Any recommendations? The two brands I found on Midway- A-ZOOM and Tipton -have mixed reviews at best.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Snap cap suggestions?
- Thread starter BigBrother
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Re: Snap cap suggestions?
I just like to train for highpower as closely to the real deal as possible, complete with rounds that will safely feed and chamber from a mag, etc.
Helps nail down timing and whatnot. Short of actual gas-operated cycling, snap caps do the trick.
I just like to train for highpower as closely to the real deal as possible, complete with rounds that will safely feed and chamber from a mag, etc.
Helps nail down timing and whatnot. Short of actual gas-operated cycling, snap caps do the trick.
Re: Snap cap suggestions?
I have used the Azoom snap caps and they work fine, but don't feel the same as real cartridges. I now use some Dummy rounds I got an at Armorers course. They are just softpoint bullets in RP brass that is blackened.
If you load dummies, MAKE SURE you do something to visually differentiate them from live rounds. I have been looking for the stuff they use to blacken snaps to color the cases on the next batch of dummies I make. It would suck to get distracted and load up a live round during your training session. Even the best intentions fail when you put a hole in something you didn't intend to.
As to the "why". Yes, a center fire rifle does not need snap caps for dry firing. However on a Remington 700 there is a distinct difference in the way the bolt feels when you close it on a cartridge or an empty chamber. I train with dummies because I need to program my brain to recognize the difference. It's easy to loose count of how many times you have pulled the trigger, but when the bolt slides forward without resistance, your brain need to recognize that there is a problem.
Dry firing with dummy rounds is more work because you have to reload the weapon with them. However it also programs the loading routine into memory.
For professionals it's mandatory. Train like you fight. If you are loading cartridges in the gun for real, then you need to be doing it in training.
I have used the Azoom snap caps and they work fine, but don't feel the same as real cartridges. I now use some Dummy rounds I got an at Armorers course. They are just softpoint bullets in RP brass that is blackened.
If you load dummies, MAKE SURE you do something to visually differentiate them from live rounds. I have been looking for the stuff they use to blacken snaps to color the cases on the next batch of dummies I make. It would suck to get distracted and load up a live round during your training session. Even the best intentions fail when you put a hole in something you didn't intend to.
As to the "why". Yes, a center fire rifle does not need snap caps for dry firing. However on a Remington 700 there is a distinct difference in the way the bolt feels when you close it on a cartridge or an empty chamber. I train with dummies because I need to program my brain to recognize the difference. It's easy to loose count of how many times you have pulled the trigger, but when the bolt slides forward without resistance, your brain need to recognize that there is a problem.
Dry firing with dummy rounds is more work because you have to reload the weapon with them. However it also programs the loading routine into memory.
For professionals it's mandatory. Train like you fight. If you are loading cartridges in the gun for real, then you need to be doing it in training.
Re: Snap cap suggestions?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LoneWolfUSMC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you load dummies, MAKE SURE you do something to visually differentiate them from live rounds. Even the best intentions fail when you put a hole in something you didn't intend to.</div></div>
Relax.... What could possibly go wrong??? Stop being so negative.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LoneWolfUSMC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you load dummies, MAKE SURE you do something to visually differentiate them from live rounds. Even the best intentions fail when you put a hole in something you didn't intend to.</div></div>
Relax.... What could possibly go wrong??? Stop being so negative.
Re: Snap cap suggestions?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LoneWolfUSMC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As to the "why". Yes, a center fire rifle does not need snap caps for dry firing. However on a Remington 700 there is a distinct difference in the way the bolt feels when you close it on a cartridge or an empty chamber. I train with dummies because I need to program my brain to recognize the difference. It's easy to loose count of how many times you have pulled the trigger, but when the bolt slides forward without resistance, your brain need to recognize that there is a problem.
Dry firing with dummy rounds is more work because you have to reload the weapon with them. However it also programs the loading routine into memory.
</div></div>
Yep LoneWolf, that's exactly why I'm interested in them. That and the fact that loading helps for timing estimates on slow fire rounds for highpower.
Re: differentiation, yeah, I was planning on striping the bullets in black with a sharpie. Not to mention I'd keep them on my desk in my room where I dry fire. Live ammo is never really handled except to be placed into containers on match day, and that's kept in a separate safe.
On a side question, since I'm not familiar with handloading yet, could these be made with just a spent case and a bullet, or do you have to fill in the primer area? Is it safe for the hammer to be falling on a case with no primer at all?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LoneWolfUSMC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As to the "why". Yes, a center fire rifle does not need snap caps for dry firing. However on a Remington 700 there is a distinct difference in the way the bolt feels when you close it on a cartridge or an empty chamber. I train with dummies because I need to program my brain to recognize the difference. It's easy to loose count of how many times you have pulled the trigger, but when the bolt slides forward without resistance, your brain need to recognize that there is a problem.
Dry firing with dummy rounds is more work because you have to reload the weapon with them. However it also programs the loading routine into memory.
</div></div>
Yep LoneWolf, that's exactly why I'm interested in them. That and the fact that loading helps for timing estimates on slow fire rounds for highpower.
Re: differentiation, yeah, I was planning on striping the bullets in black with a sharpie. Not to mention I'd keep them on my desk in my room where I dry fire. Live ammo is never really handled except to be placed into containers on match day, and that's kept in a separate safe.
On a side question, since I'm not familiar with handloading yet, could these be made with just a spent case and a bullet, or do you have to fill in the primer area? Is it safe for the hammer to be falling on a case with no primer at all?
Re: Snap cap suggestions?
Yep, just case and bullet. No need for a primer substitute. The firing pin can hit the stop inside the bolt face. It's a pretty thick chunk of metal.
Yep, just case and bullet. No need for a primer substitute. The firing pin can hit the stop inside the bolt face. It's a pretty thick chunk of metal.
Re: Snap cap suggestions?
If you are going to make a single dummy round you don't need reloading equiptment. Use a taperd dowel and slid it in until it stops then a couple of light taps of a hammer to expand the mouth. easy on it here, in fact try and get a boattail bullet in first. Next tap a bullet into the case using a rubber mallet, 2x4 etc. you can put a cut off pencil eraser into the primer pocket if you want, but I wouldn't worry about it. As a safety precaution you may want to use a black or red sharpie to mark the dummy round in so you do not accidently load a live round and light it off in the house.
If you are going to make a single dummy round you don't need reloading equiptment. Use a taperd dowel and slid it in until it stops then a couple of light taps of a hammer to expand the mouth. easy on it here, in fact try and get a boattail bullet in first. Next tap a bullet into the case using a rubber mallet, 2x4 etc. you can put a cut off pencil eraser into the primer pocket if you want, but I wouldn't worry about it. As a safety precaution you may want to use a black or red sharpie to mark the dummy round in so you do not accidently load a live round and light it off in the house.
Re: Snap cap suggestions?
This would probably work for marking the cases http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/blueing_index.asp?categoryID=1&subcat=5&prodcat=87
This would probably work for marking the cases http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/blueing_index.asp?categoryID=1&subcat=5&prodcat=87
Re: Snap cap suggestions?
When I make dummy rounds I cross drill the body of the case in 2 places with an 1/8" drill bit. The hole in the case wall is obvious and clearly a "demilled" item. Nobody can call it ammunition any more.
For snappers I use tipton's option. They feed properly and they're cheap, and the case head is made of brass so that the extractors don't whoop them up too badly.
When I make dummy rounds I cross drill the body of the case in 2 places with an 1/8" drill bit. The hole in the case wall is obvious and clearly a "demilled" item. Nobody can call it ammunition any more.
For snappers I use tipton's option. They feed properly and they're cheap, and the case head is made of brass so that the extractors don't whoop them up too badly.
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