Stripped rail screws how to unscrew?

[RTTY]

Hello,
I have one stripped screws on the Picatinny rail of my rifle.

I made some attemps with WD40, soldering iron, various size of torx and Allen bit, but not lucky for me.

I would make another attempt with epoxy glue for iron, placing One drop on the head of the screws for gluing the torx bit.

Guys please can help me with yours advices?

Thanks

 

[Mbaysinger89]

 

[Makinchips208]

If the screw itself is stripped?
If so see post #2

Use a drill bit equal to or slightly larger than the thread diameter of the bad screw.

Turn it slow, and drill right in the stripped out screw head.
It will take the head of the screw right off so it can be disassembled.

Edit: you only use this method to drill the head off of a screw that has stripped torx or hex. Only drill as deep as the head of the screw, not any deeper.

 

[RTTY]

Ok, but this Is the only change to unscrew tre stripped head?

On Amazon we have this kit for stripped screws , do you think about?:

Estrattore Di Viti, [22 Pcs] Diyife Estrattore di viti Jellas, Set Di Estrattori Di Bulloni Danneggiati Dispositivo Di Rimozione Bullone Rotto In Acciaio H.S.S per Danneggiati/Spellati https://amzn.eu/d/6QSENmU

 

[Makinchips208]

I’m skeptical of those, but they do work decently sometimes.
Is there thread locker inside the threads?

And a picture of the stripped screw would help make the problem more clear to us.

 

[Ziloooo]

Any photo?

I would try below in order:

• use a more snug fit bit with impact driver (the manual one, you have to use togerther with a hammer)
• screw extractor set
• cut a groove using dremel tool

 

[Redlion]

Easy out maybe?

 

[Sterlingb06]

Before going the epoxy route, have you tried using a rubber band or a pair of pliers for extra grip? Sometimes that little extra traction can help loosen them up. If that doesn’t work, heating the screw gently with a heat gun can help.

 

[AirGunShawn]

I suspect that is a #6-32 with a flat point. If so, i would order a 3/32 ( .0937") drill from McMaster Carr.
A #6-32 has a major diameter of .138" and a minor diameter of .106" Your left-handed drill will induce
vibrations and create heat while you drill out the set screw. As you remove material, the set screw will also
contract a little bit as you remove its center section.
Post 3 says: "Use a drill bit equal to or slightly larger than the thread diameter of the bad screw."
DONT DO THAT !! If you do that, you will drill the threads out of the mount itself!
The largest drill you would want to use is a 7-64 ( .1094") You don't want to drill any larger than the
minor diameter of the set screw.

 

[45-90]

Picture?... there are tools like easy out, that do not usually work, it things are very tight, or glued in.
Depends on what, where, and the extent of the problem.
What always works on broken taps, stripped screw heads and HS tooling....is, carbide end mill, of the appropriate size in the milling machine. Ideal is a big CNC mill in the manual mode, feed set on 1/10,000, spindle 1800 rpm, coolest off, for small taps and broken drills. Never lost an expensive part with this setup. It's totally cool to feel, hear, and sense the feel of cutting hardened tool steel, with an 600 to 800 lb spindle, and a tiny carbide end mill.
Drill baby drill...
Where is the picture?
One screw just leave it, or take out the others, drill of the head with a center drill, pull of the rail exposing the portion of the screw sticking out...get a good grip with a Vise - Grip pliers, turn out the screw....if it breaks, back to drill... it's important to get the broken screw top flat, to keep a drill from wandering, off center. Back to the milling machine.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

Yeah I had to drill out screws on a rail last week. Well, I actually took it to my buddies shop for them to drill it out. They did and got it off without damage to my handgard or arca rail. I wasn't confident I could do it and not hit one or the other. Those screws can be really difficult. From now on, lock tight(blue) with correct torque, and not me gorilla fisting it on there. Don't want that again. Good luck with the drill, unless of course you somehow happen to have a milling machine. I doubt it or you probably wouldn't have asked to begin with.

 

[Aftermath]

Drill out just to where the countersink of the screw is gone. The rail will then lift off over the remaining part of the screw. There will be a bit of a nub of the screw left and you can likely grab that with a pliers or locking pliers to remove the screw.

 

[Makinchips208]

I suspect that is a #6-32 with a flat point. If so, i would order a 3/32 ( .0937") drill from McMaster Carr.
A #6-32 has a major diameter of .138" and a minor diameter of .106" Your left-handed drill will induce
vibrations and create heat while you drill out the set screw. As you remove material, the set screw will also
contract a little bit as you remove its center section.
Post 3 says: "Use a drill bit equal to or slightly larger than the thread diameter of the bad screw."
DONT DO THAT !! If you do that, you will drill the threads out of the mount itself!
The largest drill you would want to use is a 7-64 ( .1094") You don't want to drill any larger than the
minor diameter of the set screw.

In this case it won’t hurt the threads (based on the op’s description). You are simply cutting the head of the screw off.

If the head is already broken off (not what the op stated) then in that case you are correct that a smaller drill bit is needed.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Drill out just to where the countersink of the screw is gone. The rail will then lift off over the remaining part of the screw. There will be a bit of a nub of the screw left and you can likely grab that with a pliers or locking pliers to remove the screw.

This. Heat the action up good around it first and use needle nose vise grips clamped on damn tight (and the right direction for the teeth) and it will come. Don’t try to use pliers with just hand pressure, all you’ll do it round off material and make it more difficult.

 

[johnnyvw]

Agree this is the best way to do it. I would also recommend using a cobalt centering drill...the cobalt will hold up to the steel of the screw better and the shaft of a centering drill is much larger than the actuall drilling point so it won't tend to "walk"

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[RTTY]

Hello, thanks for all the answers!

Yes I missed some datails... Sorry!

Some photos for you, the screw are recessed on the rail, so are impossible to grip them with the pression plier or some type of vice.

A friend of mine have a hobbyst milling machine but I don know wath type of bit this have.

I've buyed an epoxy glue for metal and I hink to make a test before drill the screw and fin to snap the head...

The shank of the screw are 0.134" the head 0.194"

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Hello, thanks for all the answers!

Yes I missed some datails... Sorry!

Some photos for you, the screw are recessed on the rail, so are impossible to grip them with the pression plier or some type of vice.

A friend of mine have a hobbyst milling machine but I don know wath type of bit this have.

I've buyed an epoxy glue for metal and I hink to make a test before drill the screw and fin to snap the head...

The shank of the screw are 0.134" the head 0.194"

You need to drill the head completely off so that you can remove the rail. THEN you can get vise grips on them.

With as fucked as that rail already is if it’s aluminum I would feel pretty comfortable chucking the action in a vise and smacking the rail with a punch and bigass hammer from the underside of the dovetail too and just sacrifice the rail. Then you’ll have the screw exposed to grab with vise grips.

Drilling the head off the screw is the safer and more delicate option though.

 

[AirGunShawn]

What is that stuff in the threads? Loc-Tite? If so....you used too much. If so, heat will be your friend.
What size is the screw? I only use #222 purple for gun screws. I often use Bow String wax on baby screws.

* Drill it out with a left-hand drill bit. Heat and vibration. It looks like you still have the center line of the screw
to align your drill bit.
* Try an Easy -out. Trade size #1? See McMaster Carr.
* Mill or drill the entire head off of the screw. You will still need to remove the threaded section from your rifle.
Once the rail is removed, some threads will remain sticking out.
* TIG weld a nut onto the exposed threads.
I would try the first two before I took it to a machine shop. But I have the LH drills and easy outs.
Be sure to exercise good judgment so that you don't make things worse.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

What is that stuff in the threads? Loc-Tite? If so....you used too much. If so, heat will be your friend.
What size is the screw? I only use #222 purple for gun screws. I often use Bow String wax on baby screws.

* Drill it out with a left-hand drill bit. Heat and vibration. It looks like you still have the center line of the screw
to align your drill bit.
* Try an Easy -out. Trade size #1? See McMaster Carr.
* Mill or drill the entire head off of the screw. You will still need to remove the threaded section from your rifle.
Once the rail is removed, some threads will remain sticking out.
* TIG weld a nut onto the exposed threads.
I would try the first two before I took it to a machine shop. But I have the LH drills and easy outs.
Be sure to exercise good judgment so that you don't make things worse.

That’s a lot of loctite?

I’m not sure what’s funnier, that or suggesting this guy tig weld a nut on some fuck up threads (good luck!) like this guy has a tig when it’s to this point.

All he needs to do is monkey that screw head off one way or another so he can grab the remaining stud with vise grips once the rail is off and it will come right the fuck out.

 

[johnnyvw]

Looks like those screws have a taper under the head. If so, most likely you don't need (or want) to tighten those as much as a regular headed screw. If you are replacing them with the same screws, I'm assuming that's what the manufacturer of the rail supplied and I would double check with them on the recommended torque value. We had a lot of them on the Swiss made machines I used to work on, and they are a PIA to get out sometimes, especially if Mongo put a wrench to them

 

[ma smith]

The first thing you need to do is figure out why you stripped the screw.

 

[Terry Cross]

Get a new condition Torx bit of whatever size that is.
Grind the tip of it slightly to take the taper/chamfer off of the leading edges.

Install it into a tool like this: https://www.grainger.com/product/60...VBHJ_AB2PCDmBEAQYASABEgLw1fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

If you have access to a soldering gun, soldering iron or woodburning tool, turn the tool on the highest heat and touch the tip to the head of your stripped out base screw for a couple of minutes. If there is any thread locker on the threads, this will soften it.

Remove the heat source from the screw head and quickly engage your new Torx bit while the screw is still hot and give the impact driver a few good smacks. The sharpened drive bit should bite what is left of your drive recess and hopefully get it broken loose.

I have done the same thing using a ground tip on a standard T15 driver and smacking the top of it with a small mallet, then turning counterclockwise while putting a good bit of down force on the tool to retain the bite between the drive head and fastener.

If this fails, THEN you could try to drill it out.

 

[RTTY]

Hello,
the rail was mounted from the factory like optional.
It is possible that was used some type of thread locker, but I don't know what...

I would to dismount the rail because I've an idea that the rail are bended...
At 100m the windage for zeroing are about 23MOA...
So if the rail (iron) broken are no worry for me.

I tink that the screw are #6-48, the body is 0.134" and the head is 0.194" on diameter.

Thank for all the answers.

 

[strikeeagle1]

For gunsmith size fasteners I have found the Grab-It brand the best.
Just one example.
Finally, replace hex head fasteners with torx!

 

[Mbaysinger89]

For fucks sake, this isnt brain sergary, git da hed of. Taik of rale, get skrew owt.

Or learn english. Its a tiny little screw inside an action meant to withstand tens of thousands of psi. Cutting a head off a screw isnt going to hurt anything as long as you aren't gorilla fisted.

 

[Edsel]

For fucks sake, this isnt brain sergary, git da hed of. Taik of rale, get skrew owt.

Or learn english.

Well, will you look at that.

Another one of those.

A big assumption, yes - but I suppose this IS America.

Estrattore Di Viti, [22 Pcs] Diyife Estrattore di viti Jellas, Set Di Estrattori Di Bulloni Danneggiati Dispositivo Di Rimozione Bullone Rotto In Acciaio H.S.S per Danneggiati/Spellati https://amzn.eu/d/6QSENmU

@RTTY

Ciao!

While I cannot independently confirm the nationality of the trash above, let me extend apologies on behalf of the rest of us - and express admiration for your command over what ostensibly is a second language to yourself.

 

[ma smith]

OP non english speaker, its in his profile. Don't be a jack ass about it.

carry on

 

[Edsel]

I was about to suggest - if the Picatinny rail is aluminum / cheap / replaceable - you can go to town (figure of speech: excercise no restraints) as far as drilling away the screw heads are concerned, lift the damaged rail away, and use pliers to twist the stubs that remain of the screws.