Steel Target Stand Recommendations

eazy

Private
Minuteman
Apr 17, 2017
78
28
Jacksonville, FL
My local range is 850 yards, but I need to bring my own steel targets and stands. I'd like to shoot out to 850 yards with .223, .308, and 6.5 creedmoor (and beyond if I find some land).

What type of steel target stand would you recommend to balance the ease of transporting the stand to the range, the ease of moving the stand between distances, and the ease of spotting hits at 850 with .223?

Thank you.
 
IMG_7765.JPG
IMG_7766.JPG
 
I have a few different setups. But this is my favorite. It is by far the easiest and most stable "portable" rifle steel setup Ive bought or used. 3 pieces easily thrown in the back of your car, truck or SUV. Drive out, throw the stand on the ground, dropped the protected 2x4 post into the stand, then drop the top mount/steel onto the top of the 2x4 post. We are talking setup or tear down in 30sec.

I take these to my local range so portable and easy to setup was my goal and this is it. Now if I had a permanent range where they stayed there then I probably would be using something else.


 
  • Like
Reactions: Kane0519
I also have a few of the setups that use a T-Post (Stop Sign Post) that you have to bring a sledge, hammer into the ground, set the mount on the t-post, use wrench to tighten the bolt to hold the mount to the T-post, put your steel on. Works, but takes WAY longer to setup and take down, requires you to bring tools, pain in the ass ripping that post out of the ground after your done. I never use those setups, they sit in the garage now.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lunchbox27
I've really enjoyed TA Targets A-DAP silhouette targets for stands and targets. Just add your own 2x4 and you're ready to go, they're very easy to set up and move around. I have 2 of their mini A-DAPs in 1/2" AR550 that have done very well, even shooting them w/ .223 AR at as little as 30yds. However, it can be difficult to see impacts, especially if hit near the top at the hanger, as they don't swing much.

For gongs, I've made decent, cheap stands with 2x4s and hung the gong with recycled fire hose. Fire hose is a much better hanger than chain as it won't break if hit by a bullet, though the outer sheath is torn up by the lead splatter. They take a bit more to set up, but much easier to see impacts from small calibers at long ranges.
 
However, it can be difficult to see impacts, especially if hit near the top at the hanger, as they don't swing much.

Yep, this is why I love the www.shootsteel.com target stand I posted above. Their steel mount angles the steel and is on a big spring allowing the steel plate to float so you get a good report upon impact. I shoot mine with 22LR out to 400yd and hear it no problem
 
  • Like
Reactions: eazy and Supersum1
I've settled on the following...

Start with two ~8 ft lengths of rebar. Heat a short section with a torch to make a sharp bend. Cut two short lengths of rebar to weld across the sharp bend on the inside of the bend.

Those are the legs of a stand. For the cross member (to hang the target from) just slide another piece of rebar between these two legs.

If you have short lengths of tubing they're better welded on the inside of the legs' sharp bends for keeping the cross member in place.

Cheap, easy, light.
 
Tyler with MK Machining has several options, I think he's a sponsor on here also. I was in a similar situation so I purchased some of his t-post mounts and AR steel. You can find people selling the posts cheap or even sometimes giving them away. Just drive the post in a little bit, slide the mount on, tighten the set screw, and hang the steel. I like that you can vary the height, distance, and target type quickly and easily. He has some of his square steel that's gridded in 1" squares that is handy when you're making adjustments or taking down load specific data for your charts.
 
  • Like
Reactions: isofahunter
If you can use T-posts, the JC Steel T-post brackets are awesome. Once the bracket is bolted to the plate, you can just drop it on the T-post, no additional wrenching. I like using the T-post because it's just 1 piece to carry, and they're positively anchored and stable. But I am leaving them set up semi-permanently.
 
I built my own out of some scrap would pieces I had laying around. Used a 4x4, 2x4, 2x2s, some #10x 3in deck screws, and a bike hook lag that I had to heat up and bend so the target would go on. Semi lightweight and sturdy hit it with a 6.5 and 308 at 200 and it held up perfectly
 

Attachments

  • 20200425_200205.jpg
    20200425_200205.jpg
    291 KB · Views: 213
  • 20200425_200156.jpg
    20200425_200156.jpg
    287.3 KB · Views: 384
Thanks!

Is yours 1/2" or 3/8"?

It seems like yours is slightly different than the 1/2" one with 4 bolts going for $345.

They have a 3/8" one with 1 bolt and 2x4 protector for $242. Just wondering if I can get away with that.

 
Thanks!

Is yours 1/2" or 3/8"?

It seems like yours is slightly different than the 1/2" one with 4 bolts going for $345.

They have a 3/8" one with 1 bolt and 2x4 protector for $242. Just wondering if I can get away with that.



I'm running 1/2" AR550 on mine. Not sure about the difference in mounting but mine works great. I've had 2 of them for probably 2yr now...


 
Thanks!

Is yours 1/2" or 3/8"?

It seems like yours is slightly different than the 1/2" one with 4 bolts going for $345.

They have a 3/8" one with 1 bolt and 2x4 protector for $242. Just wondering if I can get away with that.


Here is the link to the single hole 1/2" steel with holder, stand and 2x4 protector that I have


 
Thanks for all of the recommendations. I picked up a surplus 3/8" thick 12x20" static target package, a surplus 3/8" thick 5" plate, and a shepherds hook.


 
Easy
Thanks for all of the recommendations. I picked up a surplus 3/8" thick 12x20" static target package, a surplus 3/8" thick 5" plate, and a shepherds hook.


[/QUOTE

If you're referring to Bradford's people bring the post and stand types, I would try and stick with stands those posts can be a bear to get out. I built 5 20x20 bases that use a 2x4 for a post and picked up a set of targets off Amazon. They work pretty good and are fairly cheap to make. I've got enough to go every hundred yards or so, which makes it nice so you dont have to move them constantly.
20200404_204755.jpg
8.jpeg
2557.jpeg
20200404_204750.jpg
 
Is the ground soft enought to drive in a T-post and extract it without too much difficulty? Easy peasy.


You'll need to pick up one of JC's targets with the slot, too. Best system going.
 
T-Posts all the way with a hanger on top. No issues with slopes or uneven ground. I shoot on farm fields so the ground is generally soft enough to get them in the ground easily. Rock them back and forth and they'll come out without much of a fight. I usually set up at least 4+ at a time, so carrying a small sledge hammer is still lighter than 4+ stands.

If you have the extra coin, go for the flasher on the distant targets.
 
I use two T posts driven with a post driver about 24"apart. Two pieces of 12" chain holds the steel gong in between the posts. There are some AR500 brackets on Amazon that are about $25 which connect chains to the posts. Works really well and easy to install/ set up, good movement on bullet impacts.
 
I use two T posts driven with a post driver about 24"apart. Two pieces of 12" chain holds the steel gong in between the posts. There are some AR500 brackets on Amazon that are about $25 which connect chains to the posts. Works really well and easy to install/ set up, good movement on bullet impacts.
I was planning on putting a 8" plate in the center, 2- 6" plates on each side of that then, 2- 3" plates on the outside of those. Triyng to decide on using rebar or schedule 40 pipe as the frame. It will be permanent install.
 
Last edited:
I was planning on putting a 8" plate in the center, 2- 6" plates on each side of that then, 2- 3" plates on the outside of those. Tring to decide on using rebar or schedule 40 pipe as the frame. It will be permanent install.
Neither will stand up to many direct hits with a rifle. The rebar is likely the best of the two.
The fire hose/ heavy rubber strap seems to hold up better than chain.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BisSilent
the idea of having a "clanker" behind the actual target is very helpful............. as simple as hanging from a T-post helps audible identification of hits. or a clanker hanging down behind your taget
 
Floral hooks. That your wife hangs her potted plants from. They’re like 7 bucks at Home Depot. I hang 8” all the way up to 24” 3/8” gongs on them. 2 for each plate. They’re super light, and hold up surprisingly well. I’ve hit them with creedmoors, 308s, 300 winmags. and they never fall or fold over.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LooseGoose
Five 48" x 1/2" black iron pipe lengths

Two 90° elbows.

Two T fittings.

Two black iron nipples.

Old 4" ratchet strap for hangers

3/8" hardware.

Easy assemble/disassemble and around $60.
20200523_173255.jpg
 
Neither will stand up to many direct hits with a rifle. The rebar is likely the best of the two.
The fire hose/ heavy rubber strap seems to hold up better than chain.
20200703_113827.jpg

So.....high tensile strenght chain became the MISSING LINK 😂🤣 Going to get rubber belting🙄
 
Fire hose, conveyor belt and HD straps are far better than chain
Local Agri Supply has 4"and 5" wide conveyor belt available, gonna pick some up on Monday!! Was thinking I could use a 2x4 mounted between 2 trees since it will be a semi-permanent installation to hang them from???
 
These are Nice.

 
i like this type
 
How are you hanging it that the frag touches it? Mine is bolted to the back and the frag doesn't touch it.
Might work on an ipsc where the "head" covers most of it but it doesn't work on a round plate. Probably more the fact that I tried it on my practice plate that gets about 100 rounds or more a week on it, some impacts are high because it's positional practice. The belts I use are hay baler belts, I have plenty I've kept throughout the years.