First step in changing up my SPS Tactical. I ditched the stock and started the metal and action work today.
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Gunsmithing SPS TAC transformation
- Thread starter usmc7980
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Re: Did my bolt knob
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: M.45</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ohh I want one of those for my left hand Remy 700... where did you get it? </div></div>
It's a tac ops kit, Myself and Monteboy84 use the same one. Either of us will do it for you if you want. You can buy the kit on Snipercentral or brownells I think sells them
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: M.45</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ohh I want one of those for my left hand Remy 700... where did you get it? </div></div>
It's a tac ops kit, Myself and Monteboy84 use the same one. Either of us will do it for you if you want. You can buy the kit on Snipercentral or brownells I think sells them
Re: Did my bolt knob
Thanks Roscoe, that means alot coming coming from a professional smith to a lowly DIY'er
Thanks Roscoe, that means alot coming coming from a professional smith to a lowly DIY'er
Re: Did my bolt knob
By the way I'll be coating this rifle in Gun Kote, how does it hold up and can I paint the bolt and inside the action? I've read other threads but would like 1st hand opinions and well that what you use, so who better to ask?
By the way I'll be coating this rifle in Gun Kote, how does it hold up and can I paint the bolt and inside the action? I've read other threads but would like 1st hand opinions and well that what you use, so who better to ask?
Re: Did my bolt knob
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMC7980</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks Roscoe, that means alot coming coming from a professional smith to a lowly DIY'er </div></div>
Dont sell your self short, quality is quality, no matter who does it. I have no doubt, if you built rifles, they'd be first class.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMC7980</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks Roscoe, that means alot coming coming from a professional smith to a lowly DIY'er </div></div>
Dont sell your self short, quality is quality, no matter who does it. I have no doubt, if you built rifles, they'd be first class.
Re: Did my bolt knob
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMC7980</div><div class="ubbcode-body">By the way I'll be coating this rifle in Gun Kote, how does it hold up and can I paint the bolt and inside the action? I've read other threads but would lie 1st hand opinions and well that what you use, so who better to ask? </div></div>
I blast everything with 120 grit AO at 40psi except the machined surfaces. Use a stopper of sorts (stuffed paper) to protect the chamber from the media. Use a foam ear protector stuck in the muzzle as well when blasting. Remove the foam ear piece prior to heating and degreasing, KG will not stick to slick unblasted surfaces.
Wear latex gloves and degrease thoroughly with brake parts cleaner and finally with MEK prior to painting. Prep is the huge key to a good job. Heat the parts to 200 degrees and check for oil / grease leaching around the recoil lug and scope base holes. Degrease as many times as it takes to get it completely dry and clean.
Spray with an HVLP gun or Air Brush. FYI, the airbrush will give more of a dry flat look while the HVLP will give a very slight sheen to the finish. I prefer the HVLP gun. Spray at 20psi on the gun.
KG has been very tough and durable. It’s holding up quite well on all the rifles I’ve painted. It’s all I use.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMC7980</div><div class="ubbcode-body">By the way I'll be coating this rifle in Gun Kote, how does it hold up and can I paint the bolt and inside the action? I've read other threads but would lie 1st hand opinions and well that what you use, so who better to ask? </div></div>
I blast everything with 120 grit AO at 40psi except the machined surfaces. Use a stopper of sorts (stuffed paper) to protect the chamber from the media. Use a foam ear protector stuck in the muzzle as well when blasting. Remove the foam ear piece prior to heating and degreasing, KG will not stick to slick unblasted surfaces.
Wear latex gloves and degrease thoroughly with brake parts cleaner and finally with MEK prior to painting. Prep is the huge key to a good job. Heat the parts to 200 degrees and check for oil / grease leaching around the recoil lug and scope base holes. Degrease as many times as it takes to get it completely dry and clean.
Spray with an HVLP gun or Air Brush. FYI, the airbrush will give more of a dry flat look while the HVLP will give a very slight sheen to the finish. I prefer the HVLP gun. Spray at 20psi on the gun.
KG has been very tough and durable. It’s holding up quite well on all the rifles I’ve painted. It’s all I use.
Re: Did my bolt knob
That looks great! And +1 to it being quality work, I'm just a DIY'er as well so don't cut yourself down.
-matt
That looks great! And +1 to it being quality work, I'm just a DIY'er as well so don't cut yourself down.
-matt
Re: Did my bolt knob
Monteboy,
I think it's safe to say (In my best Louisiana, Southern Voice) "Ya'll got dem knobs down son"
Monteboy,
I think it's safe to say (In my best Louisiana, Southern Voice) "Ya'll got dem knobs down son"
Re: Did my bolt knob
I've only used a Compressor. You can get a small Airbrush Compressor in a kit complete with gun, case, hose, paint jars etc. for around $350.00. I believe KG Industries use the Badger 350 Air Brush Gun.
I've only used a Compressor. You can get a small Airbrush Compressor in a kit complete with gun, case, hose, paint jars etc. for around $350.00. I believe KG Industries use the Badger 350 Air Brush Gun.
Re: Did my bolt knob
I have a spray booth at my shop for painting aluminum after we've fabbed it. I'll just use that
I have a spray booth at my shop for painting aluminum after we've fabbed it. I'll just use that
Re: Did my bolt knob
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: flyboy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Any idea what tread pitch and size that is? Thanks</div></div> It is 5/16-18.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jrbet83</div><div class="ubbcode-body">what action work have you started with
</div></div>
to start with I sold the stock, the bottom metal has been sold. I'm going to pull the barrel, true the action, square the face of the bolt, lap the bolt lugs, square the recoil lug, chase the the receiver threads, set the barrel back and cut a nice tight chamber this week at work. This is my first time out and I know what I am going to do but am not sure I got the terminology right.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: flyboy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Any idea what tread pitch and size that is? Thanks</div></div> It is 5/16-18.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jrbet83</div><div class="ubbcode-body">what action work have you started with
</div></div>
to start with I sold the stock, the bottom metal has been sold. I'm going to pull the barrel, true the action, square the face of the bolt, lap the bolt lugs, square the recoil lug, chase the the receiver threads, set the barrel back and cut a nice tight chamber this week at work. This is my first time out and I know what I am going to do but am not sure I got the terminology right.
Re: Did my bolt knob
glad you chimed in, I was thniking of having you make some different knobs with that thread pitch
glad you chimed in, I was thniking of having you make some different knobs with that thread pitch
Re: Did my bolt knob
The prep job you did threading the bolt handle is beautiful! did you use a Lathe or Mill? And did you make the knob too? Looks like a Badger
Really, great job man
I used 5/16x18tpi when I was installing them like that. Then I switched over to the 10-32 stud method. I'm still tooled to do so
The prep job you did threading the bolt handle is beautiful! did you use a Lathe or Mill? And did you make the knob too? Looks like a Badger
Really, great job man
I used 5/16x18tpi when I was installing them like that. Then I switched over to the 10-32 stud method. I'm still tooled to do so
Re: Did my bolt knob
It is the kit from Tac Ops. It is easier than setting up to mill the knob down. I just cut the knob off with a bandsaw, drill a hole in the handle and tig weld the stud in. Then blend grind it down to the smooth transition
It is the kit from Tac Ops. It is easier than setting up to mill the knob down. I just cut the knob off with a bandsaw, drill a hole in the handle and tig weld the stud in. Then blend grind it down to the smooth transition
Re: Did my bolt knob
Perverts, I said grind instead of polish because I knew someone would go nasty
Perverts, I said grind instead of polish because I knew someone would go nasty
Re: Did my bolt knob
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: marduk185</div><div class="ubbcode-body">polished my knob today. </div></div>
My chicks do that for me.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: marduk185</div><div class="ubbcode-body">polished my knob today. </div></div>
My chicks do that for me.
Re: Did my bolt knob
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: marduk185</div><div class="ubbcode-body">polished my knob today. </div></div>
My chicks do that for me. </div></div>
Coming from Louisiana I hope your not talking about baby feathered creatures
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: marduk185</div><div class="ubbcode-body">polished my knob today. </div></div>
My chicks do that for me. </div></div>
Coming from Louisiana I hope your not talking about baby feathered creatures
Re: Did my bolt knob
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LoneWolfUSMC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">that's a regular thing for me....I am married. </div></div>
LOL, classic! And very true!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LoneWolfUSMC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">that's a regular thing for me....I am married. </div></div>
LOL, classic! And very true!
Re: Did my bolt knob
Wow I couldn't tell you did it that way. It looks like one solid piece.
Your pretty good at tig welding obviously then right? Would you ever do it for someone? Like tig weld a bolt handle.
Wow I couldn't tell you did it that way. It looks like one solid piece.
Your pretty good at tig welding obviously then right? Would you ever do it for someone? Like tig weld a bolt handle.
Re: Did my bolt knob
I don't know about welding the handle to the body, the only real experience I have is from welding aluminum at work in straight lines and doing these knobs. I'd be afraid to guinea pig on somebody's handle without doing a couple first or at least getting instruction how to from Dans40x
I don't know about welding the handle to the body, the only real experience I have is from welding aluminum at work in straight lines and doing these knobs. I'd be afraid to guinea pig on somebody's handle without doing a couple first or at least getting instruction how to from Dans40x
Re: Did my bolt knob
oh, and it is not so much the weld on the stud to handle but the grind that makes it pretty
oh, and it is not so much the weld on the stud to handle but the grind that makes it pretty
Re: Did my bolt knob
Ya I realize that, about grinding. But all I have is a mig welder, and I think a tig must be used for 4140 or stainless. Maybe a mig can be used but it wouldn't be as good.
Ya I realize that, about grinding. But all I have is a mig welder, and I think a tig must be used for 4140 or stainless. Maybe a mig can be used but it wouldn't be as good.
Re: Did my bolt knob
I only know how to tig, thats all we use at work so I'm not so sure about the other types of welding
I only know how to tig, thats all we use at work so I'm not so sure about the other types of welding
Re: Did my bolt knob
I think you can mig weld stainless no problem but 4140 I think you have to pre heat
I think you can mig weld stainless no problem but 4140 I think you have to pre heat
Re: Did my bolt knob
I'm done with the action work, I think...... Brownell's shipped my Gun Kote today so hopefully it will get here next week and I can lay down some color next weekend. I also got my scope, base and rings and all that fit perfectly, Badger base, Seekins rings and a Zeiss 3-12x56. I ordered PT&G tactical bottom metal today but I'm still debating on a stock. Its down to Manners T2 or T4, McMillan A2, A3, A5 or a B&C light tactical.
I'm done with the action work, I think...... Brownell's shipped my Gun Kote today so hopefully it will get here next week and I can lay down some color next weekend. I also got my scope, base and rings and all that fit perfectly, Badger base, Seekins rings and a Zeiss 3-12x56. I ordered PT&G tactical bottom metal today but I'm still debating on a stock. Its down to Manners T2 or T4, McMillan A2, A3, A5 or a B&C light tactical.
Re: Did my bolt knob
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I blast everything with 120 grit AO at 40psi except the machined surfaces. Use a stopper of sorts (stuffed paper) to protect the chamber from the media. Use a foam ear protector stuck in the muzzle as well when blasting. Remove the foam ear piece prior to heating and degreasing, KG will not stick to slick unblasted surfaces.
</div></div>
I can only find 70 grit local, do I have to use the 120 grit or will the 70 leave too much texture and does it have to be aluminum oxide or can I glass blast it with 120? I still need to call you by the way about tigging. Work got crazy this week
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I blast everything with 120 grit AO at 40psi except the machined surfaces. Use a stopper of sorts (stuffed paper) to protect the chamber from the media. Use a foam ear protector stuck in the muzzle as well when blasting. Remove the foam ear piece prior to heating and degreasing, KG will not stick to slick unblasted surfaces.
</div></div>
I can only find 70 grit local, do I have to use the 120 grit or will the 70 leave too much texture and does it have to be aluminum oxide or can I glass blast it with 120? I still need to call you by the way about tigging. Work got crazy this week
Re: Did my bolt knob
My problem is I only need to blast the bolt handle. Everything else is already roughed up. I'm going to take it the powder coater I use for work and see if he can hit it real quick. I hate to buy that much media just to use it once and our cabinet at work is filled glass bead already. I don't build rifles enough to justify buying every piece of equipment a shop would have. I only want the lathe and drill press for the home shop, basically just to have my own. Everything else I can do at work or take to a shop that does work for us
My problem is I only need to blast the bolt handle. Everything else is already roughed up. I'm going to take it the powder coater I use for work and see if he can hit it real quick. I hate to buy that much media just to use it once and our cabinet at work is filled glass bead already. I don't build rifles enough to justify buying every piece of equipment a shop would have. I only want the lathe and drill press for the home shop, basically just to have my own. Everything else I can do at work or take to a shop that does work for us
Re: Did my bolt knob
Sorry for the delay man. I'd use the 120 grit at 40psi. The 70 grit may be too much. If all else fails, send it to me and I'll blast it for you for free.
Sorry for the delay man. I'd use the 120 grit at 40psi. The 70 grit may be too much. If all else fails, send it to me and I'll blast it for you for free.
Re: Did my bolt knob
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sorry for the delay man. I'd use the 120 grit at 40psi. The 70 grit may be too much. If all else fails, send it to me and I'll blast it for you for free. </div></div>
Thats really cool of you, I'm going to check my guys monday and if that is a no-go I'll send it your way
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sorry for the delay man. I'd use the 120 grit at 40psi. The 70 grit may be too much. If all else fails, send it to me and I'll blast it for you for free. </div></div>
Thats really cool of you, I'm going to check my guys monday and if that is a no-go I'll send it your way
Re: Did my bolt knob
Got my bolt handle blasted and coated my rings and bolt. I used the aerosol kit and baked for 70 mins at 320 in the oven. It turned out great but I need to do the barreled action still. Pics when I get home
Got my bolt handle blasted and coated my rings and bolt. I used the aerosol kit and baked for 70 mins at 320 in the oven. It turned out great but I need to do the barreled action still. Pics when I get home
Re: Did my bolt knob
All said and done on the small parts I like the Gun-Kote. It is super thin and I beat the bolt on the kitchen counter and there is no marring in the finish
All said and done on the small parts I like the Gun-Kote. It is super thin and I beat the bolt on the kitchen counter and there is no marring in the finish
Re: Did my bolt knob
I like the way the metal turned out but I'm wondering if you can paint a stock with this. I don't know how baking a stock at 320 for an hour would turn out. Are you guys using air cure or bake on for stocks?
I like the way the metal turned out but I'm wondering if you can paint a stock with this. I don't know how baking a stock at 320 for an hour would turn out. Are you guys using air cure or bake on for stocks?
Re: Did my bolt knob
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMC7980</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't know how baking a stock at 320 for an hour would turn out.</div></div>
Not well.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMC7980</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't know how baking a stock at 320 for an hour would turn out.</div></div>
Not well.
Re: Did my bolt knob
I know it won't hold up to that temp but what about a lot lower and a lot longer, or is baking completely out of the question? I was thinking the air dry Cera-kote would be good but I want to match the OD green Gun-kote to the stock. Are all the OD greens standard or are they different from brand to brand?
I know it won't hold up to that temp but what about a lot lower and a lot longer, or is baking completely out of the question? I was thinking the air dry Cera-kote would be good but I want to match the OD green Gun-kote to the stock. Are all the OD greens standard or are they different from brand to brand?
Re: Did my bolt knob
You can get stock kote it is air dry but you can also use gun kote and just leave it in the sun for a while i will harden up but takes alot longer to get super hard after a week it is good to use though but the hotter you bake it the harder it gets so always a compromise. I have now painted around 20 diferent rifles and like GunKote the best we K Phos all metal first to give it a good prep after blasting with Alloy Oxide that is the most important thing because if you use glass or garnet it will impregnate the metal with silica and silica is slipery and the paint will not stick.
I think you have done a great job blending the bolt knob in. I set the bolts up in the mill after i cut the knob through the lobe then mill them square and drill them while set up in the mill then silver solder the stud in it works very well but their is a lot more grinding, blending and finishing but you have more to work with. I have also done Tikka T3's they come out looking like a factory part you have to turn the stud down and insert in so it is not visible and the old knob blends to the tac ops like they were machined att he same time. I have also done Brno 22 rim fires for a few people. Have also fitted LAwton bolt knobs for them i just get an unbrako turn it into a stud at one end then gfit it the same way but blend the handle to the shape of the Lawton knob.
Great work i am glad you got the angle correct a lot of people are fitting bolt knobs paralel to the front of the handle it looks realy bad you have split the angle like the directions. I have also found no Rem bolt handle is the same thickness some you have to grind the front and back to make it blend to the stud others are barley wide enough to fit the stud into.
Well Done
You can get stock kote it is air dry but you can also use gun kote and just leave it in the sun for a while i will harden up but takes alot longer to get super hard after a week it is good to use though but the hotter you bake it the harder it gets so always a compromise. I have now painted around 20 diferent rifles and like GunKote the best we K Phos all metal first to give it a good prep after blasting with Alloy Oxide that is the most important thing because if you use glass or garnet it will impregnate the metal with silica and silica is slipery and the paint will not stick.
I think you have done a great job blending the bolt knob in. I set the bolts up in the mill after i cut the knob through the lobe then mill them square and drill them while set up in the mill then silver solder the stud in it works very well but their is a lot more grinding, blending and finishing but you have more to work with. I have also done Tikka T3's they come out looking like a factory part you have to turn the stud down and insert in so it is not visible and the old knob blends to the tac ops like they were machined att he same time. I have also done Brno 22 rim fires for a few people. Have also fitted LAwton bolt knobs for them i just get an unbrako turn it into a stud at one end then gfit it the same way but blend the handle to the shape of the Lawton knob.
Great work i am glad you got the angle correct a lot of people are fitting bolt knobs paralel to the front of the handle it looks realy bad you have split the angle like the directions. I have also found no Rem bolt handle is the same thickness some you have to grind the front and back to make it blend to the stud others are barley wide enough to fit the stud into.
Well Done
Re: Did my bolt knob
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wild_Bill</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think you have done a great job blending the bolt knob in. I set the bolts up in the mill after i cut the knob through the lobe then mill them square and drill them while set up in the mill then silver solder the stud in it works very well but their is a lot more grinding, blending and finishing but you have more to work with. </div></div>
You mention soldering and while I have done them that way I have found tig welding the stud to be much better. I don't have a mill so I'm stuck doing them with a weld
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wild_Bill</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think you have done a great job blending the bolt knob in. I set the bolts up in the mill after i cut the knob through the lobe then mill them square and drill them while set up in the mill then silver solder the stud in it works very well but their is a lot more grinding, blending and finishing but you have more to work with. </div></div>
You mention soldering and while I have done them that way I have found tig welding the stud to be much better. I don't have a mill so I'm stuck doing them with a weld
Re: Did my bolt knob
The scope rings need to be redone because idiot me didn't AO blast them and I thought it would be fine. <span style="color: #FF0000"><span style="font-weight: bold">Do not do what I did, blast them and be d</span>one</span>. The bolt on the other hand it tough as nails. I tried to scratch the finish off with a screwdriver and pliers and nothing hurt it. The rings are on the way to wnroscoe to be done properly
The scope rings need to be redone because idiot me didn't AO blast them and I thought it would be fine. <span style="color: #FF0000"><span style="font-weight: bold">Do not do what I did, blast them and be d</span>one</span>. The bolt on the other hand it tough as nails. I tried to scratch the finish off with a screwdriver and pliers and nothing hurt it. The rings are on the way to wnroscoe to be done properly
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