Anyone have any experience with these? As opposed to a Nikon Black FX1000, Vortex PST GEn 2 or Athlon Ares BTC? I'm pretty much shying away from the Ares, as there are too many complaints of mushy turrets, and supposedly the new ones aren't much better until you get into the ETC. I love Sig firearms, but have no exposure to their optics....
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Rifle Scopes Sig Sauer Tango 4 6x24x50 Thoughts???
- Thread starter Sled
- Start date
For the price that dealers are giving hide members on the Vortex PST g2 really why look at anything else. The ETR also going at very good pricing. Ask around you will probably find less than $800 pricing on the Gen2 viper 5-25
I'm new to the site and not sure who would have it that cheap, the least I've seen that scope for is $950.00. Anyone got a deal?
I paid significantly less than $950 for my sig Tango 4. I have the 6-24x50 on my RPR and it’s a nice scope. I fondled the Nikon black at a store the other day, and I’d take my sig over it any day. The sig has better turrets and a much better reticle IMO. I’ve got no complaints about the glass.
I really liked tango 4’s except for the durability factor. If that is not an issue then go for it.
SportOptics.com
I was able to get my Nikon FX1000 4-16 for $570 shipped. At that price it blows anything else away
I was able to get my Nikon FX1000 4-16 for $570 shipped. At that price it blows anything else away
Some glass and coatings don't work for some people. I get horrible eye strain and struggle to focus every vortex I've got behind. No idea why.
On the other hand, I can stare through the sig glass for hours and it focuses crisp and clean. Same goes for Nikon. I'll take a fx1000 over a razor any day just because I can look through Nikon glass for hour after hour.
I wouldn't be afraid of the sig, but you won't find many fans here.
Probably not a bad choice, I haven't used a Tango4, but I just had a new 4-24 Tango6 arrive, and it's either being returned or sent back to Sig out of the still sealed box. I'd wonder how that got past QC, but with Sig lately, I'm not surprised.
The windage knob is great, but something is off on the elevation knob. I noticed that when I'd make a click adjustment on the elevation knob, it would be sitting nice "in the click" with the number aligned on the index mark (say 5 mils) perfectly, clicks seemed solid etc. However I could not re-lock the elevation knob in any of the click positions. The only way it would go back into lock was to rotate the elevation to a "half click" position. Pull it up, rotate to a click, lines up perfect but won't lock, basically have to push down while turning it till it drops in, which probably can't be good for the gears. I thought perhaps it was just a zero stop, or knob setup issue, so I went through the manual and some videos, adjusted and rechecked everything and it seemed okay, but still had the same issue.
The only thing I noticed that seems out of sorts is that once you remove the marked elevation knob, and pull up on the inner black geared part to be adjusted for clicks, it feels loose like it has play, It's almost like the threaded post that goes through the center of the black geared knob, that you remove to get to the zero stop adjustment is too long, or the black geared part is too "thin".
The windage knob is great, but something is off on the elevation knob. I noticed that when I'd make a click adjustment on the elevation knob, it would be sitting nice "in the click" with the number aligned on the index mark (say 5 mils) perfectly, clicks seemed solid etc. However I could not re-lock the elevation knob in any of the click positions. The only way it would go back into lock was to rotate the elevation to a "half click" position. Pull it up, rotate to a click, lines up perfect but won't lock, basically have to push down while turning it till it drops in, which probably can't be good for the gears. I thought perhaps it was just a zero stop, or knob setup issue, so I went through the manual and some videos, adjusted and rechecked everything and it seemed okay, but still had the same issue.
The only thing I noticed that seems out of sorts is that once you remove the marked elevation knob, and pull up on the inner black geared part to be adjusted for clicks, it feels loose like it has play, It's almost like the threaded post that goes through the center of the black geared knob, that you remove to get to the zero stop adjustment is too long, or the black geared part is too "thin".
The turrets on the Tango 6 are totally different than on the 4. I think the Tango 6 has 30 min of elevation per rotation, the 4 has 12. I just checked my Tango 6 and it doesn’t fall straight into the locked turret from just about any adjustment. I have to wiggle the turret a little to get it to lock down. But I don’t have to rotate it any more than 1/4 of a click. I’m ok with it.
Maybe that's just how the Sig's are, but every other scope I've used with locking turrets in the $2000 price range you didn't have to twist the turret out of adjustment to get it to lock. A half click though to get it to lock down makes me nervous that the setting when it's unlocked isn't the same as when it's locked. At least on mine there's a huge difference between the windage and elevation knobs. The elevation goes in and out without issue.
I have the Sig Tango 4 6-24x50 on a Savage FCP .308 with a 20 MOA rail. I have mounted and remounted the scope several times and to zero I'm going over three revolutions in on the elevation turret. And this is with a 20 MOA rail!?! So, three revolutions (3 x 12 MOA) plus the rail (20 MOA) to get a 100 yrd zero. It doesn't leave me much elevation to take the rifle past 500 yrds. I run out of elevation really quickly.
I have had two of the tango6's both were nice scopes but a huge step up from the tango4 I played with. No issue with the 6 turrets but the 4 I felt like it could be a turned before it ever clicked... Really odd feeling very mushy the guy that owned it returned it to the store after some discussion with sig over a tracking issue, he was ok with the turret that felt like it was in mashed potatoes.
I have 40 moa of rails on my 556 RPR to get it out to 1000. The RPR comes with 20 built in and I had to mount the scope in a warne 20 MOA mount. Otherwise I could only get my tango 4 out to about 450 yards without hold over.
In the Equipment exchange sections several commerical members have posted stock and to inquire on Hide pricing.
I have the same scope mounted on a Tikka T3 TAC A1, using a Nightforce 20 MOA mount since the rail on the Tikka is 0 MOA. I easily get to 1,000 yards with this setup. A friend used the same rifle and scope and he had a problem getting to 100 yards - when I checked, he had the 20MOA Nightforce mount on backwards. You should not be having an issue zeroing at 100 yards.
Honestly I love the Dev-L reticle, and the glass seems quite clear. I wish the turrets were a little taller like the Tango6, but still usable. What I don't like is that its advertised everywhere as 19 mil vert travel, but is actuall 15 (their own website confirms this, but my fault for not looking). STILL, its a nice piece of work, that is very easy to use/see, with all of the right features you would expect in ~$1000. I can't say much on cost though as I managed to Snag it from an Amazon "Whoopsie" and got the 6-24x50 Dev-L for $580. They learned very, VERY fast they made a mistake, but still honored it.
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