Stripped rail screws how to unscrew?
- Thread starter RTTY
- Start date
Yeah, mo better for gunsmithing but sadly the OP says the torx head is muerto…finite’….KO’d.
Bello. My mother's family is from Rocco PiaCiao vivo in Abruzzo.
Yes, I looked one one on eBay.
Good luck with your screw issue.
Hello, yesterday I've removed the rail.
I removed the rail because for zeroing at 100m whe need 23MOA!
I hope that the windage traveling are caused for a bad rail.
I made a simple test for check the misalineement.
First with a square rigido alluminium bar placed on the left and on the rigth of the rail.
When I place the bar right side of the rail the bar come out of the barrel profile.
Secondo test are for receiver holes paralelism with the barrel.
Some photos for you.
I removed the rail because for zeroing at 100m whe need 23MOA!
I hope that the windage traveling are caused for a bad rail.
I made a simple test for check the misalineement.
First with a square rigido alluminium bar placed on the left and on the rigth of the rail.
When I place the bar right side of the rail the bar come out of the barrel profile.
Secondo test are for receiver holes paralelism with the barrel.
Some photos for you.
Attachments
Bravo 
Le foto possono essere ingannevoli, ma credo di poter vedere la differenza nei fori delle rotaie
Is this a Sabatti rifle?
Le foto possono essere ingannevoli, ma credo di poter vedere la differenza nei fori delle rotaie
Is this a Sabatti rifle?
Hi everyone, perhaps I have some news on what could be the cause of the excessive adjustment of MOA in windage when zeroing the scope at 100m (approximately 23MOA).
A friend suggested I do some research online about Picatinny rail bedding.
At first I didn't give it any thought, I was convinced that the black sheep was the Picatinny rail.
But then, seeing how many really problematic cases there were in the forums and on YouTube of tracks that didn't adhere perfectly to the shares, I also did the test.
I laid the track down and tightened the front rail screws.
At the rear, between the rail and the action, there is a gap of approximately 0.2mm(0.0078").
At this point I got myself an epoxy adhesive for metals, the first one I found, and tried to do the bedding on the back part of the track.
Even though it was a random test, I obtained an excellent result which can be seen in the almost perfect centering of the scope with respect to the barrel of the rifle.
Obviously to be checked at the shooting range...
Reasoning, I came to the conclusion that by using a one-piece base instead of rings, it is more subject to the torsion of the Picatinny rail and this movement subsequently affects the scope...
Since I don't trust the current Picatinny rail, I ordered a Contessa Picatinny rail, which is certainly superior quality.
I purchased some Wera Torx bits and JB Weld epoxy metal glue.
If necessary I will also do the bedding on the Contessa rail.
Ciao
A friend suggested I do some research online about Picatinny rail bedding.
At first I didn't give it any thought, I was convinced that the black sheep was the Picatinny rail.
But then, seeing how many really problematic cases there were in the forums and on YouTube of tracks that didn't adhere perfectly to the shares, I also did the test.
I laid the track down and tightened the front rail screws.
At the rear, between the rail and the action, there is a gap of approximately 0.2mm(0.0078").
At this point I got myself an epoxy adhesive for metals, the first one I found, and tried to do the bedding on the back part of the track.
Even though it was a random test, I obtained an excellent result which can be seen in the almost perfect centering of the scope with respect to the barrel of the rifle.
Obviously to be checked at the shooting range...
Reasoning, I came to the conclusion that by using a one-piece base instead of rings, it is more subject to the torsion of the Picatinny rail and this movement subsequently affects the scope...
Since I don't trust the current Picatinny rail, I ordered a Contessa Picatinny rail, which is certainly superior quality.
I purchased some Wera Torx bits and JB Weld epoxy metal glue.
If necessary I will also do the bedding on the Contessa rail.
Ciao
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