Stripping paint

Trigger Monkey

Ronin
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Apr 29, 2005
    4,306
    5,152
    Winchester Virginia
    Recently I stripped an AR upper and lower back down to the black anodized finish after I got tired of the beat up Duracoat finish I'd sprayed on years ago. I know Duracoat isn't as popular as it once was but I thought I'd talk about the product I used to strip the receivers down, Klean Strip Premium Stripper.

    First of all a safety brief, don't fuck around with this stuff, wear heavy duty gloves, not just nitrile ones, and safety glasses when you're using it. It burns when it gets on the skin and you definitely don't want it in your eyes. I primarily use this when I really want to get down to the base material and mostly when that base material is steel or aluminum, in my experience it's not safe for plastic but according to the label it's safe for wood.

    I was curious how this would stack up against Citristrip Gel and non-chlorinated brake cleaner, which I also have on hand so I taped off sections of a take off barrel that had been Duracoated and hit sections of the barrel with the Citristrip, Klean Strip, and brake cleaner.

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    The long and short of it is Klean Strip will make quick work of a barreled action and after less than an hour with the Klean Strip I could strip the Duracoat off with a wood craft stick. Citristrip Gel wasn't getting it done, if I scrubbed really hard I with a scotchbrite pad I could get a little bit of it off but it was a lot of effort.

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    The brake cleaner by itself didn't do much but spraying some onto a scotchbrite pad and scrubbing a section of the barrel got me down to bare metal but it was a lot of effort; I wouldn't want to do a whole barrel that way.

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    I left the Citristrip on for about four hours to see if maybe it just took longer on the Duracoat. Nope, about the only thing it did really was make the finish a shade lighter.

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    Citristrip does well when I want to strip some rattle can paint off of plastic pieces or other furniture that I want to be more careful with, it's the kinder, gentler paint stripper. For stripping anything short of Cerakote off a barreled action or chassis though Klean Strip is going to be my go to.
     

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    Wonder how similar Duracoat is to Brownell's Alumahyde. I know they're both epoxy but does Duracoat have acetone as a carrier like Alumahyde? If Duracoat had acetone as the carrier/activator then you can use acetone to strip it off.
    I remove Alumahyde by submerging the painted part in a tub of acetone. Once the paint is thoroughly wet with the acetone, it should come right off with just a light scrub using an a "M16" brush.
    Non-chlorinated brake cleaner doesn't do much to cured Alumahyde (or, probably, to Duracoat) so I'm thinking that was your scrubbing that took the paint off.
     
    I think duracoats thinner is Acetone.

    I dont buy thier thinner, I just use acetone which smells/feels the same, but when I asked they wouldn't answer.


    I always soda/glass beads blast it off when I need it removed. After about a month it hard cures against most solvent but ive never tried acetone on a (non paint messed up ) gun after a month. I have the next day or two and it didn't work but I didn't soak it either.
     
    I think duracoats thinner is Acetone.

    I dont buy thier thinner, I just use acetone which smells/feels the same, but when I asked they wouldn't answer.


    I always soda/glass beads blast it off when I need it removed. After about a month it hard cures against most solvent but ive never tried acetone on a (non paint messed up ) gun after a month. I have the next day or two and it didn't work but I didn't soak it either.
    Yeah, if you just spray acetone on, it won't do a whole lot unless it gets under an edge where adhesion isn't good. Even then, it'll just remove a flake of the loose paint. Submerge the whole part though, and it'll loosen right up.
    I've been able to strip years-old Alumahyde by doing this.
     
    Wonder how similar Duracoat is to Brownell's Alumahyde. I know they're both epoxy but does Duracoat have acetone as a carrier like Alumahyde? If Duracoat had acetone as the carrier/activator then you can use acetone to strip it off.
    I remove Alumahyde by submerging the painted part in a tub of acetone. Once the paint is thoroughly wet with the acetone, it should come right off with just a light scrub using an a "M16" brush.
    Non-chlorinated brake cleaner doesn't do much to cured Alumahyde (or, probably, to Duracoat) so I'm thinking that was your scrubbing that took the paint off.
    I don't know how similar they are, I've only used a Alumahyde a couple times and was never impressed by it but I imagine that the Klean Strip would make quick work of it too without the need for submerging parts.

    For science I hit the barrel with just the scrotchbrite pad by itself and it just scuffed the surface without really removing anything but combined with the brake cleaner it started to remove some but the progress was slow as noted before. I also tried the same process with Klean Strip acetone and that just yielded a pretty clean scuffed up Duracoat finish. I don't know what else is in the brake cleaner but it's marginally effective compared to straight up acetone. That being said, I'm not planning to submerge the barrel in acetone though to see how long that might take when the spray on Klean Strip can take it right off.
     
    That being said, I'm not planning to submerge the barrel in acetone though to see how long that might take when the spray on Klean Strip can take it right off.
    Yeah, don't know how close Duracoat is to Alumahyde so def. would try some small part first. I never had to soak, just get the part under the surface so it was fully wet. As soon as you lifted the part out of the acetone and the solvent evaporated out, the paint would harden again and would only scrub off with effort.
     
    ive never stripped duracoat......but just regular krylon comes right off with a Soda blaster...you can grab them at harbor freight really cheap, and it doesnt harm plastics or anodizing.

    plus no caustic chemicals is a plus too.

    Looks like the cheapest one is 130 bucks but I like this idea. Have you used it on something with a lot of layers of paint?
     
    I used a $24 aerosol aircraft stripper to remove Duracoat from a BA that had softened after ~15 years. It worked pretty well, but it took 2 applications & about 30 minutes of wiping. Also, methylene chloride is terrible for you & eats through latex/nitrile gloves.

    I should have just been paid someone $50 to blast the barreled action, but I am dumb