Just bought a Sinclair Uniformer with the power adapter for .223, I put it on a drill and was wondering if you can take out too much material with this thing? Seems like the only way the brass would all be the same would be to press down until the brass is completely flat against the uniformer bit. Any suggestions on how to use this correctly?
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Sinclair Uniformer Question
- Thread starter dan46n2
- Start date
Re: Sinclair Uniformer Question
You got it, insert the cutter straight into the primer pocket and let the base of the case touch the shoulder of the cutter. Simple as that.
You got it, insert the cutter straight into the primer pocket and let the base of the case touch the shoulder of the cutter. Simple as that.
Re: Sinclair Uniformer Question
I thought the same thing when I first used mine so I didn't bottom it out. I then used it to clean the pockets after firing and removed a bit more brass with the carbon. So far it works great as a uniformer a primer pocket cleaner
I thought the same thing when I first used mine so I didn't bottom it out. I then used it to clean the pockets after firing and removed a bit more brass with the carbon. So far it works great as a uniformer a primer pocket cleaner
Re: Sinclair Uniformer Question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Roccafella</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I thought the same thing when I first used mine so I didn't bottom it out. I then used it to clean the pockets after firing and removed a bit more brass with the carbon. So far it works great as a uniformer a primer pocket cleaner </div></div>
Yeah it seems like it takes out quite a bit of material if you bottom it out, I was concerned about that.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Roccafella</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I thought the same thing when I first used mine so I didn't bottom it out. I then used it to clean the pockets after firing and removed a bit more brass with the carbon. So far it works great as a uniformer a primer pocket cleaner </div></div>
Yeah it seems like it takes out quite a bit of material if you bottom it out, I was concerned about that.
Re: Sinclair Uniformer Question
You do get a little brass flow on fired cases.I sometimes get a few brass chips when using mine to clean with. Pete
You do get a little brass flow on fired cases.I sometimes get a few brass chips when using mine to clean with. Pete
Re: Sinclair Uniformer Question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dan46n2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yeah it seems like it takes out quite a bit of material if you bottom it out, I was concerned about that. </div></div>
The purpose of the tool is to bottom it out so that the primer is at the correct depth and on an even surface.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dan46n2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yeah it seems like it takes out quite a bit of material if you bottom it out, I was concerned about that. </div></div>
The purpose of the tool is to bottom it out so that the primer is at the correct depth and on an even surface.
Re: Sinclair Uniformer Question
bottoming out assures every pocket is the same depth as to provide consistant ignition.you may also notice the ammount of brass removed may varry from lot to lot.
bottoming out assures every pocket is the same depth as to provide consistant ignition.you may also notice the ammount of brass removed may varry from lot to lot.
Re: Sinclair Uniformer Question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dan46n2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Yeah it seems like it takes out quite a bit of material if you bottom it out, I was concerned about that. </div></div>
The bottom of the primer pocket edges are rounded. The tool rests against that curvature initially and makes it look like it is removing alot of material. In reality, it is just squaring the bottom and cutting out just a little bit more.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dan46n2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Yeah it seems like it takes out quite a bit of material if you bottom it out, I was concerned about that. </div></div>
The bottom of the primer pocket edges are rounded. The tool rests against that curvature initially and makes it look like it is removing alot of material. In reality, it is just squaring the bottom and cutting out just a little bit more.
Re: Sinclair Uniformer Question
I use the Sinclair uniformers for both small and large rifle primer pocket uniforming and cleaning. They are great. I use the cutter with their power drill adapter (1/4 hex I believe) and use a Milwaukee 4V power screwdriver.
1st pass typically cuts at the center. 2nd pass the whole pocket (and produces the most chips). 3rd pass it finishes the hole and I put it away and on to the next one. Great tool!
Now only if we could get something from Giraud that would do this in a single step. I can only do so many before the hands start to hurt from holding the case that wants to rotate so anything that automates this beyond my current setup would be of interest.
I use the Sinclair uniformers for both small and large rifle primer pocket uniforming and cleaning. They are great. I use the cutter with their power drill adapter (1/4 hex I believe) and use a Milwaukee 4V power screwdriver.
1st pass typically cuts at the center. 2nd pass the whole pocket (and produces the most chips). 3rd pass it finishes the hole and I put it away and on to the next one. Great tool!
Now only if we could get something from Giraud that would do this in a single step. I can only do so many before the hands start to hurt from holding the case that wants to rotate so anything that automates this beyond my current setup would be of interest.
Re: Sinclair Uniformer Question
I got a piece of rubber tubing just like surgical tubing about an inch in diameter and cut a short piece off to hold the brass. Works great but hard to find. I got mine at garage door place, something they use as a bottom seal but any piece of rubber should work. I haven't found a bad tool yet from Sinclair. I've got the flash hole deburring tool with the stop on it and while it's a pain to keep the shavings cleaned out of it every flash hole is the same and you don't have to trim every case to the same length to use it.
I got a piece of rubber tubing just like surgical tubing about an inch in diameter and cut a short piece off to hold the brass. Works great but hard to find. I got mine at garage door place, something they use as a bottom seal but any piece of rubber should work. I haven't found a bad tool yet from Sinclair. I've got the flash hole deburring tool with the stop on it and while it's a pain to keep the shavings cleaned out of it every flash hole is the same and you don't have to trim every case to the same length to use it.
Re: Sinclair Uniformer Question
I use an 18v cordless power drill. I set it on a table (so i don't have to hold it up) and run the brass in twice. Running the brass in the uniformer a second time insures that the pocket is cut as uniform as the next. You will notice a difference in seating primers if you are using a hand tool, the seating is much more consistant. Consistancy is the name of the game.
I use an 18v cordless power drill. I set it on a table (so i don't have to hold it up) and run the brass in twice. Running the brass in the uniformer a second time insures that the pocket is cut as uniform as the next. You will notice a difference in seating primers if you are using a hand tool, the seating is much more consistant. Consistancy is the name of the game.
Re: Sinclair Uniformer Question
I assume you are guys are talking about the Sinclair one piece uniformers?
I say this because they made two. The first generation chucks in a 1/2" drill and the cutter depth is adjustable by the user and set with a set screw. The early one also cut small and large primer pockets.
It was a real trick to get the depth adjusted right but once done works like a champ.
Would someone with one of the one piece jobs measure the height of the cutter blades above the base that rides the case head. I am interested to see what the "manufactured pre set one" is set at for both small and large rifle.
I assume you are guys are talking about the Sinclair one piece uniformers?
I say this because they made two. The first generation chucks in a 1/2" drill and the cutter depth is adjustable by the user and set with a set screw. The early one also cut small and large primer pockets.
It was a real trick to get the depth adjusted right but once done works like a champ.
Would someone with one of the one piece jobs measure the height of the cutter blades above the base that rides the case head. I am interested to see what the "manufactured pre set one" is set at for both small and large rifle.
Re: Sinclair Uniformer Question
Hummer,I just meausured mine; lg rifle=.129 sm rifle=.123 Meausured each more than once,just to be sure.Hope this helps. Pete
Hummer,I just meausured mine; lg rifle=.129 sm rifle=.123 Meausured each more than once,just to be sure.Hope this helps. Pete
Re: Sinclair Uniformer Question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tracer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use an 18v cordless power drill. I set it on a table (so i don't have to hold it up) and run the brass in twice. Running the brass in the uniformer a second time insures that the pocket is cut as uniform as the next. You will notice a difference in seating primers if you are using a hand tool, the seating is much more consistant. Consistancy is the name of the game. </div></div>
This is what I use, sitting on the floor, using the coffee table. I have a loop of string that I tied around the drill grip and I insert a plain old dinner knife and twist it tight until I get the desired RPMs. I then go to town.
I think Sinclair mentions not to go above 1100 RPMs with their cutters, I believe it is.
Works like a charm on Lg/Sm pockets.
Chris
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tracer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use an 18v cordless power drill. I set it on a table (so i don't have to hold it up) and run the brass in twice. Running the brass in the uniformer a second time insures that the pocket is cut as uniform as the next. You will notice a difference in seating primers if you are using a hand tool, the seating is much more consistant. Consistancy is the name of the game. </div></div>
This is what I use, sitting on the floor, using the coffee table. I have a loop of string that I tied around the drill grip and I insert a plain old dinner knife and twist it tight until I get the desired RPMs. I then go to town.
I think Sinclair mentions not to go above 1100 RPMs with their cutters, I believe it is.
Works like a charm on Lg/Sm pockets.
Chris
Re: Sinclair Uniformer Question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChrisGarrett</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This is what I use, sitting on the floor, using the coffee table. I have a loop of string that I tied around the drill grip and I insert a plain old dinner knife and twist it tight until I get the desired RPMs. I then go to town.</div></div>
Find one of those zip ties that you can re-use.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChrisGarrett</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This is what I use, sitting on the floor, using the coffee table. I have a loop of string that I tied around the drill grip and I insert a plain old dinner knife and twist it tight until I get the desired RPMs. I then go to town.</div></div>
Find one of those zip ties that you can re-use.
