I would like to make a bolt knob for my TAC338 action while I'm waiting on it. If anyone can help me out with the thread size and diameter at the base where it mates up to the bolt lever that'd be great.
TIA
TIA
Gunsmithing Stiller bolt knob thread size?
- Thread starter bodywerks
- Start date
For anyone that cares, the answer i was looking for was .351"
But the bolt lever is so long that this knob wouldn't have looked right if i started from that shoulder, so i counter-bored and tapered it at 7.3° to match the taper of the lever to inset the knob by .350". For my second knob ever I'm happy with the results:
But the bolt lever is so long that this knob wouldn't have looked right if i started from that shoulder, so i counter-bored and tapered it at 7.3° to match the taper of the lever to inset the knob by .350". For my second knob ever I'm happy with the results:
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Huh? I guess that's why its called 5/16 then...
But the base of the bolt lever where the threads end and the lever starts was the diameter i was looking for. I didn't have the action at the time and didn't anticipate having it for a few months. I got lucky and found one here so i was able to take measurements for myself.
But the base of the bolt lever where the threads end and the lever starts was the diameter i was looking for. I didn't have the action at the time and didn't anticipate having it for a few months. I got lucky and found one here so i was able to take measurements for myself.
Base diameter huh? Are we talking about major, minor, or pitch diameter. If its 5/16 then that's your major diameter which then you figure out your correct drill number if its an internal thread. If its an external thread turn the diameter .005 - .010 under major diameter. Hope this helps.
There seems to be a bit of confusion here............pitch, major/minor dia etc. ?????
Can't say for certain but I believe the OP felt that with the combination of the knob he made installed on the Stiller bolt handle(he calls it a lever) was to long and would look odd. He simply wanted the OD at the shoulder junction. He wound up counterboring the knob so it would fit over the shoulder of the handle thus reducing the OAL just under 3/8 of an inch.
Thinking I have this right, nice job BTW.
Can't say for certain but I believe the OP felt that with the combination of the knob he made installed on the Stiller bolt handle(he calls it a lever) was to long and would look odd. He simply wanted the OD at the shoulder junction. He wound up counterboring the knob so it would fit over the shoulder of the handle thus reducing the OAL just under 3/8 of an inch.
Thinking I have this right, nice job BTW.
That is right. Originally, i was just going to make a knob that was flush to the handle/lever like the original. But the bolt handle is already 3.3"long (center of bolt to end of knob). Doing a flush knob would have put me at like 4", so i counter bored the knob .350" and tapered it to match that of the handle (7.4° for those that care). Doing this, i was able to keep the handle oal at 3.65".
.....Mmmmmm yeah with a little work. Paul is right - as is the Surgeon knob is too long when installed on a Stiller/PTG handle. Good thing is that they are bored and threaded deep. Cut off around .250" of the "shank" portion of the Surgeon knob; then taper to fit the diameter of the handle. Here is a pic of a Surgeon knob on a Stiller bolt (top FDE); and on a Remington handle (middle). SR
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Did you heat up and bend the stiller/ptg handle? I thought they all came straight. I decided to keep this one straight, but actually prefer the swept back look - so much so that i did it to my savage:
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The Stiller TAC30 actions come with a one piece bolt with swept handle. No heating/bending done.
If you order just a regular PTG handle from PTG they are straight. I've bent several of those for the swept look and stock fit/clearance.
If you order just a regular PTG handle from PTG they are straight. I've bent several of those for the swept look and stock fit/clearance.
