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Shooting some M40a1ish

pmclaine

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Nov 6, 2011
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    MA
    Before sighting in. Wind was kind of tame today. Note to self, you cant change orientation in film mode.....

    https://youtu.be/-ZKPzFVXfyM

    Rifle

    PB057650.JPG

    PB057653.JPG

    Check zero. Cold bore, cold shooter low left. The others 3 where they needed to be.....

    PB057654.JPG

    After shooting film.....

    https://youtu.be/5U2Hm4tA6n0

    15 for 16. I missed my first shot at tag one. 4 for 4 on the other three.

    PB057657.JPG

    On the fourth shot tag 1 the wind caught the tag and started to turn it just as I was squeezing the trigger. The round left a neat skid mark.
     
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    How much windage did you have told??:rolleyes::rolleyes:


    No windage held.

    You just have to maintain the patience to let them settle and hope that by the time you squeeze your shot the wind hasn't picked up.

    There are moments of being about 50% squeeze and having to back off because they started dancing again.

    Ive found that if the tag is at anything less than full on when the brain engages the finger you will likely miss.

    Trying to time a bladed tag it will likely be edge on or out of your aiming point before you break the shot.

    Its fun and actually pretty easy once you do it two or three times.

    The instructor at Sig academy had us do this for a drill on a class I took.
     
    You know I'm razzing you for the camera filming this 90 deg. off, right?:cool::cool:

    Yep I get it...holding the camera portrait caused the tags to be looking 90 degrees left wind.

    My point was that even if there was a wind condition I guess you could input it for the little effect it would have over the 99.9999999 yards but hitting these is more ambush than leading or timing.
     
    This is the recipe. I only picked the parts. Mark Williams at Raven Rifles put them together and made it magical.

    M40/A1/A3/A5ish Rifle Build

    1. McMillan HTG stock. Pillars to be installed by builder. Action to be bedded using USMC PWS spec bedding compound to M40A1 spec build.

    2. Bottom metal is DD Ross A3 guard/floorplate. McMillan has cut stock to accept this metal.

    3. Magazine box welded to receiver per A1 spec. **** if you think this is a liability toward accuracy I agree to modify this requirement. Remington mag box, spring and milled follower supplied by me.

    4. Barrel Kreiger 5R stainless. I want gun to be 4 inches shorter than A1 spec. I think 20 inch from lug or plus/minus 21 inch from bolt face is a good compromise on overall rifle length and still not cutting into velocity. Aesthetically the rifle will look balanced rather than barrel short. I went with an 11.25 twist and will likely shoot more 168s out of it than any other bullet. Willing to discuss if you see problems with my barrel choice or length. I defer to your builders knowledge. Chamber for FedGMM 168s or USMC M118LR spec. I would take suggestion on best chamber to go with. If I have enough barrel left over after cut and you can make a chamber gauge that would be neat. I want to be able to fire a 175 on occasion and have it chamber without issues.

    5. Barrel crown. Im liking the early Atkinson barrel crown (picture included). Ive asked Mescabug for dimensions If he doesn’t reply with any Im pretty sure you can wing it and make me happy.

    6. Reciever cuts. Lug slot per A3 spec for a DD Ross scope rail. Rail provided is a TwoManAttack sourced part.

    For rail cuts I want the right side to be pretty much spec A3 spec at the ejection port/thumb cut. I really like A3 cuts that smoothly transition the radius of the port opening into the radius of the receiver rail. It’s a critical look to me.

    On the left side rail Id like to harken back to the original M40 cut by bringing the left side receiver rail cut back to where it would meet and transition into the radius of the DD Ross scope rail. Its fantasy and I think it will be a pleasing look, almost making the scope rail look like a monolithic part of the receiver.

    7. Scope rail as mentioned is a TwoManAttack copy of the DD Ross item. Open up the factory mount holes to the larger USMC spec 8/40 mount screws.

    8. Receiver, true up and blue print the receiver /bolt please. Check lugs for maximum contact.

    9. Finish will be a delicious black oxide USMC spec job.

    10. Last four of Serial Number stamped on appropriate places as per A3 build i.e. barrel, bolt , bottom metal, scope rail, Badger lug, anyplace Ive missed.

    11. I don’t need fantasy PWS stamps on the gun. It doesn’t meet any spec but mine. I think you deserve recognition as builder. Please tell me what your builder mark is before applying. Tastefull not billboard I assume. I like your Raven logo. My son is named Odin. Is your Raven Huginn or Muginn, Thought or Memory?

    12. I wanted an M24 trigger but never came across one. The 1968 trigger will give a tribute to the M40 with its date of manufacture and tombstone safety. This trigger supplied is light in my opinion. I don’t have a problem with light because I don’t hunt and primarily just shoot paper. Still a 3-4 pound trigger is more what I am used to. Go with the provided trigger and adjust/job as you think best. Maybe in the future Ill get an M24.


     
    I like the way you went with your scope rail blending. Nice touch. I think a 20" will be a handier rifle. With sticking to 168, you know you're not going to 1k so why add 4" if you gain nothing but weight? 20" will get 175s there, just sucks in the wind.

    Nice build. I'd be proud to own it.
     
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    I like the way you went with your scope rail blending. Nice touch. I think a 20" will be a handier rifle. With sticking to 168, you know you're not going to 1k so why add 4" if you gain nothing but weight? 20" will get 175s there, just sucks in the wind.

    Nice build. I'd be proud to own it.

    Ive since come to my senses some and will be shooting more 175s eventually just going all 175..

    Ive had it out to 1000 at Sig Academy and it does well.

    When I rebarrel Ill take some good advice I ignored and go with a bit faster twist - at least 1/10 maybe as low as quick as 1/8.

    left%20rail%20cut_zpsev67tota.jpg

    right%20side%20cut_zpsn6ewshc9.jpg

     
    Never considered it.

    Im pretty limited for range with only occasional chances to shoot to 600 and beyond. Living in the Northeast there are either houses or trees in the way.

    I didn't thread the barrel and cans are not an option in my Republik so Im not seeing the benefit of subsonic.

    My reloads are an attempt to get as close to FGMM as I can and the only thing limiting the rifle at my typical ranges with FGMM is my skills.
     
    168s are supposed to be slightly more accurate to 300M, and for years HP XTC shooters used 168s to 600 instead of 175s, with the twist you have It'll probably be a toss up. You could probably shoot 185 Juggernauts, but unless they shoot bugholes, what's the point of the extra recoil/cost?

     
    168s are supposed to be slightly more accurate to 300M, and for years HP XTC shooters used 168s to 600 instead of 175s, with the twist you have It'll probably be a toss up. You could probably shoot 185 Juggernauts, but unless they shoot bugholes, what's the point of the extra recoil/cost?

    Exactly what I was about to say. The 168 SMK ain' no joke below 600 and is the most accurate bullet out there for .30 til you start talking about ~115gr FB score BR bullets. Depending on what the barrel likes of course.