Re: Stainless Steel Media Testimonials
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Moonman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I received my stainless steel media yesterday from THE SOURCE, "MARK" yesterday. I met up with Mark as he traveled across the state of Ohio after leaving the matches at Camp Perry. MARK IS AN ABSOLUTELY WONDERFUL PERSON EVERYONE!!!
Mark is the ORIGINATOR of this process. The other guys are just KNOCKOFF ARTISTS trying to capitalize on the developmental efforts of others. Terry (suasponte) is aiding Mark and others with the promotion of this method by there work with this thread.
You can contact susaponte and he will P.M. or e-mail you Marks contact info to enable you to purchase the MEDIA from Mark, THE ORIGINATOR of the process. Mark has requested that the info NOT BE INTERNET POSTED, PLEASE ABOVE ALL RESPECT HIS WISHES.
Marks STAINLESS STEEL MEDIA IS MAGNETIC, and the Newer is .042 DIA X .252/.255 IN LENGTH, this aids with the stuck in the case problems. Mark's Magnetic media does not rust and can be stored inside the tumbler drum wet. Being magnetic helps you separate the media from the brass. You just put the magnet inside a SANDWICH BAGGIE and then pull the magnet away from the bags side and the COLLECTED media will drop off.
NEW MEDIA should probably be tumbled ALONE the FIRST TIME to help Di-Burr it.
My Thumber's Tumbler Model "B" High Speed 3000 RPM motor speed and 40 RPM drum rotation, 110 Volt,(220/240 Volt International models are available) was purchased from Buffalo Arms in Idaho. It's due here Tuesday.
I have acquired a spray can Rust-oleum Red paint to paint the inside of the drum to prevent rust. Powder-Coating is an option I think better used on a USED DRUM and not a new one.
I have on-hand the 1/4"-20 FEMALE FLUTED ANTI-VIBRATION KNOBS, 6 (six) required to replace the stock Wing-nuts for faster and easier operation, plus they won't go down the drain. Terry suggested these, and I acquired them from McFeeley's. mcfeeleys.com
The knobs SKU number is JKA-2500
These knobs are 1-3/8 O.D. x 9/16 thick, larger O.D. or thicker knobs will not work due to clearance problems.
I ordered from the internet 3/16" thick CLEAR LEXAN plastic to make a clear side-plate to be able to check the cleaning process without having to open the drum up.
Plate will be 9" O.D. x 8" Bolt Circle for six (6) 17/64 holes (1/4" clearance) 60 degrees apart. 6 x 60 degrees = 360 Degrees Circle)
I plan on making another plate for clean-out using an ONEIDA FINE MESH 4" STRAINER model 7822 from Wal-Mart. Media will not pass through it, as I just checked. I plan to mount it with the strainer basket passing outward through the Lexan and NOT having the basket being inside the drum. I also will add a hose fill/flush hole. Thanks to ideas from Terry.
The Mix:
5 lbs Mark's Stainless Steel Media. (NO more on this size tumbler, to prevent motor overload)
Approx. One (1) Gallon Warm Water. Water weighs approx 8lb/gal.
1-2 tablespoons of DAWN Dish-Washing Liquid.
1 Teaspoon Lemi-Shine Dish-Washing Rinse.
Your dirty Di-Capped Brass (2 lbs worth of load weight, NO MORE)
ESTIMATED BRASS LOADS:
.308 .4OZ 80 CASES ARE APPROX. 2 LBS.
.223 .2oz 160 Cases
.45ACP .2oz 160 Cases
.40S&W .15oz 212 Cases
9MM .14oz 228 Cases
THE ABOVE ARE BRASS LOAD GUIDELINES
You can EXPERIMENT with total tumbling time, maybe start with 3-4 hours.
If NO SOAP BUBBLES are present when tumbling is complete, you need more soap.
THE HARDNESS OF YOUR WATER WILL AFFECT THIS.
I have a "Doit" COUNTDOWN DIGITAL TIMER, outlet timer control, easy 1 push button use for 1-2-4 or an 8 hour setting.
SKU Number 520462 and PURCHASED ONLINE.
DO NOT OVERLOAD YOUR TUMBLER, weight the drum empty, then the total loaded weight of the drum is 15 lbs more than that so you don't hurt the motor. WEIGH IT, DON'T GUESS THE WEIGHT, THEN YOU REALLY KNOW.
The motor needs occasional lubrication, Mobile-One synthetic 5W-20W is a suggestion. You can use a small 2 oz Lube-All plastic bottle dispenser with a long skinny nozzle to reach inside the motor case. You should lube with the motor running. ***(A video describing the motor lubrication method is among these threads somewhere.)***
After tumbling you need to RINSE-RINSE-RINSE, the Black is Carbon. After rinsing you separate media from the brass, this is where the Magnetic deal really comes into use. The brass needs to dry next.
Some people oven dry, dry in the Sun, use a dehydrator, use a drying box that they home built, and others use an ALCOHOL DIPPING METHOD.
The ALCOHOL DIP uses 91-99% strength alcohol, DO NOT USE DRUGSTORE 70% STRENGTH. You shake/towel dry most of the water off of the cases and then put them into a bucket/container of the 91-99% strength alcohol. Take them out and shake, they will be dry very quickly and be ready to reload.
The alcohol will eventually become waterlogged and have to be replaced.
***ALWAYS RETURN THE ALCOHOL TO ITS ORIGINAL CONTAINER FOR STORAGE.***
*** ALWAYS BE MINDFUL OF THE FIRE HAZARD ASSOCIATED WITH USING THIS METHOD.****
I've gleaned the above information from the many pages of threads concerning this method of BRASS CASE TUMBLING. I HOPE IT HELPS SOMEONE.
Many, Many thanks to MARK AND TERRY for their dedicated efforts with this subject. This great deal of concentrated information has been a God's Send.
Good Luck To All With Great Shooting, And Even Better Luck With Tumbling Via This Method Of Stainless Steel Media and a Rock Rotary Tumbler.
MOONMAN (Soon To Be Stainless Steel Media Tumbling) </div></div>
That's about all there is to say about the subject.
Well done!
