher for matches if they ever start up. But sheep hunting, lighter is better and saving ounces costs.
If that's the case I think you would be fine. I would think most hunts are day hunts or overnight at most.
Benchmark makes damn fine barrels. They are all I run. I have had about 10 at this point at least. I build pretty much all my rifles from the ground up. I Have Buffalo Creek Precision do all my smith work (Bellingham based smith). He builds complete lasers! If you shoot competition, I’m sure we have met!
I don’t know your mountains, here in Alaska I hunt the Wrangle mountains for Dall. And 10-15 a day every day is not even a option at elevation. I camp at 7,000 and there is no way I want a heavy rifle. Lighter the better as long as you can accurately shoot it.
As mentioned above mountain hunting is a game of ounces and you pay for weight on way or the other. If your not hunting the mountains every year you have to decide if having heavier equipment is worth the labor to carry it. When hunting in the mountains we pay ridiculous prices for light weight gear.
Good luck on your hunt.
As mentioned above mountain hunting is a game of ounces and you pay for weight on way or the other. If your not hunting the mountains every year you have to decide if having heavier equipment is worth the labor to carry it. When hunting in the mountains we pay ridiculous prices for light weight gear.
Good luck on your hunt.
Kinda seems like you just really want to build on what you have vs doing it right.
What most call a “sheep rifle”, I just call a proper hunting rifle. I wouldnt tote a 12-13 lb gun on the plains chasing antelope personally.
Just do it right, you’ll be happier in the long run.
It’s not really a matter of not wanting to “do it right” it’s just want equipment I have on hand ca spending thousands on different equipment. I would like to use what I have if possible. Saving money is always a good thing.
The only item I could really sell is the barrel. The stock is pretty unique, and I could prefer to use it anyhow. I guess that would still buy me -12 oz. as far as a light weight scope, I don’t intend on selling my high end tactical scopes. But your point stands, I could try and move some funds around.
I know I mentioned it earlier but I would strongly suggest on selling the stock and barrel and buying a Barrett fieldcraft. They start out at 5.2lbs and are 1/2 moa for street price of 1400-1600. AG composite stock, Timney trigger at 1.5lbs. Then put a 300-500 lightweight scope. All in would be less than building..... I know it takes away from the fun of building but it’s the best way if your looking to save money but have a great mountain rifle at or below 7lbs all up.
I hear what you are saying. Two things, I’m left handed so limited options there. Two, I ca damn bear build a custom gun for 1600. I don’t intend on buying another scope regardless. I don’t have much trust in a $600 optic from any manufacturer.
I have done just under 20 backpack sheep hunts. Also over 40 backpack hunts for other game.
Long range shooting is not needed. Heavy rifles are not needed. I see the reasons listed above. Get a rifle that weighs 7-8# for a 6mm-7mm cal and get good data to 500 yards. You won’t likely need to shoot beyond 350 but should have 400 yard equipment and skill set.
Below is a photo of my current sheep rifle. A few ounces under 8#.
It puts 5 shots inside 1” at 100 yards. Not super accurate but good enough for 4-500 yard shooting on rams.
Now just wait for the “selected group” folks to show up. I have rebarreled far too many hunting rifles on short notice to sit at a bench and shoot twenty 5 shot groups out of light sporters.
Oddly, in mountain hunting other factors come into play more than absolute accuracy.
Good handling, ability to shoot from odd or uncomfortable positions, ability to quickly get a shot off on a running wolf etc. Spare me a pig of a mountain rifle.
Long range shooting is not needed. Heavy rifles are not needed. I see the reasons listed above. Get a rifle that weighs 7-8# for a 6mm-7mm cal and get good data to 500 yards. You won’t likely need to shoot beyond 350 but should have 400 yard equipment and skill set.
Below is a photo of my current sheep rifle. A few ounces under 8#.
It puts 5 shots inside 1” at 100 yards. Not super accurate but good enough for 4-500 yard shooting on rams.
Now just wait for the “selected group” folks to show up. I have rebarreled far too many hunting rifles on short notice to sit at a bench and shoot twenty 5 shot groups out of light sporters.
Oddly, in mountain hunting other factors come into play more than absolute accuracy.
Good handling, ability to shoot from odd or uncomfortable positions, ability to quickly get a shot off on a running wolf etc. Spare me a pig of a mountain rifle.
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Never been on a sheep hunt, but hopefully draw a tag someday and until then make my NR donations to many of states. Looking at a manners eh1a and Kahles 624 looks like you are sitting a touch over 5# without well everything else. If you think you can make it work then go for it. Saving a few dollars by purchasing a Barrett is a potential and sitting your scope on it. If you decide to build, I would view it as a lightweight hunting rifle. As others have said, it’s expensive to cut weight on equipment. If money isn’t a factor then I would build a 6.5 or 7mm bore, manners eh1, proof CF or 3b or smaller contour, and LPA or Impact Ti action. I would go over your clothing, pack, food, etc. and see what weight you are sitting at without your rifle to give yourself another input to help guide the decision. Plenty of good recommendations already offered. Good luck on your hunt!
Listen to the guys that have done sheep. Keep your rifle as basic as possible, and practice. Dont look for a half moa load. Just practice. I would run with all my gear on on the road at my range until my heart rate was up. Practice the first shot. Lean against the building and stand on one leg etc etc.... odds are heavy that when you take that one shot of a lifetime you gonna be tired, out of breath and in a bad shooting position. Practice.
Good luck and be safe.
Good luck and be safe.
Appreciate all the insight. My shooting ability is not what I’m most concerned with. I shoot a lot and am confident in my skill set as a rifleman. The big thing in question is how much rifle can I carry. It seems like most thing 8-9 lb rifle is ideal. It makes sense.
6.5-8 is really top. Scopes are a common weight issue.
Folks get addicted to power and features.
A simple 3x Leupold will do all you need and weighs 8 oz.
a NF 2.5-10x24 weighs 16 oz iirc. Don’t go over that.
Blind magazines save a lot of useless weight.
Folks get addicted to power and features.
A simple 3x Leupold will do all you need and weighs 8 oz.
a NF 2.5-10x24 weighs 16 oz iirc. Don’t go over that.
Blind magazines save a lot of useless weight.
