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Don't remove the turret! Loosen the set screws, turn turret a little (even 180), tighten set screws, move down the clicks you need, loosen and reset to zero. Hope this helps.
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Wasn't impressed with the 5-25x56. Too big and long for anything but a massive rifle and the turrets were extremely difficult to read. They are imprinted with gray dash marks on a black turret housing. That's like reading a web page with fuscia font on a lime green background (poor contrast). I also could not tell where I was at the 1st-2nd revolution turning point at 14 mils. IMO scope manufacturers need to follow Vortex's lead and make scopes more user friendly. As far as zero stops, everyone has them now-a-days...if a scope doesn't have one then its not much of a tactical scope. Heck even my $300 swfa has one!
Hey, I have it on top of an M107A1 with a 27 MOA canted rail. I couldn't get enough elevation with just loosening it. I had to take it up high enough to clear the stop. The stop works and the nipple still pops after the first rotation.
am I doing it wrong?
I would also like to know how they go in low light situations as well in spotlighting conditions. Maybe QuickDraw has some answers.
I love mine, but I'm not the biggest fan of the zero stop. I reload and test different loads, and It's kind of cumbersome to have to remove the turret to be able to move the point of impact down. Unless I'm doing something wrong.
Other than that, AWESOME GLASS and built like a tank. My 3-12 is on my M107A1
The zero stop can be a LITTLE more time consuming (~1 min) if you have to go down further than 0.2, but my zero is usually spot on and never more than 0.2 off.
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Don't remove the turret! Loosen the set screws, turn turret a little (even 180), tighten set screws, move down the clicks you need, loosen and reset to zero. Hope this helps.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
It's the trade off for having a very positive, no tools, no shims, no BS zero stop.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk