Solus bolt issues

I still can't recreate the issue though
In trying to recreate the issue, are you getting completely in your normal shooting position behind the gun and cycling the bolt with the same snap to the rear and same snap forward that you believe you were using at the range?

I feel you likely are but I want to make sure.

The "event" is happening as the bolt comes into contact with the bolt stop when fully to the rear and as you begin pushing slightly off axis to go forward with the bolt. The bolt has the least about of support and stability at its full rearward movement and would accordingly allow the most lateral wobble to be induced into the back end of the bolt.

Your body position in relation to the gun will absolutely dictate how your hand movements get translated into the pull and push of the bolt.
 
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Your body position in relation to the gun will absolutely dictate how your hand movements get translated into the pull and push of the bolt.
I'll try this next. I just tried real quick on my couch before I had to leave for work this afternoon. I'll try to find something to brace off of when I get off work tonight.
 
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"autofire". I know this all to well. Happened to my 6 arc AR build using their Diamond 2 stage. Started happening after 200rds. Had to adjust the trigger up to over 34oz to make sure autofire wouldn't happen. They told me "sorry, here's the faq on this issue and clean it with lighter fluid". Half of the autofires it would continue until mag emptied. Glad it didn't happen during a match.
Yeah, that's not a TriggerTech issue...This is standard fair for the AR platform...Typically considered common knowledge amongst experienced builders and shooters. This is why most AR triggers are set (non-adjustable) to 3.5 lbs. I love light triggers, but double-fires (bump-firing) from bouncing (recoil) if you keep your finger on the trigger can happen, which is the reason I run mine at around 2.5-3 lbs. to prevent this.
 
Loaded up some dummy rounds today. With a loaded mag the bullets push up on the bolt as expected and then forces the rear of the bolt to touch the folder button when I have the bolt to the rear. Similar to the picture I posted above but I'll go ahead and post again. I still can't recreate the issue though
Is the recoil lug pocket deep enough? Is the action fully seated at the front? You'll need to remove the barreled action and measure to be sure.
 
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Update:
Finally got around to messing with the gun again today. Went to do some mock stages with dummy rounds and my support bag. I then noticed my barrel felt wobly when I picked the rifle up, figured my action might be a little loose. Sure enough my front action screw was definitely loose which caused my bolt to flop around more than it should. Pulled both action screws and added a small amount of blue loctite and torqued them down properly. I'll head to my local range and do live fire mock stages and see if that fixed the issue as the bolt is still rubbing but with far less play this time.
 
I have my solus build with prefit barrel 6 dasher in an MPA BA hybrid chassis and I had this happen in every match I have shot with the rifle…. twice this past weekend at a local match

I cannot recreate the problem. I cannot make it fire once it’s chambered. It de-cocks during the bolt movement and stops prior to chambering a round. It has happened with my TT at its lowest setting and at 3/4 of its highest setting.
I’m at a loss and I love the action…. but it’s moving to a hunting rig. Blah
 
I have my solus build with prefit barrel 6 dasher in an MPA BA hybrid chassis and I had this happen in every match I have shot with the rifle…. twice this past weekend at a local match

I cannot recreate the problem. I cannot make it fire once it’s chambered. It de-cocks during the bolt movement and stops prior to chambering a round. It has happened with my TT at its lowest setting and at 3/4 of its highest setting.
I’m at a loss and I love the action…. but it’s moving to a hunting rig. Blah
Sounds like when you're racking the bolt back to the stop, the impact to stop is causing the cocking piece to bounce and decock back into the valley. To fix this, you prob pull bolt, recock and reinsert to close on a chambered round?
 
I have my solus build with prefit barrel 6 dasher in an MPA BA hybrid chassis and I had this happen in every match I have shot with the rifle…. twice this past weekend at a local match

I cannot recreate the problem. I cannot make it fire once it’s chambered. It de-cocks during the bolt movement and stops prior to chambering a round. It has happened with my TT at its lowest setting and at 3/4 of its highest setting.
I’m at a loss and I love the action…. but it’s moving to a hunting rig. Blah
Is your firing pin greased/oiled? I feel part of my issues were related to the grease I had on my firing pin thinning out when hot and coating the detent notch causing it to slip into the fire position while racking the bolt?
 
Yes I’ve gotten quick at recognizing it, tilting the gun barrel down about 15 degrees, pulling the bolt, recocking it by turning the back clockwise, then reinserting the bolt to finish chambering the partially chambered round.
 
Is your firing pin greased/oiled? I feel part of my issues were related to the grease I had on my firing pin thinning out when hot and coating the detent notch causing it to slip into the fire position while racking the bolt?
Yes my bolt maintenance happens after every trip to the range or match, where barrel cleaning/maintenance is about every 200rds
My problem is that it shouldn’t be that easy… I don’t have to worry about that with any other bolt design
 
Sounds like the detent cut in bolt body that the cocking piece sits in before you close the bolt might not be deep enough to keep things where they are supposed to be while manipulating the bolt. I have about 300 rounds through one my solus actions and have never had this happen on mine, nor dry firing my other solus.

Have you ever had any light strikes? Maybe the fp spring is weak. I know a couple guys in our prs league who run a solus, I've squaded with them a few matches, never saw them deal with the issue. I'd call aero and see what they have to say.
 
TriggerTechs are designed where you can completely remove the weight screw and the spring is internally captured in the housing, so it will never go any lower than with the screw completely removed, and it’s designed to still function perfectly this way (removed). I have the screws removed on most of mine, and never had any issue.
I didn’t know this. The warning (in the instructions) about the screw falling out, always concerned me.