Gunsmithing Stiller Tac 30 Ejector

[dsnipe]

Got a stiller tac 30 built by beanland in 243. I am having a problem with the ejection. Once fired the ejector is grabbing case but when bolt full open it justs drops case in port. Is it possiby just a bad spring or? Its the sakostyle ejector. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[STR]

Do you mean the extractor? If so, the cheapest thing to do is change it out for a new one. If its a Stiller, give them a call, and they may help you out better than you might think.

 

[Icallem]

I have a Stiller Tac 30 AW and it was doing the same thing. I called Stiller and was directed to move my scope as the brass was hitting it and dropping back into the action. I thought they were out there, like Pluto, but moved the scope and sure enough everything worked as it should.

This might not be what you have going on, but it is a cheap fix if it is.

Hope this helps.

 

[dsnipe]

Thanks for the replys. I emailed stiller. I know its not scope thing cause I can pull back bolt slow or fast and it definetly does not attempt to throw brass at all. Brass never makes it out of ejection port at all no matter what I do.

 

[Rthur]

Ill bet that you are missing a spring or you have brass holding it flush and not doing it's job.
Sometimes brass can get wedged in with the ejector and make it stick in place.
With the right size punch you can remove the ejector and clean out the brass.
Be careful not to let the spring go flying across the room.

R

 

[blackblue]

Measure your ejector, the one in my last tac30 was short.

 

[dsnipe]

Awesome I will take it apart and see what's going on inside when I get the chance after stupid work lol. U guys are the best. Thanks

 

[Xander3Zero]

Awesome I will take it apart and see what's going on inside when I get the chance after stupid work lol. U guys are the best. Thanks

Bumping this because I am having the same exact problem on my Tac30... I am 100% positive the brass isn’t hitting my scope turrets.

If I run the bolt hard and fast, there’s no issue. But if I bring the bolt back slow (like I normally prefer to do) there’s a hit or miss chance the ejector just leaves the cases in the receiver. The bolt has the Sako style extractor and it seems to be functioning fine.

I have read that other people have had weak ejector springs or out of spec ejectors so I am wondering if that may be my issue?

Any help is appreciated!


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[Xander3Zero]

Okay so I did a little more investigating last night with some empty pieces of fire formed federal brass. I'm not entirely sure but it seems like I'm having multiple issues during ejection.

For background, this is a left hand Stiller Tac30 with a 223 bolt face and Sako extractor and its sitting in a McMillan stock. If I run the bolt fast, the brass sometimes contacts the parallax turret of my Bushnell DMR2. It is the non-illuminated model and the parallax turret isn't that big so this seems pretty annoying to me. I can't imagine moving my scope forward or backwards at all to eliminate this issue; my eye relief is set up perfectly.

On the other hand, when I pull the bolt rearward slowly, there's an intermittent chance that the ejector just leaves the case in the receiver. Every once in a while the ejection seems perfect and the case is flung out of of the receiver and spins end over end (like a proper plunger-ejector should function). Sometimes, even when the ejector manages to get it out of the receiver it seems like weak ejection and doesn't flip end over end like I would expect. So it seems like sometimes ejection is proper, sometimes ejection is weak, sometimes ejection causes the brass to hit the parallax turret, and sometimes ejection just leaves the cases in the receiver.

I'm not even sure where to begin. I did use the wooden dowel end of a Q-tip to work the ejector in and out a bunch, and some brass chips were freeing up in doing so. It didn't seem to have much of an effect on the ejection issues. I'm going to contact Stiller and see if they can offer any help. I am tempted to just buy a new Sako extractor and a new ejector plunger/spring and replace both to see if it helps at all. Can anyone confirm that the ejector is just the standard Remington 700 ejector and spring shown in the links below?

https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/bolt-parts/ejector-parts/ejectors/ejector-prod10767.aspx
https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...ejector-springs/ejector-spring-prod10768.aspx

Hoping that someone here that has had the same issue might be able to chime in with their solution, otherwise I'll just have to see what Stiller says.

 

[Kadams1563]

I have a friend that has a Stiller Tac 30 and he is having the issue of the brass hitting his windage turret. The brass will then fly right back into the action.

Moving his scope isn’t going to work much because he is using the Gen II vortex and we all know the knobs in that thing are massive.


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[Xander3Zero]

I have a friend that has a Stiller Tac 30 and he is having the issue of the brass hitting his windage turret. The brass will then fly right back into the action.

Moving his scope isn’t going to work much because he is using the Gen II vortex and we all know the knobs in that thing are massive.


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From a little research I can see that issue is not new and a few people have had to modify their extractor's slightly to allow a lower ejection angle. I'm really not 100% sold that this is my only issue as I'm almost positive there are occurrences where the brass is NOT hitting the turret but is still ejecting improperly (either by just laying in the ejection port, or by ejecting weakly). I'll wait to hear back from Stiller and hopefully they will take care of me.

 

[Xander3Zero]

Well, I feel pretty stupid but tonight after work I decided to remove my scope and mess around with extracting/ejecting a piece of empty brass. With my scope removed, I couldn't replicate any of the poor ejection issues that I mention in the above posts. Talk about a poor ejection angle... hits the parallax turret of DMR2. I am going to call Stiller tomorrow and hopefully I can send my bolt to out to have them modify the extractor to fix the ejection angle. Or it looks like I could probably grind a bit off the corner of the extractor to reduce the angle like some others have done.

 

[FatBoy]

grinding some the top is pretty common on Sakos. In Iraq, buddy took a hack saw to his one piece base for the same shit. (M700LA, Sako extractor installed by Crane). It's a simple process to gently file and polish the corner, but it takes time removing and re-installing the extractor.

You said working it slow had it grabbed. This should have nothing to do with the scope. Are you raising any burrs on the case rim? If so it's probably just a little tight. You can polish the extractor groove with a cratex bit in a Dremel (slowly and carefully) and if that doesn't fix it maybe use a small flat file to open the extractor groove (Barrel side, not bolt side) a few thou a re-polish.

Edit: I posted a pic of my Stiller mk13 M16 style extractor below. Not 100% apples to apples but this gives you an idea of what I'm talking about.

 

[FatBoy]

 

[ZY100]

If this is a left hand action...be sure you dont have a right hand extractor installed.

 

[lte82]

Interesting. I have a left hand TAC 30 AW and have used both an HDMR and HDMR2 with no issues. Are the rings super low? How far set back is the scope? What cartridge? I had this issue once, and I don't remember what action it was on, but I slid my scope forward or back a little and it fixed the problem. If the rings are really low, adding even a couple tenths of an inch to the height can fix the clearance issue as well. You may try that before you start filing parts or messing with springs.

 

[Xander3Zero]

grinding some the top is pretty common on Sakos. In Iraq, buddy took a hack saw to his one piece base for the same shit. (M700LA, Sako extractor installed by Crane). It's a simple process to gently file and polish the corner, but it takes time removing and re-installing the extractor.

You said working it slow had it grabbed. This should have nothing to do with the scope. Are you raising any burrs on the case rim? If so it's probably just a little tight. You can polish the extractor groove with a cratex bit in a Dremel (slowly and carefully) and if that doesn't fix it maybe use a small flat file to open the extractor groove (Barrel side, not bolt side) a few thou a re-polish.

Edit: I posted a pic of my Stiller mk13 M16 style extractor below. Not 100% apples to apples but this gives you an idea of what I'm talking about.

Thanks for the information, when I removed my scope, I couldn't replicate any ejection issues. I don't think the extractor is tight in its groove; it moves pretty freely when I prod it with my finger. I think I am going to order a spare extractor and attempt to file one down to mimic what you show in your picture. I have seen other's modified in the same way via some google pictures and it looks fairly straight forward.

If this is a left hand action...be sure you dont have a right hand extractor installed.

I'm not sure what you are saying... I am pretty sure that the extractors are symmetric, and what differentiates a LH vs. RH is the placement/timing of the extractor groove cutout on the bolt face.

Interesting. I have a left hand TAC 30 AW and have used both an HDMR and HDMR2 with no issues. Are the rings super low? How far set back is the scope? What cartridge? I had this issue once, and I don't remember what action it was on, but I slid my scope forward or back a little and it fixed the problem. If the rings are really low, adding even a couple tenths of an inch to the height can fix the clearance issue as well. You may try that before you start filing parts or messing with springs.

I am using Seekins 34mm Low rings, so yes the rings are fairly low. Honestly I don't think moving my scope forward/back or getting higher rings is a good solution. I have my eye relief set up perfectly and the ejection angle is just clearly too high... its not like my scope has a huge windage turret, its just hitting the bare parallax (no illum) turret. This is for 223 Rem.

 

[FatBoy]

FWIW, mine came like that from Stiller. I didn't have to modify anything with a Stiller 30moa base and low Badgers under a 30mm tubed Leupold.

 

[Xander3Zero]

FWIW, mine came like that from Stiller. I didn't have to modify anything with a Stiller 30moa base and low Badgers under a 30mm tubed Leupold.

That's interesting information. I wonder if I my action was some old stock or something like that, and maybe Stiller now ships them out the door with the extractors already modified? I am in contact with Stiller, so I will see what they say. It would be *mint* if they just said that they could send me an already-modified extractor as a drop in replacement for mine.

 

[FatBoy]

Russ was great to deal with. Not sure if the mk13 has anything different than the tac300 other than the scan to install and no lighten cut. I believe they are the same otherwise. There are enough Tac30s out there that someone should be able to say if theirs have the bevel or not.

 

[ZY100]

===============
I'm not sure what you are saying... I am pretty sure that the extractors are symmetric, and what differentiates a LH vs. RH is the placement/timing of the extractor groove cutout on the bolt face.
===============

Yes, the bevel on corner of the extractor will vary for a rt and lt hand bolt. At least it did for me...I had a similar problem with a custom action and the brass dropping in the port It was driving me crazy, but after a while finally realized my left hand bolt had a rt hand extractor (by comparing a left and right bolt).

Swapped it out and never a single issue since then. I can not tell from your picture as I think the bolt is rotated and my bolt is even stranger with left bolt, right eject.
Worth asking Stiller the question...

Good Luck.

ZY

 

[Xander3Zero]

===============
I'm not sure what you are saying... I am pretty sure that the extractors are symmetric, and what differentiates a LH vs. RH is the placement/timing of the extractor groove cutout on the bolt face.
===============

Yes, the bevel on corner of the extractor will vary for a rt and lt hand bolt. At least it did for me...I had a similar problem with a custom action and the brass dropping in the port It was driving me crazy, but after a while finally realized my left hand bolt had a rt hand extractor (by comparing a left and right bolt).

Swapped it out and never a single issue since then. I can not tell from your picture as I think the bolt is rotated and my bolt is even stranger with left bolt, right eject.
Worth asking Stiller the question...

Good Luck.

ZY

A standard, stock Sako extractor has no bevel in it, and is 100% symmetric; therefor it is the same for a LH and RH bolt. The extractor in my bolt doesn't have any bevel in the claw and that it why it is ejected the brass at a high angle.

But yes, you are partly correct, if you are going to bevel the extractor claw to lower the ejection angle, the bevel will be on different sides of the claw for a RH or LH bolt.

 

[lte82]

This is a pretty good explanation on why this is happening with a stiller more than others. OP, I would watch this.

https://youtu.be/GNeWpkpJs-0

Also, I checked mine and while it is not hitting the scope, it is beating the hell out of the underside of the scope base.

 

[Xander3Zero]

This is a pretty good explanation on why this is happening with a stiller more than others. OP, I would watch this.

https://youtu.be/GNeWpkpJs-0

Also, I checked mine and while it is not hitting the scope, it is beating the hell out of the underside of the scope base.

Wow yeah, it totally looks like something that Stiller should be fixing in their design. I get that they put those "moon" shaped cuts in the front/rear of the ejection port to help with ejected longer, loaded rounds, but they should address this instead of just continuing to produce the same design.

I am HOPING (fingers crossed) that I can get mine to extract reliably by just slightly modifying the extractor claw, as I would be incredibly upset if my brand new rifle needed to have the receiver body modified in order to function properly. I talked with Stiller yesterday, and they said I could go ahead and try modifying the claw myself to remedy the problem, but they are also going to have someone in the machine shop grind a new extractor and send it to me if needed.

 

[Xander3Zero]

To update this thread: I took a file to my Sako extractor and put a slight angle in the edge of the claw. It seems to have cured my ill ejection issues. I am able to reliably extract and eject cases without them hitting the scope turrets, or falling back into the receiver.

On another note, Stiller was responsive and helpful as well. They called me this morning, like they said they would, and are sending me another extractor that they ground for me. It will be nice to have a spare in case I ever loose one or something like that.

Thanks to everyone here who helped out.

 

[wes1]

Russ at Stiller is a good dude.
Glad they got you taken care of