so I am running an XLR element chassis on a Remington 700 with a 29” Hart heavy barrel....what’s that have to do with a sling? It’s HEAVY!!!! What attachment method would you recommend and if you can, please provide links to them. Thanks
Sling attachment methods
- Thread starter Nooch13
- Start date
I have a XLR Evolution. Using a QD for the socket on the stock, and a Blue Force Gear wire loop on the front. Just because it was already sitting around. XLR sells QD sockets.
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I have an element with xlrs front qd socket. My rifle is around 15lbs and shows no sign of not being strong enough. People have been using qd for a long time on heavy precision rifles
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Any way you could provide any more details on that? A pic would be greatly appreciated!
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They work fine for me, granted it’s pretty light duty use. It’s hard to see how a fella could bust one of these BFG wire loops if that’s a concern!
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What do you mean by "failed" guys? Push Button, Flush Cups, Quick Release, whatever you call them, work very well. Accuracy International switched to them a few years ago because they work so well and it is not uncommon for those rifles to weigh around 20 pounds all kitted out. Most stock manufacturers have them as factory installed features in their stocks now.
I love flush cup swivels and use them on almost all of my rifles.
With that being said there are a few things you need to be aware of with these types of sling attachment points:
1. The cup that is installed in the stock must not be so deep that the machined ridge in the cup will not allow the ball bearings in the swivel to properly engage into said ridge.
2. Like anything preventative maintenance must be conducted on these swivels by keeping the cup ridge clean and the ball bearings clean and lubricated. If you don't keep either of these clean then the ball bearings will not be able to properly seat themselves into the ridge securely. If you're in such a dusty, wet, or dirty environment that you pull your bolt out to wipe it or the action down out after a day of use give the cup and swivel a quick look and a wipe down too.
3. Keep an eye on aftermarket rails that have flush cups in them for wear. Several years ago I had an aluminum rail on the fore end of a rifle that had the cup machined into it to attach the front sling flush cup . After a few years of use the ridge become worn enough that the ball bearings would not stay engaged any more. I don't know what the aluminum composition of the rail was but when you have steel wearing on aluminum it will eventually become worn out.
4. Anytime I install a sling on a rifle using these swivels I give each end a good hard tug several times to ensure that everything is working like it should.
I have one customer who had a fore end of a rifle that was small enough in diameter that a regular flush cup swivel allowed the convex top of the flush cup to stick out enough and hit some of his gear depressing the plunger and allowing the swivel to come out. We remedied this by using flush cup swivels with recessed plungers.
Of the literally thousands of flush cups swivels we've used we've only had a handful of problems with them and the vast majority of those instances have been traced to lack of preventative maintenance issues that I listed above.
We only use Grovtec Flush Cup swivels and Milforce swivels in our slings. In our opinion they're the best swivels on the market, they're made in the USA, and the folks making them are some of the best to deal with anywhere. Also, just because it's made in the USA doesn't mean it's a good piece of equipment either. If you have a set of Talon swivels on a rifle I recommend immediately removing them and crushing them with a hammer before throwing them away. In my opinion they're as bad or worse than a cheap Chinese Uncle Mikes swivel.
There are several different companies selling flush cup swivels under their own name. Most of them are Grovtec swivels and are good to go. If you purchase swivels under someone else's name I'd confirm that they are Grovetec before buying them.
Don't cheap out on your sling swivels to save a few dollars. You don't want to be in the middle of nowhere, or a match you've saved up to go to, and have one fail on you and watch your rifle take a tumble only to find out the few dollars in saving has resulted in you having no faith that your rifle is still zeroed
In my opinion the flush cup method of sling attachment is not going away anytime soon and with common sense maintenance you should not have any trouble with them in your weapon system.
I love flush cup swivels and use them on almost all of my rifles.
With that being said there are a few things you need to be aware of with these types of sling attachment points:
1. The cup that is installed in the stock must not be so deep that the machined ridge in the cup will not allow the ball bearings in the swivel to properly engage into said ridge.
2. Like anything preventative maintenance must be conducted on these swivels by keeping the cup ridge clean and the ball bearings clean and lubricated. If you don't keep either of these clean then the ball bearings will not be able to properly seat themselves into the ridge securely. If you're in such a dusty, wet, or dirty environment that you pull your bolt out to wipe it or the action down out after a day of use give the cup and swivel a quick look and a wipe down too.
3. Keep an eye on aftermarket rails that have flush cups in them for wear. Several years ago I had an aluminum rail on the fore end of a rifle that had the cup machined into it to attach the front sling flush cup . After a few years of use the ridge become worn enough that the ball bearings would not stay engaged any more. I don't know what the aluminum composition of the rail was but when you have steel wearing on aluminum it will eventually become worn out.
4. Anytime I install a sling on a rifle using these swivels I give each end a good hard tug several times to ensure that everything is working like it should.
I have one customer who had a fore end of a rifle that was small enough in diameter that a regular flush cup swivel allowed the convex top of the flush cup to stick out enough and hit some of his gear depressing the plunger and allowing the swivel to come out. We remedied this by using flush cup swivels with recessed plungers.
Of the literally thousands of flush cups swivels we've used we've only had a handful of problems with them and the vast majority of those instances have been traced to lack of preventative maintenance issues that I listed above.
We only use Grovtec Flush Cup swivels and Milforce swivels in our slings. In our opinion they're the best swivels on the market, they're made in the USA, and the folks making them are some of the best to deal with anywhere. Also, just because it's made in the USA doesn't mean it's a good piece of equipment either. If you have a set of Talon swivels on a rifle I recommend immediately removing them and crushing them with a hammer before throwing them away. In my opinion they're as bad or worse than a cheap Chinese Uncle Mikes swivel.
There are several different companies selling flush cup swivels under their own name. Most of them are Grovtec swivels and are good to go. If you purchase swivels under someone else's name I'd confirm that they are Grovetec before buying them.
Don't cheap out on your sling swivels to save a few dollars. You don't want to be in the middle of nowhere, or a match you've saved up to go to, and have one fail on you and watch your rifle take a tumble only to find out the few dollars in saving has resulted in you having no faith that your rifle is still zeroed
In my opinion the flush cup method of sling attachment is not going away anytime soon and with common sense maintenance you should not have any trouble with them in your weapon system.
