Spend my $ for me

[Zero520]

Hi everyone,

Popping my SH forum cherry here. I've been a good husband and my bday is coming up, so the wife has given her blessing on a new toy

I've got gas guns and roller locks, but this my first PR. Here are my specs so far:

Caliber: 300 WM
Barrel: Proof Research Carbon Fiber 24" (purchased)
Action: Big Horn TL3 (purchased)
Trigger: Geissele Super 700 (purchased)

What I need for you experts to do is tell me what chassis I should be dropping this in and more importantly what glass I should put on top of it.

Parameters:

Budget: Would like to stay as close to $5,000 as possible for the whole ting. Between the barrel, action, and trigger I've got $2,300 in it, so you've got $2,700 to play with

Priorities:

1) Functionality - Looking cool is important, but looking cool with something that isn't functional is stupid. This gun will spend the majority of its life at the range. That said, I would like the ability to throw it over my shoulder when I go out on my land up in Virginia. I'm not a hunter. I want something that absorbs the recoil well enough but not as heavy as a ball and chain. I've already got that, it's called a wife.

1a) Quality

1b) Reputable, friendly customer service manufacturer

2) Looking cool. Yes, i'm that shallow. I know the Magpul Hunter Stock fits every bit of my needs, but it doesn't give me that tingly feeling between my legs. Half the reason I buy guns is bc they look cool AF hanging on my wall. Call me what you want, I'm honest.

I'll post pictures to this thread once the build is complete. Thanks everybody and happy shopping.

 

[b6graham]

any reason for 300WM over 300PRC?

stock? cheap KRG Bravo. expensive Manners PRS1/2
chassis, MPA, MDT, JAE.

you really should go to a match and play with stuff. it'll be short action versions but that doesnt matter much

scope, Vortex Gen 2 Razor, AMG. Athlon Cronus BTR fit the budget well, but weights vary
new NX8 scope would fit bill as well and are lighter but you'll be waiting a bit
rings either ARC or Seekin would fit the bill since you likely dont need the extras of a spuhr, and they cost less

 

[spife7980]

Well youre going to want a brake on that win mag, that will be 150-225 depending on the PVA, Area 419, Insight heathen choice

Youre going to need rings, that will be 100-200. I like the ARC M10s for 180.

So thats 2700 minus (250 up to 425 for brake and rings) for a remaining budget of 2275-2450 for the rest.



I would get an athlon cronus btr for 1500 (call cameralandny) and an XLR envy for 760 to eat up the rest of your budget

 

[A.Bennett]

If your stuck in chassis, the mpa is tough to beat for the price. I dig em and I'm a stock guy. The scope is tough. I'm a vortex fanboy and now that the new ones are out, you can Pick up used ones CHEAP. Any reason why you went geisslie over trigger tech or Timney? Just curious.

 

[Zero520]

b6graham,

No reason other than that's what the MK13 is chambered in.

 

[Zero520]

Well youre going to want a brake on that win mag, that will be 150-225 depending on the PVA, Area 419, Insight heathen choice

Youre going to need rings, that will be 100-200. I like the ARC M10s for 180.

So thats 2700 minus (250 up to 425 for brake and rings) for a remaining budget of 2275-2450 for the rest.



I would get an athlon cronus btr for 1500 (call cameralandny) and an XLR envy for 760 to eat up the rest of your budget

Good points - I should've mentioned I've got a SiCo muzzle brake laying around I plan on using

 

[Zero520]

If your stuck in chassis, the mpa is tough to beat for the price. I dig em and I'm a stock guy. The scope is tough. I'm a vortex fanboy and now that the new ones are out, you can Pick up used ones CHEAP. Any reason why you went geisslie over trigger tech or Timney? Just curious.

Not particularly. I have Geissele triggers on my AR15s and a couple of their handguards. I really enjoy them. Their CS has always been good to me as well.

 

[Hollywood 6mm]

A 300WM with a Proof CF barrel isn't going to be fun to learn the PR game on thanks to the recoil. I'd suggest getting a better brake than the SiCo - I'm partial to the 419 Sidewinder.

Chassis - look at PDC Custom. Don't see them mentioned as much, but I have run quite a few of them over the years, and I have been very happy with them. The new Gen5 models are on the PDC Custom Facebook page, but they're not on the website yet.

Optic - I'm a big Bushnell fanboy. The XRS2 and DMR2 Pro are both amazing optics for the money. Great glass quality, extremely reliable tracking, and highly durable.

 

[A.Bennett]

Not particularly. I have Geissele triggers on my AR15s and a couple of their handguards. I really enjoy them. Their CS has always been good to me as well.

Fair enough. If you haven't gotten behind a trigger tech diamond, You should. They are fantastic.

 

[PinesAndProjectiles]

Spend the money on a decent scope. There's Gen II 4.5-27 Razors in the PX going for around $1600, possibly less. I just picked one up for $1450 shipped. If you can't see your target, you can't hit your target.


Find a brake, and rings, spend the rest on the chassis/stock.

I would definitely buy the remainder of your rifle on the PX. There is a lot of good deals to be had, just be patient.

 

[bourbonbent]

I’ve got a TL3 with a Geissele Super 700, love them both.

I stuck it in an Accuracy International AX AICS chassis. It was not a straight drop in, but wasn’t much altering needed. I’m a big fan of the AX AICS chassis. The right side folding stock is awesome to have, and I think the adjustability makes it worth the cash. You also mentioned MK13, the latest iteration is rocking an AI chassis.

For the brake, and I would always recommend a brake, I have an APA Fat Bastard Gen 2 on my 338NM, and a Little Bastard Gen 2 on my 308. I’d probably stick the Fat Bastard on yours. The more efficient the brake is, the easier it’s going to be on you. I have medical stuff that makes a brake more of a necessity than a luxury, I shot without them for years and 300WM isn’t too much to shoot without a brake, you’re just going to feel it and it can cause issues with anticipating recoil, which causes issues with trigger control and all that. Plus, with a real good brake, a kid can shoot a 300WM and do it without pain.

For scope, I’d cruise the exchange here and look for a good deal, or if you’re MIL/LE etc I’d look into some of the discount programs through manufacturers.

To the point: you’ve got premium components going on for a premium build, I wouldn’t throttle off now. Get the rifle built and make it the best you can, put a placeholder scope that does the job on it, and put some alpha grade glass on it when the budget allows.

Obviously, that’s all just my opinion, and there are plenty of options and opinions. Best of luck to you, and welcome to the world of precision bolt guns, it’s a whole lot of fun and the gear is hugely enjoyable to research and use.

Here is a photo of mine, it’s a Bartlein barrel though not a Proof, but the TL3 in the AX AICS chassis is the point of the pic.

 

[Zero520]

A 300WM with a Proof CF barrel isn't going to be fun to learn the PR game on thanks to the recoil. I'd suggest getting a better brake than the SiCo - I'm partial to the 419 Sidewinder.

Chassis - look at PDC Custom. Don't see them mentioned as much, but I have run quite a few of them over the years, and I have been very happy with them. The new Gen5 models are on the PDC Custom Facebook page, but they're not on the website yet.

Optic - I'm a big Bushnell fanboy. The XRS2 and DMR2 Pro are both amazing optics for the money. Great glass quality, extremely reliable tracking, and highly durable.

Ok. I’ll look at that. Thank you.

 

[Zero520]

Spend the money on a decent scope. There's Gen II 4.5-27 Razors in the PX going for around $1600, possibly less. I just picked one up for $1450 shipped. If you can't see your target, you can't hit your target.


Find a brake, and rings, spend the rest on the chassis/stock.

I would definitely buy the remainder of your rifle on the PX. There is a lot of good deals to be had, just be patient.

Ok. I own a few leupolds, eotechs and Bushnells. Have always wanted a Vortex and now seems like the right time to get one.

 

[Zero520]

I’ve got a TL3 with a Geissele Super 700, love them both.

I stuck it in an Accuracy International AX AICS chassis. It was not a straight drop in, but wasn’t much altering needed. I’m a big fan of the AX AICS chassis. The right side folding stock is awesome to have, and I think the adjustability makes it worth the cash. You also mentioned MK13, the latest iteration is rocking an AI chassis.

For the brake, and I would always recommend a brake, I have an APA Fat Bastard Gen 2 on my 338NM, and a Little Bastard Gen 2 on my 308. I’d probably stick the Fat Bastard on yours. The more efficient the brake is, the easier it’s going to be on you. I have medical stuff that makes a brake more of a necessity than a luxury, I shot without them for years and 300WM isn’t too much to shoot without a brake, you’re just going to feel it and it can cause issues with anticipating recoil, which causes issues with trigger control and all that. Plus, with a real good brake, a kid can shoot a 300WM and do it without pain.

For scope, I’d cruise the exchange here and look for a good deal, or if you’re MIL/LE etc I’d look into some of the discount programs through manufacturers.

To the point: you’ve got premium components going on for a premium build, I wouldn’t throttle off now. Get the rifle built and make it the best you can, put a placeholder scope that does the job on it, and put some alpha grade glass on it when the budget allows.

Obviously, that’s all just my opinion, and there are plenty of options and opinions. Best of luck to you, and welcome to the world of precision bolt guns, it’s a whole lot of fun and the gear is hugely enjoyable to research and use.

Here is a photo of mine, it’s a Bartlein barrel though not a Proof, but the TL3 in the AX AICS chassis is the point of the pic.

View attachment 7070977

I’ve got a TL3 with a Geissele Super 700, love them both.

I stuck it in an Accuracy International AX AICS chassis. It was not a straight drop in, but wasn’t much altering needed. I’m a big fan of the AX AICS chassis. The right side folding stock is awesome to have, and I think the adjustability makes it worth the cash. You also mentioned MK13, the latest iteration is rocking an AI chassis.

For the brake, and I would always recommend a brake, I have an APA Fat Bastard Gen 2 on my 338NM, and a Little Bastard Gen 2 on my 308. I’d probably stick the Fat Bastard on yours. The more efficient the brake is, the easier it’s going to be on you. I have medical stuff that makes a brake more of a necessity than a luxury, I shot without them for years and 300WM isn’t too much to shoot without a brake, you’re just going to feel it and it can cause issues with anticipating recoil, which causes issues with trigger control and all that. Plus, with a real good brake, a kid can shoot a 300WM and do it without pain.

For scope, I’d cruise the exchange here and look for a good deal, or if you’re MIL/LE etc I’d look into some of the discount programs through manufacturers.

To the point: you’ve got premium components going on for a premium build, I wouldn’t throttle off now. Get the rifle built and make it the best you can, put a placeholder scope that does the job on it, and put some alpha grade glass on it when the budget allows.

Obviously, that’s all just my opinion, and there are plenty of options and opinions. Best of luck to you, and welcome to the world of precision bolt guns, it’s a whole lot of fun and the gear is hugely enjoyable to research and use.

Here is a photo of mine, it’s a Bartlein barrel though not a Proof, but the TL3 in the AX AICS chassis is the point of the pic.

View attachment 7070977

Man that is a good looking rifle! I’m very glad to hear that you are impressed with the tl3 and super 700. I was hoping my SiCo brake could fit the bill in case I ever wanted to run my Saker 7.62 suppressor on it. Sounds like a more quality brake will improve my quality of life, though.

Want to hear a very lame reason I haven’t bought the AICS yet? Keymod. I know, you don’t even have to say it. That’s ridiculous.

I do have a question about the system - are you able to add/remove different stocks to it?

 

[Huskydriver]

b6graham,

No reason other than that's what the MK13 is chambered in.

SMH....

 

[mlpkhl]

FYI, AI chassis are not Keymod, They are KeySlot, it is proprietary to AI.

 

[brianf]

someone is making a keymod front end for the AX now.

i became a chassis fan years ago, and no matter which ones i try and buy the AI/AX is still my favorite

i bought one in the "Sell" for my 22lr a few months ago

 

[Zero520]

FYI, AI chassis are not Keymod, They are KeySlot, it is proprietary to AI.

Oh, didn’t realize that! Does that mean you have to buy the rail sections from AI?

 

[mlpkhl]

They come with 2 sections of additional picatinny and a dog bone section utilized for sling swivels. That is when I have bought my AXMC rifle, AX AICS chassis, and AT chassis.

 

[JakeM]

Carbon fiber Manners PRS1 in midnight camo.

 

[bourbonbent]

Man that is a good looking rifle! I’m very glad to hear that you are impressed with the tl3 and super 700. I was hoping my SiCo brake could fit the bill in case I ever wanted to run my Saker 7.62 suppressor on it. Sounds like a more quality brake will improve my quality of life, though.

Want to hear a very lame reason I haven’t bought the AICS yet? Keymod. I know, you don’t even have to say it. That’s ridiculous.

I do have a question about the system - are you able to add/remove different stocks to it?

Someone else mentioned it, it ain’t KeyMod, the key slot system is WAY sturdier. It came with rail sections, 3 of them and a Harris bipod mounting section with a stud on it.

KeyMod is just the slot, the key slot system on the AI is similar only in profile, it is tapered and recessed, once the tapered bolt head is in the recess there’s no way it’s coming out.

If you’ve already got a can, then I’d ignore me and run the SiCo stuff on it. Only reason I’m not running a can on mine is because my Saker is a 5.56, and I haven’t gotten around to getting a .30 or .338 can yet.

I don’t think you can add different stocks, not without debonding the one that’s on there, and even then your options would be limited. The stock that’s on it is so good I wouldn’t dream of removing it. Everything finger adjusts in seconds and stays put, it’s comfortable, and really, really well made.

 

[bourbonbent]

They come with 2 sections of additional picatinny and a dog bone section utilized for sling swivels. That is when I have bought my AXMC rifle, AX AICS chassis, and AT chassis.

Mine actually came with 3, a long section, two shorter sections, and the swivel stud section. I bought mine from Mile High back in March.

 

[DownhillFromHere]

As @spife7980 noted above, you're going to need - not want, NEED - good rings and a good brake if you go .300 WM. Don't try to save $$ on these. There are lots of threads here about both. Read up and decide.

If there is no specific reason or requirement for choosing that caliber for your first precision platform, perhaps you'll consider a smaller caliber. A few weeks ago, I was shooting with a nationally-ranked PRS competitor who was breaking in a .300WM he had built for ELR competition out west. After every round he fired, he'd come off the gun and say some variation of "D***!!" When he stood up at the start of a cooling period (after 5 rounds), he saw a little piece of white something on the concrete and said something like, "I think that's one of my teeth. I forgot how hard these things kick!" And he had a top-rung brake on that truck-axle barrel, which he noted got really hot really fast - not that he was surprised, as he noted 70-80 grains of powder per round made a lot more heat then the 40ish grains in the 6-6.5mm rounds. This was with a 20+-pound rifle. You said you wanted to carry yours around. Take off ten pounds, and no thanks, I wouldn't want to shoot the thing more than the one round to take out a sasquatch or small truck.

Several good comments already made about glass. I like Vortex Razors. If you get sick of shooting, you can use it to break rocks or club baby seals.

Have fun building the new toy!

 

[Sheldon N]

My 0.02....

You've got an expensive, carbon fiber barrel. You paid a premium for that light weight option. You don't want to go bury that in a 5-6lb chassis to add weight so you can mitigate recoil. It wouldn't look "cool" to a gun guy who knows, because they would see that there wasn't a clear plan for the build. Plus you'd hide the carbon fiber with a long fore end guard.

Agree with the comments to go 300 PRC instead of 300 win mag (if it's not too late). Better caliber, easier to reload (if you reload), will have great Hornady ammo, and it has military credibility too since it's the new caliber being handed out to spec ops snipers. If you've already chambered it in 300WM then no worries, that will shoot too.

With what you have now and your intended use, I'd put the gun in a nice Manners stock, possibly something with an adjustable cheek riser for a bit of flexibility and added weight, bonus points for carbon fiber stock to match your carbon fiber barrel. My own money would be in something like an EH1-A, T2-A or T6-A manners with Elite CF shell and midnight paint finish. Mini-chassis or a bedded stock with bottom metal are both options.

Gen II razor is a good value at your budget. The weight will help recoil, but not detract too much from the ethos of the build.

I'd run your suppressor. It will recoil, yes. But it will also be more pleasant to shoot than a 4 port brake on a 24" barrel.

 

[Zero520]

My 0.02....

You've got an expensive, carbon fiber barrel. You paid a premium for that light weight option. You don't want to go bury that in a 5-6lb chassis to add weight so you can mitigate recoil. It wouldn't look "cool" to a gun guy who knows, because they would see that there wasn't a clear plan for the build. Plus you'd hide the carbon fiber with a long fore end guard.

Agree with the comments to go 300 PRC instead of 300 win mag (if it's not too late). Better caliber, easier to reload (if you reload), will have great Hornady ammo, and it has military credibility too since it's the new caliber being handed out to spec ops snipers. If you've already chambered it in 300WM then no worries, that will shoot too.

With what you have now and your intended use, I'd put the gun in a nice Manners stock, possibly something with an adjustable cheek riser for a bit of flexibility and added weight, bonus points for carbon fiber stock to match your carbon fiber barrel. My own money would be in something like an EH1-A, T2-A or T6-A manners with Elite CF shell and midnight paint finish. Mini-chassis or a bedded stock with bottom metal are both options.

Gen II razor is a good value at your budget. The weight will help recoil, but not detract too much from the ethos of the build.

I'd run your suppressor. It will recoil, yes. But it will also be more pleasant to shoot than a 4 port brake on a 24" barrel.

Sheldon thanks for the comment. The barrel hasn't been chambered yet, so 300 WM isn't set in stone. I guess my hesitation with the 300 PRC is how new it is and it's limited availability. Obviously being adopted by the DoD ensures that it won't be going away any time soon. I just read a few articles on the 300 PRC and it makes sense to me that it would be more accurate. Then again, the 300 WM will probably stretch my capabilities as a shooter as is, at least for a while.

I also appreciate your point about dropping the Proof CF Barrel in a chassis. Not only is it anti-weight-saving, it does cover up the cool"ness" of the carbon fiber. Now you've got me wondering if I should stash the Proof barrel away for a later build, if I really have my heart set on a chassis with a fore end. My wife thanks you in advance for finding more ways for me to blow money

 

[Hollywood 6mm]

Sheldon thanks for the comment. The barrel hasn't been chambered yet, so 300 WM isn't set in stone. I guess my hesitation with the 300 PRC is how new it is and it's limited availability. Obviously being adopted by the DoD ensures that it won't be going away any time soon. I just read a few articles on the 300 PRC and it makes sense to me that it would be more accurate. Then again, the 300 WM will probably stretch my capabilities as a shooter as is, at least for a while.

I also appreciate your point about dropping the Proof CF Barrel in a chassis. Not only is it anti-weight-saving, it does cover up the cool"ness" of the carbon fiber. Now you've got me wondering if I should stash the Proof barrel away for a later build, if I really have my heart set on a chassis with a fore end. My wife thanks you in advance for finding more ways for me to blow money

Since this seems to be your first precision rifle build, I would say stashing the CF barrel for a later project and going with a traditional steel barrel would be a very solid idea.

 

[Bandit31]

I agree with everyone else about shelving the Proof barrel for now. I'm a huge fan but unless there is a specific reason behind going with the CF barrel, you'd be better suited with a heavier steel barrel especially because this is your first precision rifle and a magnum. You can however have a light rifle with a Proof CF barrel stuffed into a chassis though, just fyi. It isn't completely counter intuitive as some may portray or their wouldn't be a demand for it.

As for barrel options, since you are running a TL3, Xcaliber has pre fits available for 25%off if you wanted a couple barrels for it spec'd to your liking and not break the bank. Being that it's a cost efficient option...maybe consider another option in a long action/ non magnum in addition to the 300prc or 300wm...

There are chassis that can use spacers for the different mag lengths from the 300prc and standard LA options that use the .473" face so just keep that in mind if you do consider that route.

 

[Zero520]

I agree with everyone else about shelving the Proof barrel for now. I'm a huge fan but unless there is a specific reason behind going with the CF barrel, you'd be better suited with a heavier steel barrel especially because this is your first precision rifle and a magnum. You can however have a light rifle with a Proof CF barrel stuffed into a chassis though, just fyi. It isn't completely counter intuitive as some may portray or their wouldn't be a demand for it.

As for barrel options, since you are running a TL3, Xcaliber has pre fits available for 25%off if you wanted a couple barrels for it spec'd to your liking and not break the bank. Being that it's a cost efficient option...maybe consider another option in a long action/ non magnum in addition to the 300prc or 300wm...

There are chassis that can use spacers for the different mag lengths from the 300prc and standard LA options that use the .473" face so just keep that in mind if you do consider that route.

Like this?

 

[Bandit31]

Like this?

http://www.x-caliber.net/remages

The savage small shank pre- fit would be what you seek for the TL3. If it doesn't show the discount, the coupon code is 25% off. I just ordered 3 for my Bighorn Origin and have been considering placing another order for a 300wm and something else for a TL3 long action too.

 

[b6graham]

also 5/8 x 24 muzzle

and mayyybe a little bigger on the contour

honestly for that price i'd just call keystone and get a prefit barrel

 

[Zero520]

Action arrived today....

 

[AMGtuned]

What are we considering "heavy" for a 300wm or similar? I love mine, just dropped it in a McM A5. In the Bell and Carlson it used to be in, it was 12.5lb with a gen 1 PST and 26" tube with brake. In the A5, 26" tube, brake, MK4 20moa base, CDI bm, and Harris 6-9 sbrm, the rifle is 12.1. I dont consider that heavy at all. Barrel profile is 1.25" straight.

 

[Zero520]

AMGtuned,

My specs have changed slightly from above. Items and weights listed below:

Bighorn TL3 + Geissle Super 700 trigger: 2.48 lbs
PROOF Research 26" Carbon Fiber Barrel: 3.3 lbs
J Allen Enterprise J700 Chassis: 6 lbs
Nightforce ATACR 7-35x56: 2.46 lbs
Geissele Super Precision Scope Mount: 7.4 oz
Atlas BT10 V8 Bipod: 11 oz

Total weight: 15 lb 3.9 oz

I consider heavy rigs to run 16 lbs and up.