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So much for the trusty, reliable Beretta 92
- Thread starter HousePlant
- Start date
Some 1911 comp'd race gun barrels were mounted to the frame but those were custom builds.
Got it. I want to try out a Laugo but they are pricey at least $4K if available. Looks like peeps have been buying the $5K Laugo kit then selling on Gunbroker for $8K-$10K.
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Right, if you’re an idiot who doesn’t know how to properly reassemble your Glock slide, or if you polish parts you know nothing about, then sure. So let me clarify: I’m talking about a properly maintained, functioning Glock in good condition that just suddenly goes full-auto.
Go actually read all of those threads you’ve found, or try watching the video you posted (reference point C below). Either a) someone used aftermarket parts, b) someone changed the geometry of a part/parts to try and lighten the trigger, c) someone didn’t assemble the slide correctly after removing the firing pin plunger, or d) they’re not maintaining it correctly and something (carbon build up, too much oil/grease, etc.) is causing the firing pin plunger to stick, the firing pin to stick, or there’s an obstruction in the trigger mechanism.
ALL of these (as in every last one) are operator error, and are no fault of the pistol or its design. If your Glock went full-auto, then an individual (ie, you) did something they should not have done to the internals of the gun. Period.
So I’ll say it again: a Glock that was unmolested (stock/factory configuration) and functioning just fine will not, suddenly and without cause, go full-auto because it’s a “poor design.” It CAN, however, do this if the monkey running the gun screws something up. That’s on you, bud. Not the gun.
For what it’s worth, the same incompetence in maintaining or modifying your beloved Colt can also result in full-auto fire. It’s not any more immune to stupid people than a Glock, and many would argue more so. Same goes for these “AwFuL” Berettas or anything else. If an idiot is tinkering with them, problems may arise.
Your not getting a damn thing from me grandpa, let alone some asinine paper…
I never cared for race guns with barrels mounted to the frame. The gun, especially in .38 Super, seemed to explode in your hands instead of the rolling clunk clunk recoil of a linked barrel unlocking from battery.
Right, if you’re an idiot who doesn’t know how to properly reassemble your Glock slide, or if you polish parts you know nothing about, then sure. So let me clarify: I’m talking about a properly maintained, functioning Glock in good condition that just suddenly goes full-auto.
Go actually read all of those threads you’ve found, or try watching the video you posted (reference point C below). Either a) someone used aftermarket parts, b) someone changed the geometry of a part/parts to try and lighten the trigger, c) someone didn’t assemble the slide correctly after removing the firing pin plunger, or d) they’re not maintaining it correctly and something (carbon build up, too much oil/grease, etc.) is causing the firing pin plunger to stick, the firing pin to stick, or there’s an obstruction in the trigger mechanism.
ALL of these (as in every last one) are operator error, and are no fault of the pistol or its design. If your Glock went full-auto, then an individual (ie, you) did something they should not have done to the internals of the gun. Period.
So I’ll say it again: a Glock that was unmolested (stock/factory configuration) and functioning just fine will not, suddenly and without cause, go full-auto because it’s a “poor design.” It CAN, however, do this if the monkey running the gun screws something up. That’s on you, bud. Not the gun.
For what it’s worth, the same incompetence in maintaining or modifying your beloved Colt can also result in full-auto fire. It’s not any more immune to stupid people than a Glock, and many would argue more so. Same goes for these “AwFuL” Berettas or anything else. If an idiot is tinkering with them, problems may arise.
Your not getting a damn thing from me grandpa, let alone some asinine paper…
You are so correct and to emphasize your point I highlighted above, when it comes to Sig‘s and polishing parts/using aftermarket parts/or geometry changes I would use Bruce Gray and/or Robert Burke aka The Sig Armorer specifically for the P series guns as those guys are true Sig aficionados and know what they are doing. I had a local gunsmith years ago do a trigger job on an X5 P226 and he got carried away polishing parts and caused problems but Robert Burke The Sig Armorer corrected the problems where it shoots great but still safe.
You are full of more shit than a thanksgiving turkey. I asked you a simple question that you should easily be able to provide a news link to since you said you were there and witnessed it first hand.
I can't even make heads or tails out of the other retarded gibberish you wrote.
Tell mommy to pick you up another case of Red Bull when she goes to get your cigarettes.
Paul Blart, we got a report of some kids pissing in the water fountain near the food court you better run go check it out.
I think maybe he oughta invest in some of those reading lessons he mentioned his own self...
Just re-read this mess. OP, I apologize for stirring the pot. I realize now that I should not have stooped low enough to engage ebbiv. It bugs me when others derail threads over stupid/petty crap and here I am, having become the very thing I swore to destroy. 
I’m done and will no longer sully your thread. I hope Beretta gets you taken care of sooner than later!
I’m done and will no longer sully your thread. I hope Beretta gets you taken care of sooner than later!
Wow, are we in the 3rd grade now? Lol. Answer this at least it belongs here. Theres 1 million opinions on what the best optics are what the best caliber is and what someone thinks the best rifle is for long range shooting. In your opinion what’s the best precision rifle out there and whats your personal dream platform, scope and all if money was no issue. What would you buy?
maybe to a blind person lol, if you life depended on my being fat, you'd be a terminal patient. you are out of elementary school yes? you remind me of 3rd grade insults, actually comical, you should get into stand up.
Fuck that motherfucker I hate fucking Democrats that motherfucker cost me a lot of money this past couple years, I’m from Florida not California
I had the same problem but I was able to fix it. I noticed that it was hard to get the extractor out once the pin was removed. I found that the bottom hole for the extractor pin had a rough edge that was sticking up along the front edge of the hole causing extra friction on the extractor. So I took everything out and got a small file and smoothed the hole down so that it was flush. Problem solved.
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