Night Vision SOLVED - Wilcox mount wobble

[Norseman88]

So, for the past 12 years of usage, the inherent Wilcox mount wobble have annoyed the hell out of me. This tutorial is regarding the mount itself, NOT the fit between the mount and shroud.

So I set out to find the solution, and im sharing my results with you to see if it works for others willing to try.

The main issue is the god-aweful tolerances in between the parts of this expensive piece of jewelry.

The solution is to shim the right places.

I took the mount completely apart, cut shims out of a Coke-can, and placed them as seen on the pictures. The one on the «barrel» was the hard one. I found it easiest to tie a thin thread around the shim as you are trying to fit it. All of the shims are press-fit, except for the ones on the dovetail piece, they are glued in place.

For all the other screws, make sure that they are tight and loctited.

As for the result, AMAZING. Its now completely solid in both the stowed and down position.

Good luck, hope it helps

 

[WhereNow&How]

So, for the past 12 years of usage, the inherent Wilcox mount wobble have annoyed the hell out of me. So I set out to find the solution,

I found the better solution to be a Norotos Rhino 2 with Dovetail socket.

But I did keep 1 Wilcox G24 for nostalgic reasons if I had to run with the "cool kids"

 

[Norseman88]

If wobble was the single parameter the mount was measured after, i would agree. But in my experience, nothing is more low profile than Wilcox when stowed. Not even the LoSto is as low stowed

 

[WhereNow&How]

A Norotos Rhino 2 Dovetail lays a set of articulating binos flat on your helmet.

Same with a PVS 14 running a Mod Armory J arm.

Much lower profile than can be achieved with a Wilcox G24.

 

[Norseman88]

I respectfully disagree. Flat, yes, but at a much higher point on your helmet, causing a tighter fit out of vehicles and through low thresholds. Can you show me a picture?

 

[WhereNow&How]

Here are some photos for you to inspect. As you will see, the Rhino 2 Dovetail places articulating Bino's or 14's at a significantly lower point on your helmet when entering or exiting vehicles and through low thresholds.


Wilcox G24 with Bridged 14's on a Mod Armory Light Weight Bridge Mount.

Norotos Rhino 2 Dovetail with Bridged 14's on a Mod Armory Light Weight Bridge Mount.

Wilcox G24 with Bridged 14's on a Mod Armory Light Weight Bridge Mount.

Norotos Rhino 2 Dovetail with Bridged 14's on a Mod Armory Light Weight Bridge Mount.

Wilcox G24 and Norotos Rhino 2 Dovetail

Yep, I keep that overpriced and flimsy - wobbly Wilcox G24 mount for occasions just like this, albeit it is regulated to my dustbin and rarely comes out.

Rhino 2 Dovetail for the win.

 

[Norseman88]

I know when i’m beat, thanks for taking the time to take the pictures man

 

[WhereNow&How]

The internet "cool kids" all regurgitate that the Wilcox G24 is the "Gold Standard" in NV mounts.

They do not know what they do not know.

The G24 is far from the best mount for a lot more reasons that are not even shown or realized in these photos.

 

[Killswitch Engage]

im a rhino 2 ftw guy. much lower stow and zero rattle and loose shit and i prefer force to overcome mounts by far.

edit... is that a flush cup socket you installed in the center of the rhino?

 

[WhereNow&How]

edit... is that a flush cup socket you installed in the center of the rhino?

Magpul QD socket for when I ran a Wilcox J Arm for the magnetic pushbutton to sit in that turns a PVS 14 off.

I have since ditched the Wilcox J Arms and now use Mod Armory J Arms or Light Weight Bridge.

 

[WhereNow&How]

Cadex mounts for the win

Never tried them.

But I am extremely happy with my current setups as they are strong and have no shortcomings for my use so I am like the guy with the broken in slippers now.