stag model 3

sniper81

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 16, 2010
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i have a stag model 3 223 gun shoots great but throws the brass far, was wondering if there was anything i could do to the rifle to make it drop the brass about a foot away or closer, i do not want to buy a new gas tube or anything like that, i read somewhere u can clip some of the recoil spring and it is supposed to help, so before i do this is there anyone on here that has done it
 
Normal functioning for your average AR does NOT include neatly placing brass 1' away or closer. In fact, if brass is trickling out of your rifle in such a fashion, you've got problems. If it is overgassed and throwing brass a blue country mile away, there are ways to deal with that issue, but all involved parts replacement (like an adjustable gas block, heavier buffer/spring, etc.) which you don't sound too keen on doing, but none of those things will really do what you want to do. Shortening your buffer spring is likewise a REALLY BAD idea! If you mean cutting down your ejector spring...that can be done, but be slow and be cautious about doing it. You'll need to strip your bolt down and take a coil off at a time and clean up any damage you do when you cut it, replace, reassemble and test. If you go too far with hacking up your spring, you'll experience FTEs.

Finally, a cardboard box (on the cheap) placed beside your rifle will help out in the brass catching/throwing dept. Or, you can snag a bolt-on deflector that will mount over your receiver and direct brass downward or you can buy a brass catcher (multiple styles and budgets) that will capture your brass neatly in one spot for you! ;)

As for a bipod mount for an MOE: Impact Weapons Components

Just be cautious as mounting any bipod to a non-free-floating handguard could well have a detrimental impact on your rifle's accuracy as every time you load your bipod.
 
ORD hit the nail on the head. Clipping springs isn't a great idea and clipping the buffer spring will make it go further. You could try a heavy buffer though. The cardboard box trick works well. Put a small rock in it or something else handy that's a couple pounds to keep it from blowing over or being knocke over. It's the best brass catcher there is, I've never had luck with the ones that strap on the rifle, they always cause jams.
 
what about putting something on the brass deflector like velcro tape this rifle is one of my main yote hunting rifles so i need to find a solution to keep the brass where i can find it, most of the places i hunt have cattle so i dont want the cows to eat some grass and have them eat a casing
 
The old velcro on the deflector trick isn't going to get done what you want to do. For hunting purposes where you have livestock considerations, environmental considerations (tall grass, lighting, etc. where even if you know where your rifle is throwing brass, finding it may be a different story), etc., your best bet is a bolt-on brass catcher of whatever variety best suits your likings. There are hard-shell units that will bolt on to your receiver's rail, soft-shell/bag type units that mount similarly, as well as some that you can mount on a handguard rail (not a good idea on a non-floating rail though). No better solution to "finding brass" when its bagged up for you and secured to the rifle.
 
ill have to look at some catchers sometime, now onto the handguard is there a good 2 piece handguard that isnt to expensive so i can mount a sitting position bipod on, i also have a question about a ar stoner scope mount i got it say to torque the bottom screws to no more than 35 in-lbs and all other screws no more than 25inlbs is that kinda low for a scope mount thats supposed to hold up to recoil
 
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ill have to look at some catchers sometime, now onto the handguard is there a good 2 piece handguard that isnt to expensive so i can mount a sitting position bipod on, i also have a question about a ar stoner scope mount i got it say to torque the bottom screws to no more than 35 in-lbs and all other screws no more than 25inlbs is that kinda low for a scope mount thats supposed to hold up to recoil

If by "2 piece handguard" you mean some POS that you simply unsnap your MOE and snap on a "railed" type handguard, etc., you might as well rock the MOE as your results will be the same. If you want a decent handguard for use with a bipod, switch to a true FF handguard of whatever type/mfg best suits your needs/budget and stop exerting outside forces onto your rifle's barrel with the MOE/etc. handguards which you'll do with any bipod, foregrip, sling, etc.

As for the AR Stoner scope mount...stick with whatever Midway/etc. said to use in terms of torque or you will likely strip screws or otherwise foul up your mount. They are of pretty cheap quality/components in my experience helping a friend mount one not long ago (I won't get into the @#$% split-ring/base design) and I'm sure weren't made to take the usual amount of torque for the attachment of the mount to your receiver rail (55-65in/lbs or so). As for the ring/cap screws...25in/lbs in actually pretty high and I think (IIRC) that I only torqued the ring screws to 20in/lbs on my friend's mount. Most high quality rings will have torque specs for the cap screws of only ~15-20in/lbs max.