Sizing brass without expanderball?

leoestby

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Hi, I want to check if I can remove run-out on my brass without expanderball in my redding type s die.

But I'm getting some dents in my brass after shooting, and this is demaging my bullets when seating.

Do you ad an extra step in your realoding process, or do you take EXTRA care with your brass after shots?
 
Re: Sizing brass without expanderball?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: leoestby</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hi, I want to check if I can remove run-out on my brass without expanderball in my redding type s die.

But I'm getting some dents in my brass after shooting, and this is demaging my bullets when seating.

Do you ad an extra step in your realoding process, or do you take EXTRA care with your brass after shots? </div></div>

If you are getting dents in your case necks and you are shooting a bolt gun you just need to be more careful about how you eject your spent brass. If this is due to shooting under time constraints say in a comp you will just need to live with it and take the extra step of using an expander before neck sizing in the type S die. Are you using Redding type S full length sizing dies or the regular type S and a body die as needed?

HTH!
 
Re: Sizing brass without expanderball?

I use the Redding Carbide Floating expander ball, by selecting the correct sizing bushing it barely touches the inside and takes care of the dent, I brush the inside of my necks before sizing, and use graphite powder for the ball and Imperial sizing wax on the outside.
 
Re: Sizing brass without expanderball?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: aloreman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use a sinclair expander die </div></div>
This, then run thru your sizer without the exp ball.
The expander can cause a lot of runout if it isn't right.

If nothing else pull it out, size, and check to see if that is the problem.
 
Re: Sizing brass without expanderball?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: X-fan</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: aloreman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use a sinclair expander die </div></div>
This, then run thru your sizer without the exp ball.
The expander can cause a lot of runout if it isn't right.

If nothing else pull it out, size, and check to see if that is the problem.</div></div>

Do you have an link to the sinclair die? Don't know what to look for.

Thanks for good answers!! :)
 
Re: Sizing brass without expanderball?

Agree with the Redding die recommendation, but I have been myself told that one improvement over even that is to use a mandrel in the Redding die instead of an expander ball. Sinclair has them for the Redding dies.

The mandrel is a better shape for easier use and ideal diameter for bulelt-to-neck-wall tension.

Perhaps someone can explain it better than I can (I am too new to it myself).

Jim G
 
Re: Sizing brass without expanderball?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 427Cobra</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use the Redding Carbide Floating expander ball, by selecting the correct sizing bushing it barely touches the inside and takes care of the dent, I brush the inside of my necks before sizing, and use graphite powder for the ball and Imperial sizing wax on the outside. </div></div>

+1... been doing it this way for years. No need to f$ck around with a separate expander step.
 
Re: Sizing brass without expanderball?

I'm <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: memilanuk</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 427Cobra</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use the Redding Carbide Floating expander ball, by selecting the correct sizing bushing it barely touches the inside and takes care of the dent, I brush the inside of my necks before sizing, and use graphite powder for the ball and Imperial sizing wax on the outside. </div></div>

+1... been doing it this way for years. No need to f$ck around with a separate expander step.</div></div>

Agree, this seems to be my solution to. Thanks guys :)
 
Re: Sizing brass without expanderball?

Snclaire carbide neck turning mandrel. It sits in the holder, free floats and provides a VERY nice expansion just to bullet diameter. Just pick your neck size using to get about .002 tension or what you need , then Neck size it down and then run the neck sized case through the carbide mandrel. Let the mandrel sit in the entire length of the neck for about 5 seconds, this gives the brass time to settle, then take it out and your done. No internal lube required. It's nice and VERY consistent . , the next step is primer and powder then load.
The neck turning mandrel is much easier on the brass and it's a straight shank. I get less than .0015 runout with all my Lapua brass this way from .223 all the way up to .338.

It works great on less consistent brass as well, like win or rem.
 
Re: Sizing brass without expanderball?

A less expensive alternative to the Sinclair is the K&M expander die. Works great. Lube the insides of the neck with the graphite. Helps on the sizing and in my experience reduces runout when seating the bullet.
 
Re: Sizing brass without expanderball?

s<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: memilanuk</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 427Cobra</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use the Redding Carbide Floating expander ball, by selecting the correct sizing bushing it barely touches the inside and takes care of the dent, I brush the inside of my necks before sizing, and use graphite powder for the ball and Imperial sizing wax on the outside. </div></div>

+1... been doing it this way for years. No need to f$ck around with a separate expander step. </div></div>

Well...I have had Redding dies that would not produce consistently straight ammo (could not do better than 6 thou). In almost every case the problem was traced back to the expander ball. Of further note is that I always start with the good expander so I am not talking about the factory garbage expander which often comes both bent and off size.
Not saying what 427Cobra say doesn't work. In fact it usually does the trick.

I will say I in almost every case I can get better and more consistent runout with an expander followed by running no ball in the die.

No need to fuk around?

Well...that depends on what you are reloading...A guy running a thousand rounds of 556 for his 223 should not waste his time.

On the other hand a guy building precise small quantity 6mmbr ammo or expensive 1500 yard 338Lapua rounds will likely find some benefit.
 
Re: Sizing brass without expanderball?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: former naval person</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A less expensive alternative to the Sinclair is the K&M expander die. Works great. Lube the insides of the neck with the graphite. Helps on the sizing and in my experience reduces runout when seating the bullet. </div></div>

Looks like a good option and way less money than Sinclair.
Sinclair Expander
 
Re: Sizing brass without expanderball?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I will say I in almost every case I can get better and more consistent runout with an expander followed by running no ball in the die. </div></div>

There's the fun bit about the Internet... I've spent considerable time and effort myself, and in pretty much every caliber I load 'precision' ammo for (currently about a half dozen or so, from .223 Rem to .338LM) I've been unable to see a meaningful long term difference between running sizing and expanding the neck separately vs. using the floating carbide ball and doing it all in one pass.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well...that depends on what you are reloading...A guy running a thousand rounds of 556 for his 223 should not waste his time.</div></div>

Kinda mixin' apples and oranges there man. I wouldn't even bother with bushing dies for that stuff (and don't).

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">On the other hand a guy building precise small quantity 6mmbr ammo or expensive 1500 yard 338Lapua rounds will likely find some benefit. </div></div>

Mmmmm... gonna have to disagree with you there. And I *do* load some fairly high quality 'precision' ammo for the games I play in.
 
Re: Sizing brass without expanderball?

Using Monte's trick with the floating carbide ball most of my loaded are in the zero to .002 range, very few are more than that, I use Redding Type S FL die and a Wilson inline seating die for both 308 and 260, I also neck turn my 260 brass(Win 7-08) but not my 308 brass.
 
Re: Sizing brass without expanderball?

My personal preference is a forster full length die with the neck honed out to my specs. Basically it runs like a redding type s full length die with neck bushings without having to use the bushings or an expander.

You lose the versatility of bushings but my runout on my brass improved.

I picked up a forster full length sizer for my .223 and I left that as is with the expander in it, and runout after sizing is usually no more than .001" TIR. Occasionally I'll get around .003" TIR on some, but not very many.
 
Re: Sizing brass without expanderball?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: leoestby</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hi, I want to check if I can remove run-out on my brass without expanderball in my redding type s die.

But I'm getting some dents in my brass after shooting, and this is demaging my bullets when seating.

Do you ad an extra step in your realoding process, or do you take EXTRA care with your brass after shots? </div></div>

Do you have a good case concentricity measuring tool like a Sinclair, RCBS or Bruno's? Without a few good measurement tools you have no idea where you are. Making changes to your reloading process without using good measurement tools and documenting your findings is much like shooting in the dark. You have no DOPE so you have no idea what if anything to adjust.

HTH!
 
Re: Sizing brass without expanderball?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: leoestby</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Generation II?

Open up the mouth with Gen II and resizing it with bushing die after? </div></div>

I think this is what you want to do. When you use the type S die don't use the expander in the die which tends to increase case neck run-out.

But you can save some pretty good money by using what you already have in hand. Just make a first pass using a Redding expander as supplied with the Redding type S dies on cases with damaged case necks then a making a second pass to neck and body size using the same type S bushing die but with the expander removed.

If you are shooting a production rifle your cases will very likely benefit from making a first pass on ALL cases with a bushing sized 0.005" larger than your final neck size and then making a second pass with the selected target bushing size and the expander removed. Sizing this way eliminates your neck dents and increases your neck tension consistency while improving your case neck concentricity.
 
Re: Sizing brass without expanderball?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Frogman77</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My personal preference is a forster full length die with the neck honed out to my specs. Basically it runs like a redding type s full length die with neck bushings without having to use the bushings or an expander.

You lose the versatility of bushings but my runout on my brass improved.

</div></div>
I prefer this system as well.
I also most often get even better runout with a bushing-less system.

When you factor in what the Redding bushings cost I find the Forster custom dies are pretty affordable actually.
 
Re: Sizing brass without expanderball?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: X-fan</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Frogman77</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My personal preference is a forster full length die with the neck honed out to my specs. Basically it runs like a redding type s full length die with neck bushings without having to use the bushings or an expander.

You lose the versatility of bushings but my runout on my brass improved.

</div></div>
I prefer this system as well.
I also most often get even better runout with a bushing-less system.

When you factor in what the Redding bushings cost I find the Forster custom dies are pretty affordable actually. </div></div>

Having custom dies ground this way limits you to cases with a neck thickness that is the same as whatever case you used. This is an expensive way to size a wide variety of different lots of brass unless you only use neck turned brass.

I don't turn necks and can use a wide mix of Remington, Black Hills Match and FGMM .308 brass some of which has been reloaded 10-20 times. I'm currently using Redding bushing dies and I typically see loaded cases with neck run-out numbers in the 0.0015"-0.002" range with the occasional TIR of 0.003". But all of the cases with case neck TIR more than 0.002" are old very R%P cases which have been reloaded 15-20 times and with neck thickness which varies up to 0.0035".

AFAIK a loaded case with a case neck run-out bellow 0.002" is well bellow what will cause significant accuracy issues even at very long ranges as many other factors have more influence over POI at long ranges.

That being said I'm a tactical shooter so I'm more concerned about reliably hitting the black every time than making the distinction between a 10 or X.

HTH!
 
Re: Sizing brass without expanderball?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: YAOG</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Having custom dies ground this way limits you to cases with a neck thickness that is the same as whatever case you used. This is an expensive way to size a wide variety of different lots of brass unless you only use neck turned brass.

I don't turn necks and can use a wide mix of Remington, Black Hills Match and FGMM .308 brass some of which has been reloaded 10-20 times. I'm currently using Redding bushing dies and I typically see loaded cases with neck run-out numbers in the 0.0015"-0.002" range with the occasional TIR of 0.003". But all of the cases with case neck TIR more than 0.002" are old very R%P cases which have been reloaded 15-20 times and with neck thickness which varies up to 0.0035".

AFAIK a loaded case with a case neck run-out bellow 0.002" is well bellow what will cause significant accuracy issues even at very long ranges as many other factors have more influence over POI at long ranges.

That being said I'm a tactical shooter so I'm more concerned about reliably hitting the black every time than making the distinction between a 10 or X.

HTH!
</div></div>

It seems some of you get better runout than I get on average with a tuned up Redding and no touch necks.
I certainly agree with your assessment with regard to tactical rifles. In my tactical rifles I generally don't care so long as the runout is less than 5-6 thou..It just doesn't seem to make a noticeable difference in the big guns.

FWIW when I get a new barrel I buy all the brass I need to shoot the barrel out with room to spare.
One run of brass seems to help a lot and after a few long hours of sorting and blueprinting I'm off to order a few custom die bodies..usually three. One for the small virginal stuff, the next on at about 5-6 firings, and one for the old lumpy stuff.

With lapua brass I generally run 2 dies and NT at about 6 or so firings or when it gets too thick.

In terms of cost difference it isn't as much as you might think nor do you loose flexibility.

3 Forster custom ground sizers cost about $200.00 to my doorstep while with Redding you have the sizer and three bushings (depending on which die and bushings you choose)for about $140.00. Then you need the good expander ($40.00) for a cost of around $180.00. So the cost is much closer than you might think.
 
Re: Sizing brass without expanderball?

I have also wondered about this. I have got neck, fl, small based ect... For all my rifles. I usually just fl resize them trim to min specifications. Then I deburr and chamfer with a rcbs case prep whatever it's called. I just chamfer em where they slide in nice and and smooth. W/o the expader ball would this this almost be comparable to crimping? Haven't had any issues ever and always shoot sub moa. Thoughts?