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Solus Chassis
- Thread starter PRSDietitian
- Start date
I just got my chassis in today and took the rifle to the range. I have to say, I love the look and feel. I need to adjust the mag, but not that big off a deal. The only real issue is the cheek comb. Hard to get the bolt out and I think it is going to make rifle hard to clean. Anyone found a solution?
I cut the geek piece so it slides out easily. They are supposedly releasing a folder real soon so that will solve all the issues with the cheek piece for cleaning
This what I have said I would do if I bought a Solus Chassis! Do any parts fall out or get out of place when you pull the assembly out?
No, action screws are captured(unlike mdt, xlr, mpa), there is no ambi bolt cut plug to fall out(like xlr). I had to shorten both the action screws to get the bolt lugs to not bind, or the rear screw to protrude above into the cocking piece race way of the tang, so it's not perfect by any means. It's not a bad chassis for the price you can get them at used for $650, better than msrp bravo, xray, or XRS in my opinion.
Nope everything stays where is should. Just loosen thumb screw and the cheek piece slides right out.
I’ve been waiting on a folder and a weight kit from AP before buying one. Still haven’t heard any rumblings of a weight kit.
How did you get the captured screws out to shorten them. I have the same issue and cannot figure out how to get the screws out to shorten them.
It hasn't necessarily been said, but you only need about 1/8" taken off the front action screw to set it right for a 700 action. It's what I had to do for 2 of mine.
I tried 3 different custom 90° 700 clone actions in the solus, all had the bolt bound up with oem length action screw. Def an oversight on Aeros part.
My Solus chassis came with the shims. I put three of them on the front action screw and the bolt moves freely on my R700 action. No shims on the rear, no problem
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Does the rear screw protrude up into cocking piece raceway? If it is above flush, I suggest shortening the rear screw or using shim/washers.
They didn’t offer this when I got all of my Solus chassis… Good to see them offering it now.
You're good, on mine prior to shortening the screw, it was protruding up enough the cocking piece was catching it on the way through.
Sometime before Jesus makes it back. I’ve messaged aero on Reddit and they say soon. I’ve been telling them to stop taking business advice on Accuracy international on Instagram.
Has anyone used the Salmon River brass forend internal weight and found if it stiffened the forend at all? Perhaps jb weld the two piece chassis/forend connection together? My only real complaint is the lack of rigidity.
